PDA

View Full Version : Fuel Door Installation


Rescue X
01-08-2007, 03:14 PM
I installed a new black fuel door on my JK...here's the finished product...

http://my.project-jk.com/data/530/medium/P10100032.JPG

The instructions were terrible...but, after looking at it...it's pretty straight forward...the only screws you will install are the "chrome" ones that attach the door to the housing.

First you need to take the gas cap and tail light assembly off then pry the rubber seal on the filler neck to unseat it. Then reach into the area where the tail light assembly was and push in the plastic clips on housing. The pic shows the plastic clips...

http://my.project-jk.com/data/530/medium/P1010008.JPG

Another picture of it out of the Jeep...


http://my.project-jk.com/data/530/medium/P1010012.JPG

There is a clip that is located where you can't reach it, but if you get the other 2 pushed in you can "work" the other one loose.

Once you get it removed you will need to take the cap and the rubber seal off the old housing and install them into the new housing. Then line up the filler neck with the new housing and push it on until the clips catch. Screw the gas cap back on.

The door attaches with 4 small screws...be very careful not to overtighten these screws as the head will break off very easy.

http://my.project-jk.com/data/530/medium/P1010004.JPG

I'm no auto mechanic so...no criticism of my terminology...just a guy that loves Jeeps...

I posted this because there were a lot of people asking about the fuel door installation...hope it helps...

ericdewayne
01-08-2007, 03:26 PM
The door attaches with 4 small screws...be very careful not to overtighten these screws as the head will break off very easy.

:rotflmao1: Im guessing you had to find this out for yourself?? Thanks for the write up btw. It looks really good. Clear easy steps and great pics!

Rescue X
01-08-2007, 03:43 PM
:rotflmao1: Im guessing you had to find this out for yourself?? Thanks for the write up btw. It looks really good. Clear easy steps and great pics!

I almost broke one off...I was suprised at how cheap the screws were...I am sure MOPAR will want an arm and leg for a replacement though...

HUMONGO
01-08-2007, 04:18 PM
What did the door cost? Did you get it directly from Mopar, the stealership or a third party vendor?

Rescue X
01-08-2007, 04:42 PM
What did the door cost? Did you get it directly from Mopar, the stealership or a third party vendor?

I went to a third party and ordered them on line...I paid $89.10...MOPAR wants $99...

I am not sure if I can post the vendor because they are not sponsors of this forum...but anyone that carries MOPAR should have this door.

tolh13
01-08-2007, 05:42 PM
rescue x is right about the instructions just awful.but the install is more frustrating then hard.is post is right on and should really help you to install one.the chrome bolt do have a torque setting(the one thing thats readable on the instructions)I think i will buy some black ones and can the chrome.

p.s e-bay $72.00 4 door black mopar part #82210609

Ge99ne
01-09-2007, 07:36 AM
Nice write up. Looks quite a bit nicer than stock.
I just have a hard time coughing up that kind of money for a small gas door.
Seems like alot of money for what it is.
Look what else you can get for 70.00

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q21/ge99ne/sony1.jpg

which also comes with
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q21/ge99ne/sony2.jpg

I'm sure supply & demand factor in here, but one of these things isconsiderably more complex than the other & yet still costs less.

I think it was Ron White who pointed out there are 300 dollar sunglasses. $300 bucks gets you a 25" stereo television. How good can the glasses really be?:thinking:

arjflyr
01-09-2007, 07:39 AM
Thanks for the write up. My fuel door is on the UPS truck and should be here this afternoon. How long did it take you to install it? Tomorrow is my day to work on the Jeep. I also have the door sills, slush floor mats, tail lamp guards, and the Trail Guide GPS coming.

HappyCurmudgeon
01-09-2007, 07:49 AM
I put one on mine, it took maybe 1/2 hour total. Most of which was trying to contort my hand to get it in there to release those plastic snaps, the writeup is correct, there is one ya just can't reach (I couldnt anyhow).

I wanted it to keep the mud & ice out of that recessed hole.

Last job i drove one of those stubid chevy cube vans to job sites, it had the same type of fuel filler hole, recessed into the side like that & it was always plugged with mud. or ice. or icy mud. I would bet more than just a little ended up in the tank.

zero
01-09-2007, 09:53 AM
Thanks for the write up and the pics.

Mine should be here on Thursday (along with the tail lamp guards). My sill protectors still need to ship :sad:

The Jeep just looks more 'finished' with the fuel door IMHO.

Oh, I am getting the black one as well.

Rubidon
01-11-2007, 09:44 AM
Thanx. You posted just in time.........got my door yesterday and you are correct the instructions are for $hit.

Nefarious
01-15-2007, 08:05 AM
That's a great looking addition! I'll add it to my must have list.

tjconnaway
01-16-2007, 04:51 PM
Thank you for the pictures and the information. You are right the instructions are worthless.

nextreme
01-20-2007, 12:22 PM
I almost broke one off...I was suprised at how cheap the screws were...I am sure MOPAR will want an arm and leg for a replacement though...

Well I did break one so now I have to try and find a replacement. Anyone else broken one?

clubber
01-20-2007, 05:43 PM
I'm gonna throw the instructions out and pull up this thread when I get my fuel door. Good write up and pics. :thinking: Now if I can only find a thread as good as that on how to install the slush mats i'll be ok...:rollingeyes:

John L
02-17-2007, 06:06 PM
Well I did break one so now I have to try and find a replacement. Anyone else broken one?

I got my black door installed today, but not before I made a trip to the hardware store.

The screws are not "chrome", they are polished aluminum with a low profile head, 5mm x .8mm pitch.

I found stainless replacements, but not with a short head, and I couldn't find them as short as the stock screws, but they were easy to grind to length.

The top and bottom static screws also have aluminum nuts which got replaced with stainless counterparts as well. What were they thinking?:naw:

I for one do not like the look of silver screws on the black door, my JK is black with the exception of the wheels. I did however find this site http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=218 that carries black, gold and red aluminum metric socket head cap screws in 5mm x .8. I'll be ordering some black ones soon and will have lots of extras (44 to be exact), so if anyone is interested in black replacements let me know. I'll even cut them to the correct length for ya:yup:

John L

tolh13
02-17-2007, 07:09 PM
I got my black door installed today, but not before I made a trip to the hardware store.

The screws are not "chrome", they are polished aluminum with a low profile head, 5mm x .8mm pitch.

I found stainless replacements, but not with a short head, and I couldn't find them as short as the stock screws, but they were easy to grind to length.

The top and bottom static screws also have aluminum nuts which got replaced with stainless counterparts as well. What were they thinking?:naw:

I for one do not like the look of silver screws on the black door, my JK is black with the exception of the wheels. I did however find this site http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=218 that carries black, gold and red aluminum metric socket head cap screws in 5mm x .8. I'll be ordering some black ones soon and will have lots of extras (44 to be exact), so if anyone is interested in black replacements let me know. I'll even cut them to the correct length for ya:yup:

John L

Count me in on that.let me know how $$$ for my share.
thanks mark

John L
02-17-2007, 08:06 PM
Count me in on that.let me know how $$$ for my share.
thanks mark

OK, just ordered the black replacement screws, when I get them in hand I'll post it here. Total including shipping was 18.55, divided by 50 pcs. is .37 each. A full set of 6 will be a whopping 2.22 plus postage (a stamp). I'd like to keep an extra set for myself, so I'll have 6 full sets for sale.
tolh13 (Mark) is in for one set, so 5 are left.

Please keep in mind the head will probably not set near flush with the outer surface of the door frame like the stock screws do (they stick up past flush about .060), and there is no fix for this other than grinding the head off, leaving the same appearance as the stock screws (silver), or making the counterbore the screw sets in deeper, easy if you have access to a machine shop, next to impossible if you don't.

If they are taller than stock, it won't be by more than about .050. Stock head height is .140, standard head height for the cap screw is about .195.

Also keep in mind if you find replacement black oxide screws, they will rust within a few days. Trust me on this, been there and made that mistake already!!

Motocane
02-18-2007, 06:03 AM
I'll take a set. Let me know how much to send and where you want it sent.

John L
02-18-2007, 10:07 AM
I'll take a set. Let me know how much to send and where you want it sent.

OK, one set for you. I'll let everyone know the exact details once I have them.

4 sets left.

/jl

John L
02-22-2007, 03:50 PM
I received the screws today and got a set put on the JK, I gotta say it looks better than I thought. Here, let me do this before anyone else...
:worthless:
I'll post up a pic tomorrow. I will PM the folks who put in early dibs on the first two sets, please PM me if you want a set. They will be ground to the correct length. Only four sets left, first come first serve :D

RedRockJK
02-22-2007, 11:39 PM
Sent you a PM John, I'll take a set. Thanks!

John L
02-23-2007, 02:17 AM
Sent you a PM John, I'll take a set. Thanks!

Thanks RedRock JK, just sent you back a PM, only three sets left now.
Be the first on your block to sport these cool black fuel door screws:yup:

John L
02-23-2007, 07:04 AM
OK, as promised, pics of the door screws. Don't mind the dirty jeep:yup:

http://my.project-jk.com/data/503/door01.jpg

http://my.project-jk.com/data/503/door02.jpg

Trying to show how much above flush the screws are, sorry it's not in focus....
http://my.project-jk.com/data/503/door03.jpg

dhoffroad
02-23-2007, 07:27 AM
first off thanks for this thread it helped allot....

as for the black screws Rustolium "semi flat black" worked just fine for me painted them before I put them in then touched up the inside of the screw (once tightend) with a small brush....

RedRockJK
02-23-2007, 02:15 PM
Nice pics, I sent you a payment a while ago. Thanks again!

John L
02-23-2007, 03:07 PM
Nice pics, I sent you a payment a while ago. Thanks again!


Thanks RedRockJK, your screws will be on their way first thing in the morning.

lionhart
02-24-2007, 09:07 AM
I'll take TWO set's if you have them. I sent you a PM.

Thanks!

John L
02-24-2007, 09:41 AM
I'll take TWO set's if you have them. I sent you a PM.

Thanks!

Gotcha covered, two sets for you.

Only one set left, who wants it?

lionhart
02-24-2007, 10:00 AM
Thanks John! PayPal sent. :D

paulp575
02-24-2007, 10:22 AM
I went to a third party and ordered them on line...I paid $89.10...MOPAR wants $99...

Rampage sells "Locking Billet Fuel Doors", but the one catalog I have that shows them says up to 06. I'm sure they will have one for the Jks soon.

tolh13
02-28-2007, 12:25 PM
I got my black door installed today, but not before I made a trip to the hardware store.

The screws are not "chrome", they are polished aluminum with a low profile head, 5mm x .8mm pitch.

I found stainless replacements, but not with a short head, and I couldn't find them as short as the stock screws, but they were easy to grind to length.

The top and bottom static screws also have aluminum nuts which got replaced with stainless counterparts as well. What were they thinking?:naw:

I for one do not like the look of silver screws on the black door, my JK is black with the exception of the wheels. I did however find this site http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=218 that carries black, gold and red aluminum metric socket head cap screws in 5mm x .8. I'll be ordering some black ones soon and will have lots of extras (44 to be exact), so if anyone is interested in black replacements let me know. I'll even cut them to the correct length for ya:yup:

John L

Thanks for all the leg work John L.just put them on today looks great.

John L
02-28-2007, 03:35 PM
Thanks for all the leg work John L.just put them on today looks great.


Wow, that was quick! Glad you like them! Post a pic and lets see them:yup:

RedRockJK
02-28-2007, 07:49 PM
Got my screws today too, I'll be installing mine in the AM.

mlbplayer86
03-01-2007, 01:17 AM
Have a set left? Ill take them :D

John L
03-01-2007, 02:11 AM
Have a set left? Ill take them :D

OK, you got the last set, just sent you a PM.

I want to thank everyone for helping absorb the cost of the screws.

tolh13
03-01-2007, 02:33 PM
here what it looks like.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/th_jkjeep3003.jpg (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/jkjeep3003.jpg)
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/th_jkjeep3002.jpg (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/jkjeep3002.jpg)
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/th_jkjeep3001.jpg (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w202/tolh13/jkjeep3001.jpg)

RedRockJK
03-01-2007, 05:50 PM
Here's mine with the custom screws. Thanks again John!

http://ayresweb.com/RedRockJK/fuel_door/fuel_door_1_IMG_4118.jpg

http://ayresweb.com/RedRockJK/fuel_door/fuel_door_2_IMG_4116.jpg

John L
03-01-2007, 06:49 PM
Those look great guys!! Thanks for the pics!:yup:

twstokes
03-03-2007, 12:57 PM
Just in case someone was wondering what the fuel door and silver screws look like on a Bright Silver JK:

http://www.tannerstokes.com/photos/d/1801-2/DSCF3342.JPG

http://www.tannerstokes.com/photos/d/1798-2/DSCF3341.JPG

jocrazy0
03-03-2007, 02:08 PM
A couple of things to go along with the installation instructions:

1) It is easier to poke the gasket around the filler next through (down) rather than trying to pry it up (away) from the back of the old plastic cup.

2) There are two different screws holding the tail lens assempbly to the body. The thicker two screws go on the OUTSIDE of the body, the two thinner ones go on the inside. Shows you how much attention I paid when taking them out.:embarrased:

3) Use a long screwdriver to poke the two plastic latches. If you are half blind like I am, use a strong light to see them. It really is not that difficult. As said before, once you get the two you can see, twist and wiggle the plastic cup and the third one will release.

4) I felt better stuffing a small rag into the open filler neck when removing the old assembly/poking the gasket out of the cup. YMMV

Thanks to all who have gone before. Even with almost cross threading one screw (there is always one), it still only took 20 minutes or so. And I think it makes a large improvement to the appearance. I will get some flat black later and paint the screws.

kamccarthy
03-04-2007, 05:40 PM
I have an '07 two door and got the black Mopar fuel door. The only problem that I found was that the Mopar instructions (1 side of 1 paper) were incredibly vague. The install itself went smooth, but the access behind the fender is tight. Also, to anyone attempting this install: BE CARFULL PUSHING THE RETAINER CLIPS ON THE REAR OF THE NEW HOUSING, THE SHEET METAL ON THE BODY IS EXTREMELY THIN! THERE IS NO REINFORCEMENT FLANGE. IF YOU PRESS TOO HARD, YOU WILL BEND THE BODY METAL BEFORE YOU REALIZE IT!

-KEITH

John L
03-05-2007, 05:32 PM
Just in case someone was wondering what the fuel door and silver screws look like on a Bright Silver JK:

http://www.tannerstokes.com/photos/d/1801-2/DSCF3342.JPG

http://www.tannerstokes.com/photos/d/1798-2/DSCF3341.JPG

I actually like the stock screws with the
Bright Silver...looks nice!!

HappyCurmudgeon
03-06-2007, 06:07 AM
Me too!

http://my.project-jk.com/data/522/JKforum_upload_-_0005.JPG

DBB888
03-08-2007, 04:10 PM
You aren't kidding about the thin metal. Anyway Thanks Rescue X for the write up and where to get it. I too bought new Screws.

they are the same size length but the head is 1mm thicker. They are Stainless Steel and color is gunmetal. I have 7 sets left over from a Package of 50.

if anyone wants a set let me know me $2.50 shipped
I dont need anymore.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/FuelDoor1.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/FuelDoor2.jpg
Mike

Rubidon
03-08-2007, 04:41 PM
You aren't kidding about the thin metal. Anyway Thanks Rescue X for the write up and where to get it. I too bought new Screws.

they are the same size length but the head is 1mm thicker. They are Stainless Steel and color is gunmetal. I have 7 sets left over from a Package of 50.

if anyone wants a set let me know me $2.50 shipped
I dont need anymore.

Mike

I'll take a set. I tried to send you an email and it said you can not receive pm's.
Thanx Don M.

DBB888
03-08-2007, 05:27 PM
Sorry PM is on again

Email- dbb888@optonline.net

Thats 1

incubus2432
03-14-2007, 03:25 PM
One other note on a possible install issue. On the door I received the locating pin that keeps the backing plate from rotating on the 1/4 panel was a tad too big for the hole and wouldn't push in. By the time I found this out I probably would have damaged something forcing the backing plate off so I just drilled out the locating pin and fashioned another one. Now it sits flush and looks great.

Just check the pin for molding flash or "lumps" before installing and shave it down. I'd get a pic to show what I'm talking about but it's too late since it's in.

markp_satx
03-19-2007, 05:17 AM
Great pictures on the fuel door installation. I just put mine on this weekend and you are right the directions are terrible. I followed the basic steps that were outlined in the pictures. I had room to work so I didn't actually unplug the light assembly as directed.

The fit and finish is great. Creates a nice smooth line.

fshgrind
04-03-2007, 05:53 AM
Well I did what John L did. I bought 50 black bolts for the fuel door and need to get rid of the rest. I have 5 sets to get rid of. $3.00

superboo
04-03-2007, 09:22 AM
anyone got the chrome door installed on an otherwise stock-looking unlimited (rescue green would be even better)? i'd like to take a look before i buy it.

burg54
04-04-2007, 07:21 PM
I put mine on today...easy intstall and looks pretty sharp...the contrast with the green looks nice!!

superboo
04-04-2007, 09:43 PM
no one with the chrome door?

billycj7
04-07-2007, 10:46 AM
fshgrind----- Sent u a pm about those bolts.

Swampfire
04-08-2007, 08:09 AM
fshgrind----- Sent u a pm about those bolts.

I'm in too.

fshgrind
04-10-2007, 05:06 PM
3 sets left

johnrobv
04-14-2007, 02:52 PM
3 sets left

I'll take a set. Sending you pm also.

wolverine
04-14-2007, 10:48 PM
I'll take a set. Sending you pm also.

seadoo3
05-05-2007, 07:10 PM
I ordered the Black Gas Cap Door from Mopar. Picked it up when it came in. As quoted here the instructions and pictures were terrible from Mopar. But the forum here is great especially the pictures. Installed in about 30 minutes. Looks and works great. Will probably update the mounting screws to black. Even better then.

llik1tohs1
05-06-2007, 06:08 PM
put mine on today. it doesn't sit flush on the top. there is a small gap i am worried about water and dirt getting in there. anyone else have this problem or any suggestions how to get perfect?

Rescue X
05-07-2007, 09:23 PM
put mine on today. it doesn't sit flush on the top. there is a small gap i am worried about water and dirt getting in there. anyone else have this problem or any suggestions how to get perfect?

You might try to "bump" it at the top...if that doesn't work try to twist it and bump it at the same time...it should fit flat.

schwarzjp
05-28-2007, 10:21 PM
put mine on today. it doesn't sit flush on the top. there is a small gap i am worried about water and dirt getting in there. anyone else have this problem or any suggestions how to get perfect?

Mine doesn't sit flush on the top...small gap also. I tried bumping it in...bumping and twisting...still the same. Any other suggestions?

cybersniper
05-29-2007, 05:46 PM
They import them into Spain without fuel doors.
I need the door and those screws you sell. I have not been able to see them as the pics did not dowload.
Can you PM some pics?
Thanks
Eduardo

Rescue X
05-29-2007, 07:35 PM
They import them into Spain without fuel doors.
I need the door and those screws you sell. I have not been able to see them as the pics did not dowload.
Can you PM some pics?
Thanks
Eduardo

I am not sure why the pics aren't showing up for you...but, try this link out...

http://my.project-jk.com/showgallery.php?cat=530

As for the screws, the door comes with everything you need. The only reason to change out the screws is if you want them black or stainless steele vs. polished aluminum. You might try to PM a couple people within this thread to find out where they got them.

Rescue X
05-29-2007, 07:36 PM
Mine doesn't sit flush on the top...small gap also. I tried bumping it in...bumping and twisting...still the same. Any other suggestions?

I'm sorry to hear that "bumping/twisting" didn't work...

The only other suggestion I have is to take it off and reinstall...

Sorry...

Dubya
06-15-2007, 01:07 PM
Just finished with mine. Takes about 20-30 min. Thanks for the write up. The enclosed instructions are indeed a joke. GOt mine for $74.50. Still a little steep, but man, its cool and says Jeep on it!:D

Jeep JK
06-17-2007, 12:41 PM
Great post. I put a black OEM fuel door on my black JK but I was lucky enough to have read this post first... saved a lot of swearing. Thanks!:D

southbaydog
09-08-2007, 07:19 PM
Newbie here sorry to go dumpster diving but I just got hip to the new fuel door (well maybe not so new, but new to me), looks like a sick upgrade really diggin' it!
Just wondering how hard or is there a little trick to getting the filler neck gastet off, no auto mechanic here either just another guy that really digs JK's.
And if anyone on here has an extra set of those gun metal screws that could hook me up that would be greatly appreciated!
Looks like a really cool message board.
Here's a pic of my JK, it has a 4" inch Rancho Lift w/ MT 325/60R 18's....
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/blaqbelt/100_4366.jpg

07 RBY
09-09-2007, 08:22 PM
It's been several months since this thread first came out. Who has the best price right now?

07 RBY
09-12-2007, 07:25 PM
I ordered mine today in black.

James76
09-13-2007, 04:37 PM
bid on mine monday and recieved it today...i almost fainted when i realized it was for a 4 door but it fit perfectly in my 2 door! :D Paid $75 :eek2:
http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/9131/gasdoorar1.jpg

uofawildcats
09-16-2007, 07:16 PM
I'd be interested in a set of replacement black screws if anybody has any left or can indicate where to get them.

cjsdad
09-17-2007, 05:43 PM
I just did mine though the dealer when I ordered it. about $175 installed.

3370

CarFanatic
10-10-2007, 08:00 AM
wheres best place to order these?

HappyCurmudgeon
10-10-2007, 08:20 AM
I thought the chrome doors where around $125?

CarFanatic
10-10-2007, 09:51 AM
Just ordered one off ebay! It's for a 4 door so I'm hoping it fits my 2 door.

Anyone have the black screws left?

James76
10-10-2007, 12:13 PM
:yup: 4 door WILL fit a 2 door...not sure if a 2 door fits a 4 door or why they have 2 part numbers :thinking:

SabrToothSqrl
10-10-2007, 12:19 PM
why would they be different?

the more parts you can keep the same the lower production costs, the more profit :)

James76
10-10-2007, 12:22 PM
it does have different part numbers tho and each is stamped 2 door or 4 door :thinking:

CarFanatic
10-10-2007, 12:46 PM
ya, I would imagine there the same.. what could the difference be??

James76
10-10-2007, 01:20 PM
:embarrased: guess i have hurt my resale value by having a 4 door cap on a 2 door :bleh:

Tommy3rd
10-10-2007, 05:43 PM
First you need to take the gas cap and tail light assembly off then pry the rubber seal on the filler neck to unseat it.

after reading that, i decided to order the black appearance group. i wanted side steps anyway, so i guess the tail light guards are a bonus.:D

James76
10-10-2007, 05:58 PM
:cool: i will take em if you dont want em :D (tail light covers)

Tommy3rd
10-10-2007, 06:22 PM
i'll think about it... depends on how much i will like them.

James76
10-11-2007, 03:29 PM
:bleh: Unless you can take a kidney instead of cash i cant afford them anyways :rotflmao1:

CarFanatic
10-18-2007, 05:12 PM
ok Just installed mine on my 08. Mine is a two door but I bought the 4 door one off ebay. The only think I noticed different was there is a plastic point that sticks out thats supposed to go in a hole on the body to jeep the door from spinning or moving. On mine its at 12 oclock. Well on the new one its at 9 0clock. So I had to cut that off. Other then that it fits great. I think I might put a dab of black silicone aroung the ring to keep it still, and help since it doesn't have the black point anymmore.

JasperK
10-20-2007, 11:22 AM
Didn't hear of anyone having any more of the black replacement screws for the fuel door available. I ordered the same screws mentioned prior in this thread. They are black aluminum M5 x .8 x 12mm. They will have to be shortened to 6mm to be usable..couldn't find any shorter to match the "stock" screws. In any case, I have six sets available. I do not have access to accept Paypal so we will have to make other arrangements for reimbursement of costs, around $2.65. PM me if you want a set.

kcpanther
01-28-2008, 04:02 PM
dumb question but how do you get the tail light off just wondering before i try to take it off and screw it up

James76
01-28-2008, 04:25 PM
2 inside screws i believe er 2 outside :thinking: cant remember...take em all out and it just pops off. :yup:

kcpanther
01-28-2008, 04:31 PM
Thanks james all i need now is my fuel door to get here

James76
01-28-2008, 04:35 PM
:yup: Definately worth the hassle in the end. just pay attention to the notes above about bending the sheet metal :eek2:

RED9BULL
03-17-2008, 02:45 PM
Hey I installed mine today, took less than ten minutes thanks to your write up!!! Great work!

Dusty Bill
04-20-2008, 05:05 AM
Hi,

Thanks for the write up, Mopar failed to even achieve their usual low standards with the instructions for this.

The installation went well but there are a few other things that worked for me that people doing this might find useful:

You need a narrow flat screwdriver to release the catch and unplug the back light from the back light cable loom and a small pointed object like a very small Phillips screwdriver to release the light blue strap that holds the loom plug to the backlight. Both go back easily when you are finished.

To remove the black plastic cone, I used a long flat blade screwdriver as described above to push back the inner two catches but to keep it from popping back in again, I wedged in folds of cardboard ripped from the Mopar box, in the outside gap. You need to do this in order to simultaneously pry the rubber collar past the base of the plastic cone, while removing the cone outwards.

I found that using three flat blade screwdrivers, putting the three of them side by side at three o’clock, keeping one central and working the other upwards and downwards, the outer rubber collar eventually popped past the base of the cone.

I then removed the rubber collar from the central metal fuel filler pipe and fitted to the new plastic cone, being careful to keep the ring the same way around on the new cone.

You really need to carefully look at how the new plastic cone goes onto the jeep. As the guys said above, you only have thin metal and you really need to clip the cone unto the metal carefully and line up the little plastic horn at the top of the new cone with the hole in the metal side.

Once you clip it up and line up the little horn and the hole, it all pops back in easily.

One you carefully screw on the new door, you can stand back and admire the six bright shiny silver hexheads that ruin a perfect fitting and marvel at the Muppet Show that is Mopar.

Bill

iannis
04-30-2008, 12:49 AM
Yesterday I decided to go forward with the installation of the Mopar Fuel Door. I have to agree that the directions that came with the product where crap:mad:

And although the directions I read here helped a lot I would like to add something:

It Took me more than half an hour to remove the factory part from the body. I became so frustrated of that damn thing not badging from its place due to that notorious third anchoring point which is reachable only for some strange out of this planet creature with and index finger of 2 feet or so :crazyeyes: ,to the point I wanted to kick my Jeep,

My advise is to remove the rubber seal while the factory part is actually on the body itself. This gives some air in order to remove it from the body, a bit more easily.

The rest of the process is very well depicted in the write up at the begining of this thread.

And a question to those who have gone through with the actual installation. Does the Fuel Door sits flat on the body panel all round?
Mine seems to leave a small gap on the right side of about 0,08 of an inch where as at the left side its flat on.

http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2522/fueldoorsd0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2522/fueldoorsd0.90793b601b.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=187&i=fueldoorsd0.jpg)



Your Feedback is appreciated.


PS the $hitty chrome bolts are heading towards the bin a soon as I get around of trimming to size the new all black bolts. It seems chrome really hurts my eyes! :bleh:

Dusty Bill
05-05-2008, 03:44 AM
Hi,

Now that I look carefully, there is a narrow gap on the right hand side.

I would not have noticed otherwise.

Yours,

Bill

poppakristof
05-05-2008, 08:30 AM
Yeah I got a small gap on mine also.

JeepJK77
05-20-2008, 06:00 PM
I just installed mine and it is completely jacked. There is a gap on the top (it is on the whole way, when looking at the clip from the outside front you can see it touching the paint) and I had to drill out the holes so the screws would line up. Just bore them out alittle bit, but I freakin' paid $100, c'mon Mopar!

bachus25
06-20-2008, 05:12 PM
If anyone is interested in the black screws i will place the order if i can get enough people in on it.

I dont want to buy them then have noone want them

let me know guys

Gypsy
06-20-2008, 05:42 PM
Please forgive me if this has been asked before (I *did* search) but I was wondering if the fuel door can be installed with the locking gas cap?

Thanks guys!

paulp575
06-20-2008, 05:53 PM
If anyone is interested in the black screws i will place the order if i can get enough people in on it.

I dont want to buy them then have noone want them

let me know guys

I will definitely take 6!!!
Let me know when they are available and the cost (price plus shipping) and I'll reimburse you!

I purchased the MOPAR fuel door that came with 6 silver screws. I haven't installed it yet, but having either black or silver screws will allow me to make a decision once I install it on my silver Rubicon.

Thanks,

Yucca Patrol
06-20-2008, 09:59 PM
I'll take a set of black screws if you order them

aldaman
06-21-2008, 03:48 AM
Please forgive me if this has been asked before (I *did* search) but I was wondering if the fuel door can be installed with the locking gas cap?

Thanks guys!

Yes it can...I am running both...

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/al_12572/IMG_3884.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/al_12572/IMG_3883.jpg

bachus25
06-21-2008, 03:07 PM
Okay. I found the screws and can get them for 50 of them.

Which will provide 8 sets (if my math is correct).

I will take a set so that leaves 7 left (minus 2 that posted interest)

So starting a list 1-8 3 already filled.

let me know by pm so i can keep better track of it.

if we get like 5-6 i will probably go ahead and just order it.

Thanks guys

Gypsy
06-21-2008, 03:54 PM
Awesome! Thanks aldaman!

mrktwatchr
06-21-2008, 05:42 PM
I installed OEM chrome door and instructions were clear as a bell and simple took less than 15 mins to install.

mrktwatchr
06-21-2008, 05:45 PM
Awesome! Thanks aldaman!

if you need screws in Ont .. go to Brafasco they sell every screw imagiable and in every type of metal and strength

texasKA
06-25-2008, 03:26 PM
F this crap. i apid $108 for mine. darn it. and that was ebay!

i couldn't find any black mopar 2-dr ones at the time for $75-80.

oh well.

fastboat
07-14-2008, 05:53 PM
I just picked up a filler door today from the dealer where I bought the Jeep, and because I bought it there, I got a 10% discount. Woohoo! It listed for $101.00. After reading this thread, I decided to look for some sturdier black screws and found them at Grainger. Black, low-profile head and 6mm long. Same exact size as the originals.

hxxp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/guideBrowse.shtml

fasteners/Socket Head Cap Screws/low/fully threaded

Socket Head Cap Screw, Low Head Style, 8.8 Steel, Furnace Black Finish, Hex Socket, Thread Size M5X0.80mm, Drive Size 3mm, Decimal Equivalent 0.197 In, Thread Type Metric, Fully Threaded, Right Hand Thread Direction, Length Under Head 6mm, Head Height 3.50mm, Head Dia 8.5mm, Thread Class 6g, Rockwell Hardness C22-C32, Min Tensile Strength 116,000 PSI, Meets DIN 7984, Package 100

Grainger Item # 6EA53
Price (pk.) $16.29
Package Qty. 100

I ordered them tonight (24 hr service) and they'll be shipped out tomorrow. If you don't have an account, you'll have to order by phone. Last couple times I ordered from them I received the parts in 2 days.

Hopefully you'll find this useful.

cmcginnes
08-07-2008, 10:08 AM
I just picked up a filler door today from the dealer where I bought the Jeep, and because I bought it there, I got a 10% discount. Woohoo! It listed for $101.00. After reading this thread, I decided to look for some sturdier black screws and found them at Grainger. Black, low-profile head and 6mm long. Same exact size as the originals.

hxxp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/guideBrowse.shtml

fasteners/Socket Head Cap Screws/low/fully threaded

Socket Head Cap Screw, Low Head Style, 8.8 Steel, Furnace Black Finish, Hex Socket, Thread Size M5X0.80mm, Drive Size 3mm, Decimal Equivalent 0.197 In, Thread Type Metric, Fully Threaded, Right Hand Thread Direction, Length Under Head 6mm, Head Height 3.50mm, Head Dia 8.5mm, Thread Class 6g, Rockwell Hardness C22-C32, Min Tensile Strength 116,000 PSI, Meets DIN 7984, Package 100

Grainger Item # 6EA53
Price (pk.) $16.29
Package Qty. 100

I ordered them tonight (24 hr service) and they'll be shipped out tomorrow. If you don't have an account, you'll have to order by phone. Last couple times I ordered from them I received the parts in 2 days.

Hopefully you'll find this useful.

Did the Grainger screws fit? Pics?

fastboat
08-07-2008, 05:17 PM
They fit perfect. Low profile head so they sit flush with the door. My dumb ass didn't pay attention that they were steal (not stainless or aluminum) so they rusted at the first rain. I ended up spraying flat black rustoleum on the original screws and used them. I'm still looking for low profile black aluminum or stainless screws.

kuma1720
10-11-2008, 03:38 PM
This may sound like a silly question, but then again may be worth asking to avoid breaking something. Does the gas cap string/attachment pop off? Is it a matter of just pulling it out ?

I just purchased one and will be installing next week. Finally anyone have any black aluminum screws left?

aldaman
10-11-2008, 05:14 PM
........Does the gas cap string/attachment pop off? Is it a matter of just pulling it out ?

You can pull it out carefully or use a scewdriver for assistance & pry it out....

kuma1720
10-15-2008, 04:14 AM
I will be purchasing the black aluminum screws from the site mentioned earlier. I'll post response once I receive them just in case anyone is interested in picking up some. I'll work on reducing size to 6mm as well.:clap:

walkeddownalameda
12-14-2008, 08:13 AM
Anyone have trouble with getting the fuel filler to stay tight? The two top taps do not draw it in close enough ! Either i am missing a gasket between the fuel filler and the body or this thing doesn't fit.
Had dealer install twice after they broke the first one! they also scratched the paint near the fuel filler on my fiance's 09 rubi! she was livid!

bosscj351
12-15-2008, 09:37 AM
Great write up. I know most people don't want to spend money on a fuel door, but I've had to dig mud out of the OEM filler pocket before I could refuel, so I know the advantage of having this.

Soup
12-23-2008, 06:46 PM
I will be purchasing the black aluminum screws from the site mentioned earlier. I'll post response once I receive them just in case anyone is interested in picking up some. I'll work on reducing size to 6mm as well.:clap:

Did you ever get the screws?

cinciredsfan77
12-25-2008, 02:49 PM
Alright this is sad. I got a fuel door for Christmas and tried to install the thing and just couldn't get the old one off. I managed to get the two easy clips pushed in and then worked and worked trying to get the third until finally the third one just broke off. So i figured no big deal since it would be replaced by the new one. So from there i pulled and pulled and could not get the old cone to come off. whats the key? what is the deal with the rubber seal? I don't know what to do with the rubber. any help would be nice. also I'm interested in the black screws if anyone has them. ill send paypal for them if you have extras.

Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone

J.Ro
12-30-2008, 01:51 PM
I would take a set. Thanks a million.

J.Ro
12-30-2008, 02:09 PM
For all the Gappers!!!
I instaled the new Mopar filler door today, and had to work pretty hard to get all the tabs to fall fully behind the thin sheet metal. I also had a small gap and while looking at it, it just did not seem right for an OEM fit. And this is what made me look hard into the tabs. With the cover (Door plate/4 silly chome allen bolts) off, you can see the tabs very well. Make 100% sure all the tabs fall behind the sheet metal. The botom to are fixed in place and ridgid and need to go in 100% first then the top two push tabs go in and also seed behind the sheet metal.
When all my tabs fell 100% behind I had zero gap, OK you can slide a sheet of paper behind the collar but that is about it. I will post a pic when the wife gets back with her jeep.

Any Black screws out there that will not rust? I would like a set please that fit 100% and look like the OEM's (Except black).

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/JroRado/Jeep/PC301223.jpg

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/JroRado/Jeep/PC301214.jpg

Sorry for the dirt and had to run back out to make sure those were not scratches and they were just hairs. Sorry for the dirty shots but they show how the collar is tight to the truck even all the way around. Enjoy.

ericstac
01-02-2009, 10:02 AM
Just a note for the guys with Chrome going to black.

I got the black door to replace the chrome on my Jeep. To do this all I had to do is remove the four cover screws and replace the chrome cover with the black cover. Less than 30 seconds.

;)


btw, I have the chrome fuel door and the chrome rear lights up for sale.

BlueAlgernon
01-03-2009, 12:03 AM
Alright this is sad. I got a fuel door for Christmas and tried to install the thing and just couldn't get the old one off. I managed to get the two easy clips pushed in and then worked and worked trying to get the third until finally the third one just broke off. So i figured no big deal since it would be replaced by the new one. So from there i pulled and pulled and could not get the old cone to come off. whats the key? what is the deal with the rubber seal? I don't know what to do with the rubber. any help would be nice. also I'm interested in the black screws if anyone has them. ill send paypal for them if you have extras.

Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone
Were you able to get it together? Did you pull the cap off first? The rubber gasket should come right off but it is tight as to keep spillage in the cup. Once the gaket is off tne old cup then it pops on into the new cup that the new door will screw onto.

cinciredsfan77
01-03-2009, 10:21 AM
i got it on but the screws don't all match up. i need to go work on it again i just got back from vacation. What got me was the hidden clip on the back. mine actually had 2 hidden clips (4 total) which made it extremely hard to get off and might have bent the sheet metal a little bit.

EDIT: I got it on with no gaps and it looks great. I love it and I'm might be interested in some black screws if anyone has them. thanks for all the tips guys.
happy holidays

Booz Cruz
01-03-2009, 12:11 PM
thats neat man

gimp_dkd
01-16-2009, 08:19 PM
Anybody know where you can get some black replacement screws in quantities less than 50??:thinking:

TechJunkie
02-12-2009, 10:17 PM
I am new to the form and JK but not Jeeps. I bought the Mopar cover and I have a gap that I cannot get rid of. Will this cause any problems? It is on the bottom of the cover and not noticeable unless you get down and really look.

My main concern would be water entering the fender and rusting it out over time. Not sure this is really a major concern since the door itself is not water tight. The rest of the cover you can barely get a piece of paper in. I verified all tabs are in their proper place.

I noticed that Mopar did not attempt to make this cover water tight so I am figuring it is not that big of a deal. I love my jeeps and do not want to cause a problem down the road.

cablecoffey
02-13-2009, 04:39 AM
I had the same issue Junkie,
The fuel door housing has two slots on the bottom that must be slid over the sheet metal first, before the top two "tabs" engage the sheet metal on the top. You'll see when you remove it, that the bottom has two obvious slots.

glivigni
02-13-2009, 04:52 PM
Instead of looking for black replacement screws I spray painted mine with black grill paint that I had leftover from spraying my outdoor fireplace. It's been one month and they still look black as ever..

CitizenX
03-12-2009, 07:24 AM
Thanks for all the helpful information. Does anyone know if this all holds true for the 2008 Wranglers? The reason I ask is I attempted to remove the stock fuel cup to install the new one that came with my fuel door and had a problem with the "tabs". I managed to get the two on the near side (via the tailight) pressed and ready to pop out, but there appears to be two more on the far side? I couldn't really see but there is definitely something still holding it in place. I see from the photos in the first post that there is def. one more just below where the lead plugs in from the gas cap, but looking at the photo makes me think that the 2008's have four clips?

I am planning on taking a trip to the dealership tomorrow to look over the spare parts they have for it to give me a better idea of what I am dealing with, but I wanted to ask you all first.

Also, I did notice there is a pin on my new fuel cup in the 12 o'clock position to keep it from spinning/moving, but is there still a gap problem between the part and the body of the Jeep with the Mopar part when installed? If there was I figured I could cut some gasket or other material to look good and take up the space, I just wanted to plan for it.

Thanks for the help in advance!

hvilla
09-21-2009, 08:52 PM
Great write up! Thanks!

levosgien
10-08-2009, 02:35 PM
Great post, definitely a sticky.

JeepNDad
12-26-2009, 09:38 AM
I'll be attempting to install today or tomorrow. :clap:

08RubiUnlimited
12-26-2009, 01:16 PM
It's super easy to do JeepNDad...BTW glad to see a fellow Shen Valleyite here. I'm down in Fro Ro myself.

JeepNDad
12-26-2009, 04:50 PM
It's super easy to do JeepNDad...BTW glad to see a fellow Shen Valleyite here. I'm down in Fro Ro myself.

Glad to hear you are pretty close by. I know who to call on for help now if I need anything. :beer:

JeepNDad
12-27-2009, 09:43 AM
Thanks for the write ups guys. Went pretty smooth.

mefly2
01-01-2010, 07:44 AM
Can the door be used with a locking gas cap; or is it specfific to the one supplied?

Steve's 95YJ
01-01-2010, 08:38 AM
Can the door be used with a locking gas cap; or is it specfific to the one supplied?

Hi mefly2, yes you can use the fuel door with a locking gas cap........that's exactly the set up that I have.

SAXON
01-25-2010, 10:14 AM
My first mod. MOPAR fuel Door.

All I can say is,, what a pain. You would think something from MOPAR made for one of there vehicles would fit better. The install is straight forward but it ends there. Getting the old housing off was not to bad, but putting the new housing in for the fuel door was a bear. The two lower clips went on ok. There was no way the upper push clips were going to seat right. I had around a 1/16th of an inch of the upper clips what would not push behind the sheet metal. And this is with the housing’s collar pushed flat to the sheet metal.
To make a long story short I used my grinding tool and I took off around a 1/16th of an inch from the upper push tabs on the housing. Well look at this it fits ,,Hurray, And only after 1.5hrs off getting pissed. I still have a very small gap between the housing and the sheet metal, the thickness of a piece of paper but it’s tight. I’ll wait for some warmer weather and put a small bead of RTV around the top of the housing ware the gap is. No dig deal.

AV8R72
03-15-2010, 04:42 AM
I just bought a 2010 Unlimited Sahara, and was trying to install the mopar black fuel door the other day. I can't seem to get the old mounting off. I was able to get the two visible clips pressed and past the metal, but could not "work" the hidden clip(s) out. Any ideas as to how I might try this again? Also, how does one get the rubber seal off? I couldn't get that to budge a all. Any help would be appreciated. If I can't get it done on my own, I'll probably take it to the dealer and have them do it. I just don't want to dish out more cash when it's something I can do on my own. Thanks in advance.