Tailgate shock project Done!!

[DBB888]

OK Guys

As you know I complained that I didn't like the tailgate slamming into my leg unexpected and I don't like the manual lock out option.

So with that in mind, I took left over parts I had in my garage and went to work.

Once again Im not responsible for you copying what I did. Do so at your own risk!!

Tools and parts:
T20 torx
Socket set
Nuts/bolts/washers
Hood shock or trunk shock = 19.5” long- 12” compressed- 7.5” extension
Shock brackets
Plates
Shear Cutter

SKILL

Ok the shock was from my 1990 BMW Convertible Trunk shock. I bought the brackets from Mcmaster- www.mcmaster.com part # 9416K26 and # 9416K29

I took steel plates and welded the brackets on them
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/BracketandPlate.jpg


Next I painted them with hammer paint
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/PaintedBracket.jpg

Then I removed the speaker with the T20 Torx
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/RemoveSpeaker.jpg

Then I had to cut the grill section to mount one of the brackets. This cut my hand a bit when wrenching on the back nut. I used large fender washers in the back.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/CutGrilloff.jpg


Then did trial and error- Error #1
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/BracketonSpeaker.jpg
This was mounted here to because the tailgate had an indentation for the bracket, but it was to close and couldn’t close the tailgate completely. The shock couldn’t compress anymore.


Next I moved it all the way to the end of the speaker and it WORKED!!
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/FinishedonSpeaker2.jpg

BUT I didn’t like how it moved the speaker back and forth and I knew one day it would break.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/th_MountSpeaker.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/?action=view&current=MountSpeaker.flv)




So I made a new bracket.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/NewMount2.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/NewMount.jpg

I had to remove the rear tail light and reach around to fasten the nuts- again used large fender washers.

This worked 100 times better!! I had a leftover right angle bracket from a sears table saw guide and cut it and painted it.



Then I used a Velcro-the soft side- to wrap around the edge of the grill hole and used leftover front grill material to fill the gap.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/NewGrillontailgate.jpg

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/th_Tailgateopen.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/?action=view&current=Tailgateopen.flv)

Now I have to make extension brackets to make the sub fit again because it had to be moved back an inch to 1.5". But thats a piece of cake

[JackMac4]

Very nice! I think it has a wee much power, but that can be adjusted and the idea and brackets look great. Nice mod!

[DBB888]

I agree that the shock is to strong. It was meant to open a trunk that weighs about 35-40 lbs. The swing action is probrably about 10-15lbs of force that would keep the door open.

Trial and error again.

[JackMac4]

I agree that the shock is to strong. It was meant to open a trunk that weighs about 35-40 lbs. The swing action is probrably about 10-15lbs of force that would keep the door open.

Trial and error again.

Yeah, but thats easily fixed. Still...sweet mod. Nice handy work on the brackets. Welding looks fun....WEEEE!!! :hot: :hot:

[doojer]

This is a really great mod. :yup: I had a tripod sticking out of the back of the Jeep and when the gate closed on it, it dented the bottom inside of the gate :naw:

I've been using bungee cords to keep it open but this looks like a nice option... if I ever get around to it. :D

[DBB888]

On the quadratec site theres a lock out I saw on the 06 cars. Its an aluminum bracket piece that mounts on the hinge and has a slider on the gate with a knob that holds it open.

I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm


Mike

[JackMac4]

On the quadratec site theres a lock out I saw on the 06 cars. Its an aluminum bracket piece that mounts on the hinge and has a slider on the gate with a knob that holds it open.

I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm


Mike

Yeah, looks like they stole it from a storm door. I like your solution better.

[Rubimon]

Using blind nuts might have saved you some trouble on the plate mountings. Check them out on the D-ring installation write up. True Value carries them.

[2K1TJ]

Using blind nuts might have saved you some trouble on the plate mountings. Check them out on the D-ring installation write up. True Value carries them.



Yeah, or maybe rivets.


Great mod!!!

[DBB888]

I tried to use them- the sheet metal on the tailgate was so thin that they couldn't bite. They just spun when I tried it.

Plus with the force of the shock I felt safer using lock nuts and large fender washers from behind so I knew nothing would rip off

[Ge99ne]

DBB you are a man among men.
My diveway has some side slope plus it's somewhat steep. That tailgate is always trying to shut on me when I'm hoisting my heavy amp into the cargo area.

I love welding mods. Thanks for taking the time to document & post.:thumbs: :bowdown:

[Egmont]

That is a great idea, Taylor Made makes them for hatches on boats. The come in a ball form, here is a link to the gas pistons and brackets.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/categoryg/10001/-1/10001/487/151/24/man/asc/45/grid

[DBB888]

Im glad you guys like it!!

I had time today to make a few improvements.

1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.

2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.

Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb

[RedRockJK]

Im glad you guys like it!!

I had time today to make a few improvements.

1. I put 1/2 inch spacers between the jeep wall and bracket so the piston would sit against the rubber seal.

2. I bought a lower lb shock rated at 20 lbs so it opens slower and easier without that much force so the bracket and door doesn't slam open. I did buy the 15 lb one but that was to light. The one I had on before was a 50 lb shock. I think I may even change that to a 30 this week to see how that is.

Mcmaster part # 9416K191 is the 20 lb

Great mod! And you gotta love mcmaster, I could spend days just clicking around their site wondering what I could do with all that stuff.

[DBB888]

I gotta give it to Mcmaster - I use them for work and there's just so much stuff its incredible. And if I order b4 12pm I'll have it by 3pm Same day!!

[DBB888]

I got a 30 and a 40 lb shock and the 30 works alot better. Not to strong not to weak

[Woods]

Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.



http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/964/minidsc3149cd4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5724/minidsc3157mt3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/7419/minidsc3159or3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Rubimon]

Would it be possible to get a picture of the whole door. Inside , of course. Thanks!

[Woods]

Would it be possible to get a picture of the whole door. Inside , of course. Thanks!

Like this?


http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/7605/minidsc3163qq4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[DBB888]

I like yours better than mine!!!

[yellowjeeper85]

Like this?


http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/7605/minidsc3163qq4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

looks great man, way to go, i'm going to have to do this now. thanks for the idea.

[HEFTY]

Can we get a pic from inside with the door closed?

HEFTY

[Rubimon]

I like it. It looks very clean! Good job!

[Woods]

Can we get a pic from inside with the door closed?

HEFTY

This do it?

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/2483/minidsc3170gq9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[possumface]

thats a great install there, i didn't fully understand what u all where talking about until i started removing the hardtop and the dang door kept slamming on my legs , hitting me in the backside with enough force to shoot me thru the front window LOL

[instantclogger]

[QUOTE=Woods;50897]Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.



http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/964/minidsc3149cd4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


This is my first jeep and my biggest complaint about it is the tailgate. My driveway is not level by any means so i am always having an issue trying to put my husbands wheelchair in the back and trying to hold the door open at the same time. :naw: This is exactly what we were wanting to do but had not looked into how to go about it. The pics are great! Thank you so much, it is a big help. Can you tell me which parts from west marine you used? like which shock and brackets?

[Rubimon]

[QUOTE=Woods;50897]Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.



http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/964/minidsc3149cd4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


This is my first jeep and my biggest complaint about it is the tailgate. My driveway is not level by any means so i am always having an issue trying to put my husbands wheelchair in the back and trying to hold the door open at the same time. :naw: This is exactly what we were wanting to do but had not looked into how to go about it. The pics are great! Thank you so much, it is a big help. Can you tell me which parts from west marine you used? like which shock and brackets?


If you go to west marine there are only a couple to choose from, 10lbs up to 90lbs and the ball sockets are hanging right there with them in stainless or black.

[instantclogger]

We don't have a west marine in alabama that i know of. I went to their website and there are like 12 different 40# shock/supports (whatever you want to call them) and there are zinc brackets and staneless steel brackets. That's why i was wondering what you had used, like what the length was and which type of bracket. I looked at the supports at autozone today and there was probably 100 different ones but they didn't have brackets. i'll check out the local marine shops this week. Thanks!

[Rubimon]

I believe this is the one. Gas Lift Charged 20inx40 Lb 8508871 1837 Only $22.49 USD

Hopefully Woods will chime in and verify. I haven't done it yet but I did stop by my local west marine and looked at them. That is the price and length they were.

[instantclogger]

LOL! I didn't even pay attention to who had replied to my post. Sorry about that I just assumed it was Woods and never even looked. It's been a looooong day!

Thanks for the info. This is my first jeep and this forum has been a HUGE source of information for me.
So far the only problem i've had was 2 days ago when the infamous "stall bug" struck. I was really hoping that wasn't going to happen but no such luck. :|

[Woods]

I believe this is the one. Gas Lift Charged 20inx40 Lb 8508871 1837 Only $22.49 USD

Hopefully Woods will chime in and verify. I haven't done it yet but I did stop by my local west marine and looked at them. That is the price and length they were.

That's correct for the 40Lb. I first tried the 30 Lb. and thought it to little. I tried the 40lb. It was to much. I switched back to the 30 lb.

Shock Link;http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...001/487/151/24

Gas Lift Charged 20inx30 Lb West Marine Part Number 8508863 Manu. part number 1836 $22.49

Gas Lift Charged 20inx40 Lb West Marine part number 8508871 Manu. part number 1837 $22.49

Here is a link to the ball joint angle brackets;
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...001/487/151/24

Angle Brackets part number
8509069 $8.79 (for two)

[instantclogger]

YAY! Thanks for the info. It is very much appreciated!

[Gr8gugly]

How bout those spacers?

[DBB888]

The spacers I used were 1/2 inch. You can use a stack of thick washers- but i hate that. I had my machine shop make it for me.

[SCF]

Just odered up the parts for wife's JK. Thanks to DBB88 and Woods for this! Shipping was actually about the same price as driving to the closest store.

[The_Superhoo]

DB888, what did you do with your sub after you attached the shock to the wall?

[DBB888]

DB888, what did you do with your sub after you attached the shock to the wall?

Check it Out!!

http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=5249

[RedRockJK]

Woods,

Can you do me a favor and give me the measurement of the angle brackets I've marked here? (Distance from the mounting surface to the tip of the angle bracket just past the ball socket.)

Thanks!

http://www.ayresweb.com/RedRockJK/ball_socket_bracket.jpg

[SCF]

If he doesn't get back to you, I'll take measurements tonite. He used a 1/2" spacer, so I'll measure the bracket. I have the exact same ones thanks to his info.

[Lucas718]

Makes you wonder why Jeep wouldn't install something like this on every vehicle. It just seems like common sense to not have the tailgate swinging around haphazardly.

[USAF_GroundRat]

Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.

Would you happen to have a part number list of the stuff you got from West Marine? I checked their site and saw the small, medium, and large pneumatic kits, but they had no weight rating on them. Any help would be much appreciated. Great mod! Looks very clean too.

[Rubimon]

Would you happen to have a part number list of the stuff you got from West Marine? I checked their site and saw the small, medium, and large pneumatic kits, but they had no weight rating on them. Any help would be much appreciated. Great mod! Looks very clean too.

Read post #32

[USAF_GroundRat]

:doh: I missed that one! :nuts:

Thanks bud!

[Woods]

[QUOTE=RedRockJK;70396]Woods,

Can you do me a favor and give me the measurement of the angle brackets I've marked here? (Distance from the mounting surface to the tip of the angle bracket just past the ball socket.)

Thanks!



Looks like 1 5/16"

.

[RedRockJK]

Thanks! I found some angle ball brackets that are deeper than that, so I might be able to use one of them and not have to machine a spacer. :)

[Gr8gugly]

I was looking today and found all the parts online for this for less than $20. (I think. So long as these parts are the same) Check out reid supply and let me know what you think.

Part #
GAS-132
GAS-201
GAS-303

[RepressedSince15]

You guys are fan freakin tastic! I spent a few hours tossing and turning in bed how to engineer something like this last night after getting whacked in the head while bending down near the subwoofer. Now I've got instructions, images and a parts list! Incredible! I'm almost afraid to go out to the garage for fear that somebody will be out there installing one...

Thanks!:D

[lightning]

You guys are fan freakin tastic! I spent a few hours tossing and turning in bed how to engineer something like this last night after getting whacked in the head while bending down near the subwoofer. Now I've got instructions, images and a parts list! Incredible! I'm almost afraid to go out to the garage for fear that somebody will be out there installing one...

Thanks!:D
Awesome, thanks for the writeup !!

[07 RBY]

I've been lucky so far. My driveway only has a slight slope, so I've never noticed this.

[Milkman]

Excellent mod....my parts are on the way.

For you Mcmaster-Carr fans the parts #'s are....

4138T573 (Stainless Steel Bracket with Ball, correct length no spacer required)
9512K12 (30lb Gas Cylinder with 10mm Steel Ball socket ends)

Total: $27.49 plus shipping

Thanks guys!

[Gr8gugly]

Got all the stuff from reid supply for about $28 shipped. Got it installed and it looks great. The plastic tailgate piece is very easy to cut.

[del4s]

This is a great mod. Thanks for the ideas.

Here's mine,

http://shutter05.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/09/005/7D/DB/6D/D9/jNox8iHtmzVAs8DWSQIAQP6uBlgvgJBK0300.jpg

Chuck

[JeepJunky]

This is a great mod, and I have the brackets and gas shock in hand but have one question for the folks who have done it.

How are you guys attaching the bracket to the actual tailgate?
I would like a backing plate in there. I saw where DBB had cut out the mesh in the bottom of the tailgate, but it doesn't look like the others are doing that?

Any pics of the tailgate bracket install? Some pics without the plastic piece put back on the tailgate?

Thanks!

[Gr8gugly]

I used the Blind rivet nuts. I bought a set from harbour freight tools. They also carry them at northern tools online. I think they were about $15 for the kit which included the tool and 10 nuts of 4 different sizes.

[101gargoyles]

Just finished my installation typical to the one that WOODS posted 03-23-07.
For the materials I found my local marine supply store carried several different makes but I chose ones from a company called SEA-DOG. Their product is made in the U.S. and I liked the way the retainer clips worked on the cup-and-ball end connections leaving a nice finished look without metal exposed.
Also the stainless mounting L-brackets are meaty with holes for #10 fasteners.I used self piloting TEK screws commonly used in industrial applications.
GAS LIFT SPRING 20" L, 30# pt # 321483-1
GAS LIFT MOUNT 90 DEG. - WIDE pt # 321582-1
stainless steel
2"X1.2" mount plate

Total cost for all was $28 can.
This is a must have mod and I agree,30 lb. is perfect.Just like it should have come from the factory with.

[gpwpat]

This is one of the best mods yet. I got my parts yesterday.

Mcmastercarr

9512K93 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG STEM BALL BRACKET

9512K92 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG NECK BALL BRACKET

4138T584 GAS SPRING WITH BALL-JOINT END FITTING, 40 LB FORCE, 20.12" EXTENDED LENGTH, 8.27" STROKE

I wish I had gone with the 30 lb shock. But oh well. using the 2 sizes of brackets results with an instalatin that fullys opens the door, fully compresses the gas spring, When closed the gas spring is parallel with the door. The job looks factory. I used rivit nuts to anchor the parts, and cut a slot out of the carpet and a slot out of the plastic trim. I will probably paint the brackets semi gloss black. Will post my pictures later.

I really noticed I needed this mod when I was camping over the weekend and getting into the back I kept geting slammed getting my gear out.

Now we need 4" gas springs on the doors

[DBB888]

Its one long piece of plastic with tabs on the back. When I did my back up camera project I took this picture
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l67/dbb888/Tailgate/Removetailgatepanel.jpg

Those slots are where the tabs are. I just remember sqeezing and pulling it off or used my panel popper tool. Its easy. Well for me. Just be careful.

[HG07JKRubi]

Mcmastercarr
9512K93 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG STEM BALL BRACKET
9512K92 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG NECK BALL BRACKET
4138T584 GAS SPRING WITH BALL-JOINT END FITTING, 40 LB FORCE, 20.12" EXTENDED LENGTH, 8.27" STROKE



gpwpat - do you have pics posted anywhere of this install? I'm interested to see how the diffrerent size brackets turned out.

Thanks.

[Hip2u77]

This is one of the best mods yet. I got my parts yesterday.

Mcmastercarr

9512K93 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG STEM BALL BRACKET

9512K92 BALL MOUNTING HARDWARE, STEEL, 90 DEG ANGLE LONG NECK BALL BRACKET

4138T584 GAS SPRING WITH BALL-JOINT END FITTING, 40 LB FORCE, 20.12" EXTENDED LENGTH, 8.27" STROKE

I wish I had gone with the 30 lb shock. But oh well. using the 2 sizes of brackets results with an instalatin that fullys opens the door, fully compresses the gas spring, When closed the gas spring is parallel with the door. The job looks factory. I used rivit nuts to anchor the parts, and cut a slot out of the carpet and a slot out of the plastic trim. I will probably paint the brackets semi gloss black. Will post my pictures later.

I really noticed I needed this mod when I was camping over the weekend and getting into the back I kept geting slammed getting my gear out.

Now we need 4" gas springs on the doors



I ordered these same parts, but I'm not real happy with the shock as it doesn't slow down at the end of it's travel. (like the shocks on the hard top.)

So. . . which shocks are people using that slow down when they get close to being fully extended? I wanna be able to open the door and not have to worry about it slamming open.

Part numbers and place of purchase would be helpful.

Thanks!

[FzyPchz]

Mine is a 30lb shock and have no problems.

[Hip2u77]

Mine is a 30lb shock and have no problems.

So yours has the cushion at the end of travel so it slows down before being fully extended?

Either mine doesn't have the oil in it to cause the cushioning effect, it's bad, or it doesn't work right being horizontal, and not vertical.

Edit: Going back and looking at McMaster-Carr's site it says "All gas springs contain pressurized nitrogen gas as well as hydraulic fluid that lubricates the seal and provides slam-resistant damping at the end of the stroke." So, I guess mine is just a bad shock. I'll get it replaced and see if that solves the problem.

[FzyPchz]

So yours has the cushion at the end of travel so it slows down before being fully extended?

Yes. Mine slows down before becoming fully extended.

[DBB888]

I finally decided that the 50lb shock works best for me- I tried 30 and 40 but 50 is kick ass and swings open when im on a hill and door has to push against the slope with no problem

Im Crazy:rotflmao1:

[HG07JKRubi]

I got my McMaster-Carr parts the other day and am ready to install. For those that mounted the bracket behind the plastic trim on the door, can you post a picture before you replaced the trim? My bracket does not fit flush anywhere behind that trim since that area of the door is recessed. I was thinking of installing the door bracket above or below the trim piece. Thanks.

[Jamooche]

I just ordered the McMaster parts too. Thanks for everyone's great info. I'll be taking full photos of my install to share with you all.

As for the gas shock, it says that the ball joint ins removeable to attach to the ball bracket, but without having it in front of me I can't see how it would come apart??

[HG07JKRubi]

I just ordered the McMaster parts too. Thanks for everyone's great info. I'll be taking full photos of my install to share with you all.

As for the gas shock, it says that the ball joint ins removeable to attach to the ball bracket, but without having it in front of me I can't see how it would come apart??

I had the same question when I got my parts in the mail and I actually called McMaster. Bottom line, remove the the small clip that holds the ball in and then pull out the ball. You have to give it a good tug. Now you can attach the shock to the bracket. I may do my install this weekend as well. I still have questions on where to mount the bracket on the tailgate so it sits flush.

[purple11haze]

You are right the bracket does not fit flush. I had the same problem and gpwpat had the answer for me. Thanks gpwpat. Place three oversized nuts behind the bracket so that the bolts go thru them holding them in place. It's a pain in the neck but it works. Good luck.

As far as positioning the shock, let the shock fully extend and open the tailgate fully. Attach the brackets to both ends of the shock. Hold the shock in place and mark the location of the brackets.

[Jamooche]

I ordered these same parts, but I'm not real happy with the shock as it doesn't slow down at the end of it's travel. (like the shocks on the hard top.)

So. . . which shocks are people using that slow down when they get close to being fully extended? I wanna be able to open the door and not have to worry about it slamming open.

Part numbers and place of purchase would be helpful.

Thanks!

I just installed mine too and it also doesn't seem to slow down at the end of it's travel. It bounces a bit at the end. You guys with a 40 and 50 lb shock must get a lot of bounce. It doesn't really bother me since without the shock I would have to position the door out there anyway. Now I just don't have to hold it.

I uploaded a gallery of images during the intall:

Parts were from McMaster Carr, Rivet Nuts and gun from Harbor Freight, Screws and washers from Ace Hardware.

http://www.pbase.com/jamooche/tailgae_shock

[HG07JKRubi]

nice job Jamooche - I like the way you installed the tailgate bracket upside down, at least you have a good flat piece of the door to mount it to there. I've had the parts for weeks...Iguess it's my turn to install.

[DBB888]

Come to think about it - Mine doesnt slow down either-


Guys with the Shock that slows down at the End-

Info:

Where did you get and what part # please

Thanks

Mike

[jblankster]

can i use some self tapping sheet metal screws so i dont need to cut anything? or at least how im looking at it you needed to cut a big hole to do this?

[Jamooche]

can i use some self tapping sheet metal screws so i dont need to cut anything? or at least how im looking at it you needed to cut a big hole to do this?

I guess you could use self-tapping screws, but that wouldn't be as supportive. I usesd Rivet Nuts which pop in like a rivet, but have a hole with treads in it. I drilled the smallest hole for that sized rivet nut which I think was 9/32". So, the only cutting / holes were 6 holes for the rivet nuts and a slice of the carpet to fit around the inner bracket.

I tested the 30 lb shock on a steep hill today. It didn't open the door for me, but once open it held in place. I can see why some people might need the heavier shocks.

[jblankster]

I guess you could use self-tapping screws, but that wouldn't be as supportive. I usesd Rivet Nuts which pop in like a rivet, but have a hole with treads in it. I drilled the smallest hole for that sized rivet nut which I think was 9/32". So, the only cutting / holes were 6 holes for the rivet nuts and a slice of the carpet to fit around the inner bracket.

I tested the 30 lb shock on a steep hill today. It didn't open the door for me, but once open it held in place. I can see why some people might need the heavier shocks.
ok, that way sounds alot better, and stronger lol

[Mo-mud]

Nice mod....Now hows about shaving the rear handle and putting a trunk pop on the remote? Too much?

[Huklbery]

Milkman:
I'm going to order parts for this mod today and wondering what your experience has been with the parts you ordered. Are you satisfied with the 30# strut or would a stiffer one have been better? Also, am I correct in understanding that no spacers are required with the brackets you used? Thanks very much.

[RedneckJeep]

Same project. I chose to use the Ball Joint shocks, and standard Ball Joint Brackets. I used Nutserts to mount the brackets to the sheet metal. You could easily through-bolt the brackets behind the Subwoofer. Access is easy by removing the taillight. I had to use 1/2" spacers for both brackets. All parts purchased at West Marine. A 40 Lb. shock is better, as there is less leverage with this approach.



http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/964/minidsc3149cd4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5724/minidsc3157mt3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img480.imageshack.us/img480/7419/minidsc3159or3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Very nice job. It looks factory. How bout some part numbers? Nevermind. My dumbass went back and read the whole thread like I was sposed to and found um.

[cim330]

I just installed mine too and it also doesn't seem to slow down at the end of it's travel. It bounces a bit at the end. You guys with a 40 and 50 lb shock must get a lot of bounce. It doesn't really bother me since without the shock I would have to position the door out there anyway. Now I just don't have to hold it.

I uploaded a gallery of images during the intall:

Parts were from McMaster Carr, Rivet Nuts and gun from Harbor Freight, Screws and washers from Ace Hardware.

http://www.pbase.com/jamooche/tailgae_shock

As to the rivet nuts and gun, can you show the link? I am confused by all the sizes..

[Jamooche]

As to the rivet nuts and gun, can you show the link? I am confused by all the sizes..

I bought Harbor Freight ITEM 94100-0VGA and ITEM 2972-0VGA

That will have everything you need for the install minus the screws to anchor the plate to the rivet nut. Just bring one rivet nut to a hardware store and find the appropriate screw.

[cim330]

I bought Harbor Freight ITEM 94100-0VGA and ITEM 2972-0VGA

That will have everything you need for the install minus the screws to anchor the plate to the rivet nut. Just bring one rivet nut to a hardware store and find the appropriate screw.

Thanks! I finally located the tool locally.

[neoxxis]

Hi!

I finally got to it and my shock is installed.
Very good idea and practical option!
Thanks to whoever came up with it!

Pic:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3027/2289238417_e6064ec07b_o_d.jpg

(I'm against the sun but we see what must be seen.)

Took the pieces at McMaster and it took maybe 1 hour to install (while taking precautions not to over drill the holes for the rivet nuts...).

Items:

4138T573
Gas Spring with Ball-Joint End Fitting 30 lb Force, 19.72" Extended Length, 7.87" Stroke (Same as 4138T57)

9512K12
Ball Mounting Hardware 304 SS 90 Deg Angle Long Neck Ball Bracket

97217A359
Zinc/Yellow Pltd Steel Slotted Body Rivet Nut 10-32 Internal Thread, 0.020"-0.175" Material Thk


The rivet nuts did not come with the screws so I bought 10-32 screws separately.
The rivet nuts:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217ap1s.gif

This is very strong. The rivets did a really good job.

The only thing, as some others have said, is that when the door nears the full open position, the shock does make a "braking" sound but it still bounces a bit at the end. Even the metal where I attached the bracket in the Jeep (just over the sub) waves a bit.
I just have to restrain it from opening by itself up to the end and everything is fine.

Next will be to paint the brackets... With real Jeep paint... ;)

10-4.

[Jamooche]

Hi!

I finally got to it and my shock is installed.
Very good idea and practical option!
Thanks to whoever came up with it!


Nice install. I see you did it the upside down way like I did, which makes it much easier.

[neoxxis]

Nice install. I see you did it the upside down way like I did, which makes it much easier.

Yeah, easier and no cutting on the factory plastic plate...
Put some Rescue Green paint on and it'll be perfect!

:yup:

[RedneckJeep]

Alright, yall got me to wantin to drill holes in my Jeep over this one. Here's mine.

First, before I do ANY kinda work on hinges and the like on ANY vehicle, I level her up.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/Geardrivensteam/SHOCK.jpg

Then, I transferred the bracket bolt pattern to the inside of the tub. I placed it as far up as possible, to use the strength of the 90 degree bend at the top, and as far back as possible, to get into the area where the tub is double walled and spot welded, so that I'd be into TWO layers of sheet metal.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/Geardrivensteam/SHOCK1.jpg

Marks transferred to the tailgate.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/Geardrivensteam/SHOCK2.jpg

The finished product.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h200/Geardrivensteam/SHOCK3.jpg

Now, I got the 40 pound shock. It does not open the gate all by itself. I think it is best this way. It does however, HOLD it open very well, and I think that was the intent. This is a good mod that oughtta be thought about doin from the factory.

[neoxxis]

Nice job man!

[PhirstJeep]

This looks like an awesome solution...just ordered my parts from McMaster!!!

[neoxxis]

It's interresting to see the evolution of the mod from forum to forum...
I think it's approaching perfection now...
-Drill in the double-ply metal near the bend in the Jeep.
-Install shock just over plastic plate on the tailgate.
-Put one bracket upside, one downside to "hide" the shock near the plastic plate.
-Paint brackets (still not done on mine).

The first time I read about this mod, the guy (DBB888 - Thanks for the idea!!!) cut a big freaking hole in his tailgate to install his home-made bracket with screws "in" the tailgate...
Then other people did the mod with little variations, ending with what we have here... A clean, simple solution, all of this for 25$ and 1 hour of work...

Thanks DBB888 for starting this.

Jeepers rule!

[DBB888]

I'm "The Guy" who cut the hole =) and started the thread. Still works awesome and Im glad to see that everyone rethought it out and improved on it.

Then again- I wrote alot of write ups and you guys are making your own versions.

Its good to see everyones version. Makes me redo mine or rethink why I didnt think of it the first time.

While the warm weather is coming I have more write ups on the way.

Glad to see you guys still refering to my write ups

Mike

[cableguy7778]

Great idea DBB888! I just completed this install using the West Marine parts with the 40lb shock. I picked up the blind nut rivet kit from Harbor Freight. Wow, i was amazed at their prices. It wasn't a bad install.

I had a little trouble with drilling the holes in the tailgate though. If you look in the picture, where I chose to mount the bracket was a poor choice. One hole was through one piece of sheet metal and the other 2 holes were through 1.5 pieces. The drill bit only made contact with the second piece on about 1/2 the bit causing it to want to "walk" (notice the crooked bracket on my door). Just be careful if you try mounting yours as high as I did mine.

I would recommend picking up a different ball bracket than the West Marine ones though since putting in a spacer is a minor hassle. I believe that the McMaster parts are a bit more forgiving in this aspect.

http://peltier.onlinestoragesolution.com/Rear%20Door%20Shock.jpg

I'm not sure if I like the 40lb shock though. The door slams open for me too. It does it with such force that the whole vehicle shakes. I'm going to try a 30lb to see if that will do the trick.

[Huklbery]

Great idea DBB888! I just completed this install using the West Marine parts with the 40lb shock. I picked up the blind nut rivet kit from Harbor Freight. Wow, i was amazed at their prices. It wasn't a bad install.

I had a little trouble with drilling the holes in the tailgate though. If you look in the picture, where I chose to mount the bracket was a poor choice. One hole was through one piece of sheet metal and the other 2 holes were through 1.5 pieces. The drill bit only made contact with the second piece on about 1/2 the bit causing it to want to "walk" (notice the crooked bracket on my door). Just be careful if you try mounting yours as high as I did mine.

I would recommend picking up a different ball bracket than the West Marine ones though since putting in a spacer is a minor hassle. I believe that the McMaster parts are a bit more forgiving in this aspect.

http://peltier.onlinestoragesolution.com/Rear%20Door%20Shock.jpg

I'm not sure if I like the 40lb shock though. The door slams open for me too. It does it with such force that the whole vehicle shakes. I'm going to try a 30lb to see if that will do the trick.
Even if you drop down to a 30# shock, you ought to restrain the tailgate so it doesn't swing out under its own power. I used a 30# shock and the gate bounces at the end of its travel if I forget to ease it out slowly. The weight of the tire still creates a fair amount of stress on the bracket rivets that could cause the brackets to loosen over time if the gate is allowed to swing out freely most of the time.

It's hard to understand how your drill bit walked on you, unless you didn't punch the metal first and drill a pilot hole, but it appears that you went out of your way to mount the bracket on the gate in a place (high, near the bend) that was likely to bite you.

[neoxxis]

Quick updated pic with the painted bracket...
I put a plastic bag around the bracket and used tape to seal it around the bracket...
I put 5 layers! ;)

http://www.neoxxis.com/jeep/jeep_pics/jeep_lift/medium/0016.jpg

[jblankster]

gonna do this on my tj when i get a chance!

[bigbluejk]

that is great work Woods!!! looks stock. I would like to thank you for giving me more work to do, cause I have to do this mod now.

[BILLARF]

I just installed the JK Tailgate Gas Strut Kit from Cool Tech, LLC Inc. Excellent hardware.
Clean installation. Works great! Price was very good also. Look here.. http://www.cooltechllc.com/servlet/Detail?no=25


Something I posted after I did the install...
http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=40871



.

[blkpearl]

Quick updated pic with the painted bracket...
I put a plastic bag around the bracket and used tape to seal it around the bracket...
I put 5 layers! ;)

http://www.neoxxis.com/jeep/jeep_pics/jeep_lift/medium/0016.jpg

just wondering were you got the green paint, its pretty close to factory

[neoxxis]

just wondering were you got the green paint, its pretty close to factory

It IS factory... :thumbsup:

It's the Mopar Rescue Green rattle can.
Got it at the dealer. Part #05163157AA
5 oz.
11$

I also got the little "touch up" pen... (I wanted the rattle can first but they got me the pen...) Part #05163156AA
1.5 oz.
10$

The rattle can does a great job.
The paint is very thick.
After drying it is exactly like the body paint.

10-4.

[blkpearl]

It IS factory... :thumbsup:

It's the Mopar Rescue Green rattle can.
Got it at the dealer. Part #05163157AA
5 oz.
11$

I also got the little "touch up" pen... (I wanted the rattle can first but they got me the pen...) Part #05163156AA
1.5 oz.
10$

The rattle can does a great job.
The paint is very thick.
After drying it is exactly like the body paint.

10-4.


thanks alot

[Voodoo]

I like Brett's version better. He ships you a very nice, long and strong reinforcement bar to mount the actual gate bracket to. This eliminates any flex on the (weak) sheet metal of the gate....

Now that you remind me... still gonna mount the hood-lift kit... grumble... So little time, so many things to do...

[Dragline]

I did my mod with parts from McMaster and the 30 lb strut, couldn't be happier, works great,

[dsword]

MSC Industrial Supply has the brackets in Black Zinc (I imagine their then the same color as the gas spring), if you so desire.

All the parts totalled $18.75 plus shipping, ordered on line at:
mscdirect.com - Sorry, forgot about the direct link rule....

#427112 - 2" Black Zinc Ball Mount Bracket $1.03

#427203 - 1" Black Zinc Ball Mount Bracket $1.02

#32912206 - Safety Clip QTY 2 EACH - $.50

#483743 - Fixed Force Gas Springs Capacity: 30 Extended Length: 19.63 Stroke: 7 - $16.20

More Choices = Good!:cool:

[bigdeenus]

I just finished this mod and it's awesome!

I tried to use RedneckJeep's instructions, and have been really happy with the results. My only complaints are that I ended up drilling my holes a little crooked in the tailgate, so I'm in the process of creatively covering the bracket up with something that might hide my little oops...

I used all the parts from McMaster (the 40lb strut is perfect!), and I bought a rivet nut installation tool from a local auto parts store to pop in the rivet nuts. The tool was almost $70, but it was definitely worth it. I tried using a home made rivet nut installation tool for some mods on my old liberty, and it didn't work out so well. If there is anyone in the Monterey, CA area that ever needs to borrow it, feel free to PM me. It's much easier than the "nut-and-bolt" method of trying to install a rivet nut. :thumbsup:

[bigbluejk]

I have a dumb question. Woods are you "tom woods" ? like tom woods driveshafts and upgrades.

[Rubimon]

I have a dumb question. Woods are you "tom woods" ? like tom woods driveshafts and upgrades.

Nope....as in Brett Woods!

[pearl-drum-man]

I'll have to add this mod to the "to do" list.

[bigbluejk]

Nope....as in Brett Woods!

oh ok. I didnt know cause he does a lot of clean upgrades and stuff. thanks for clearing it up.

[MUD PLZ]

This mod is great. Got all my stuff at West Marine. Installed with no probs. Thanks for the all the info!

[Jamooche]

While this is a great mod, it didn't last for me. (see my prior posts in this tread with a link to a gallery of photos for my install). A few weeks ago I noticed the 30lb shock was bending the mount on the inside body part. And a few days ago, the rivet nuts gave out and the shock popped out.

So what does this mean? I think it means that you need to guide the door open at all times and not let it open and bounce on it's own.

What am I going to do? Nothing. I'm gong to leave the shock off and make a clip mount for some sort of rod or stick that I can pull out to prop the door open (like a hood prop) when the need arises.

Just my experience and I thought I would share.

[YellowToy]

While this is a great mod, it didn't last for me. (see my prior posts in this tread with a link to a gallery of photos for my install). A few weeks ago I noticed the 30lb shock was bending the mount on the inside body part. And a few days ago, the rivet nuts gave out and the shock popped out.

So what does this mean? I think it means that you need to guide the door open at all times and not let it open and bounce on it's own.

What am I going to do? Nothing. I'm gong to leave the shock off and make a clip mount for some sort of rod or stick that I can pull out to prop the door open (like a hood prop) when the need arises.

Just my experience and I thought I would share.

Anyone try a stiff spring? We used to have a door at our camp that had a long spring that was bent when it was closed. When you opened the door the spring would straighten & act like a prop. You'd then have to bend the spring in the middle with your finger to make it close again.

[HG07JKRubi]

While this is a great mod, it didn't last for me. (see my prior posts in this tread with a link to a gallery of photos for my install). A few weeks ago I noticed the 30lb shock was bending the mount on the inside body part. And a few days ago, the rivet nuts gave out and the shock popped out.

So what does this mean? I think it means that you need to guide the door open at all times and not let it open and bounce on it's own.

What am I going to do? Nothing. I'm gong to leave the shock off and make a clip mount for some sort of rod or stick that I can pull out to prop the door open (like a hood prop) when the need arises.

Just my experience and I thought I would share.

I'm noticing the same thing on my install. The shock and mounts are still in place and it works great but I can tell that the inside mount will eventually fail due to the stress on the rivets from opening the gate. There is already some wiggle on that mount. We'll see how it goes but I was concerned about this from the beginning that mounting to sheet metal could eventually be a weak spot of this setup.

[Jamooche]

I'm noticing the same thing on my install. The shock and mounts are still in place and it works great but I can tell that the inside mount will eventually fail due to the stress on the rivets from opening the gate. There is already some wiggle on that mount. We'll see how it goes but I was concerned about this from the beginning that mounting to sheet metal could eventually be a weak spot of this setup.

Exactly. I may eventually try taking out the rear tail light and bolting it through which would make it much stronger.

[neoxxis]

That's why I used these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217ap1s.gif

They lock inside so they will never come off...

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217al1s.gif

Not like the ones that you "try to pop" like a rivet... They will come off I have no doubt!

10-4.

[Jamooche]

That's why I used these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217ap1s.gif

They lock inside so they will never come off...

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217al1s.gif

Not like the ones that you "try to pop" like a rivet... They will come off I have no doubt!

10-4.

THanks for the info...I'll try those next time.

[sloppyjoe]

Thats the super duper Tim the Tool man Taylor door system. I like the idea though just a bit stout. Good tymes JOE>

[sixt7gt350]

http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/DSCF0378.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/DSCF0379.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/DSCF0375.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/DSCF0373.jpg

I installed at an angle to give the gas cylinder its prescribed "rod down" orientation and it also gives a cleaner look to the bracket on the door. The only real concern is closing the door on cargo and the loss of a couple inches.

Brackets and strut from West Marine.
Stainless attaching hardware from Menards.

I installed the door bracket in about 1 inch from its full extended position.

[cmpmacchia]

Looks good! I don't like the idea of cutting into the rear door though.....that kind of freaks me out!:eek2:

[Voodoo]

While this is a great mod, it didn't last for me. (see my prior posts in this tread with a link to a gallery of photos for my install). A few weeks ago I noticed the 30lb shock was bending the mount on the inside body part. And a few days ago, the rivet nuts gave out and the shock popped out.

So what does this mean? I think it means that you need to guide the door open at all times and not let it open and bounce on it's own.

What am I going to do? Nothing. I'm gong to leave the shock off and make a clip mount for some sort of rod or stick that I can pull out to prop the door open (like a hood prop) when the need arises.

Just my experience and I thought I would share.
This is why I like Brett's kit.
The auminium bar distributes the force on a large surface. Mine is rock-solid...

[Woods]

While this is a great mod, it didn't last for me. (see my prior posts in this tread with a link to a gallery of photos for my install). A few weeks ago I noticed the 30lb shock was bending the mount on the inside body part. And a few days ago, the rivet nuts gave out and the shock popped out.

So what does this mean? I think it means that you need to guide the door open at all times and not let it open and bounce on it's own.

What am I going to do? Nothing. I'm gong to leave the shock off and make a clip mount for some sort of rod or stick that I can pull out to prop the door open (like a hood prop) when the need arises.

Just my experience and I thought I would share.

Hey bud,

I've got a proposal for you. I'd like to see the folks get a review of my kit, as a comparison to others. If you're interested in posting up a review here, I'll send you one of my kits at half price ($35). And if you don't like it, then send it back for a refund. Be forewarned, this kit is much more work to install. But I think you'll be happy with it.
If your just over it and are not interested, I completely understand. And if that's the case, I'll make the same offer to HG97TJ

And for anybody installing any kit such as this DO NOT rely on the shock as a tailgate stop. The stock hinges are designed to do this. Let them do their job. Also, If I'm parked on a grade that's steep toward the passenger side, always hand-hold the tailgate to stop it from flying open.

Thanks for the props, Voodoo.

[Huklbery]

I installed a 30# strut last winter using pop rivets because the blind-rivet gun I ordered hadn't arrived in time to install the parts before I had to head out on a lengthy road trip. I've taken care to restrain the tailgate on opening and the brackets are just as snug now as they were four or five months ago. If and when the pop rivets fail, I'll drill them out and install the beefier rivets, but the point is, regardless of the fasteners or hardware, it'll always be necessary to ease out the tailgate. Small price to pay for terrific modification.

[Voodoo]

Hey bud,

Thanks for the props, Voodoo.

Nothing to thank for. :bleh:

Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit! :what?:

The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.

If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...

It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong. :thumbsup:

[Patchules]

Just ordered the Woods kit for both the hood and rear gate. With two antennas on the spare tire mount I need the door to stay open when the window is up.


Nothing to thank for. :bleh:

Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit! :what?:

The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.

If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...

It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong. :thumbsup:

[72Jeeper]

This is why I like Brett's kit.
The auminium bar distributes the force on a large surface. Mine is rock-solid...


I'll second that vote!! Brett's stuff is all rock solid and very well made, with GREAT instructions.

[Combat Jump]

I added this to my 2009 white Rubicon Unlimited, and my wife loves it - no more getting hit in the back of the legs while loading groceries.

I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:

1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.

2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.

My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.

I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.

I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.

I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.

Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.

I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?

[sixt7gt350]

I added this to my 2009 white Rubicon Unlimited, and my wife loves it - no more getting hit in the back of the legs while loading groceries.

I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:

1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.

2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.

My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.

I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.

I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.

I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.

Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.

I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?


Yeah, the same kind of gas strut, but with a much lower force.
There are many kinds of strut end mounts, including pins that could be quickly removed with the doors.

[phillips_kl]

Done, very easy, and works great! From order to install 3hrs, but I'm lucky because McMaster-Carr is only 12miles from home, and A Harbor Freight near also. Picked up some metal for the grill mod while I was there also.

McMaster-Carr parts:
9416K192 - Gas Shock 30LBS (should have gotten the 40LBS) 18.62"
9416K74 - 10mm Black Steel Ball Socket for M6 Thread
9512K93 - Ball Mount Hardware (longer for inside the rig)
9512K92 - Ball Mount Hardware (shorter for the tailgate)

Harbor Freight tools:
94100 - Blind Riveter
2972 - Nut Rivets

[JeepDawg]

Picked up some metal for the grill mod while I was there also.


What type of metal did you get? I am interested in doing that grill mod as well, but still shopping for the metal.

[neoxxis]

Anyone knows if we have access inside the "metal mount on the Jeep side", behind the tail light?
I'd like to reinforce this part because it flexes sometimes...
Maybe we can install a metal plate on the inside?
Maybe we can even use bolts rather than rivets...?

[tj-tigger]

Does anyone have a picture of the strut and how it sits along the door when the gate is closed? I am curious how much room is needed if I have the back packed full for a camping trip.

[JeepDawg]

Neoxxis - if you take off the taillight, you can gain access to that area. You may be able to reach your install location - or may not- there is a piece of sheetmetal in there that you have to contort your hand around. I was able to get one bolt and nut on, but not they other two. I also used JB weld (sanded area to bare metal first) and put two self cutting 1/4 inch screws in...mine is solid as a rock. I attached the tailgate piece the similarly - jb weld and self cutting screws....again, solid as a rock! In my opinion, the trick was to let the JB weld cure for 24 hrs and use a 30lb shock. I also repainted everything with touch up...looks factory!

[neoxxis]

Thanks! I'll look into it tomorrow... :thumbsup:

[Fermin]

That's why I used these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217ap1s.gif

They lock inside so they will never come off...

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/gfx/small/97217al1s.gif

Not like the ones that you "try to pop" like a rivet... They will come off I have no doubt!

10-4.

what is this called? It looks like it might be like a drywall anchor

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/images2/drywall%20anchor%20grouping%20cr.jpg

[Fermin]

crud, McMaster-Carr‏ isn't willing to send the shock to Alaska :cursing:

[neoxxis]

what is this called? It looks like it might be like a drywall anchor

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/images2/drywall%20anchor%20grouping%20cr.jpg

It's "rivet nuts", since they are rivets with threads inside...

Search "rivet nuts" on McMaster-Carr and you'll find a whole lot of different types...
The ones you quoted were installed more than a year ago and they're still holding!

[Edit: And no luck for me neither, they dont ship to Canada, even with a 50$ "bonus" :brows:... ]

[JeepDawg]

[Edit: And no luck for me neither, they dont ship to Canada, even with a 50$ "bonus" :brows:... ]

Did y'all try West Marine? Several members used their shocks as well.

[Fermin]

I put in an order with MSCDirect.com to see if they are willing to ship. I hope the $18 in postage for $19 in parts is good enough.:what?:

[JeepDawg]

Does anyone have a picture of the strut and how it sits along the door when the gate is closed? I am curious how much room is needed if I have the back packed full for a camping trip.

Go look at posts #22 and #25 on page #3 of this thread......mine looks exactly like that, It takes up very little room.

[Fermin]

MSCDirect.com is shipping to Alaska via UPS ground for a mere $18. Not sure if they will send to Canada :dontknow2:

[mudslingin44]

just completed mine and this is what the manufacture should of done.
IT CAME OUT GRREATTTT. Bought the tools at harbor freight

blind riveter tool 94100(16.99)
rivet nuts 2972(9.99)
stainless machine screws,variety pack 93811(4.99)

bought at west marine

angle brackets,black 8509077(12.99)
gas shock 30lb 8508863(25.99)

the angle brackets are 1 1/4 in wide.the bracket on the tailgate can be 1 1/4 but the one on the inside needs to be between 1 3/4 and 2 inches.2 inches would be best.i had to fab a spacer for the inside out of 3/16 steel,welded a couple of pieces together.here are a couple of pic of the final product.sorry i did not take pics of the install.

http://www.jk-forum.com/picture.php?albumid=1825&pictureid=12374
http://www.jk-forum.com/picture.php?albumid=1825&pictureid=12373
http://www.jk-forum.com/picture.php?albumid=1825&pictureid=12372
http://www.jk-forum.com/picture.php?albumid=1825&pictureid=12371

[R0ck]

I have a couple StrongArm 4291 shocks left over from my XJ that I never used. Could one of those be used for this setup, and then just purchase the other hardware from West Marine?

[Atl JK]

I need to do something like this Its the most annoying thing about my JK...

[Sndwave80]

Very nice. I am going to try this.

[Sndwave80]

Showed the wife all the work you have done. She gave the go ahead to try it- Thanks!

[phillips_kl]

Stopped by McMaster-Carr and swapped my 30LB for a 40LB and still not very happy. Anyone running a 50LB or higher? 40LB still doesn't seem to keep the gate open at 30-35 degree tilt.

[YellowToy]

.... 40LB still doesn't seem to keep the gate open at 30-35 degree tilt.

35 degrees? You might need a 2x4 at that angle.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

just completed mine and this is what the manufacture should of done.
IT CAME OUT GRREATTTT. Bought the tools at harbor freight

blind riveter tool 94100(16.99)
rivet nuts 2972(9.99)
stainless machine screws,variety pack 93811(4.99)

bought at west marine

angle brackets,black 8509077(12.99)
gas shock 30lb 8508863(25.99)

the angle brackets are 1 1/4 in wide.the bracket on the tailgate can be 1 1/4 but the one on the inside needs to be between 1 3/4 and 2 inches.2 inches would be best.i had to fab a spacer for the inside out of 3/16 steel,welded a couple of pieces together.here are a couple of pic of the final product.sorry i did not take pics of the install.


So this is a 20" gas shock extended? How about fully compressed? I have access to some dead gas shocks at bmw for mock up, but i need measurements!

Thanks!

[JeepDawg]

So this is a 20" gas shock extended? How about fully compressed? I have access to some dead gas shocks at bmw for mock up, but i need measurements!

Thanks!

Goody, It will compress to under 12" (I'd guess 11.25" or so). I have the balls that the strut attached to on 12" centers and it works great without being OVER compressed. :thumbsup:

[Hoovis]

I just wanted to throw out my two cents... If you are considering this, just order the Woods kit at Jeepswag. Originally, I was impatient and when I want something, I want it NOW. So I tried to locate the hardware locally to do it myself. Not only would I not be able to find easily the quality parts that Brett has to offer, but at best it would have saved only a few bucks.

Long story short, I recommend his kit. I could have made it work for maybe $20 less, but the parts I found were not nearly as solid or likely long lasting. His stuff not only comes with full instructions, but is likely far "beefier" with the enforcement brackets offered in his kit. They also come with full instructions, so no second guessing and the measurements are all done for you.

Lastly, I was too big an idiot to follow the directions correctly (which are clearly laid out). I had an issue getting the threaded inserts to seat properly, but Brett answered the phone promptly and was cordial enough to describe it for me with coutesy and clarity. He had it in the instructions correctly, but I misread it.

If you are considering this, he has worked out any tweaks and can save you a lot of time for just a few bucks more than dealing with the hassle of trying to find the parts yourself. (The ones I found were inferior anyway.)

Thanks Brett.

[Pygeum]

I just wanted to throw out my two cents... If you are considering this, just order the Woods kit at Jeepswag. Originally, I was impatient and when I want something, I want it NOW. So I tried to locate the hardware locally to do it myself. Not only would I not be able to find easily the quality parts that Brett has to offer, but at best it would have saved only a few bucks.

Long story short, I recommend his kit. I could have made it work for maybe $20 less, but the parts I found were not nearly as solid or likely long lasting. His stuff not only comes with full instructions, but is likely far "beefier" with the enforcement brackets offered in his kit. They also come with full instructions, so no second guessing and the measurements are all done for you.

If you are considering this, he has worked out any tweaks and can save you a lot of time for just a few bucks more than dealing with the hassle of trying to find the parts yourself. (The ones I found were inferior anyway.)

Thanks Brett.

I totally agree. I saw another member's attempt and figured I would go that route. After looking what goes into Wood's kit, and the support bar - I couldn't be happier.

[Combat Jump]

Yeah, the same kind of gas strut, but with a much lower force.
There are many kinds of strut end mounts, including pins that could be quickly removed with the doors.

I am still scratching my head over this one...

Has anyone made a front door hold open device? I have gone so far as to buy some short gas struts from MCS, but can't figure out how to mount them to hold the door open without getting in the way.

I also pulled the internal door stay-open springs from a car at the local wrecking yard and cut and welded them until they were useless. I have yet to cut into the door jams on my Rubicon.

Anyone have success here?

[Shortbuss]

Just buy the kit if you want a tailgate shock! I just did mine outside in the cold and snow. Took 30min looks great and it is very very easy! Works like a charm too!!

Thanks Jeepswag!!

[Rum Runner]

Could be worth looking for a door seal to go around the cut out preferably with extra lip on the inside so the mess could be incorporated inside the rubber seal. Would make it look better.
Good job though !.

Why it is not on as standard ?.
Its the car's main gripe....:clap: