SpudRacer
03-23-2007, 10:20 AM
The Blue Ox base plate (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=198) seems a stong solid design, and the included hardware and directions are first rate and very easy to follow. I take my time with everything, and it took me about 3 hours to install.
Begin by taking off the front plastic splash shield as per instructions. This is held on with plastic push in/screw in phillips screws. If you turn them while applying minimal pressure against the screw, most of them back out ok. If you push the screwdriver firmly against the screw, they'll just spin.
Once the shield is off, you have to remove the front bumper. This is also very straight forward, no tricks, just follow the directions. Once loose, you have to carefully PULL the fog light harness retainers off the back of the bumper. I do not recommend doing this if it is less than 50 degrees. I fear if the plastic it too cold (ie brittle) they may break. Mine all came out fine.
Next use a sawsall to cut off the ends of the metal framing as per instructions. My only suggestion is to apply 3-4 layers of masking tape in any areas that the blade may rub against while cutting to avoid marring the paint. Once both ends were cut, I used 240 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges, then used Eastwood's Underhood black spray paint to spray the cut ends. It looks factory cut when you're done.
Then you bolt on the baseplate which is also very straight forward. If yours turns out like mine, you;ll find that you scratch the freshly applied pain when forcing it into place. Cutting more metal would help avoid contact, but very hard to get a straight clean cut because you'd have to cut from the bottom, not the top.
DON'T FORGET RED LOCKTITE ON ALL MOUNTING BOLTS!!!
Once that's done, reinstall the front bumper. You can leave the plastic splash guard off, or you'll have to cut two grooves in it to reinstall it. I reinstalled mine, and all I can say is to go very slowly cutting the grooves to make it fit. Once you cut, you can't erase it if you cut in the wrong direction. I cut about 3/16" wide for the groove, and it looks terrific. GO SLOWLY, and test fit frequently to make sure the grooves line up well.
Once that is back on, drill a 1/2" hole directly behind where the electrical connector screws to the front of the baseplate, and run your wires through that hole. Install the connector, and you're done. I left a lot of spare wiring coiled up and zip tied behind the plastic spray guard so when I replace the front bumper, there is no chance I'll be short on wiring.
As for the wiring. There are many options, installing separate bulbs in the taillights and a separate wiring harness is one, using diodes as some have done is another. In my opinion, my soultion was by far the easiest and the best. I simply purchased a second JK trailer harness (my Rubi already had one installed from the factory). Pull out the left taillight assembly, and snap in the second harness, then route the wire out the bottom following the other harness. You can even snap the retainers into the factory holes to secure it. Then reinstall the taillight.
Once this is done, buy a 4-wire 25' trailer harness from Lowes which has the correct 4-wire end plug which plugs neatly into the end of the second (or first) harness you just installed. I tucked the 25' harness inside some 3/8" split loom and zip tied it to the rear brake lines along the left frame rail to get to the front. Routing from there is your choice.
I also installed a TOAD-Charge (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=442) under the hood utilizing the 12V stud under the power distribution/fuse block panel for +, and one of the two ground studs next to it for ground.
I finished last night at 9pm, and tested it behind the RV this morning. With the JK key turned to the first position and the 6-wire RV harness installed between the RV and the connector on the front of the JK at the base plate, this is what you get.
1. With parking lights on in the RV, the JK's tail lights, license plate light, and front marker lights all illuminate.
2. When using the brakes, both tail lights come on.
3. When using turn signals, only the rear tail lights flash, the fronts do not.
This set-up generates no errors in the computer, and works whether the key is off, in position #1, or position number two. Plus, it doesn't require installing diodes, drilling holes in your tail lights, and the benefit of having the front marker lights on increases your side visibility at night making it safer when stationary. Lastly, with the TOAD-Charge, you get the benefit of having the JK's battery receiving a constant charge while towing to prevent draining while extended towing. This is due to the fact that you have to leave the key turned to position #1 which energizes some of the JK's circuits, eventually draining the battery over time.
When the RV is shut off, the charging stops, and the isolator prevents the JK's battery from discharging into the RV battery bank. Once the JK's battery reaches full charge, it turns to a trickle charge only, to prevent overcharging the JK battery.
Sweet setup, once all the wiring is done!! I haven't tried hooking up the Adventa tow bar yet. May try that tonight. Will try to post pics then also.
Remember That the tow bar should sit level or angled upward toward the RV by no more than 4".
Tom
Bryson City, NC
Will try to post some pics at lunch today.
Tom Bryson CIty, NC
Begin by taking off the front plastic splash shield as per instructions. This is held on with plastic push in/screw in phillips screws. If you turn them while applying minimal pressure against the screw, most of them back out ok. If you push the screwdriver firmly against the screw, they'll just spin.
Once the shield is off, you have to remove the front bumper. This is also very straight forward, no tricks, just follow the directions. Once loose, you have to carefully PULL the fog light harness retainers off the back of the bumper. I do not recommend doing this if it is less than 50 degrees. I fear if the plastic it too cold (ie brittle) they may break. Mine all came out fine.
Next use a sawsall to cut off the ends of the metal framing as per instructions. My only suggestion is to apply 3-4 layers of masking tape in any areas that the blade may rub against while cutting to avoid marring the paint. Once both ends were cut, I used 240 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges, then used Eastwood's Underhood black spray paint to spray the cut ends. It looks factory cut when you're done.
Then you bolt on the baseplate which is also very straight forward. If yours turns out like mine, you;ll find that you scratch the freshly applied pain when forcing it into place. Cutting more metal would help avoid contact, but very hard to get a straight clean cut because you'd have to cut from the bottom, not the top.
DON'T FORGET RED LOCKTITE ON ALL MOUNTING BOLTS!!!
Once that's done, reinstall the front bumper. You can leave the plastic splash guard off, or you'll have to cut two grooves in it to reinstall it. I reinstalled mine, and all I can say is to go very slowly cutting the grooves to make it fit. Once you cut, you can't erase it if you cut in the wrong direction. I cut about 3/16" wide for the groove, and it looks terrific. GO SLOWLY, and test fit frequently to make sure the grooves line up well.
Once that is back on, drill a 1/2" hole directly behind where the electrical connector screws to the front of the baseplate, and run your wires through that hole. Install the connector, and you're done. I left a lot of spare wiring coiled up and zip tied behind the plastic spray guard so when I replace the front bumper, there is no chance I'll be short on wiring.
As for the wiring. There are many options, installing separate bulbs in the taillights and a separate wiring harness is one, using diodes as some have done is another. In my opinion, my soultion was by far the easiest and the best. I simply purchased a second JK trailer harness (my Rubi already had one installed from the factory). Pull out the left taillight assembly, and snap in the second harness, then route the wire out the bottom following the other harness. You can even snap the retainers into the factory holes to secure it. Then reinstall the taillight.
Once this is done, buy a 4-wire 25' trailer harness from Lowes which has the correct 4-wire end plug which plugs neatly into the end of the second (or first) harness you just installed. I tucked the 25' harness inside some 3/8" split loom and zip tied it to the rear brake lines along the left frame rail to get to the front. Routing from there is your choice.
I also installed a TOAD-Charge (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=442) under the hood utilizing the 12V stud under the power distribution/fuse block panel for +, and one of the two ground studs next to it for ground.
I finished last night at 9pm, and tested it behind the RV this morning. With the JK key turned to the first position and the 6-wire RV harness installed between the RV and the connector on the front of the JK at the base plate, this is what you get.
1. With parking lights on in the RV, the JK's tail lights, license plate light, and front marker lights all illuminate.
2. When using the brakes, both tail lights come on.
3. When using turn signals, only the rear tail lights flash, the fronts do not.
This set-up generates no errors in the computer, and works whether the key is off, in position #1, or position number two. Plus, it doesn't require installing diodes, drilling holes in your tail lights, and the benefit of having the front marker lights on increases your side visibility at night making it safer when stationary. Lastly, with the TOAD-Charge, you get the benefit of having the JK's battery receiving a constant charge while towing to prevent draining while extended towing. This is due to the fact that you have to leave the key turned to position #1 which energizes some of the JK's circuits, eventually draining the battery over time.
When the RV is shut off, the charging stops, and the isolator prevents the JK's battery from discharging into the RV battery bank. Once the JK's battery reaches full charge, it turns to a trickle charge only, to prevent overcharging the JK battery.
Sweet setup, once all the wiring is done!! I haven't tried hooking up the Adventa tow bar yet. May try that tonight. Will try to post pics then also.
Remember That the tow bar should sit level or angled upward toward the RV by no more than 4".
Tom
Bryson City, NC
Will try to post some pics at lunch today.
Tom Bryson CIty, NC