Hardtop hoist/storage write-up

[HG07JKRubi]

Well the temperature is warming up so it's that time of year to take the hardtop off on my 4door JK Rubicon. My goal was to create a hardtop hoist/storage system that was easy to use and could be done by one person. Here's how it went ...

I used a two step approach first lifting the top up to my garage ceiling using hoist bar and hand winch. Once the top was up to the ceiling I lowered it onto a suspended wood shelf.

Hoist Parts:
----------------
10' Channel Strut (Home Depot "SuperStrut" or B-Line B22 Channel; see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com) for catalog) (qty: 1)
5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com/) for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)
Channel nuts/bolts (qty: 9)
Channel end caps (qty: 3)
Channel washers (2-holes qty=3)
Channel washers (1-hole qty=1)
1/2" x 3" eye bolt (qty: 1)
Brake Winch (Dutton Lainson 800 lb brake winch - try Amazon, NorthernTool, Tractor Supply)
3/8" nylon rope (50' length)
2" Block and Tackle set (search google for "National 2" Block and Tackle") (qty: 1)
2" swivel pulley (qty: 1)
quick links (qty: 2)
lag screws (qty: 20 or so)
3/8" square U-bolts (3" inside width x 7.5" tall) (qty: 3)
3/8" vinyl tubing (qty: 2 feet)
36" slotted angle (qty: 2)
foam rubber pipe insulation ( 1 - 7' length)

Shelf Parts:
------------------
60" slotted angle (qty: 4)
1/2" x 6" eye bolts/washers/nuts (qty: 4)
safety snaps (qty: 8)
1/2" or thicker plywood (cut to 75"x48")
2"x3"x8' lumber (5 pieces)
5/16" grade chain (4 - 5' lengths depending ceiling height)

I used slotted angle screwed into the ceiling joist for support instead of using single eye bolts to connect the hoist pulley and shelf chains. This helped spread the weight of the load across several ceiling joists. This may have been overkill but I wanted it sturdy and safe.

Home Depot sells the Channel Strut I used for the hoist bar but sells very few fittings to connect the pieces to form the "T" so I ended up ordering the channel strut and fitting from a local electrical supply shop. First I built the Hoist Bar as shown below by cutting the 10' length into two pieces 44" and 68". I then connected the two pieces using the 5-hole T-gusset plate as shown below.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0003.jpg

then inserted the eye bolt using a channel nut. The nice thing about the channel nut is they can be loosened and easily slide along the channel which was helpful when finding the balance point of the hardtop. (on the 4-door hardtop the balance point for the eye bolt ended up being 20 1/4" from the T connection)
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0004.jpg

As you can see in the first image, the hooks used were made from U-bolts by cutting off one end and covering them in 3/8" vinyl tubing.

After wrapping the hoist bar in foam rubber pipe insulation to avoid scratching the top, the next step was to lay the hoist bar onto the hardtop and connect the hooks.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0018.jpg
Once the hooks are in place and tightened it's time to lower the rope and hoist the top. The brake winch made this task a lot easier: http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0009.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0006.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0023.jpg
Notice the chains that are hanging and pulled to the side...Once the top is raised I lower the chains and connect the shelf by hooking the chain to the eye bolts on the shelf one side at a time ...
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0024.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0025.jpg

Once the shelf was raised I lowered the top just a few inches onto the shelf.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0029.jpg

The shelf then makes a great storhttp://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/?action=view&current=IMG_0011.jpg%22%20target=%22_blank%22%3E%3 Cimg%20src=%22http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0011.jpgage spot for the Freedom Top panels as well ...
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0028.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0035.jpg

All in all I spend around $150 to build the hoist including the hand winch. The shelf was around another $90 for the wood and hardware. That's it, now the soft top is on and I'm ready for summer !!! :cool:
================================================== =======================

Edit 12/19/2008: Here's another picture of the setup without the top on it so you can get a better idea of how it's put together ... http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/HoistShelfDimensions.jpg

Edit 3/27/2009: Some additional close-up shots as requested ...
Notice the hook on the right below is longer than the other two. It was extended using a threaded coupler and a scrap piece of threaded rod that was cut from one of the other u-bolts. This longer hook is used on the rear of the hardtop.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0437.jpg

A close-up of the block and tackle set. I bought the "National 2" Block and Tackle set" from Tractor Supply and substituted the pulley hook with one that had a safety snap on it just to be safe.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0011a.jpg


http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0007a.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0006a.jpg

[kdubber]

Bravo! Veeerrryy impressive!!! :yup:

[Managain92]

Nice work. I built a T Bar, but have not hooked to the ceiling yet. Mine did not turn out as "clean" as yours but as effective. I need to get the hand winch. I like that.

I also like the chains and the board under to hold the other 2 peices. Fine job.

[RedRockJK]

Excellent writeup! Thanks for taking the time to post it.

[SabrToothSqrl]

welp, i'm impressed...

[JKFirefighter]

Nice job, I like the channel strut.

[foofighter]

now that's clever!

[AZCA jeeper]

Damn, where do you live. I wanna steal this idea. Very well done and looks like better quality than anything you can buy. BRAVO, BRAVO!!!

[MikeReo]

That looks awesome. My garage is more like an underground concrete dungeon. Has anyone come up with a clever way to store the hard top outdoors?

[possumface]

is your real name Wile E. Coyote :rotflmao1:

[JackMac4]

Why not just leave it on the hoist? Is it pretty unstable - or at least enough to justify keeping it on the platform?

Great idea though...may have to do this as well.

[Rob Riker]

I just completed my version of this lift, but didnt feel the need to use the deep channel. I also looked all over for those u bolts, but no one had them. So, I went to OSH, and just bought some threaded rod, put it in a vise, and heated it up where I wanted the bends. My first attempt was some rod from a trailer parts store, and damn it took awhile to get it to the temp to where it would bend. That when I bought the rod at OSH.

FOr the to front pick up locations, bend the rod at 1 inch from the end, and then 4 inches from that, and then cut off the long end at 6 inches tall.
For the back one, do the same thing, but cut it off at 8 inches tall. Make sure you leave a nut on the rod before cutting it. The nut will act like a deburring tool when you thread it off the rod.

I also thought of using the tube, but man do I love playing with plastic dip, I just dipped the rods, and used an old paint brush to dip into the can where the bent rods would not fit, and just kind gooped it on.

I also opted for a 12 volt winch mounted to the wall to lift the contraption. I found one at Harbor Freight Tools for 49 bucks. The only drawback is that I now have to mount a shelf with a 12 volt battery sitting on it. But until then, I just back the jeep in, hook up the leads to the battery in the jeep, and tadaaaaa.

I will post pics later tonight when I get home.

I will post pics real soon.

[ScooterS]

What do you do with your doors? I went to home depot a purchased 4 heavy duty rake/shovel racks & mouted the to my garage wall. The four doors hang out of the way and are off the ground.

[Rob Riker]

As I said, here is a similar version of the original. I purchase all the components from a electrical supply warehouse. Total cost for the build up was around 50 bucks (not including the hoist setup)

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0001.jpg
This is a 40 dollar hoist from Harbor Freigh Tools

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0002.jpg
I actually set 2 of these up, 1 for lifting the lid on the jeep, and another one inline, but further towards the front of my garage. The second one works well for when Im working on my quad (say changing my tires) The pully system allows you to pull a cotter pin, and run the cable to the another location.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0003.jpg
The shorter one (times 2) is for the pick points at the side of the lid, and the longer one is for the rear pick point.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0004.jpg
Just some close ups

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0005.jpg
Just some close ups

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0008.jpg

The whole setup.

[Rob Riker]

As I said, here is a similar version of the original. I purchase all the components from a electrical supply warehouse. Total cost for the build up was around 50 bucks (not including the hoist setup)

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0001.jpg
This is a 40 dollar hoist from Harbor Freigh Tools

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0002.jpg
I actually set 2 of these up, 1 for lifting the lid on the jeep, and another one inline, but further towards the front of my garage. The second one works well for when Im working on my quad (say changing my tires) The pully system allows you to pull a cotter pin, and run the cable to the another location.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0003.jpg
The shorter one (times 2) is for the pick points at the side of the lid, and the longer one is for the rear pick point.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0004.jpg
Just some close ups

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0005.jpg
Just some close ups

[Rob Riker]

A couple more pics
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0006.jpg

The whole setup
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w166/rriker67/Hoist0008.jpg

[AZToad]

Anyone know the weight of the top? And the panels?

Thinking of welding a setup very similar to those listed but definitely want to go electric (110V).

When we first took them off it seemed fairly light but saw an electric hoist rated at 220# for single cable and started looking for the specs on the top weights but haven't come across them yet.

Thanks

[HG07JKRubi]

Anyone know the weight of the top? And the panels?


The top is 95lbs. Not sure about the panels, I would guess 10lbs/each.

[AZToad]

Thanks - was that by measurement or did you actually find it written somewhere? Someone posted that the 2 door was 95# also.

Just wondering as I am very surprised that many of these little items are listed in the owners manual!

[DarkRenegade]

How does the hand winch brake work? Do you have to press a release lever or something, or can you just turn the lever the other way for a controlled lowering? If you let go of the handle does it lock? Or do you have to keep pressure on it with your hand? I just want to make sure it's easy and safe to lower.

I also noticed that most hand winches and even the electric winch in this post are supposed to be used for "horizontal use only." Has this caused a problem? Does it seem stable?

[HG07JKRubi]

How does the hand winch brake work? Do you have to press a release lever or something, or can you just turn the lever the other way for a controlled lowering? If you let go of the handle does it lock? Or do you have to keep pressure on it with your hand? I just want to make sure it's easy and safe to lower.

I also noticed that most hand winches and even the electric winch in this post are supposed to be used for "horizontal use only." Has this caused a problem? Does it seem stable?

The brake winch I used is specifically designed for overhead lifting unlike some of the horizontal only models you mentioned. When you are raising or lowering the top and let go of the handle it locks in place the load does not move. Very safe setup. Check the Dutton-Lainson Company for their product info and retail sites.

[AndyR]

Here's mine. It uses the Lange commercial hoist-a-top frame, with my old TJ 'boat winch' to lift it, and 'frame' to keep the top from rotating once hoisted.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7978/img1607smallsd7.jpg

Andy

[DarkRenegade]

I noticed you have the Lange. I just got it and am about to return it. Since you are using a different winch, I assume you also had problems with their cable puller?

Mine is totally unsafe when lowering, it ratchets fine and then all of a sudden without warning, will slip and freewheel a couple feet at a time — not a good thing! Luckily I never had the top on it.

[AndyR]

I noticed you have the Lange. I just got it and am about to return it. Since you are using a different winch, I assume you also had problems with their cable puller?

Mine is totally unsafe when lowering, it ratchets fine and then all of a sudden without warning, will slip and freewheel a couple feet at a time — not a good thing! Luckily I never had the top on it.

I didn't use the cable puller - unopened in its box. This is the hoist I had in place for my '04 Rubicon.

Andy

[DarkRenegade]

Keep it in the box! But seriously, could you tell me more about your setup? Where the winch is from, pulleys, support, etc?

Also, how did you get the Lange frame to fit across the width of your top? When I assembled mine according to their (poorly written) directions, it came up a few inches short. I can't get the other J-hook under the lip, it's not even close. They tell you to put both arms into the center T until they meet, but if you do this you come up short. I could spread them further apart, but I don't trust that, especially with the tiny screws holding it together. Do have a problem with this?

And yes, I used the matched pair of arms, not the rear arm.

[AndyR]

The winch is a 'boat trailer winch' (like seat belt webbing) and the pully is a boat guide pully - both from West Marine. They're lag bolted into a massive glulam beam in the garage.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1438/dsc01305smallmt7.jpg

I had to move each arm 0.5" out from the center of the T. The screws just prevent horizontal motion in the sleevce, they're not load bearing as such.

Andy

[DarkRenegade]

Cool, can somebody give me the specific model number and place of purchase for a hand winch with brake and is rated for VERTICAL lifting? Seems hard to come by.

Also, I just want to double check how these work... To raise, I obviously just crank it, and it locks when I stop it. To lower it, I assume I just slowly crank in the opposite direction, and the brake will control and hold it as I lower, and will hold it if I stop cranking, correct? If so — great! I just don't want to get into something where I have to click a release button to ratchet down one notch at a time — and certainly don't want to run the risk of freewheeling if the button gets stuck. (aka. Lange lift)

[HG07JKRubi]

Cool, can somebody give me the specific model number and place of purchase for a hand winch with brake and is rated for VERTICAL lifting? Seems hard to come by.

Also, I just want to double check how these work... To raise, I obviously just crank it, and it locks when I stop it. To lower it, I assume I just slowly crank in the opposite direction, and the brake will control and hold it as I lower, and will hold it if I stop cranking, correct? If so — great! I just don't want to get into something where I have to click a release button to ratchet down one notch at a time — and certainly don't want to run the risk of freewheeling if the button gets stuck. (aka. Lange lift)


Here's the one I bought (and is shown in my initial post). I bought it from Tractor Supply Co though, not sure if you have those around.

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200331205.htm

[Ground Pounder]

http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/Hard_Top_11.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/Hard_top_9.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/Hard_Top_8.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/Hard_Top_6.jpg
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/Hard_Top_3.jpg

[1963Duo]

This hoist is awsome !I am about to take delivery in 20 days of my Jeep Green sahara auto dual top here in Europe. I plan on making a hoist like this for the hard top. Does anybody have taken measurements of their top so i can start making plans for placing it in my small garage? (Hard top length X width X height) How long are these metal bars that form the T?
Thanks

[HG07JKRubi]

How long are these metal bars that form the T?
Thanks

My initial post in this thread mentions the measurments of the T-bars you will need for the hoist. Feel free to ask questions regarding this build, it's worked out real well for me.

[1963Duo]

Thnaks,
I have not had the chance to measure the height of the hard top so i ll know how much clearance i ll have above my head in my garage. Could you give me that measurement as well as the measurement of the lowest part of the set compared to the heigt of the ceiling?
Thanks again

[HG07JKRubi]

Thnaks,
I have not had the chance to measure the height of the hard top so i ll know how much clearance i ll have above my head in my garage. Could you give me that measurement as well as the measurement of the lowest part of the set compared to the heigt of the ceiling?
Thanks again

I have a 10' ceiling and the lowest point of my setup if probably 5'7" off the ground. I know because I'm 5'5" and I can walk under with just a little clearance. Sometimes it nice to be short. :D I could have probably raised the shelf higher manually by going up 1 chanin link at a time but due to the hoist pulleys etc I couldnt hoist it any higher than I did. You could always gain a few inches by not installing the shelf, I think that's really optional.

[1963Duo]

Thank you very much , that is what i needed.

[DROCK_IN_NC]

Ok. This is my first post.. :rotflmao1: Anyway, I purchased the manual Hoist-a-top setup before I found this killer forum. I need some experts to ring in on this. Is this thing really worth the $$ or do I go with a custom one? I have heard of the manual one slipping and that really worrys me.

[HG07JKRubi]

Ok. This is my first post.. :rotflmao1: Anyway, I purchased the manual Hoist-a-top setup before I found this killer forum. I need some experts to ring in on this. Is this thing really worth the $$ or do I go with a custom one? I have heard of the manual one slipping and that really worrys me.
Well you can save some money building your own and even build it as good if not better than Lange's. I can tell you if you use the right hand (brake) winch it will not slip. It's what the winch is designed for. (see the inital post for what I used). Good luck.

[HEK]

Well you can save some money building your own and even build it as good if not better than Lange's. I can tell you if you use the right hand (brake) winch it will not slip. It's what the winch is designed for. (see the inital post for what I used). Good luck.

Great set up, I just had my garaged finally wired and will steal your design, with a few alterations as I do not have a ceiling but an open "peak" with a center wall separating both sides.
Thanks for the pic of your ceiling.....:yup:

[mharper]

My garage has 12" ceilings so I build my hoist to pull the top above the open garage door.

Thanks for the write up, I did modify it a little for my application, but kept the same basic design, including the shelf.....

Great Thread....

Mike

[SFD1248]

Free Bump. This is too good.

[bmbl_b]

Amazing - very very clever

[jeepchick23]

We have a '07 Wrangler Sahara 4 door Unlimited with the dual top group...As the weather warms, we are eager to switch to the soft top. Problem is storage. We have extremely limited storage for the Freedom Hardtop and are wondering if anyone has stored their hard top on it's side or back to conserve storage space, without compromising it's structure.
I would absolutely LOVE to develop the pulley/storage system that many of you have rigged but I unfortunately do not have the room at the moment.
Help!

[jeeperjkjeeper]

Nice write up ...i will be making this for my garage while my jk is on order as it should be arriving in the summer

[[N]UGE]

We have a '07 Wrangler Sahara 4 door Unlimited with the dual top group...As the weather warms, we are eager to switch to the soft top. Problem is storage. We have extremely limited storage for the Freedom Hardtop and are wondering if anyone has stored their hard top on it's side or back to conserve storage space, without compromising it's structure.
I would absolutely LOVE to develop the pulley/storage system that many of you have rigged but I unfortunately do not have the room at the moment.
Help!

people on the forum have made dolly - like supports for the hardtop on the back window. Its not a problem for the hardtop. HOSS makes one but is a little pricey in my opinion.

[mountain man]

Great write up and I like everyone else's versions. But I have one question... how much time did you spend building it? I've been planning on making a similar lift now for a couple of months, just was wondering how much time I need to allot for the project.
thanks

[HG07JKRubi]

Great write up and I like everyone else's versions. But I have one question... how much time did you spend building it? I've been planning on making a similar lift now for a couple of months, just was wondering how much time I need to allot for the project.
thanks

Hard to say...I built a little bit at a time as I found the parts I needed. I would say you should be able to put it all together and get the top hoisted in a weekend. Some of the longer steps were mounting the double angles up into the ceiling joists. I used 3.5" lags and I remember that being a lot of work. Like I said in the first post it may have been overkill but I feel good about how solid it is. It's a real solid system and you should get years of easy removal and storage for the top so it's worth the effort. Just take your time and do it right, that's a lot of weight hanging overhead :eek2:

[[N]UGE]

i think your smart to always side on overkill with regards to saftey. the last thing you want is for a $4000 top to fall on your jeep. I'm going to build mine this weekend and i think it has cost me about 130 for all the parts. but mines also going to be beefed up and i spent some extra on carpet and things to make it look cleaner in the garage :)

[[N]UGE]

heres my version. Good for the hardtop in the summer and strong enough for many other things in the winter.

http://www.mikenugent.ca/jeep/winter16.jpg
http://www.mikenugent.ca/jeep/winter17.jpg
http://www.mikenugent.ca/jeep/winter18.jpg
http://www.mikenugent.ca/jeep/winter19.jpg
http://www.mikenugent.ca/jeep/winter20.jpg

[bwiencek]

Can you post up the balance point measurement (probably from the rear hook) as I'm thinking about building one but am thinking about using square tubing and welding it up...

[HG07JKRubi]

Can you post up the balance point measurement (probably from the rear hook) as I'm thinking about building one but am thinking about using square tubing and welding it up...

Sure, but I'm not sure the balance point for my setup will translate to the same balance point on yours if you use different matierial that may weigh more/less than the channel strut.

[whpony96]

OK went to Home Depot and purchased everything on the list from the original post and the total cost was $250.

Bought the cable hand winch from Harbor Freight for $30.

I not sure how the original post states $150 but I didn't add any extras at all. :thinking: Only thing I can think of is he might of had some of the bolts and nuts handy. I had to purchase everything.

[HG07JKRubi]

OK went to Home Depot and purchased everything on the list from the original post and the total cost was $250.

Bought the cable hand winch from Harbor Freight for $30.

I not sure how the original post states $150 but I didn't add any extras at all. :thinking: Only thing I can think of is he might of had some of the bolts and nuts handy. I had to purchase everything.

Actually I spent about the same as you, $240 as the OP states and bought everything new. Did you buy the shelf material and hardware in that $250? Post pics when you're complete! If the weather would ever warm up I could actually use the thing and get the top off!!!

[def9112]

That hard top lift is awesome

thanks for the pics and info

[whpony96]

OK here's mine!

I can tell you this it will take you longer to walk Home Depot and find everything than it will to put it all together! :hmm:Finding the hooks was a PITA!:cursing:

I ended up using a 3" 3/8 bolt and a 3" 3/8 U clamp and used a 3/8 coupler nut to put it all together. And it worked well! The coupler nuts in Home Depot are located below the 10' Channel Strut in wood bins along with the channel strut spring nuts.

Oh and the really cool thing is the winch handle has a nut right in the center so I can use my Ryobi Cordless Drill to raise and lower the winch!:yup:

http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7825&d=1207792862
http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7826&d=1207792869
http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7827&d=1207792877
http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7828&d=1207792883

[[N]UGE]

nice work. yours look really clean as well.

[whpony96]

Thanks! I am happy with the way it came out.. When you have the hard top on the JK you and use the platform for a party table to serve food on in the garage!

[HG07JKRubi]

I actually use the platform to store the soft top, windows and hardware in the winter... then hoist it up and out of the way.

[[N]UGE]

I actually use the platform to store the soft top, windows and hardware in the winter... then hoist it up and out of the way.

same here. works great for that

[bobzinger]

I think I'll be doing this at the end of the week. I've got a couple days off from work. I'm not very handy so here's hoping for the best! :)

[[N]UGE]

I think I'll be doing this at the end of the week. I've got a couple days off from work. I'm not very handy so here's hoping for the best! :)

its not too hard to do. And there are so many pics you can use as reference. good luck!

[SASQUATCH]

Ingenious, was looking for a way to stow everything above my wifes hood and back into remove/replace the hardtop, great work!

[bobzinger]

What's the easiest way to find the balance point? On the channel strut, if I move it one hole forward, it tips back; one hole back and it tips forward.

As for the hooks, how do you have yours in place? Do you have to remove the one in back and put it on every time? On the hooks, do you have the nuts tightened down?

I'll have more time to play tomorrow but, right now, I'm not liking it. :thinking:

[HG07JKRubi]

What's the easiest way to find the balance point? On the channel strut, if I move it one hole forward, it tips back; one hole back and it tips forward.

As for the hooks, how do you have yours in place? Do you have to remove the one in back and put it on every time? On the hooks, do you have the nuts tightened down?

I'll have more time to play tomorrow but, right now, I'm not liking it. :thinking:

I hear ya bobzinger, these are good questions that aren't obvious from the pictures in the write-up. As far as the balance point you should be using a channel nuts for two reasons on the T-gusset and eye bolt connections ...

1. These can be tightened anywhere along the channel without having to go all the way through the holes on the opposite side of the channel. They literally slide along the channel.

2. the bolts won't protrude through the other side of the channel which would easily scratch your top. See this picture below for an example of a channel nut used on the T-gusset plate... I measured the balance point on mine and the eye bolt ends up 20 1/4" from the T connection which may or may not be lined up with one of the holes in the channel. Click HERE (http://www.b-line.com/pdf/catalogs/ProductInformation/SS08-PDF-WebPI/CNH-SpringNut.pdf) for the channel nut, I actually got mine in bags of 5 at Home Depot.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0005.jpg

And as far as testing the balance point for the first time, I just had the top on the ground and lifted it slightly to see how it was balanced until I got it right ...
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0001.jpg

Also you can see below how the T-bar lays flush on the top since there are no bolts coming through the bottom of the bar:
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0002.jpg

As far as the hooks go, they are all removed from the t-bar at first. First lay the T-Bar on the roof (make sure it's wrapped in foam insulation so you don't scratch the top). Then insert the hooks through the channel holes and install the washers and nut on each hook. You can hand tighten or tighten with a wrench, you just want them tight enough so the hook doesn't spin out of place. See picture below of hook installation.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0018.jpg

I hope this helps...let me know if you have any further questions and let me know how it turns out.

[bobzinger]

That helps TREMENDOUSLY! I don't have channel nuts/bolts so I'm limited to where the holes are. I'll make a trip to HD tomorrow to pick those up. Good to know that you remove the bolts when not in use from the t-bar.

Where did you find the washer-type fitting that sits at the ends of the t-bars? You have the big J-bar and then a second bolt that looks to hold that in place. Where did you get that rectangular piece so that the bolts don't go through the channel? I tried using angle-iron that I cut in half, but that isn't quite working out. Did you machine them yourself?

Thanks for all the help! I plan on buttoning this up tomorrow and finally giving Leslie a good scrubbing and full detail. She hasn't had a good washing yet this spring and is in need of one!

[DTGREY]

This was an excellent write up. It only took me a day to build and install since the difficult part of finding the parts was done in this write up. I did do a few things different. I used 1/2" U-Bolts and I also used 2 - 5 lb weight plates as a counter weight. The weights are dropped on a piece of 1" OD pipe that is bolted to the "T". This balances the "T" as it is raised and lowered without the top. I remove the counter weights before I raise the top. I also used the same type channel on the ceiling (not as deep as for the "T") with swing set bolts to hang the top once it has been lifted. Thanks again for the original write up. Your leg worked saved all the time.

[Battscrew]

Just out of curiosity, what type of floor to ceiling height do you need to make this work? Where you still get the front end under?

[HG07JKRubi]

Where did you find the washer-type fitting that sits at the ends of the t-bars? You have the big J-bar and then a second bolt that looks to hold that in place. Where did you get that rectangular piece so that the bolts don't go through the channel? I tried using angle-iron that I cut in half, but that isn't quite working out. Did you machine them yourself?

These large washers are also at Home Depot near the channel strut (electrical section). You can permanently mount those to the T-bar at each of the hook locations using channel nuts as well. Then use the open hole of the washers to install/remove the hooks as needed. Home Depot sells these 2-hole and 1-hole washers for the channel strut. I used a 1-hole washer for the eye bolt. Don't forget to post pics !!!

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0002_zoom.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

Just out of curiosity, what type of floor to ceiling height do you need to make this work? Where you still get the front end under?

I have a 10' ceiling in my garage but don't see any reason why it wouldn't work with a 9' ceiling as well.

[bobzinger]

Its complete!!! With the right pieces of hardware, its amazing how things work!

I'll post pictures of the top on the hoist tomorrow. But follow the link here and you'll see some of the pics.

Thanks for the excellent write-up and for all the answers to my questions! Thank you.


picasaweb.google.com/bob.squire/JeepHoist

[Newtybar]

Finished my yesterday night...

Thanks for the write up!

http://bamsucka.com/images/jeep/IMGP1052.JPG
http://bamsucka.com/images/jeep/IMGP1053.JPG

I'm not done yet...ran out of ratchet straps for the 2x4. I just figure some added support couldnt hurt....just remove the latch on one side of the 2x4... pull it off and lower it down.

[Eracer76]

Wow, great minds think alike...:)
I built pretty much the same hoist system about the same time this write up was posted, without even seeing it :D

I did some things a little different, but its pretty much the same design.
Its been working great for a year now, I use it all the time and never use my soft top except for wheeling.

I have a cordless drill with a torx bit to zip out the bolts and I can pull the complete hard top off in two minutes... much quicker then removing windows and folding the big 4 door soft top, and I dont have the ugly door frames still on the Jeep :)


I mounted a 2000 lbs Harbor Freight 12v winch in the attic hooked to an old car battery that I had laying around, its being charged by a little 12v charger from an old "Power Wheels" toy, whenever the garage lights are on :)

I opted to use a ratchet strap bolted to the uni-strut for the rear support, it goes through the rear window opening and hooks into a hole I drill inside the tops channel. I have the strap set to just the right length so I dont ever need to fool with the ratchet part. I did it this way so I can keep my rear window closed, which allows me to pull the top tight to the ceiling for more clearance. I can walk under the top (Im 6'3") or park the Jeep under it (backed in with the soft top on) if I ever need to.

The side hooks are big U-bolts with one side cut off, then I slid some rubber hose over them. They are also cut and adjusted just right so I dont have to fool with removing them. They are just loose enough that I can rotate them under the top and lift away.

Like I said, the whole process only takes me two minutes to remove the complete top :)

Then I cut some 2x4's that lay inside the top to store my front panels inside the top ;)

The whole project only cost me about $120 including the winch :D

Here are some pics of mine.....
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01913.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01914.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01915.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01917.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01918.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01919.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01922.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01923.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/LSTracer/hard%20top%20hoist/DSC01924.jpg

[troyboy]

Wow, great minds think alike...:)
I built pretty much the same hoist system about the same time this write up was posted, with out even seeing it :D



Very Nice, I like how you can keep your rear window down and that the pulley goes right into the ceiling. :2thumbs:

[dphanson]

This whole system is just great - thanks to everyone for posting their work! I've picked up most everything to build my own - hardware from HD - winch from Northern Hydraulics - but one part is missing - the eye bolt that makes everything work! I know the first post mentioned having to order this from an electrical supply shop, as it isn't available at HD. Does this eye bolt screw directly into a channel nut? Is there another solution that can be found (without having the shaft of the eye bolt protrude below the channel strut)? Also related to this - obviously the eye bolt/ channel nut is one point where there is maximal stress in the entire system - is a channel nut / eye bolt sufficiently strong as to always be trusted under this stress? Again, thanks very much to everyone for the info here!

[DTGREY]

I measured 9' 8" from floor to ceiling. As you can see from the pics there is plently of room to drive the front of you jeep under he top. I will barely clear the rear of the jeep.

[HG07JKRubi]

but one part is missing - the eye bolt that makes everything work! I know the first post mentioned having to order this from an electrical supply shop, as it isn't available at HD. Does this eye bolt screw directly into a channel nut?

The eye bolt can be purchased at HD as well (or any other hardware store). Just have a channel nut handy and make sure it fits with the eye bolt and also make sure the bolt is short enough to not protrude through the bottom of the channel.

[bobzinger]

Here are my pictures as promised. You'll notice in the first picture that the hoist is unbalanced L to R but is in good shape front to back. Any ideas on what I should do to balance L to R. The only other thing that I'm going to do is to get a longer U-bolt for the back... putting that one on is a little tough.

http://my.project-jk.com/data/1046/medium/hoist_weekend_010_Medium_.jpg

http://my.project-jk.com/data/1046/medium/hoist_weekend_011_Medium_.jpg

[dphanson]

The eye bolt can be purchased at HD as well (or any other hardware store). Just have a channel nut handy and make sure it fits with the eye bolt and also make sure the bolt is short enough to not protrude through the bottom of the channel.
Thanks HG97TJ. I hadn't appreciated that a standard eye bolt would thread into the channel nut - back to HD to find one (also already have the square washer for the channel). Following up on the other point, given that the eye bolt is held only by the channel nut, any feelings on the overall strength of this single connection point for the hoist? One option I thought may work is to put two eye bolts/channel nuts in the channel and rig two ropes/cables back through the pulley system just to be safe. This would also remove the need to find a balance point for the single connection.

[SASQUATCH]

This was an excellent write up. It only took me a day to build and install since the difficult part of finding the parts was done in this write up. I did do a few things different. I used 1/2" U-Bolts and I also used 2 - 5 lb weight plates as a counter weight. The weights are dropped on a piece of 1" OD pipe that is bolted to the "T". This balances the "T" as it is raised and lowered without the top. I remove the counter weights before I raise the top. I also used the same type channel on the ceiling (not as deep as for the "T") with swing set bolts to hang the top once it has been lifted. Thanks again for the original write up. Your leg worked saved all the time.

very clean setup, nice work.

[[N]UGE]

i like the green carpet!

[bwiencek]

Here are my pictures as promised. You'll notice in the first picture that the hoist is unbalanced L to R but is in good shape front to back. Any ideas on what I should do to balance L to R.

Loosen the bolts and move the bottom leg of the "T" to one side (the section that holds the back window)...

[bobzinger]

I'll give that a try...

I am going to get a longer U-bolt for the back. I'm having trouble with that bolt trying to put it in each time...

[YellowToy]

Hard to say...I built a little bit at a time as I found the parts I needed. I would say you should be able to put it all together and get the top hoisted in a weekend. Some of the longer steps were mounting the double angles up into the ceiling joists. I used 3.5" lags and I remember that being a lot of work. Like I said in the first post it may have been overkill but I feel good about how solid it is. It's a real solid system and you should get years of easy removal and storage for the top so it's worth the effort. Just take your time and do it right, that's a lot of weight hanging overhead :eek2:


When I was trying to hang my hardware I kept twisting the 1/4 inch lags, even pre-drilling. I guess the lumber was very dry and hard.

So, I ran the calculations for #10 screws. A 1.5 inch screw has a rated load of about 150lbs. (assuming you pre-drill the holes), using a factor of safety of 5. So, the channel I installed (I put in a roller channel so I can slide it back onto a shelf) has at least 2 screws supporting at all times.

[Battscrew]

When I was trying to hang my hardware I kept twisting the 1/4 inch lags, even pre-drilling. I guess the lumber was very dry and hard.

So, I ran the calculations for #10 screws. A 1.5 inch screw has a rated load of about 150lbs. (assuming you pre-drill the holes), using a factor of safety of 5. So, the channel I installed (I put in a roller channel so I can slide it back onto a shelf) has at least 2 screws supporting at all times.

Can you post a pic of the roller channel set up?

Thanks!!

[Huklbery]

Thanks to our excellent inventor and correspondent from Pottstown, who unfailingly replied to my questions asking for more detail of his channel strut hoist, I finished mine last weekend. Unlike most of the others in this thread, my JK is a 2-door with a Freedom Top, so it doesn't extend forward of the soundbar with the panels removed. This requires the top to be lifted a few inches manually before the hooks (or any lifting device, for that matter) to be inserted.

The good news, hoever, is that there is a lovely wide lip molded into the top for the front hooks to grab -- the perfect width, in fact. I employed a couple of modifications from the original, notably the use of a turnbuckle for mounting the rear hook to the bar. This allows additional length while enabling the hook to be easily turned to either side for inserting or removing it.

To save weight, I eliminated the plywood and went to 2x4s from 2x3s to return the rigidity. (I think that saved weight.) My garage ceiling trusses are heavy but are mounted 24" on center rather than 16", so the 5' angles that hold the shelf are held in only by 3 lag screws each.

The design of my garage allowed me to mount my winch to stairs leading to the storage area and through-bolt it to the stringer. The winch housing is more than strong enough to accept this adaption given the fact that the weight of the hardtop is well below its rated capability.

Finally, I adapted the same essential design for a soft-top hoist. I find the soft top much more difficult and aggravating to install and remove than the hardtop because the bow-ends wander all over creation looking for painted surfaces to scratch until they are fastened to the bar. The hoist holds the top at the correct height for installation and removal.

Again, my gratitude to Howie, who not only generously helped me with this, but also with his take on the tailgate strut -- one of the best and most sensible mods for a JK owner.

[Jesuswon1]

Thanks to our excellent inventor and correspondent from Pottstown, who unfailingly replied to my questions asking for more detail of his channel strut hoist, I finished mine last weekend. Unlike most of the others in this thread, my JK is a 2-door with a Freedom Top, so it doesn't extend forward of the soundbar with the panels removed. This requires the top to be lifted a few inches manually before the hooks (or any lifting device, for that matter) to be inserted.

The good news, hoever, is that there is a lovely wide lip molded into the top for the front hooks to grab -- the perfect width, in fact. I employed a couple of modifications from the original, notably the use of a turnbuckle for mounting the rear hook to the bar. This allows additional length while enabling the hook to be easily turned to either side for inserting or removing it.

To save weight, I eliminated the plywood and went to 2x4s from 2x3s to return the rigidity. (I think that saved weight.) My garage ceiling trusses are heavy but are mounted 24" on center rather than 16", so the 5' angles that hold the shelf are held in only by 3 lag screws each.

The design of my garage allowed me to mount my winch to stairs leading to the storage area and through-bolt it to the stringer. The winch housing is more than strong enough to accept this adaption given the fact that the weight of the hardtop is well below its rated capability.

Finally, I adapted the same essential design for a soft-top hoist. I find the soft top much more difficult and aggravating to install and remove than the hardtop because the bow-ends wander all over creation looking for painted surfaces to scratch until they are fastened to the bar. The hoist holds the top at the correct height for installation and removal.

Again, my gratitude to Howie, who not only generously helped me with this, but also with his take on the tailgate strut -- one of the best and most sensible mods for a JK owner.

Nice talk with all the technical jargon but...
:worthless:
Please post some pics of your modifications and the installed hoist in your garage... We all know "a Picture is worth..."

[Huklbery]

Nice talk with all the technical jargon but...
:worthless:
Please post some pics of your modifications and the installed hoist in your garage... We all know "a Picture is worth..."
So you feel that all this "technical jargon" makes my tip of the hat to a bright and generous contributor to this forum " worthless" without "pics?"

Shame on me, but I want to make this right, so if you pay close attention to the following, you may be able to comprehend it, even if like me, you lack an advanced engineering background:

A 2x4 is a board that is wider than a 2x3 board.

Stairs are things you climb up if you want to go upstairs, or walk down if you want to go downstairs, and stringers are the things that you see from the side that the stair treads and sometimes a handrail (so called because it it is long and straight like a rail and you grasp it with your hand) are attached to.

A soft top is like a hardtop only, well, it's softer.

Ironically, I attached three photos to my post. I can't account for what happened to them. But at this point, I'll challenge you to re-read the "technical jargon" and if you still feel it's "worthless" to you, read it over as many times as it takes for you to understand it.

But if you only understand the part about how I'm thanking the guy who started this whole thing, then you understand the most important part.

[dphanson]

When I was trying to hang my hardware I kept twisting the 1/4 inch lags, even pre-drilling. I guess the lumber was very dry and hard.

So, I ran the calculations for #10 screws. A 1.5 inch screw has a rated load of about 150lbs. (assuming you pre-drill the holes), using a factor of safety of 5. So, the channel I installed (I put in a roller channel so I can slide it back onto a shelf) has at least 2 screws supporting at all times.

I'd like to know more about this roller channel also - a picture would be great. Was this like a garage door roller channel (vertical roller) or the kind used for a large sliding door? Where did you get the roller channel? How is the pulley system attached to the roller? I'd really like to do a similar sort of thing where the hoist is used to lift the top, but then slid back along the channel to a wall-mounted shelf. Thanks!

[I Drill]

nice write up. One of the best things about owning a Jeep is the ability to take the top off. I just took mine off yesterday and have a similar storage solution.

[HG07JKRubi]

Thanks for the nice words Huklbery. I'm glad it worked out for you. I'd be interested to see pictures of how you made it work for the 2-door top.

Again, my gratitude to Howie, who not only generously helped me with this, but also with his take on the tailgate strut -- one of the best and most sensible mods for a JK owner.

[Huklbery]

Thanks for the nice words Huklbery. I'm glad it worked out for you. I'd be interested to see pictures of how you made it work for the 2-door top.

The nice words were the least I could do to thank you.

I THINK I've attached a photo showing one of the front hooks in position under the wide lip that's molded into the 2-door hardtop. I'm having trouble getting my photos compressed enough to meet this forum's requirements -- I even emailed them to myself so that Outlook Express would compress them, then tried to upload those versions. I'll keep looking for a workaround on that issue. I don't have any photo processing software on my PC these days.

[SASQUATCH]

my wife and I love this setup but she wants a 4-dr Rubi...so now we're trying to figure out how we'll hang these and pull into the garage, side by side....

[YellowToy]

I'd like to know more about this roller channel also - a picture would be great. Was this like a garage door roller channel (vertical roller) or the kind used for a large sliding door? Where did you get the roller channel? How is the pulley system attached to the roller? I'd really like to do a similar sort of thing where the hoist is used to lift the top, but then slid back along the channel to a wall-mounted shelf. Thanks!

Here's a few pics. It's actually called a Box Rail. I got it at Tractor Supply Company

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_48942_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

I put two rails in because I didn't know the weight at the time (95 lbs). One would channel would probably work, but as an engineer, I like safety factors.

The #10 screws are spaced at 12 inches. You can drill through the channel with a normal hand drill & metal bit. To make it easier, drill a small pilot hole first, then a larger hole for the screw. Please make sure you put a washer on the screw.

I plan on installing a small beam between the two rollers, and attach an electric hoist. Then I will build the lift frame described by others. The chain fall & cable puller pictured was not particularly effective, especially the puller.

I also built a wood shelf to set the top onto. I didn't like the idea of an indefinitely suspended load.

As for dimensions, my garage is 20 feet deep. The shelf is 4'x8' & is 43 inches from the ceiling. I would recommend another 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling if you can manage, as it's a tight fit to get the roof to the shelf, but I had an existing storage cabinet I wanted under the shelf.

The spacing on the shelf support columns (2x3's) is wide enough so the nose of my Tacoma can get under the shelf (I have to do this to close the garage door). The JK4DR can fit without getting under the shelf & still close the garage door.

UPDATE-------
I was in the local Lowes yesterday. They have the same channel & rail system a few bucks cheaper. They did not carry this in the Lowes closer to my house, so you may get it there depending on the size of the store.

UPDATE 5-17-08-----------

Had a guy or two ask for picks of the final. Will get them up today.

[bobzinger]

The nice words were the least I could do to thank you.

I THINK I've attached a photo showing one of the front hooks in position under the wide lip that's molded into the 2-door hardtop. I'm having trouble getting my photos compressed enough to meet this forum's requirements -- I even emailed them to myself so that Outlook Express would compress them, then tried to upload those versions. I'll keep looking for a workaround on that issue. I don't have any photo processing software on my PC these days.

do a google search for XP PowerToy photo resize. Works great!

[dphanson]

Here's a few pics. It's actually called a Box Rail. I got it at Tractor Supply Company

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_48942_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

I put two rails in because I didn't know the weight at the time (95 lbs). One would channel would probably work, but as an engineer, I like safety factors.

The #10 screws are spaced at 12 inches. You can drill through the channel with a normal hand drill & metal bit. To make it easier, drill a small pilot hole first, then a larger hole for the screw. Please make sure you put a washer on the screw.

I plan on installing a small beam between the two rollers, and attach an electric hoist. Then I will build the lift frame described by others. The chain fall & cable puller pictured was not particularly effective, especially the puller.

I also built a wood shelf to set the top onto. I didn't like the idea of an indefinitely suspended load.

As for dimensions, my garage is 20 feet deep. The shelf is 4'x8' & is 43 inches from the ceiling. I would recommend another 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling if you can manage, as it's a tight fit to get the roof to the shelf, but I had an existing storage cabinet I wanted under the shelf.

The spacing on the shelf support columns (2x3's) is wide enough so the nose of my Tacoma can get under the shelf (I have to do this to close the garage door). The JK4DR can fit without getting under the shelf & still close the garage door.



Thanks YellowToy! Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks also for the TSC link - there is a TSC here in Rochester, MN, so I'll be stopping in there tomorrow to see if they have the channel. I like the idea of two parallel channels - use original T-bar with center eye bolt for hoist, and additional eye bolts on top of T to hook to these roller channels. Then just push everything back onto wall-mounted shelf. If I can get all the parts by this week, I'll be building this weekend and will post pics/results as it goes. Thanks again!:yup:

[Huklbery]

do a google search for XP PowerToy photo resize. Works great!

I guess it does work great! Thanks for the tip.

The attached photos show:
("Front hook") ...How the hooks cut down from U-bolts that Howie developed for his T-bar hoist nestle perfectly into the wide lip molded into the front edge of the 2-door Freedom Top. Once the hooks are tightened into position at the correct angle, it is virtually impossible for the top to slip to the left or right.
("Winch on stairs") ...The brake winch mounted to the stair stringer in my garage. The point here is that the relatively light load of the Freedom Top allows the winch to be through-bolted to a vertical surface by drilling holes in the side of the winch housing opposite the crank.
("Both hoists") ...The low-tech soft-top hoist I built in position in front of the hardtop hoist. All it is, is a board with an adjustable luggage strap at each end connected via pulleys with a line that can be pulled by hand. In time I will add either a lightweight brake winch or clamp-and-release pulleys (think venetian blinds here) to this device, so that it will hold the top at the correct height while the bows are being secured to the sport bar.

One additional tip for those who plan to build T-bar lifts from channel strut: Make sure to cut the horizonal piece to a length that features an odd number of holes. This will ensure that the gusset plate that connects the T will be balanced on a center hole. I didn't think of this when I took the guys at the Fastenal store up on their offer to cut it for me on their horizontal band saw, and I had to compensate for it later by adding a link and washers to the shorter end. (Yes, it is that sensitive to balance.)

[Rubidon]

Wow! this thing is awsome.:yup:

[butchucoyz]

Reading this thread gave me an idea on how I can remove my top on my own. I thought about hoisting the top from the ceiling but my garage is full of crap. So on to my idea. Instead of describing it, i'll let these images explain.

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image3.png

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image1.png

http://www.butchucoy.com/tophoiststorage/image2.png

This has not been built yet. I still need to think it over and learn how to weld. Any tips or improvements are welcome before I start the build.

I got the yj model from google 3d warehouse (creator Brian Carver ). Thanks Brian, hope you don't mind me posting your yj model here.

[Huklbery]

Butchucoyz:

Congratultions on a very clever design. From my experience with the ceiling-mounted hoist, my caution would be to make sure you have sufficient weight in the base (but I'm sure you're all over that issue). Once the top is free from the Jeep it can spin and/or swing, and the casters combined with the fact you'll be working alone might amplify that situation.

Before I invested in welding gear and an education, I'd visit a store that sells channel strut and fittings and see what's available to you. If you bolted it together instead of welding it, you'd also be able to disassemble it for winter storage. I got my hardware at a local Fastenal franchise.

[Huklbery]

Butchucoyz:

One other comment on your design: unless you remove the rear window before you lift the top, the need to keep it up, in the open position, is going to require a longer horizontal arm, which in turn will shift the weight forward and require even more compensating weight in the base. This isn't an issue with ceiling-mounted designs because there's no vertical post.

[YellowToy]

Butchucoyz:

One other comment on your design: unless you remove the rear window before you lift the top, the need to keep it up, in the open position, is going to require a longer horizontal arm, which in turn will shift the weight forward and require even more compensating weight in the base. This isn't an issue with ceiling-mounted designs because there's no vertical post.

FIRST... I think Butchucoyz should pull the pictures ASAP & have the idea patented, & I'm not kidding. I know if I were in the business, I would already be working on mock-ups to show to Quadratec, 4wd, etc.

I had though about a shop crane (engine hoist) from Harbor Freight, but none were tall enough to pick the top.

NEXT... I use the "Standard" unistrut T-Frame, but with ratchet straps that pull around the frame instead of the u-bolt hooks (saw the idea on somebody's post). That way I can close the back window. This would keep the arm to a minimum.

LAST... You don't have to worry about "Sufficient Weight in the Base." You're not relying on a counterweight mechanism. The base just has to be wide enough so the CG is never outside of the wheels. Now, rotating is always an issue with wire rope. But, you can easily add a tag line from the back of the T to the post.

[TeraFlex]

Looks like another needed weekend project for me!! Thanks!

[YellowToy]

OK, I had a request for updated pics...

Here are just the rails installed in the ceiling.
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/top_hoist_No_01.JPG


The #10 Hex-Head screws installed at 12 to 24 inches with washers, & pre-drilled the ceiling joists.
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/top_hoist_No_03.JPG

Full install with the "standard T-Frame," except I used straps instead of hooks to hold the top. I will need to file the ends so they don't cut the straps.
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/top_hoist_No_07.JPG

Here's the thing with the top. Note my shelf is very high, so I must tilt it a bit to get the back on the shelf.
http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/top_hoist_No_09.JPG

[flyer415]

Thanks for the updated pix. I like it very much.

[vandi]

I'm waiting on my JK to be built, to I'm trying to plan ahead, cause the first thing I want to do is take the hardtop off. I don't really have a garage that I can use since we use it for the "dog room" and it's full of my wood working junk. So, until I can get a real garage built, I'm going to have to use a tiny carport, and it's hardly considered a carport. The space is wide enough to back my YJ into to keep the elements out with folding the mirrors in.

Can someone provide width of a stock JK Unlimited Sahara, the expected the minimum distance from where the tailgate comes up to the front where the balance point for the eyehook and the minimum height that the top needs to be lifted to cover any obstructions (bars/sound bar, etc)

Thanks!

--Brian

[bigdeenus]

Looks great! Now all I need is a hard top... :drunk:

[vandi]

I must say....DANG this is turning out to be a big project. At least I'm having fun and using tools that I got a while ago and really haven't used. So far the trips have been:
2 to Home Depot which isn't really close...Sucks living in Lowe's Land
1 to Lowes...I live in the City that Lowes is moving the HQ to and this has to be the dirties/crapiest/worse selection store I have ever seen
1 to a Local Hardware store since I didn't want to go to Home Depot...
Oh and one to Harbor Freight...

As for time, it's been three nights worth and I think one more night to finish up. I decided to use a 110v hoist cause I'm just lazy....and thought it would be cool. I don't have a lot of wall space left in the garage to put a manual hoist.

I guess I'm on target to be able to take the top off this weekend...it's about time...The softtop is really in the way and I'd like to either get it out of JK or put up.

I think I'm also making more work for myself...Not really sure, just seems like it.

It has been lots of fun....looking forward to more JK projects, trying to figure out what's next!

[revolucion!]

this is by far the cleanest i've seen. i actually stumbled on this post before i purchased my JK as removing and storing the top was a quick concern of mine. great write up! i'll def do this when i get a bigger garage and have the clearance. for now she sits on the floor on skids...

[SB08JK]

I just wanted to personally thank you for your writeup on the JK hardtop hoist. I followed your instruction and part's list and it worked out perfectly. You saved me a lot of money and I thank you very much for that.

Happy Jeeping!:thumbsup:

[pearl-drum-man]

Good job!!

[Matador]

10187

Here is how I am storing mine. Greabbed the idea from someone else here. Works great and in the wintertime I can just raise it up and store my softtop on it with other things!:D

[JEEPJK]

How about attaching some aircraft hooks into the top itself? These loops clip on and off and are used in jetliners - each loop has a rating of 1000lbs if I recall. Iodize the 'channel' or track black, get some aluminum backer countersink it and screw to the top - use the "T" as built here and just hook in the loops..maybe make the "T" into box and have four hooks....with the loops off when the hardtop is on, the 'channel' attached to the roof would not be seen as it is pretty low profile..3/8inch thick...especially with a jeep with a 3inch lift and 35s ... :)

http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.php?photo=25476

http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.php?photo=25475

[Rubidon]

Have to bump, the long weekend is coming and this is a perfect project for the occasion.:yup:

[wrz0170]

Have to bump, the long weekend is coming and this is a perfect project for the occasion.:yup:

You are absolutely right! This is something both my wife and I have been looking for. We are a two jeep family. :thumbsup: She has a '07 Unlimited Sahara and I just got a 2dr Sahara about three weeks ago and lovin it.

We realized, even with mine how difficult it can be to take the hardtops off. This is good stuff.

[wrz0170]

Question on the hand brake winch. Which one is recommended and who would have the best prices? Thanks!

[Huklbery]

Question on the hand brake winch. Which one is recommended and who would have the best prices? Thanks!

My advice is to copy, paste and print out the parts list in the post by HG97TJ that launched this thread. If you take it to your local Fastenal franchise and run through it with the counter guy, you'll be able to order virtually everything for the hoist in one stop -- including the winch. Chain and lumber, etc., for the shelf are available in any building supply.

To your question on the brand of winch: I bought the same Dutton-Lainson winch that HG97TJ used, but the brand of the winch is not as important as its characteristics, i.e. a vertical-lifting capability and the braking feature (essentially, the ability to hold the weight automatically, and continue holding it until it is cranked down). Of course, it must also be rated for the weight of the top and the T-bar.

This is a neat project -- certainly one of the best and most useful detailed on this forum. Good luck with it.

[JK2be]

what a great write up...
I've had my jk for 2 months and finally decided to build this hoist since the Lange one gets such poor reviews.

I bought the pulleys, 3/8"x50' rope, slotted angle and lag bolts at OSH and it added up to $80 already.

Question:
How do I attach the pulley to the slotted angle?[B] The quick links I bought (rated for 500lb - can't remember the size) are too fat to go through the slotted angle's holes. Just get smaller ones? I'm concerned about intoducing a weak link. Also everything, including the pulley is marked "not for over head use".

Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of [B]just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?

Thanks.

[HG07JKRubi]

Question on the hand brake winch. Which one is recommended and who would have the best prices? Thanks!


I got one on Amazon recently for $44. Search their site for "Dutton-Lainson Brake Winch 800 lbs." And like Huklbery (http://jk-forum.com/member.php?u=6663) said, if you don't by this exact brand make sure you at least get a "brake winch" that's designed for overhead lifting. If you look at the pics in the original post you'll see in one of the steps that the winch is actually holding the weight of the hard top after it's been hoisted as the wood platform is being connected.

[HG07JKRubi]

Question:
How do I attach the pulley to the slotted angle?[b] The quick links I bought (rated for 500lb - can't remember the size) are too fat to go through the slotted angle's holes. Just get smaller ones? I'm concerned about intoducing a weak link. Also everything, including the pulley is marked "not for over head use".


You can get smaller ones. The ones I used fit just fine in the slotted angle holes and were still rated for a few hundred lbs. Or you can use the ones you have and just make the holes in the angle a little bigger by drilling it out a bit.


Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of [B]just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?

Thanks.

I considered straps when first designing this but I thought the channel strut would be stonger and would not sag/strectch as much allowing me to hoist the top as high as possible. You can buy the channel strut at Home Depot (or any local Electrical Supply shop) along with some of the channel hardware. As far as cutting it, get a $10 hack saw from Home Depot it will cut right through it. The T-gusset plate I used would have to be special ordered as Home Depot does not carry them. Find a local dealer of either "B-Line" (part #B532) http://www.b-line.com/product/PDFLibrary/strutsystems/index.htm or "Superstrut" (part #AB-261) and look in their catalog for this piece. I wouldn't compromise on this piece. I did a quick search on B-Line's site and found a few in CA.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

[Huklbery]

Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?

I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.

I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.

[YellowToy]

Also, instead of building the channel strut brace (since the T-gusset and L-connections are hard to find and I don't have a way of cutting the channel strut to size), I'm thinking of just using web-straps to attach the top to the pulley. Seems like it would be simple and lighter. Anyone tried that? Bad idea?

I considered using straps -- recovery straps, actually -- but I couldn't come up with a way to ensure that they wouldn't slip off and drop the top. This is particularly important because the top has a tendency to spin once it's liberated from the truck. In addition to getting the top as close to the ceiling as possible as HG97TJ points out, the T-Bar can be attached to the top securely AND it can be adjusted for the ideal front-rear balance point.

I bought the channel strut at my local Fastenal store, and the guys cut it for me on their horizontal band saw. However you cut it, make sure there's a full hole exactly in the center of the transverse length so that it balances left and right.

Cutting... I used a reciprocating saw.


Straps instead of Channel...

The problem with using web straps is the angle of the strap to the hook. Too acute an angle will increase the tension in the strap too much. A steeper angle & you lose your headspace.

For example, if you have a strap (sling) at a 45 degree angle then the tension in the angle is 1.44 times the weight on the sling. get that down to 5 degrees & it goes way up!

Also, here's a few tips....

Once you find your balance point, put a mark on the top with a silver permanent marker. This makes it easier to get the right spot every time.

I used a Harbor Freight 12v winch. Works great for temporary lifting (to put it on the shelf). I would not leave it unattended. Instead of keeping a battery around I use my charger/starter set to start & it has enough amps to operate the winch. I've seen some posts concerned with a winch slipping, but I have had no such problems. It's a 3000 lb winch with a pulley (6000 lbs) & it is lifting 95 lbs.

I put a pulley on winch now to slow the speed down & it works perfect.

[cletusthepipeman]

VERY VERY clean, and rugged

[WestKySahara]

:) Great minds think alike!!! :)

[YellowToy]

Actually, I've seen a thread that explained how to install roof rack rails on the top. I was thinking I could do that to haul a canoe & would be able to connect to the towers/rails.

I'm still using straps, but they are a bit of a pain. I may need to make/find the hooks as others have done. But, I can't lift it with my back glass up. So I'll have to come up with something different there.

How about attaching some aircraft hooks into the top itself? These loops clip on and off and are used in jetliners - each loop has a rating of 1000lbs if I recall. Iodize the 'channel' or track black, get some aluminum backer countersink it and screw to the top - use the "T" as built here and just hook in the loops..maybe make the "T" into box and have four hooks....with the loops off when the hardtop is on, the 'channel' attached to the roof would not be seen as it is pretty low profile..3/8inch thick...especially with a jeep with a 3inch lift and 35s ... :)

http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.php?photo=25476

http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.php?photo=25475

[christok21]

Great work. I was wondering though if you knew the actual weight of the 4 door hardtop. I'm in the process of building my own lift and want to make sure it's stong enough.

[bobzinger]

It's posted on one of the pages in the thread here, but its about 95lbs. of awkward weight.

[TBJK]

yeah it is really awkward i have pulled mine off by myself...not really sure how i did it but i got it off and back on in the same day. I would guess 95 is about right

[LSU-JK]

Bump...Im taking notes and burning up the printer..

[YellowToy]

Bump...Im taking notes and burning up the printer..

If you get up here to Shreveport drop me a line & you can check mine out. I'll probably be helping a friend build his in a couple weeks.

And the weight of the top is 95 lbs. I found it on the Jeep site before.

[sdhexpert]

Thought I'd post my pic's, maybe someone can get some ideas from my install of this great idea. Mine is not as pretty since I used some angle iron I had laying around. But it sure works good. Tractor Supply was a good source for parts.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh54/markmarriott/hardtop/IMG_6002.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh54/markmarriott/hardtop/IMG_5995.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh54/markmarriott/hardtop/IMG_5997.jpg

[doc307]

I need to do this as well, I guess I will be making a trip to home depot

[LifeTime]

First, thanks for the write-up and pics, they're a tremendous help. Now for a few questions:

Has anyone had a problem hanging the top with the T-Bar and hooks only (not resting it on a suspended platform)? Can it stay like this for a long period of time (6 months)?

Has anyone built this in a standard 8 foot high garage? If so, how much clearance is under it?

[Choppus]

Thats a very nice setup you have there.

[Hammerman]

Good idea and write up.

[kleinrider]

Don't know how I missed this thread.... Thanks for the info and write-up!:thumbsup:

[Hammerman]

Top comes off today for the first time.

[tibbar]

Thanks , Great write up

[Hammerman]

Hard top came off yesterday. the next project will be a rack and storage system. :sad2:

[RDakota]

Does anyone have the dimensions of the distance between the two side rails that hold the platform? And also the dimension of the location from front to back of the locations for the platform? Thanks.

[HG07JKRubi]

Does anyone have the dimensions of the distance between the two side rails that hold the platform? And also the dimension of the location from front to back of the locations for the platform? Thanks.

If I understand your question correctly you essentially want the distance between each of the eye bolts on top of the platform. (which transfers directly to the same distance between the hooks connected to the angle iron that is secured to the ceiling). Also the platform itself measures 75" x 48" as mentioned in the original post.

Hopefully this picture answers your question. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask about this build :D

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/HoistShelfDimensions.jpg

[RDakota]

Exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks alot for the help. I plan on putting a hoist and platform together over the next couple of weeks. I haven't decided on exactly what the platform will look like. I'll work that out in the next week or so. I do want it to hold the two freedom tops and the softop during the winter. Thanks again for your help!

[HG07JKRubi]

Exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks alot for the help. I plan on putting a hoist and platform together over the next couple of weeks. I haven't decided on exactly what the platform will look like. I'll work that out in the next week or so. I do want it to hold the two freedom tops and the softop during the winter. Thanks again for your help!

No problem. I corrected the measurements in the above picture as they were off a bit ...

[Kes]

Yep, I'm all over this. Taking measurements now. Thanks for an awesome write up.

I have a hoist for my old TJ, I wonder if I can modify it to work with the Unlimited JK.

K

[Soup]

Has anyone found a place online to order the T-plate (b-line.com part #B532 or Superstrut part #AB-261). All I could find is the L brackets.

[Optus]

go to your local electric store, the channel iron is commonly used for running wiring, thats where i got mine

[YellowToy]

Has anyone found a place online to order the T-plate (b-line.com part #B532 or Superstrut part #AB-261). All I could find is the L brackets.

I used the two-hole splice plate & have no problems. I keep an eye on the botlt that could pull through the end of the channel & make sure it's tight. I would go with the three-hole or four-hole splice plate if you can get them. More bolts to keep from sliding.

The T-shape is a bit overkill since there's no bending side-to-side at the connections.

WOW, I just looked at the B-Line site & saw all the stuff that is available. They have trolley wheels, gusset plates, etc. Now I've got some wheels turning.

[Soup]

I found the t-plate at fastenal dot com for $11 bucks. They will have it on monday and have locations all over the place. Also, I dipped my hooks in plasticote to protect the top. I just hope they are going to be long enough! I went down the street and was measuring my neighbors rubi (who I have not met yet) hoping he didn't chase off some stranger (me) with a glock cause I was by his jeep. You never know in South Florida!!!

[btomike]

here's mine.. it took a weekend to do because my power tools weren't here. cutting by hand really itsn't fun:sad2:
don't look at the date stamps, the camera was losing power and acting up

16901

16902

16903

16904

[HG07JKRubi]

16903

Thanks for sharing. I'm not sure what the rating is on that chain but it looks like you may want something a little more heavy duty :what?:

[btomike]

the chain is rated for like 300lbs.
it is playground chain, works great. held me up on the wood and i know i weight more than the the top.

[smbundy13]

has anyone made a hoist for a 2 door with the freedom top? it would be similar to the 4 door but still different.

just curious

thanks

[btomike]

has anyone made a hoist for a 2 door with the freedom top? it would be similar to the 4 door but still different.

just curious

thanks


i think i saw one on here somewhere. it is just like ours for the four door except it isn't in the shape of a T, just in the shape of an I. it hooked up in the back and front only since it doesn't have a hangover part for the rear passengers

[smbundy13]

that is what i was thinking about making. just wondering what everyone thought. thanks

[VocalMasta]

I like your design... The tracks are a great idea... Makes it an easy one man job.

[Filthy]

10 foot channel strut= 120 inches. 44 and 68 were not long enough for either piece. Are you sure thats the right length?

[jmat1980]

I have a bulk head in my garage that gives me very little clearance over the back of my jeep, and then over the front I obviously have the garage door.
I only need to lift the top enough to clear the Jeep, then I can pull out and lower the top onto the cart that I plan on building...

My question is what is the best way for me to hoist the top...I was thinking of a 12v hoist on the end of the bulkhead, the cable will be routed under a pully then go straight to another pully located over the Jeep...

There is a pic below, you can see the garage door opener, I plan on mounting the hoist oposite the opener on the other side of the bulk head...any better suggestions? (from the pic it looks like the bulk head goes back to the wall, but it actually stops about 2ft before the wall and goes back up to the ceiling)

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/jmat1980/GARAGE4.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/jmat1980/GARAGE11.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

10 foot channel strut= 120 inches. 44 and 68 were not long enough for either piece. Are you sure thats the right length?

Not sure I understand your question :thinking:. Cutting the channel strut to these measurements did not work for you?


front of Jeep

68"
------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
|
|
|
44"
|
|
|
|
|

back of Jeep



http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0006.jpg

[btomike]

you might want to just use 4 eye bolts and 4 cargo straps with ratches on them. this way you can just lift it alittle and wouldn't have to worry about a hoist or winch since you plan on making a cart.

[jmat1980]

you might want to just use 4 eye bolts and 4 cargo straps with ratches on them. this way you can just lift it alittle and wouldn't have to worry about a hoist or winch since you plan on making a cart.

I thought about that, but lowering it all the way to the ground and then lifting it back up over the rear of the jeep will be a pain using 4 ratcheting straps...a hoist would make it much easier...

[YellowToy]

I thought about that, but lowering it all the way to the ground and then lifting it back up over the rear of the jeep will be a pain using 4 ratcheting straps...a hoist would make it much easier...

Yes, I did this the first time, before I built the T from strut. It is slow & does not feel safe/secure.

[doc307]

I ordered all my material today at our local fastenal. Can't wait to get this finished

[jmat1980]

I ordered all my material today at our local fastenal. Can't wait to get this finished

What did the whole thing (minus the shelf/shelf hardware) cost you from Fastenal?

[SaginawMike]

That's pretty slick. :thumbsup:
I did about the same thing with my canoe for storing it in the garage.
I still have the winch. The removable shelf is a great idea!!!

[doc307]

What did the whole thing (minus the shelf/shelf hardware) cost you from Fastenal?

I'll let you know tomorrow when I pick it up but it was around 150

[doc307]

Finally got around to finishing this project. I did drop right at $150 at fastenal and then a few bucks at lowes for some OSB and 2x4's. The JK barely fits underneath.

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr105/doc307/DSC05234.jpg

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr105/doc307/DSC05236.jpg

http://i474.photobucket.com/albums/rr105/doc307/DSC05238.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

Finally got around to finishing this project. I did drop right at $150 at fastenal and then a few bucks at lowes for some OSB and 2x4's. The JK barely fits underneath.

Looks good Doc !!! Nice Job :thumbsup:

[schmugboy]

This is another project I would like to do after I finish my extensive list.
Noticed that some people left the rear glass extended. Does this cause any problems with the hydraulic shocks/strut that hold it open for so long in an extended position. My only reference is my Dad's old belief that it wears them out, I don't know how that would be possible since extended or closed should not make a difference.

thanks

D

[HG07JKRubi]

Noticed that some people left the rear glass extended. Does this cause any problems with the hydraulic shocks/strut that hold it open for so long in an extended position. My only reference is my Dad's old belief that it wears them out, I don't know how that would be possible since extended or closed should not make a difference.

Has not been a problem for me so far :dontknow2: Once it's resting on the shelf you could always remove the rear hook and lower the glass.

[YellowToy]

This is another project I would like to do after I finish my extensive list.
Noticed that some people left the rear glass extended. Does this cause any problems with the hydraulic shocks/strut that hold it open for so long in an extended position. My only reference is my Dad's old belief that it wears them out, I don't know how that would be possible since extended or closed should not make a difference.

thanks

D

Just a common sense point of view... but I would think the extended strut would be less likely to go bad than a compressed one since it is "unloaded" (or at least less loaded).

[JKJeremy]

struts in storage b4 they ever make to the point of assembly are not kept compressed and one assumes are potentially stored for long periods of time in such a manner without issue....:wink:

[binggitkoboy]

where can i buy a hoist? brand name?

[YellowToy]

electric I would get at harbor freight.

you can get a hand winch with a reverse from Tractor Supply

[binggitkoboy]

electric I would get at harbor freight.

you can get a hand winch with a reverse from Tractor Supply

thanks appreciate it..... gotta order now.... im itching:clap:

[schmugboy]

All good points, so I am not going to worry about extended vs. compressed. And I'll put this on the list and see if I have room in my garage. Good post and nice work.

[jrock776]

Great write-up. I've got mine going together now (with an electric winch), just need a few more parts. I'm also working on a storage shelf on a track system so I can move it laterally for various garage needs.

[tunes]

I'm also working on a storage shelf on a track system so I can move it laterally for various garage needs.

Sounds interesting, I would love to be able to push mine back against the back wall when stored.
Please post pics when you've got it done,
thanks

[uofawildcats]

Well the temperature is warming up so it's that time of year to take the hardtop off on my 4door JK Rubicon. My goal was to create a hardtop hoist/storage system that was easy to use and could be done by one person. Here's how it went ...

I used a two step approach first lifting the top up to my garage ceiling using hoist bar and hand winch. Once the top was up to the ceiling I lowered it onto a suspended wood shelf.

Hoist Parts:
----------------
10' Channel Strut (Home Depot "SuperStrut" or B-Line B22 Channel; see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com) for catalog) (qty: 1)
5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com/) for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)
Channel nuts/bolts (qty: 9)
Channel end caps (qty: 3)
Channel washers (2-holes qty=3)
Channel washers (1-hole qty=1)
1/2" x 3" eye bolt (qty: 1)
brake winch
3/8" nylon rope (50' length)
2" pulley (block and tackle) (qty: 1)
2" swivel pulley (qty: 1)
quick links (qty: 2)
lag screws (qty: 20 or so)
3/8" square U-bolts (qty: 3)
3/8" vinyl tubing (qty: 2 feet)
36" slotted angle (qty: 2)
foam rubber pipe insulation ( 1 - 7' length)

Thanks for a great write-up. I just have one question. I went to Fastenal to order the parts and they weren't clear what size U-bolts you used. They have several different combinations of Inside Length (3"-5")/Thread Length (1 1/2" - 5 5/8")/Inside Width (2"-4"). Any idea which size you used?

Thanks

[HG07JKRubi]

Thanks for a great write-up. I just have one question. I went to Fastenal to order the parts and they weren't clear what size U-bolts you used. They have several different combinations of Inside Length (3"-5")/Thread Length (1 1/2" - 5 5/8")/Inside Width (2"-4"). Any idea which size you used?

Thanks

I will take some measurements at home later and post em up as soon as I can. But off the top of my head I think they were 3" inside width.

[charlope]

Don't Use the hooks that you would store a bike with. I made a top hoist system and the hooks made a nasty gash in the upper corner of the doors on the top.

Any recomendations on a different type of hook, I have the rest of the hoist setup.

[uofawildcats]

I will take some measurements at home later and post em up as soon as I can. But off the top of my head I think they were 3" inside width.

That would be very helpful.

Also, any idea where I can get the plastic end caps? Fastenal said they don't have them and Home Depot didn't have them either (according to the guy I talked to).

[HG07JKRubi]

I will take some measurements at home later and post em up as soon as I can. But off the top of my head I think they were 3" inside width.

The u-bolt width is in fact 3". The height of the u-bolt is 7.5". Also notice the hook on the right is extended using a threaded coupler and a scrap piece of threaded rod that was cut off one of the other u-bolts. This longer hook is used on the rear of the hardtop. Hope this helps !!! :D

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0437.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

That would be very helpful.

Also, any idea where I can get the plastic end caps? Fastenal said they don't have them and Home Depot didn't have them either (according to the guy I talked to).


Try Colonial Electric (http://www.colonialelectric.com/). Look in the B-Line catalog (mentioned in the first post) for the part number.

[uofawildcats]

Try Colonial Electric (http://www.colonialelectric.com/). Look in the B-Line catalog (mentioned in the first post) for the part number.

You've been a tremendous help. I think I am down to my last question for you. Any chance you could take a few pictures of the pulley apparatus up-close. I couldn't really tell by the pictures and I'm having a hard time visualizing which pulley goes right above the hoist, which one is closer to the wall, and also what fastener you are using to attach the rope to the eyehook on the channel.

Thanks again!

[HG07JKRubi]

You've been a tremendous help. I think I am down to my last question for you. Any chance you could take a few pictures of the pulley apparatus up-close. I couldn't really tell by the pictures and I'm having a hard time visualizing which pulley goes right above the hoist, which one is closer to the wall, and also what fastener you are using to attach the rope to the eyehook on the channel.

Thanks again!

Check the first post... I added some close-up shots of the pulleys at the end of the write-up. :thumbsup:

[uofawildcats]

Check the first post... I added some close-up shots of the pulleys at the end of the write-up. :thumbsup:

Thanks for posting the close-ups of the pulleys. I think where I got confused is that the list of supplies says 1 each of the two types of pulleys, however, I saw three pulleys in the picture. However, I think you consider the block and tackle set of pulleys as a single item.

[uofawildcats]

I used a two step approach first lifting the top up to my garage ceiling using hoist bar and hand winch. Once the top was up to the ceiling I lowered it onto a suspended wood shelf.

Hoist Parts:
----------------
10' Channel Strut (Home Depot "SuperStrut" or B-Line B22 Channel; see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com) for catalog) (qty: 1)
5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com/) for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)
Channel nuts/bolts (qty: 9)
Channel end caps (qty: 3)
Channel washers (2-holes qty=3)
Channel washers (1-hole qty=1)
1/2" x 3" eye bolt (qty: 1)
brake winch
3/8" nylon rope (50' length)
2" Block and Tackle set (search google for "National 2" Block and Tackle") (qty: 1)
2" swivel pulley (qty: 1)
quick links (qty: 2)
lag screws (qty: 20 or so)
3/8" square U-bolts (3" inside width x 7.5" tall) (qty: 3)
3/8" vinyl tubing (qty: 2 feet)
36" slotted angle (qty: 2)
foam rubber pipe insulation ( 1 - 7' length)



Any reason why this slightly less expensive winch
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200330559_200330559 wouldn't work compared to this one http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331205_200331205?cm_sp=Customer%20 driven-_-Recently%20Viewed-_-Product%20Page?

[HG07JKRubi]

Any reason why this slightly less expensive winch
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200330559_200330559 wouldn't work compared to this one http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331205_200331205?cm_sp=Customer%20 driven-_-Recently%20Viewed-_-Product%20Page?


There is a BIG difference in those two winches. The brake winch is designed to hold the load overhead when you let go of the handle. Let go of the handle on the marine winch and Kaboom...you're hardtop just went crashing to the floor!!! :naw:

[uofawildcats]

There is a BIG difference in those two winches. The brake winch is designed to hold the load overhead when you let go of the handle. Let go of the handle on the marine winch and Kaboom...you're hardtop just went crashing to the floor!!! :naw:

I'm not very familiar with winches, but they both say they have automatic braking. Isn't that what holds the load in place overhead when you release the handle?

[Rubidon]

Hey! I made my own this week, and it worked great. I went with 1-1/4" square tube, weld, and different hooks. But I used your concept.
Thanx!

[HG07JKRubi]

I'm not very familiar with winches, but they both say they have automatic braking. Isn't that what holds the load in place overhead when you release the handle?

Amazon sells the Dutton Lainson 800lb Brake Winch for < $50.

Brake Winches
Brake Winches are suitable for many lifting and lowering applications. Self-locking brake winches provide additional safety and control for many lifting and pulling jobs. The automatic friction brake supplies constant, positive holding action and prevents a runaway load. Brake is fully automatic and the load remains in position any time the handle is released. A load is required to pull line from the winch drum.

Pulling Winches
Pulling winches are best suited for boat trailers and other horizontal pulling applications which require the freewheeling feature of ratchet type winches.

[YellowToy]

Just to simplify it...

a Brake winch you have to "crank it" to lower it. If you stop "cranking" it automatically stops the load.

A Boat Winch you have to hold back on the handle as it tries to free-spool down. You do not want this.

Amazon sells the Dutton Lainson 800lb Brake Winch for < $50.

Brake Winches
Brake Winches are suitable for many lifting and lowering applications. Self-locking brake winches provide additional safety and control for many lifting and pulling jobs. The automatic friction brake supplies constant, positive holding action and prevents a runaway load. Brake is fully automatic and the load remains in position any time the handle is released. A load is required to pull line from the winch drum.

Pulling Winches
Pulling winches are best suited for boat trailers and other horizontal pulling applications which require the freewheeling feature of ratchet type winches.

[uofawildcats]

[QUOTE=HG97TJ;1030471]Amazon sells the Dutton Lainson 800lb Brake Winch for < $50.

That's exactly the one I ultimately purchased. I got it from NorthernTool.com for $48.99.

[capt scotty]

If you are going the hand winch route DO NOT buy the NON BRAKING winch. they are a pain in the butt. I thought I could get by with it and hated it. if your hand slips the money you save goes away fast. I ended up redoing it. I decided to use the 110 volt winch from Haror freight. that is a sweet way to go.

[Bartness1]

Great Job!!!

[uofawildcats]

The u-bolt width is in fact 3". The height of the u-bolt is 7.5". Also notice the hook on the right is extended using a threaded coupler and a scrap piece of threaded rod that was cut off one of the other u-bolts. This longer hook is used on the rear of the hardtop. Hope this helps !!! :D

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0437.jpg

All I could find were U-bolts with a 4 inch inside width. Any reason why these wouldn't work just as well (based on the roof design or other factors)?:thinking:

[HG07JKRubi]

All I could find were U-bolts with a 4 inch inside width. Any reason why these wouldn't work just as well (based on the roof design or other factors)?:thinking:

They would probably be OK. I would just make sure your hoist bar is wide enough on each side to allow you to move the hook out one hole since the end of the u-bolts come pretty close to the roll bar once in place. (see pic below) Spacing them a little further out on the channel strut may help get around this for a wider u-bolt.

Also - I found my hardware at Tractor Supply as mentinoed in the OP. They have the 3" u bolts on-line too ... http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_52142_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0018.jpg

[uofawildcats]

I used a two step approach first lifting the top up to my garage ceiling using hoist bar and hand winch. Once the top was up to the ceiling I lowered it onto a suspended wood shelf.

Hoist Parts:
----------------
10' Channel Strut (Home Depot "SuperStrut" or B-Line B22 Channel; see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com) for catalog) (qty: 1)
5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com (http://www.b-line.com/) for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)
Channel nuts/bolts (qty: 9)
Channel end caps (qty: 3)
Channel washers (2-holes qty=3)
Channel washers (1-hole qty=1)
1/2" x 3" eye bolt (qty: 1)
brake winch
3/8" nylon rope (50' length)
2" Block and Tackle set (search google for "National 2" Block and Tackle") (qty: 1)
2" swivel pulley (qty: 1)
quick links (qty: 2)
lag screws (qty: 20 or so)
3/8" square U-bolts (3" inside width x 7.5" tall) (qty: 3)
3/8" vinyl tubing (qty: 2 feet)
36" slotted angle (qty: 2)
foam rubber pipe insulation ( 1 - 7' length)


I've got a question about the 1/2" x 3" eye bolt. My channel is only 1.5" deep. The 1/2" x 3" eye bolt appears to protrude through the other side through the padding even when it is fully tightened against the nut. Did you cut the excess portion of the bolt? Would something shorter like a 1/2" x 1 1/2" eye bolt work better?

[HG07JKRubi]

I've got a question about the 1/2" x 3" eye bolt. My channel is only 1.5" deep. The 1/2" x 3" eye bolt appears to protrude through the other side through the padding even when it is fully tightened against the nut. Did you cut the excess portion of the bolt? Would something shorter like a 1/2" x 1 1/2" eye bolt work better?

I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a shorter eye bolt. You definitely don't want the bolt protruding through the bottom of the channel and scratching the top. It's very possible I may have hacked off the end of the bolt like you mentioned if it was coming through the bottom. How's the rest of the build going ?

Also - that may be why I doubled up the square washers on the eye-bolt... maybe the 3" eye bolt was just too long.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0006a.jpg

[tommyluv78]

thank you so much HG for posting this on here. ever since i got my unlimited i've been looking at the hoists in quadratech and JCW wondering how to build one cheaper. then i saw your creation and to top that off you had the shelf idea. FREAKIN GREAT! i finished mine friday night around 10 or so, couldn't wait to get up saturday morning and take the top off bymyself. well after a little tweaking to find the balance i needed, all is good. thanks again for making things a little easier around here.

[YellowToy]

I've got a question about the 1/2" x 3" eye bolt. My channel is only 1.5" deep. The 1/2" x 3" eye bolt appears to protrude through the other side through the padding even when it is fully tightened against the nut. Did you cut the excess portion of the bolt? Would something shorter like a 1/2" x 1 1/2" eye bolt work better?

The eye bolt I used was shorter than 3 inches. The important part is the 1/2 inch, not the 3 inches.

[HG07JKRubi]

thank you so much HG for posting this on here. ever since i got my unlimited i've been looking at the hoists in quadratech and JCW wondering how to build one cheaper. then i saw your creation and to top that off you had the shelf idea. FREAKIN GREAT! i finished mine friday night around 10 or so, couldn't wait to get up saturday morning and take the top off bymyself. well after a little tweaking to find the balance i needed, all is good. thanks again for making things a little easier around here.

No problem. I've made use of many write-up posts from this forum so this was my contribution. I can't wait to use my hoist as well but the weather has been real back and forth here on the East Coast :sad2:. Waiting for a string of nice days in the forecast. (is there such a thing in PA :what?:)... trying to be being patient :waiting:

[db99wj]

For those that are not using a platform, how stable is the top when it is hanging there from wind. I have a garage problem, I don't have one, I have a carport. I have got to have a way to pull this thing off by myself. I need something to be able to pull in, pull off, drive off, then repeat, later that day. I will be taking the top off on weekends only, then putting back on for the week, due to job and security reasons.

I've been looking at the one at a 4 wheel part store.

[tunes]

For those that are not using a platform, how stable is the top when it is hanging there from wind. I have a garage problem, I don't have one, I have a carport. I have got to have a way to pull this thing off by myself. I need something to be able to pull in, pull off, drive off, then repeat, later that day. I will be taking the top off on weekends only, then putting back on for the week, due to job and security reasons.

I've been looking at the one at a 4 wheel part store.

I'm looking at the same problem when I put my lift on.
I am moving my hoist out of the garage (A frame on wheels), and then lowering it onto a platform on wheels to roll it back into a shed.

Maybe something like that would work for you.
But if you want to hang it by the hoist, I steadied mine with 2 bungie cords so that it wouldnt twist while I was backing up to it. Something like that could work for you if you need to keep it up and out of the way, but really the platform doesn't hang much lower than the top itself.
I use 2 pieces of wood (1X4) hanging from chains.
I was thinking of replacing the chains with straps so that I can crank them higher once the top is on it, since the hoist hangs down 6 inches because of the pulley etc. I gave up on figuring out how I could do this when I decided to go with the lift though since I wont have the height I need in the garage.

cheers

[uofawildcats]

The eye bolt I used was shorter than 3 inches. The important part is the 1/2 inch, not the 3 inches.

Which dimension is which on an eye bolt? In other words, which dimension does the 1/2" refer to and which dimension does the 3" refer to? I've had different people tell me different things. When measuring the length, I've had some people tell me you measure from below the eye to the end of the bolt while I have had others tell me you measure from the top of the eye all the way through the length of the bolt.

When you say the important part is the 1/2 inch, which measurement is that?

[CSJK]

I'm planning to build my hoist over the next few weeks. I'm planning on using the U-Bolts to hold up the left/right sides, but will use webbing to support the front/rear. In order to save as much space as possible, I plan to store the hardtop with the rear window down and mount it as close as possible to the back wall of my garage. My question is: assuming the rear window is down, how close can I mount the hoist assembly/hardtop to the rear wall of the garage? I was planning on backing the Jeep up until the spare tire is almost touching the back wall, then mount the hoist directly above that. Any other ideas for saving space?

[HG07JKRubi]

Which dimension is which on an eye bolt? In other words, which dimension does the 1/2" refer to and which dimension does the 3" refer to? I've had different people tell me different things. When measuring the length, I've had some people tell me you measure from below the eye to the end of the bolt while I have had others tell me you measure from the top of the eye all the way through the length of the bolt.

When you say the important part is the 1/2 inch, which measurement is that?

The 1/2" measurement indicates the thickness (or diameter) of the threaded end and should match the hole size of the nut.
The 3" measurement is shown below for an eye bolt.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Images/charts/length-eye-bolt-forged.gif

[HG07JKRubi]

how close can I mount the hoist assembly/hardtop to the rear wall of the garage? I was planning on backing the Jeep up until the spare tire is almost touching the back wall, then mount the hoist directly above that. Any other ideas for saving space?

Unless your ceiling mount is a track (like YellowToy's post in this thread http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?t=5559&page=11) then yes, you'll be limited to how far you can back up in your garage (with or without your spare tire).

[uofawildcats]

The 1/2" measurement indicates the thickness (or diameter) of the threaded end and should match the hole size of the nut.
The 3" measurement is shown below for an eye bolt.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Images/charts/length-eye-bolt-forged.gif

Then it would seem to me that since a channel is only about 1 1/2" deep, the ideal eye bolt would be 1/2" x 1 1/2". That way nothing protrudes out the other side, no need to cut off any excess, or double up on washers under the eye.

[HG07JKRubi]

Then it would seem to me that since a channel is only about 1 1/2" deep, the ideal eye bolt would be 1/2" x 1 1/2". That way nothing protrudes out the other side, no need to cut off any excess, or double up on washers under the eye.

true - you just may be limited as to how short the bolts are sold in the 1/2" diameter variety. I will double check the bolt length on my hoist later tonight ... Again - it's been two years but I'm almost certain I cut it down a bit.

[YellowToy]

the eye bolt I used had about 1" of thread.

If you are going to try to put the top closer to the wall you have to have enough headspace to raise the closed rear glass above the brake light. I didn't, so I built the rails.

After I built it I found out you can buy rollers to use the super strut as a trolley rail. That may have been a bit cheaper.

[uofawildcats]

true - you just may be limited as to how short the bolts are sold in the 1/2" diameter variety. I will double check the bolt length on my hoist later tonight ... Again - it's been two years but I'm almost certain I cut it down a bit.

I've seen as short as 1 1/2" such as this one here:
http://www.restockit.com/Eye-Bolt-Shoulder-Pattern-1-2-x-1-1-2-(069-89-025).html?source=froogle&Bvar5=100F1&Bvar6=100F1&Bvar7=100F1

This would probably be the ideal size.

[ram2008jk]

Nice job

[lowrpmtork]

Just to simplify it...

a Brake winch you have to "crank it" to lower it. If you stop "cranking" it automatically stops the load.

A Boat Winch you have to hold back on the handle as it tries to free-spool down. You do not want this.

I was retarded and used a boat winch. I put a big "Do Not Touch" and gave VERY clear instructions to my wife and kids.

[Russellj30t]

I just started looking into making mine like this. I think I am going to look into using the unistrut as a rail. Would like to use this lift for other "light" (<800lbs) applications if ever needed and being able to move the load would be nice (like to pull an engine). Anyway!!!! I wanted to let everyone know that I went to Tractor Supply and they are selling the 800lb brake winch for $29.99! It's also online for this price. The people that didn't use brake winch may want to invest in switching at this price since a dropped top could be a couple grand and some injuries. Cheapest insurance I have seen in a long time! Thanks everyone for all the post. Lots of great info. I love unistrut... It's like an erector set for big kids! You can build anything!

[cam813]

I used the same Winch from TSC and it works great. Not to mention the price. I have'nt finished the shelf yet but here are some pics.
Thanks again to this forum and also to HG97TJ for the original write up.
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23171&d=1240925756
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23172&d=1240925836
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23173&d=1240925856
Not sure why the click free will not work.:thinking:

[HG07JKRubi]

I used the same Winch from TSC and it works great. Not to mention the price. I have'nt finished the shelf yet but here are some pics.
Thanks again to this forum and also to HG97TJ for the original write up.
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23171&d=1240925756
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23172&d=1240925836
http://http://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23173&d=1240925856
Not sure why the click free will not work.:thinking:
Nice work cam ....here are the click free pics:

http://jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23171&d=1240925756
http://jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23172&d=1240925836
http://jk-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23173&d=1240925856

[cam813]

for whatever reason, I can't see the click free pic's. Just a box with an x.:dontknow2:

[Sunburst-Kid]

I too am just starting this project. Hit snag right out of the gate. Tractor Supply now says the Brake Winch (#0189317) is a "clearance item" that is no longer available. So far I have called two local stores and neither one still has any. One store did have a monster one that holds 1500 lbs. but it is like $70. :eek2:

Any other "safe" suggestions. :dontknow2:

[johnkay]

I'm also in search for a winch similar to one in TSC for around 30 bucks. Nearest TSC is 50 miles away for me and they don't offer this one for online purchasing and shipping to my place. Any other place I can get one like this for a reasonable price?

[HG07JKRubi]

I too am just starting this project. Hit snag right out of the gate. Tractor Supply now says the Brake Winch (#0189317) is a "clearance item" that is no longer available. So far I have called two local stores and neither one still has any. One store did have a monster one that holds 1500 lbs. but it is like $70. :eek2:

Any other "safe" suggestions. :dontknow2:

Try Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Dutton-Lainson-Winch-Automatic-Brake-Capacity/dp/B0006PJE9M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1241099589&sr=8-1) or NorthernTool (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331203_200331203) for the Dutton Lainson 800lb brake winch. $48.99

[Sunburst-Kid]

Thanks a Million for finding that. I just ordered one from Northern. Really wanted to start this today, but you know how that goes...:wink:

You've don't a great job with this write-up. Many thanks in advance. :thumbsup:

[Thorvald]

Well since I'm headed off to Aldershot / Gagetown all summer long for Army Courses, I had to do something with the hardtop. Thanks to this thread it was a great start! Most of the parts I found from Home Hardware, The Fastening House & Princess Auto. Home Depot Canada was useless :-)

I was about to buy a brake winch and pulleys from Princess Auto but they had a nice electric hoist on for $84. The manually brake winch was well over $100... so it was a good deal! I actually ended up moving the hoist higher than the joists so I could tuck the top right against the joists (Pics don't show this). The winch was a great deal since it already had a locking hook, pulley, aircraft cable and hangs from a piece of unistrut with the included brackets.

Little trick here, I used some Silicone spray lube to get the vinyl tubing around the U bolt completely without cutting it. Now the U-Bolt's are completely covered.

Was a pretty simple project, thanks for the great design! Just took a little while to find all the parts. Only issue I really have is the winch is a tad fast so I might open it up and see about slowing it down.

Electric Hoist - Princess Auto
UniStrut - Fastening House
4 Hole T Gusset plate - Fastening House
Spring Clips and bolts - Fastening House
Square Washers - Fastening House
Chain - Home Hardware
U Bolts & Eye Bolts & other Chain bits - Home Hardware
Vinyl Tubing - Home Hardware
Pipe Covering - Home Hardware
Wood - Lying around the house :-)
Beer - My Fridge

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050001/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050002/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050003/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050004/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050005/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5050006/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5080008/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5080009/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5080011/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/timgfoley/100217/P5080012/web.jpg

[YellowToy]

Thorvald,
the easiest way to slow the winch speed is install a pulley on the "hook side" like you would a snatch block wheb winching. that will cut the lift speed in half.

[tunes]

I have been thinking about how to continue to use mine now that I have a lift and 37s on it. I dont have the clearance to raise the top at all.

If I air down I might lower the top onto the cradle with it as high as it will go :rotflmao2:

Anyway, I have a finished ceiling, so I will cut a hole and brace the pulley above the joists, and another one and pulley above my hand crank hoist. The cable will then run above the joists.
That should allow me to raise the cradle all the way flush with the ceiling which is 6 or 7 inches higher than I can get it now.
I'll post pics when I can get in there to mod the lift (wife has the garage full of junlk getting ready for yard sale (I thought the Jeep would even fit into the garage with the 37s, glad i was wrong about that :brows: )

[YellowToy]

tunes,

if you want a real clean look, you can cut the houle to install your pulley, then route the cable in the ceiling cavity to a similar pulley at the wall above the winch.

[tunes]

Ummmm,

I think you are saying the same thing I did.
The cable running above the ceiling, above the joists out of sight, then coming back down thru another hole above the winch/crank, or am I not understanding what you mean ? :thinking:

[Hoovis]

Thanks everyone for the great thread and great ideas. I needed to make mine a touch more complicated because I have a bunch of stuff stored in that corner of my garage. So I mounted the winch on door track and sliders so that I can lift it up and then slide it back to the platform.

I was also thinking I would go with a hand crank but found the 440 pound winch for $75 at Harbor Freight tools. This was probably cheaper than buying the braking hand crank and several pulleys I would have needed. Not to mention this is a whole lot easier, as I can simply guide the hard top with my free hand as I push the button to hoist/drop with the other hand.

So my set-up involves hoisting the hard top up, and then sliding the top back to the platform, rather than just hoisting it straight up. With all the hardware, wood, chains, hoist, and door track, it cost me about $220 total. (The tennis balls are simply to prevent any scratches as the bolts that came with the door track were rather long and I didn't want to track down other suitable bolts.)

You can see that the cat approves of his new perch. The downside, is that I need to hoist up the platform in order to use the pinball machine, so I won't be playing any pinball while the hard top is stored.

Thanks again to everyone for the great ideas. I found a screaming deal on a hard top a couple weeks ago, and can now remove it and the doors in about 15 minutes.

http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/medium/IMG_01511.jpg

[ericg]

There's a ton of information in this thread. Thanks to all who contributed.
I've been wanting to do this project for over a year, and finally got the time and $$ to do it.
I've got everthing I need, including an electric hoist from Harbor Freight for $75, I just cannot find the square 3"x7.5" U bolts. maybe I'm looking in the wrong dept.?

Thanks

[Hoovis]

ericg, can't help you on the u-hooks. Sorry that nobody has responded. I am hoisting it up on some motorcycle tie downs. I only need to lift it about 6 inches for about 60 seconds, and given my set-up (quickly placing it on a platform), I did not go with the "t-bar" or similar.

That being said, and just as an FYI, because I am not able to hoist the top straight up (and need to guide it a bit with my hand for a foot or two), I will point out that after a few times doing so, while my set up works great, the front "feet" or "bumpers" do scratch the top of the sides of the tub a bit. So going forward, I'm placing a towel under the "front bumper" thing that fits into the little hole in the front before hoisting it up. Again, mine needs to slide back a bit due to the ceiling lights, so this isn't likely an issue for most, but thought I'd mention it. Not a big deal, but if you can't hoist yours straight up like mine cannot, due to the garage space, put a towel under this front bumper to prevent any small scrathes on the upper sides of the tub.

Since I am hoisting then sliding on door rails up top, it want to slide back a foot or so first, so if you need to run a similar set-up, just put a towel under the sides and there is no more scratching. FYI.

[Thorvald]

There's a ton of information in this thread. Thanks to all who contributed.
I've been wanting to do this project for over a year, and finally got the time and $$ to do it.
I've got everthing I need, including an electric hoist from Harbor Freight for $75, I just cannot find the square 3"x7.5" U bolts. maybe I'm looking in the wrong dept.?

Thanks

I found them at the local home hardware in the rope isle. They were with the eye bolts.

I've also seen them at Canadian Tire in the car parts isle for "leaf springs", a local car parts store may have in their suspension/spring section.

Cheers
Tim

[HG07JKRubi]

There's a ton of information in this thread. Thanks to all who contributed.
I've been wanting to do this project for over a year, and finally got the time and $$ to do it.
I've got everthing I need, including an electric hoist from Harbor Freight for $75, I just cannot find the square 3"x7.5" U bolts. maybe I'm looking in the wrong dept.?

Thanks

I would recommend your local hardware store (not Lowes, HD) but an Ace Hardware or other hardware store if you don't have a Tractor Supply near you. They seem to have more selection when it comes to items like these.

Worst case just do a search for a supplier of National Hardware and buy it online...

[viper02]

"..5 hole t-gusset plate (see www.b-line.com for catalog, part #B532 - used to join the two pieces of strut to form the "T") (qty: 1)..."

As an alternative to the 5-hole gusset plate, I used one two hole straight plate, a single right angle bracket, and a single hole square plate. All of them were one the shelf right under the channel strut at HD. Cut the channel to length, form the T, use the 3 hole right angle plate to join the T, place the single hole right next to the right angle plate, then join the single hole plate and the right angle plate using the 2 hole plate. You will need to use slightly longer bolts in the two places where the plates are double thickness.

Everything you need from HD in a one stop shopping spree (like that ever happens!).

[HDGreyrider]

WOW!!! I think I've put in 28 hours work on my garage to install this type of winch/shelf setup.

Had to tear down 3 small walls that i put up for shelving.
Had to move the attic crawl space door over a few feet to accomodate
the winch point.
Spackling/filling holes - pinted the walls/ceiling.

Probably 90 pct done.

The shelf is real solid, lag screws into the wall and two sections
of the L bracket for two chain supports into the ceiling.

Will post pictures when done.

I still need the T-Gussett - it's on order at Fastenal.
and I can't find the 3 end caps for the big T. Anyone????

Planning on putting the winch point on a box rail, so I can slide the top over to above the shelf.


Needed to bump this thread anyway. :clap:

[ericg]

I still need the T-Gussett - it's on order at Fastenal.
and I can't find the 3 end caps for the big T. Anyone????


I picked up the T-Gussett and end caps at McMaster Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-end-caps/=2chza3

[RiverRunner]

https://publish.comcast.net/tpath/_e1dyCbfjbnn1NVSLLpmxGUiphJZYXxexJDSaZSgouhWQtvGZc Y3zKdkW6NCFMAVM-LBFHx4Q7yKKXl31trd4kG65sQCpmW8DHR2VoESkXA/

I routed my rope into the attic and down the wall to hide the circus act.
I welded a tube frame together based on you post.

Now taking the top off is a one man show.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

https://publish.comcast.net/tpath/fK6TE1rWWql44xsTqpCf6S-mvT9DRPb4qV9xT36_k2Fm2m8HqSe2QZ-epJY4cHl8Sb148DE1yMFRDYLRT4giOFwkJ_cefh92T835O9QHH uI/

[Reverend]

https://publish.comcast.net/tpath/_e1dyCbfjbnn1NVSLLpmxGUiphJZYXxexJDSaZSgouhWQtvGZc Y3zKdkW6NCFMAVM-LBFHx4Q7yKKXl31trd4kG65sQCpmW8DHR2VoESkXA/

I routed my rope into the attic and down the wall to hide the circus act.
I welded a tube frame together based on you post.

Now taking the top off is a one man show.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

https://publish.comcast.net/tpath/fK6TE1rWWql44xsTqpCf6S-mvT9DRPb4qV9xT36_k2Fm2m8HqSe2QZ-epJY4cHl8Sb148DE1yMFRDYLRT4giOFwkJ_cefh92T835O9QHH uI/
You should make your pictures smaller.

[HDGreyrider]

So here's where I am now...

I have the winch lag bolted to the wall on a shelf of 1x3 and 2x6 pieces.

The shelf is lag bolted to the wall and also supported by a 2x4 lag bolted into the wall. Two chains are connected on the right side corners to corner beams lag bolted into the ceiling joists and also supported on the right by 2 legs that are shot into the floor. It's solid, but I prk the Harley under/next to it and I didn't want to take any chances.

Here's a problem -
The block/tackle is riding on wheels inside of the 10' box rail. Any weight (even just the cable) causes the block and tackle to be pulled to the left towards the winch. Right now, I figure to secure the block/tackle with rope over to some hooks on the right. Anyone have better ideas as to how to get around this?

Here's some pix.
IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch001.jpg[/IMG]


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch002.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch003.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch004.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch008.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch009.jpg


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/hdgreyrider/winch010.jpg

[Reverend]

Paint it black so it looks like a bondage sex swing.

[HDGreyrider]

Paint it black so it looks like a bondage sex swing.


Why be so obvious :rotflmao2:

[YellowToy]

Here's a problem -

Right now, I figure to secure the block/tackle with rope over to some hooks on the right. Anyone have better ideas as to how to get around this?


The only solution it to mount the winch "on the other side" of the rollers.

Obviously you can't mount is at the roller because that we be too difficult to crank right next to the ceiling. You could mount it directly onto your T-frame & should be able to reach the crank. If you can't reach the center of gravity of the T, you can mount the winch on one side (or the rear) of the T and use pulleys to run the cable to the Center of Gravity.


I don't know if you've tried this on you top yet, but the two other problems you will have with your setup are:

1 - The winch cable will be pulling the top toward the back wall with a force of 1/2 the weight of the top (about 50 lbs) when you unhook that securing rope. Could be tough to control.

2 - The top will lower as you slide it back on the rail. With doubler setup, the top will lower 6 inches for each 12 inches you slide the top back on the rail.

[HDGreyrider]

Thanks Yellow Toy - if I move the winch to the other side that woould be a great fix for when I take the top off and move it over to the shelf. But..... When it came time to put the hardtop back on - then I have the same issue all over again.

You've given me an idea - I'm thinking of a counter weight (50-60 lbs???) hanging off an eye hook that would keep tension on the right side.

[hvilla]

Great work HG07JKRubi!!! Looks impressibly clean and professional!!!

[YellowToy]

You've given me an idea - I'm thinking of a counter weight (50-60 lbs???) hanging off an eye hook that would keep tension on the right side.

How about this... Use the "tie-off" while you're cranking it up, then run a stinger (short piece of cable or chain) directly to the hook on the bottom of the pulley so you can let the tension out of the wire rope because the weight would be held directly by the stinger.

Once you then unhook the tie-off cranking on the winch will draw the the whole top back onto the platform while taking the slack out of the wire rope.

[BigdaddyH]

I stole this design myself and modified a few things to fit my needs. The worm gear style winch is geared really slow so I use my electric drill to raise/lower the top. The gear ratio is so low that my cheapo drill has no problems turning with the 100 lb weight. I installed eye bolts to the 4 corners and will eventually make a wood shelf but for now I just use the cotton rope tied off as a secondary support for the top in case the winch fails.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c119/bigchadh/P7060010.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c119/bigchadh/P7060011.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c119/bigchadh/P7060012.jpg
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c119/bigchadh/P7060013.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c119/bigchadh/P7060013.jpg

Nice BigDaddy... Some flat 2 hole washers like I used will keep those U-bolt hooks nice and perpendicular to the t-bar. The can be found at Home Depot in the electrical section near the channel strut... You can see how straight the hooks will be when using the washers on top of the channel strut here ...

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/hguarini/JK%20Hoist/IMG_0006.jpg

[BigdaddyH]

Good call.

I'm thinking about dipping the ubolts in that rubberized paint stuff like what you redo your plier handles with. I'll have to dig some of that stuff up somewhere.

[Shaun.AndersonTX]

Finished mine this weekend. I'd post pics, but it looks just like what HG07JKRubi did with a few minor modifications. I saw one post that said they spent $240...not sure how they did that, I shopped at Tractor Supply, Home Depot and Harbor Freight and picked everything up 'all-in' for $140. Takes 5 min to get it off and 10 to put it on by myself now. Awesome forum, thanks everybody.

[Hoovis]

Finished mine this weekend. I'd post pics, but it looks just like what HG07JKRubi did with a few minor modifications. I saw one post that said they spent $240...not sure how they did that, I shopped at Tractor Supply, Home Depot and Harbor Freight and picked everything up 'all-in' for $140. Takes 5 min to get it off and 10 to put it on by myself now. Awesome forum, thanks everybody.

Shaun, I think that was me that paid $240 all said and done. I had to add door track and rollers to mine so that I could lift it up and slide it back over my pinball machine and other storage items.

I think you are right that you can do it well under $150. My point on the $240 total was that I think this would be on the very high end, as it includes a winch that can be rolled back on door track with the hard top hoisted.

Hope that helps clear up any cost confusion.

[Hip2u77]

Hey Guys / gals. Just another suggestion that I haven't seen mentioned, though I might have missed it.

This is for those like me that store the T-frame against the ceiling when the top is on.


I installed another eyebolt up where the two sections of the unistrut join. It makes it so the bottom of the "T" is the heavy part while unloaded. After I stick the top on I unhook from the main eye and hook onto the storage eye and just raise it up so the top of the "T" is against the celling. It's a lot more steady that way.



Bad pic, but you get the idea. Just install an eye up closer to heavy part of the "T".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/Hip2u77/IMG_0764Medium.jpg


This is for those that used a electric winch. You can see in the above pic the 4 color trailer wiring. I used it to extend the winch remote wiring to a better place for me. I also used a 4 prong trailer plug so I can unplug it during the winter. I'll get an overview pic later on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/Hip2u77/IMG_0766Medium.jpg


The remote is hanging down beside the far right blue tie-down. The attic stairs mad for an easy install.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/Hip2u77/IMG_0771Medium.jpg

[HG07JKRubi]

Hey Guys / gals. Just another suggestion that I haven't seen mentioned, though I might have missed it.

This is for those like me that store the T-frame against the ceiling when the top is on.


I installed another eyebolt up where the two sections of the unistrut join. It makes it so the bottom of the "T" is the heavy part while unloaded. After I stick the top on I unhook from the main eye and hook onto the storage eye and just raise it up so the top of the "T" is against the celling. It's a lot more steady that way.

Cool. Got a picture ?

[MountainRubi]

2 door top storage! :thumbsup:

Thanks to this thread I was inspired to do my own. I chose to mount an electric hoist on a box rail so I can take the top off and then push it to the side of the garage - where I built a shelf that hinges for the (almost) length of the top for summer storage. (I have to remove the bars underneath which help hold everything level and support the top when extended)

I just cover the top with a moving pad and keep the whole thing together (unless I need the hoist for something else, like loading/unloading the snow blower). I used web strapping so I can open/close the top and put the freedom panels in (and other jeepy things if necessary).

Pictures are at: http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/JeepTop

http://members.rennlist.org/mountain914/JeepTop13.JPG

The top isn't too heavy (about 100 pounds?) and I pretty much built everything to handle about 400 pounds.

I've got the OME 2.5 inch lift, 33 inch tires, and the ceilijng height is about 9 feet, so not a whole lot of room to play but it makes for a very easy one man operation for old pharts like me.

[YellowToy]

Mountain Rubi....

I like the ubolts for the straps. Might have to do that myself.