TeraFlex 60 vs. Currie Rock Jock 60 vs. Dynatrac

[gilbo943]

Was just wondering if you guys think that the Teraflex d60 is better or about the same as the Currie unit. Any thoughts would be great.

[Littlejon]

Was just wondering if you guys think that the Teraflex d60 is better or about the same as the Currie unit. Any thoughts would be great.

In the pictures it looks very similar to the Currie. I would think it would be about the same strength wise.

[David @ Currie Ent.]

There are a number of features that separate the Currie "Rock Jock 60" from the competition, here is a few.....

Flow through oiling system, the cool oil drops in between the pinion bearings and returns to the "sump" area. Makes for great pinion bearing oiling. Something to keep in mind when your vehicle is a daily driver with lots of freeway miles.:yup:

http://images.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0709_02_z+jeep_jk_rock_jock_centersection+diff erential_model.jpg

Other 60's use standard pinion oiling, the cool oil goes into the front pinion bearing, comes out and the same hot oil goes to the second pinion bearing. :sad2:

Set 80 axle bearings, 50% greater capacity than stock. :rotflmao1: The JK is factory equipped with Set 10 bearings.

Adjustable shock mounts, allows the shock to go in factory location or it can be moved up to gain ground clearance.:clap:

Edit,

Only 60 available with bolt on skid plate made of AR400 steel. AR400 is used to make tractor buckets, snow plow blades and such. AR stands for Abrasion Resistant, slides easily on rocks and protects the casting.

Better ground clearance than a Dana 44 no matter what the pinion angle is!!!

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/images/product//currie/JK-RJIIIR_new.jpg

[scotlandjk]

are the currie axles wider than the stock ones? i looked at the dynatrac ones and it says that they are 3" wider. do you have european distributers?

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Currie stocks JK rear ends at 66" wide and 1 Ton front ends at 68 3/4" wide. We can make them any width you want, just takes a little longer. We can ship axles around the world.

[northsidejeepin]

Nice info David, makes me want to buy a 60!

[kidjeep]

Nice info David, makes me want to buy a 60!

X2 except I didn't need any more incentive, just some cash!:yup:

[Screamin Lizard Customs]

Hands down, Currie! We run them in all our JK,s.

[Stuka]

Currie has been in the axle business for a whole lot longer. I would go with experience.

[jeepik]

teraflex makes some good stuff

but Currie makes rear ends, that's what they do and they are the best at it.

[gilbo943]

Hey guys thanks for the info. I was leaning towards the Currie unit but just wanted a little extra advice.

[southbaydog]

David whats the gearing ratio in those, or do you get a choice with that as well?

[Stuka]

David whats the gearing ratio in those, or do you get a choice with that as well?

You can choose everything. Gearing, lockers, etc.

[Littlejon]

What about Currie vs. Dynatrac? Thinking about the Dynatrac dana 44 in the front, and 60 in the rear.

[jeepik]

Dynatrac makes good stuff as well

although different beast in their pro rock line then the Currie and Teraflex lines

not sure if it is fair to compare them

[Evolution]

We have installed around 10 sets of DynaTrac Pro Rocks this year. They handle great on road as an every day driver as well as their Legendary track record of being the premier off road axle due to its strength and awesome ground clearance. They also provide excellent customer service and stand behind their product 100%. My customers have been very happy with them.

The New Dyna Trac 44 pro rock is Awesome and will be a great way to gain ground clearance and axle housing strength and use all your Rubicon internals if you want or even up grade to 35 spline


Mel Wade

[David @ Currie Ent.]

David whats the gearing ratio in those, or do you get a choice with that as well?

You get you choice of gearing, locker and yoke size.

Dynatrac makes good stuff as well

although different beast in their pro rock line then the Currie and Teraflex lines

not sure if it is fair to compare them

I believe all three are in the same class!!!!

The Currie Rock Jock 60 and Terra CRD60R are the only 60's in the market that use the large pinion bearing on both sides of the pinion. Hi-Pinion axles were originally designed by Dana to be used as a front axle only.

When a Hi-Pinion axle is used on the front of a vehicle, the forces on the pinion "push" the pinion away from the ring gear putting a load on the large (inside) pinion bearing.

The opposite happens when a Hi-Pinion is used on the rear, the forces on the pinion "pull" the pinion towards the ring gear putting a load on the small (outside) pinion bearing.

The small outside pinion bearing was not designed to take the extra load. The extra load can cause the bearing to over heating leading to premature failure.

Currie designed the Rock Jock 60 to accept the large bearing on both sides of the pinion and took it a step further and improved the oiling system to keep a constant flow of oil on the front and rear of the pinion bearings.

[gregkuiper]

I wonder with our messed up economy if the guys at Currie might "incentivise" us to purchase the rockjocks with a nice Christmas discount :blush:

[TeraFlex]

This post will probably be a little lengthy, but will help to explain some of the TeraFlex philosophy and history that goes into our heavy duty axles.

Before anything is said, we firmly believe that the TeraFlex 60CRD and the Currie axle are great products, and both will exceed your expectations.

Now for the technical meat.
Both axles are based on the Dana 60 high pinion front axle used in the larger Ford trucks. If you build a rear axle based on that housing you would have three areas of concern;
1- efficient oiling,
2- outer pinion bearing life and
3- ground clearance.
To the degree that these three areas are addressed says a great deal about the manufacturers understanding of the product, and the intended use of the product.

http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/42697/2671726740102496289S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2671726740102496289WQByKx)

1- Efficient oiling. Because the pinion angle is flat/low in the front Ford application the oil system is basically a slosh type that bathes the bearings by virtue of its oil level, filling into the bearing cavity. When the axle is placed in the rear the pinion angle incline is increased from 5 to15 degrees or even more. The oil now has to reach a bearing that is several inches above the oil level and out of the splash zone. A quick test drive on the freeway will show you that the oil flow is inadequate. Teraflex designed the 60CRD oiling system with a high-flow tri-chamber system that uses an industry first Oil Skimmer which shaves the oil off the ring gear pressurizing the larger chamber that feeds into the outer bearing cavity first, this cavity also keeps a reservoir of oil which helps in extended slow, steep hill climbs. All the oil flows through the most critical bearing first and then the inner bearing with its reservoir second before returning to the main cavity. The Oil Skimmer and the larger cavity maintain a healthy flow of oil to dissipate any concerns with oil getting to hot in the heavily loaded outer bearing. We also have cooling fins cast into the housing to dissipate the heat away. We proved the oil flow design before selling it, (For some video of our oil flow testing follow this link CRD60R oil testing (http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562994486tEyYgN?start=28) Note: The various RPMs and incline degrees represent the range of lifts for Jeeps and various trail & freeway speeds).
We also had some of the best rockcrawlers do some ‘light’ torture testing on the product to further reinforce the axle dominance, dependability and durability, Through several full competition seasons these axles held up, and continue to run the rockcrawling and rockracing circuits.

2- Outer Pinion Bearing Life; when the high pinion axle is used in the rear application the load used to go forward is transferred to the outer pinion bearing which is smaller and has a lower bearing life rating. To address this it becomes necessary to upgrade this bearing. To upgrade the bearing it has to be bigger. To do this and retain the original and very common pinion seal we made a removable seal holder which allowed us to upgrade to a big bearing and keep the popular seal. It’s real handy if you have to open up your axle for a gear change or locker change.

3- Ground Clearance; TeraFlex’s CRD or “Constant Radius Design” was the first on the market way back in 2000 and featured our answer to the bulky Ford housing problem. It does have better than a Dana 44 ground clearance (a Teraflex first). The rotated cover is a standard 60 size but you won’t need to worry about that since we include our extreme cast steel Teraflex cover. Both the Rock Jock and the CRD60 achieve great ground clearance without sacrificing oil volume.

4- Other notes of Importance-
Our axle shafts really set the CRD60 apart from other brands; typically axle shafts are made of 1541 which is the material the factory uses, then for an additional charge you can get the stronger 4140 Alloy steel shafts. Our standard axle shafts are 4140.
Another TeraFlex feature seldom seen in aftermarket shafts is shaft profiling which reduces the body of the shaft to a smaller diameter giving it a torsion benefit to dampen shock loads. Proper axle shaft profiling will yield the highest axle shaft strength. The below image is from "Engineer To Win" by Carroll Smith P.120, and explains in brutal honesty the three main designs of axle shafts.

http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/3549/2180763900102496289S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2180763900102496289BaFTeZ)

(for a really good tech article on axle shafts check out Billavistas write-up over on Pirate).
We also feature rolled splines, which increases the strength by as much as 25%. Our shafts are standard with the JK lug pattern and the popular 5 on 5.5”.
We have chose to use the very popular Set 20 bearing because it has such an impressive track record and is used on many full size pick up trucks. This helps in several ways- the main reason being that the local parts store will have them on the shelf, but you’ll probably never need one, as they are much stronger than the set 10 factory bearing.

In conclusion, there are many different aftermarket axle offerings available. Each one follows a different philosophy. We feel that because of the innovations and direction that we have taken with our Heavy Duty CRD60R axle line, many have been forced to follow and emulate. The TeraFlex CRD60R, was the first aftermarket high performance, high pinion Dana 60 application specific for Jeep vehicles, and continues as the industry leader.

[TexsDream77]

Ok.. I was leaning toward the Dynatrac 60's front and rear. Do Currie and Teraflex offer the option of a locking front hub? I'm planning on stub hubs, detroit rear locker, arb front locker, and 5.38 gears.

I love this forum.. All you manufacturers chime in and help us in our decisions with your awsome discriptions of your products. And I never feel like your trying to sell it. Just inform. You guys rock.

Things I'm looking for out of a 60. Lockers obviously. Maximum strenght and longevity. (highway and offroad). Flexablility of Shock/ track bar mounting. Skids on the control arm and shock mount brackets. Front Locking hubs.

I know this may be a real stupid question but, no one has mentioned it and I want to know. Are these axles full floating? I would think so because they come from a 1 ton app.

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Ok.. I was leaning toward the Dynatrac 60's front and rear. Do Currie and Teraflex offer the option of a locking front hub? I'm planning on stub hubs, detroit rear locker, arb front locker, and 5.38 gears.

I love this forum.. All you manufacturers chime in and help us in our decisions with your awsome discriptions of your products. And I never feel like your trying to sell it. Just inform. You guys rock.

Things I'm looking for out of a 60. Lockers obviously. Maximum strenght and longevity. (highway and offroad). Flexablility of Shock/ track bar mounting. Skids on the control arm and shock mount brackets. Front Locking hubs.

I know this may be a real stupid question but, no one has mentioned it and I want to know. Are these axles full floating? I would think so because they come from a 1 ton app.

Our front axle assembly comes with your choice of Warn premium locking hubs or drive flanges. You get your choice of locker and gears. The rear axle is semi-floating.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/images/product//currie/JK-RJIIIF_new.jpg

Part #: JK-RJIIIF
Our Price:$4,999.95

Description: The RockJock® III high pinion frontend assembly for the 2007 and up Jeep JK includes the complete housing featuring the 65-45-12 ductile iron housing center (highest ground clearance 60 on the market), AR400 heat treated bottom skid plate allowing the axle to slide over rocks easily, 3" d.o.m. steel tubes, 1 ton inner knuckles, 5/16" thick heavy steel diff cover, yoke (1310/1330/1350 optional), and all new heavy duty Currie Jeep JK suspension brackets mounted with Johnny Joint® equipped upper control arm mounts for maximum articulation. Axles shafts are the Currie performance 4340 35 spline inner and outer with Spicer 1480 u-joints. Outer assemblies include 1 ton outer knuckles featuring Currie upper steering arm and ball joints installed, Currie exclusive 1 ton unit bearings with 5 on 5 1/2" wheel bolt pattern and JK tone rings allowing for ABS and ESP retention, 13" vented rotors (over 1" greater diameter than stock for increased braking), zinc plated caliper brackets that retain the stock JK front calipers, Currie drive flanges or Warn premium manual locking hubs, and our heavy duty 1 1/4" o.d. 4130 chrome moly tie rod with tie rod ends. Additional parts needed to complete this unit are a high pinion Dana 60 ring and pinion gear set, Dana 60 35 spline carrier of your choice, and a bearing & set up kit. Assembly labor of this unit is included in the price!

[myorbital91]

Thinking about the Dynatrac dana 44 in the front

Me too bro,

[Littlejon]

When the 60 is in the front end the ring gear is turning the opposite direction. By looking at the above pictures I'm wondering how would the Tera CRD60R get oil to the pinion bearings? The Currie Rock Jock 60 looks to have a port on the bottom very similar to the one on my 30 front end which I assume is for oiling the pinion bearing. :thinking:

For the front you would use a reverse rotation ring and pinion, so the oil is traveling in the same path in the front as in the rear.

[Mssbbmia]

I was looking at the pictures posted by Currie and Terra, regarding the oiling.....

Please educate me on this one.....

When the 60 is on the rear both of these units appear to oil good.

When the 60 is in the front end the ring gear is turning the opposite direction. By looking at the above pictures I'm wondering how would the Tera CRD60R get oil to the pinion bearings? The Currie Rock Jock 60 looks to have a port on the bottom very similar to the one on my 30 front end which I assume is for oiling the pinion bearing. :thinking:

That is a great question. The ring and pinion gears are actually the same (reverse rotation design) for front or rear location because the housing is designed to use the high pinion gears so in the front application the gears are just rotating the opposite direction than the rear application. Keep in mind though that they are now back to the location they where originally intended for so the oiling system and bearing upgrades done for the rear application are no longer a factor. The meshing of the ring gear and pinion makes sure that the "high load" bearing (which is the original large inner bearing) gets plenty of oil flow. Front applications tend to require less pinion angle so the oil sloshing, turbulence and oil fill level make oiling and bearing loads a non issue.

[Stuka]

For the front you would use a reverse rotation ring and pinion, so the oil is traveling in the same path in the front as in the rear.

The top of the ring gear will always spin away from the pinion when in a front config. Regardless of it being reverse rotation or not. As that just determines which side of the teeth you are running on (Drive side or coast side).

[BigLar]

I have the Dynatrac Pro Rock 60’s in my rock buggy. I also have Currie Rock Jock 60’s in my YJ so I can provide some firsthand information on both of these products.
All four axels have 35 spline chromoly shafts, Detroit’s, 5:13’s and disc brakes. Both front axels have 300m CTM u-joints. The buggy has drive flanges and the Jeep has Warn locking hubs.
The Dynatac Pro Rocks are very beefy and somewhat heavier than my Rock Jocks. The axel weight in a purpose built rock buggy is not as critical as it might be in a dual sport vehicle like a Jeep. The weight actually helps with suspension droop and lowers the COG. I also run several hundred pounds of water in the front tires so being heavy down low is not necessarily bad. These axels get abused pretty regularly and have given me no problems.
The Currie Rock Jocks also get abused and also have been trouble free. The Rock Jocks however are much lighter, turn sharper, (very important in an Unlimited)use a unit bearing and have a superior oiling system which is very important in a street driven rig. The center sections on the YJ are aluminum. (All that was available when I bought these)
I don’t have any firsthand knowledge of the Tera 60, but I know all three companies have outstanding reputations in the industry. You will not go wrong choosing any one of the three mentioned. However…When I put 60’s in the JK I’ll go with Currie Iron Jocks. The Iron Jocks are less likely to deflect than the aluminum Rock Jocks but still lighter than the Pro Rocks. I’ll probably go a little wider than stock. I like the stability of a wider axel and I want to be sure that I can use all my steering without 37”-40” tires rubbing on the frame. I’ll use 35 spline chromoly shafts, CTM u-joints, at least 5:13’s, locking hubs and either both Detroit’s or ARB rear and Detroit in the front. (ARB’s in the front axle are almost impossible to turn when engaged on the rocks and Detroit’s in the rear axle are a little squirrely on mountain roads.)
Hope this info helps.
Larry

[gogrlgo]

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/images/product//currie/JK-RJIIIF_new.jpg

Have had these on my X-Mas list for a while now, if not X-Mas at least by moab.
:fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed:

[Littlejon]

The top of the ring gear will always spin away from the pinion when in a front config. Regardless of it being reverse rotation or not. As that just determines which side of the teeth you are running on (Drive side or coast side).

The questions was how does the oil get to the pinion bearing to lubricate it. By using a reverse rotation gear you are moving the side the teeth are on, and it rotates in revers to the rear so the same oiling principles on the rear would work (oil skimmer near the ring) which TeraFlex reiterated.

[Stuka]

The questions was how does the oil get to the pinion bearing to lubricate it. By using a reverse rotation gear you are moving the side the teeth are on, and it rotates in revers to the rear so the same oiling principles on the rear would work (oil skimmer near the ring) which TeraFlex reiterated.

Ok, so tell me how a ring gear spinning in reverse is going to turn the tires forward...

In a front axle, the top of the ring gear will ALWAYS turn away from the pinion when the vehicle is traveling forward. It is not possible for it to be otherwise unless you have a transmission in the dif to change the direct of the axle shafts. "Reverse Rotation" only refers to the teeth on the ring and pinion. So that in a front high pinion setup, you can turn the ring gear on the drive side of the teeth instead of the coast side of the teeth.

[pearl-drum-man]

Great thread.:thumbsup: We need more like this one.:yup:

[08RedRecon]

great thread. I learned a lot from reading through this. Also realized Ive got a lot more to learn because half of it went over my head. :crazyeyes:Ill get there someday.

[Woody99]

I have about 7000 miles on my RockJocks and I am still confident I made the right decision. At the time, the Dynatracs were about $2000-3000 more than the RockJocks. The RockJocks were just as comprable and some could argue even better. All three companies have great products and service so anyway one would go would be good.

[Vega]

I think one of the large benefits of the RockJocks over all the others is the angled built in sliding skid plate under the differential cases. Very nice.

[Evolution]

Differential housings,covers, spindle forgings,Hubs and all Dyna Trac components are 100% MADE IN THE USA,and Assembled IN THE USA:thumbsup:
Some times having stuff made in the USA reflect on the final cost of a product.

[Geeper4x4]

Wow!!! I want a new 60 for my JK now. It will be a long time before this is on my Jeep. The information is great for a guy who dreams of mods like this.

[castor07jk]

What about Solid Axles:dontknow2:

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Differential housings,covers, spindle forgings,Hubs and all Dyna Trac components are 100% MADE IN THE USA,and Assembled IN THE USA:thumbsup:
Some times having stuff made in the USA reflect on the final cost of a product.

The Rock Jocks that we have packaged for the JK do use our import center section, the balance of the components are made in the USA.

If you are interested in a 100% MADE IN THE USA axle package we can accommodate your needs by using Currie's Rock Jock II.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2757

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/images/product//currie/60ijctr.jpg

Mfg: 60-IJCTR
Our Price: $999.95

Description: RockJock® III Ductile Iron Currie high pinion 60 housing center features cover that is relocated to a 60 degree angle to the pinion gear, and equal size large front pinion bearings. Includes bolt on replaceable lower AR400 abrasion resistant steel skid plate, carrier caps, bearing spacer to adapt the larger front pinion bearing to the pinion gear, and pinion seal. Made in the U.S.A.!!! Sold each.

The Rock Jock III (import housing) was developed to satisfy our customers needs for a more economical housing. Both the Domestic and Import are made out of the same material and receive the same quality control procedures.

[Dynatrac]

On behalf of Dynatrac, I apologize for not posting on this thread sooner, but I don’t get nearly enough time to make comments on sites like this.

I noticed a lot of focus on oiling systems in this discussion, and while I disagree from an engineering standpoint with some of the technical points made, I think the issue of oiling in hi-pinion axles is not the most important thing when considering a D60 for your rig. While I am completely confident in Dynatrac’s DS/HV (dual-sump/hi-volume) system, I don’t see any reputable axle builder having major problems with pinion oiling anymore. Dynatrac perfected it, but other companies also do it well enough so they don’t appear to have chronic problems.

I founded Dynatrac in 1988 to build Dana 60’s, and only Dana 60’s. Besides other Dana axles (D44, D70, D80) the D60 is still our flagship product and focus. We don’t do lift kits, transfer cases, Ford 9” stuff, bumpers or anything else. We built the first hi-pinion Dana 60 rear end in 1991, and our DS/HV oiling system has been proven by many thousands of everyday driving, highway running and 4-wheeling trucks, Jeeps, buggies, RV’s, you name it, for millions of miles.

In fact, while Dana 60’s are the benchmark of axle performance today, I can remember showing Dana 60’s at my first booth in Moab, where most people thought I was crazy. “Who needs that?!? My Dana whatever has been running forever”, was the most common comment. Wow, how things have changed. That was a long time ago and it didn’t discourage my vision and belief in building the best product possible.

Here are a few things that I think are important for your consideration.

1. Ground Clearance – The ProRock has absolutely the most ground clearance of any Dana 60 housing. We have a US Pat.Pend. on its design. In terms of reducing the area that is below axle centerline, the ProRock60 has the most ground clearance.
2. Housing rigidity – The #1 job of a housing (especially a hi-pinion rear) is to keep the gears in proper mesh at all times and support the weight of the vehicle. The ProRock does that better than other housings due to its structural design, heat treatment process and proprietary grade of nodular iron. The forces of big tires over obstacles and ultra-high torque input (especially from low ratio transfer cases) try to distort and bend the housing, which shifts the contact pattern of the gears to a weaker position. Gear strength is compromised if the housing does not do enough to maintain proper gear mesh and axle shaft co-linearity. We test the ProRock for this capability and do comparison tests on other housings.
3. Quality – Dynatrac makes housings, castings, shafts and forgings in the USA. Not China and India as others do. Aside from my patriotic beliefs, American metallurgy and process control are the very best in the world. Almost anyone can make some good parts, but making many good ones, all the time, over and over, with consistent quality is much harder. Third world nations may be cheap, but they are years behind in experience, manufacturing control and technology implementation. Quality requires effort and experience, not just a shipping container.
4. Warranty – Dynatrac provides the best one-year, unlimited mileage, no-fault warranty on our axles. That means if you have a problem - your fault, our fault, or nobody’s fault, you will get the benefit of the doubt and we will fix it for free. We won’t argue over how big your tires are, or whether you should or shouldn’t have been doing the obstacle. Short of wrapping your Jeep around a tree, dropping it out of an airplane, or forgetting to put oil in it, you’re covered.
5. Service – Dynatrac has been a new product manufacturer from Day 1. We have never owned a junkyard, or rebuilt junkyard axles. We document what we build and every axle has a serial number that lets us track quality right down to the names of the guys who worked on it, and what parts are in it. From the order stage of building your axle until it’s delivered, we will spend whatever time is necessary to make sure you get the best axle for your rig.

Axles are the most important part of any 4x4, and you will spend a lot of money, no matter what you buy. Everybody’s job at Dynatrac, is to make sure you get the best axle with the best features.

Jim

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[ReconJeep]

Amen! I have Dynatracs in a 44/60 combo on my TJ, which has done a ridiculous amount of off road miles all around the world, and they have never failed me. These weren't weekend events, but adventure/survival competitions that lasted over two weeks, that could cover up to 5000 miles. Outback Challenge Australia, Rainforest Challenge Malasia, Croatia Trophy, International Warn Challenge, Cup 180 Morocco, and many more smaller hardcore challenges. They were pre-ProRocks, and they are still going strong, without a single component failing. Ever! That fact alone has given us plenty of victories in competitions where people would retire or lose time repairing their rigs. My co-pilot has a custom 4x4 shop, and when he saw how they performed, he exclusively uses Dynatrac on all his builds, and he has to have them sent half way across the world. They are worth every penny. The best part is that they were straight bolt ons. No, I am not sponsored by Dynatrac. Paid a pretty penny for them, and the shipping to the Canary Islands was just as expensive. When something is this well made, it's worth mentioning it. Don't spend your money twice, buy one time and buy right.

[sport-atv]

I think I'll be going with Dynatrac 60's! are they available in stock JK 5" on 5" bolt pattern?

[ReconJeep]

You need to ask them. I know when I changed my axles on my TJ, I had to change wheels, since the wheel pattern for that strength hub started at 5 on 5.5. That was at the time. Things could have changed. Give them a call. They are very willing to listen and answer all your questions. When I got my axles I asked so many questions, since there are so many possible setups. It took months of calls and studying the options, and what my needs and restrictions were. This is truly a custom built item, tailored exactly to what you need, so take advantage of this, and get it exactly how you want them. You don't want to have regrets later.

[Littlejon]

I think the rears come with a dual bolt pattern (5x5 and 5x5.5). I am going to get their front Dana 44 so I can keep a 5x5 bolt pattern when I upgrade.

[ColinW]

I haven't read all 40-some-odd responses to this thread because I don't have the time now, but I did note and read Dynatrac's response and I have to say (maybe from a biased point of view...see below) that his answers are first rate and definitely in line with his products.

If you are ever able to just go to the company for a tour, you'll see it's all business there. As Jim said, his stuff isn't cheap, but it's high quality as all get-up.

I just did my first oil change on the rear diff this past weekend and inside the case is truely a work of art..Everything fits so damn well that I had to use q-tips to clean out the bottom of the housing of all remaining dirty gear oil.

Oh, and that little thing he mentioned about quality control - it's no joke...They have a folder on every single person who buys an axle from them with details on EVERYTHING about the axle.

Feel free to e-mail me with any questions.

http://my.project-jk.com/data/1537/medium/IMG_1156.JPG

[Woody99]

Glad to hear about products being 100% made in the USA! especially with workers compensation costs, benefits, and other employee related costs through the roof....

When my Walker Evans beadlocks arrived about a year back I was quite surprised to see a MADE IN CHINA stamp inside of the wheel.... Should I be concerned with the quality, or has the product proved itself enough not to be worried?

[RDY4RKS]

thanks to the manufactures for putting all the information up here. definitely consider this a prime resource for info on part of my build up. :thumbsup:

[Marine]

I would like to thank Dynatrac, Currie, and Teraflex for posting up detailed information about their respective axles. I find this more useful than the 2 weeks of research I have been doing!!

I actually got a quote from Dynatrac for their Pro Rock D60 setup 2 weeks ago for my TJ (No I don't have a JK yet) and because of the 12K price tag I began looking around elsewhere and doing more research. Honestly, I had sticker shock as i only have 10K to spend on axles.

I have a question for the dynatrac guy, Would your D44 housing accept your high steering setup and be strong enough for 37's? The front is obviously more expensive due to the more complex parts, so if I can get the 44/60 combo and be comfortable with 37's then awesome....

One last question here...I see tons of information on build quality, engineering processes, and oiling systems but the one question not touched (and pretty important given the economy) is the price comparison. Would the manufactures like to throw up their prices for each axle for a full up comparison of product-vs-price!

thanks again for this AWESOME thread (its nice to see manufactures posting up for the people that use these products).

[dyolfknip]

The TeraFlex CRD60R rear JK axle will accommodate tires up to 38”, and features an exclusive No Excuses 1 year warranty. Suggested retail pricing for the JK Wrangler rear CRD60R starts at $1799, with complete axles available from $2995.

i cant find info on a teraflex front dana 60



Teraflex hasnt released anything but the CRD60. I pm'd them earlier in the week and asked if they had planned on anything else and was told a definite YES in different sizes (which I assume to mean D44's also)
Works out great for me as I plan on getting new axles next year.

[dyolfknip]

Correct me if my info is out of date or incorrect

front rock jock III (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2996&p=4999.9500) - Mfg: JK-RJIIIF
Our Price: $4,999.95

rear rock jock III (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2997&p=1899.9500)- Mfg: JK-RJIIIR
Our Price: $1,899.95



Can someone explain why there is such a price difference between the 2?

[Marine]

Correct me if my info is out of date or incorrect

front rock jock III (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2996&p=4999.9500) - Mfg: JK-RJIIIF
Our Price: $4,999.95

rear rock jock III (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2997&p=1899.9500)- Mfg: JK-RJIIIR
Our Price: $1,899.95

The TeraFlex CRD60R rear JK axle will accommodate tires up to 38”, and features an exclusive No Excuses 1 year warranty. Suggested retail pricing for the JK Wrangler rear CRD60R starts at $1799, with complete axles available from $2995.

i cant find info on a teraflex front dana 60


Dynatrac is hard to find too. i would have to email them or call them for their prices.

Those prices are enough to make me go with Currie instead of Dynatrac! However, these prices are for the JK...I wonder if the prices for the TJ are equivelent (can't find one "bolt in" on their website for the TJ).

I will call up Currie during the week and get a price quote (they seem to be closed over the weekend). If the Currie guy on here want's to PM me a quote i want the Rock JockIII with 4.88's and ARB's front and rear. I also want a high steer kit for the front. These need to be TJ bolt in ready (all brackets mounted)

[scottg07]

rear rock jock III:

PrfxItem #QtyDescriptionPriceItem Total
JK RJIII D60 REAR COMP- ASSEMBLY INCLUDED (HSG W/BRKTS-COVER-SKID PLATE-35 SP AXLES W/BRNGS TONE RING RETAINER STUDS-YOKE 1899.95

LOCKER 35 SPLINE (+719.95), RATIO REVERSE CUT (+299.95), D60 MASTER BEARING KIT (+125.95), Set up labor (+124.95)


total....$3170.75 before shipping.

[Totenkopf]

3. Quality – Dynatrac makes housings, castings, shafts and forgings in the USA. Not China and India as others do. Aside from my patriotic beliefs, American metallurgy and process control are the very best in the world. Almost anyone can make some good parts, but making many good ones, all the time, over and over, with consistent quality is much harder. Third world nations may be cheap, but they are years behind in experience, manufacturing control and technology implementation. Quality requires effort and experience, not just a shipping container.
That sold me. I can't stand crap made in china, and I don't even want to spend money at a company that has any products being made there.

I'm either getting a set of Dynatracs for my JK, or I'm going to do custom 609s because they are lighter. The other aftermarket 60 guys are off the list.

[Dynatrac]

I would like to thank Dynatrac, Currie, and Teraflex for posting up detailed information about their respective axles. I find this more useful than the 2 weeks of research I have been doing!!

I actually got a quote from Dynatrac for their Pro Rock D60 setup 2 weeks ago for my TJ (No I don't have a JK yet) and because of the 12K price tag I began looking around elsewhere and doing more research. Honestly, I had sticker shock as i only have 10K to spend on axles.

I have a question for the dynatrac guy, Would your D44 housing accept your high steering setup and be strong enough for 37's? The front is obviously more expensive due to the more complex parts, so if I can get the 44/60 combo and be comfortable with 37's then awesome....

One last question here...I see tons of information on build quality, engineering processes, and oiling systems but the one question not touched (and pretty important given the economy) is the price comparison. Would the manufactures like to throw up their prices for each axle for a full up comparison of product-vs-price!

thanks again for this AWESOME thread (its nice to see manufactures posting up for the people that use these products).

Marine,

As a policy when a customer has over 35" tires, Transfer case low-ratio numerically higher than 2.5:1, plans to get rough on the rocks, just likes to show off sometimes, or wants to wheel over anything with impunity, then we recommend the ProRock 60. However, if you are careful and can excercise some self control than a 44F is a fine choice, but you should stay under 38" tires. Please don't forget the self control part.

We have (4), 44F axles that represent the very best of todays D44 technology.

The first is the Trail Series 44F. This axle is based on the New Generation 44 technology found in the Rubicon JK axle family. The best new features are stronger R&P, bigger bearings, larger U-joints in the shafts, improved electric selectable locker, and hi-pinion housing. The Dynatrac Trail Series 44F for the JK includes those features, and has larger axle tubes, choice of gear ratio, and heavy duty suspension brackets. This is a Made-in-USA product!

The second 44F is our new ProRock 44 Axle. This includes the same features as the Trail Series, but is based on our new ProRock 44 Housing with even bigger tubes, our Pat.Pend. ProRock ground clearance, and our new ProRock end-forgings to support bigger tires and vehicle weight. More ground clearance than a D30! This is also a Made-in-USA product, and is highly customizable for many applications and requirements. We see many JK 4-doors that weigh in over 7000 lbs.

A third choice is the Mopar military JK (J8) 44F axle. This has the same features as the above, except the ProRock housing. The tubes are the same outside diameter as the stock JK 44F, but are thicker wall. These also do not accept the electric selectable locker, but can be outfitted with ARB's or Detroit Lockers. This axle also has a much larger brake assembly than the above axles, and a 5 on 5.5 BC wheel pattern. Dynatrac offers this axle with stock JK (dual) wheel pattern and your choice of gear ratio. We can customize it to fit other requirements if you like. Also Made-in-USA!

Your fourth choice is the Mopar JK Rubicon Dana 44 front. This is the least expensive of all. It is complete with or without brakes, 4.10 ratio, electric-selectable locker. It has the new generation 44 features like, Hi-pinion, New Gen R&P, New Gen shafts, etc. And yep you guessed it...Made-in-USA!!

That's a lot to think about. I can't possibly explain all the details and options available on these products in the forum. I invite you to contact our sales guys, and they can answer all your questions, and make sound recommendations based on your Jeep as it is now, what it will be like in the future, and your budget. They will provide you a written quote, and make sure you get the very best product for your Jeep. You can also ask to talk to me if you like.

All axle buyers should be careful when making price comparisons. There are lots of things that differentiate one axle from another, and it is not always easy for you as a buyer to figure them out. Axles are a long term investment for a Jeep owner. Choose wisely. Doing something right the first time always costs much, much less than doing it wrong once, and right the second time. I knew a welder once that had a sign in his shop. His name was Tim, may he rest in peace. I'll never forget that sign, it said "The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of a low bid". When I buy materials and parts that will end up in my customers hands, or on my own Jeep, I think about the wisdom of that statement.

Jim

[Lo2aY]

Jim I love your products

Jason at HCP4x4 will be in contact with your company soon for a set of D60 Prorocks

Thanks for a great product :thumbsup:

[scotlandjk]

soooo i know this thread is just about dead but...

im really considering D60 axles at least in the front anyway. im thinking solid but not sure. im needing an axle that will last with the least maintainence and the best quality.

so could you say which one you would choose and why?

also state what options you would go for ie kingpin or balljoint.... etc.....
I NEED IT TO LAST

cheers:thumbsup:

[Littlejon]

If you are looking for the best quality I would probably go with the Dyna Trac. Their warranty of you break it within 12 months they fix it no matter what, no questions asked, unlimited miles pretty much says it all.

[Worthless]

I got experience with Solid, I like the people down there and would put it up to anything.

[Stuka]

I would go with the DynaTrac. Go with a king pan axle (FAR FAR superior to ball joint) with manual locking hubs, and real bearings. Ball Joint D60's with unit-bearings are a waste of money IMHO. It will cost a bit more, but it will last forever.

[BigLar]

Here's what I just picked up from Currie. This is my second set of Rock Jocks. The first set was in my YJ for several trouble free years. I also have a set of Pro Rocks 60's in my buggy which was built in '03. They have also been trouble free and have served me well. One of the reasons I bought from Currie is the relationship we built over the years. I explained what I was doing and they offered to let me pick up my bare housings so I could weld on my own link mounts, set caster angle etc. and then they offered to true them up and install the internals. They listened to my needs and offered a solution, great customer service.

There are several posts in this thread from the great manufactures and their equally satisfied customers. It's my opinion that you won't go wrong buying an axle from any of the manufactures in this thread. You would have to try real hard to break any one of these 60's. I think what it boils down to is relationships. Call each one of the manufactures, or your local distributer, and ask questions. Find the company and axle that best fits you. Who would you feel most comfortable calling if you had a question or a problem?

Larry

[w.wood jeepster]

soooo i know this thread is just about dead but...

im really considering D60 axles at least in the front anyway. im thinking solid but not sure. im needing an axle that will last with the least maintainence and the best quality.

so could you say which one you would choose and why?

also state what options you would go for ie kingpin or balljoint.... etc.....
I NEED IT TO LAST

cheers:thumbsup:

I have a currie, I went with them because of their excellent reputation and they are local.
that being said. You will be good to go with of these axles. The biggest issue you have is that you are in the UK. I would call them all and find out who has the most experience with international customers.

[JK07]

I have gone with SOLID D60. bec they are available locally and local warranty is available. For such a big investment I would prefer to be close to the dealer just in case. They are also very SOLID as the name says. I think I will never be able to break them.

[Biff Malibu]

I can't seem to find any pricing on the front Dynatrac 60. Does anyone know how much it cost for a plug and play version?

[LedZepp877]

great thread, i'm drooling for a d60

[Charles7903]

Can anyone give me an All-In cost of these 4 options for a complete replacement solution for both Front & Rear? (the complete axle assembly kit to replace the entire stock D44 Rubicon axle; brakes and all). I want to run ARBs front and rear with 5.38 gears.

I'm having a hard time following all the add-ons for each option and simply want to know the total for each option. :thinking: I've read that the ProRock is the most expensive, but even Google can't find a price for both front & rear. I see the trail series, but not ProRock...


Currie RJ 60 Front Complete Axle Assembly =4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95
Currie RJ 60 Rear Complete Axle Assembly = 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/images/product//currie/JK-RJIIIF_new.jpg

TF Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
TF Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $2,995

http://www.teraflex.biz/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/teraflex-jk-crd60r-rear-axle1.jpg

Dynatrac Front ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
Dynatrac Rear ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $

http://www.dynatrac.com/images/image_products_jkfrontfullaa_s.jpg

I did find pricing for the Dynatrac Rear Trail Series 60 = $3,695.99. But it obviously doesn't have the ground clearance of the ProRock...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=QE60-4001-W.jpg&partNo=DPC&jeep-parts=true&w=380

SOLID Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,695
SOLID Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,445

http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/catalog/SACOM-FR60KP-ARB1_200.jpg

Thanks.

[KenB1010]

Currie stocks JK rear ends at 66" wide and 1 Ton front ends at 68 3/4" wide. We can make them any width you want, just takes a little longer. We can ship axles around the world.

Hi David,

Can Currie build these with the tubes rotated in the carrier so that the spring perches are vertical when the diff is adjusted for pinion angle? If so what information do you need to do this?
:thumbsup:

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Front RJ60 4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95

Rear RJ60 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95

When installing a rear RJ60 the pinion does not need to be rotated as much to get the correct driveline angle because it is a high pinion, so your spring pads will be pretty close to stock.

[Charles7903]

Front RJ60 4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95

Rear RJ60 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95

When installing a rear RJ60 the pinion does not need to be rotated as much to get the correct driveline angle because it is a high pinion, so your spring pads will be pretty close to stock.

Thanks David. Do these prices include brakes in addition to gears and lockers? Or assume the use of the stock brakes?

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Thanks David. Do these prices include brakes in addition to gears and lockers? Or assume the use of the stock brakes?

You re-use your front calipers and complete rear brakes.

[Charles7903]

This thread has been a huge learning experience for me. :clap: However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):

1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?

Thanks. :ya:

[dyolfknip]

This thread has been a huge learning experience for me. :clap: However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):

1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?

Thanks. :ya:


Great questions...someone chime in and educate us please?:thinking:

[sport-atv]

My Currie Rock Jocks will be in this week! :ya:

[therza]

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

I am not an expert, but from days of driving and working on medium duty dump trucks, king pins (not pans) are a means of connecting the outer knuckle to the axle assembly. They are essentially a very large pin, that goes vertically thru the knuckle assembly and allows for the rotation of the outer knuckle when the wheel turns. The king pin is about 8 to 12 inches long (depending on the application) and about an inch or more in diameter. This mass gives it extreme strength. Ball joints on the other hand are much smaller and there is an upper ball joint and a lower ball joint, essentially a rounded metal "ball" that fits into a "socket" allowing the rotation. King pins are much stronger but they also make turning more of an effort. And they do wear out and are hard to replace. I can remember putting a king pin into a freezer and heating the knuckle with a torch to drive the new king pin into place. Not fun. But they probably have a better method today. Hope that helps a little. My concern with king pins would be the loss of steering feel and handling. It is very heavy duty and drives like it.

[Stuka]

This thread has been a huge learning experience for me. :clap: However, I have a few more quick questions (hopefully others are asking themselves these same questions as well):

1. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of manual locking hubs vs. drive flanges?

2. Can anyone explain the advantages / disadvantages of king pan vs. ball joints?

What other options are available and what do you suggest? I know there are probably too many to list, but what upgrades are most common?

Thanks. :ya:

1: Drive flanges are stronger. And if you just want the ultimate in strength, they are the best option in most cases. However, if you have a spool up front, it will make turning extremely hard, even when in 2wd.

Manual locking hubs are the best option for a daily driver. They allow you to disconnect the wheels from the axle shafts. So when you are in 2wd, and they are unlocked, the front axle assembly is not spinning. So you have less parasitic loss, and less wear and tear on the front axle.

Also, if you have a locker or spool up front, you can unlock one wheel to allow for easier turning.

Personally, I GREATLY prefer manual locking hubs.

2: As for ball joint vs king pins, king pins are stronger in most all cases. All medium and heavy duty trucks use them. Light duty truck used to use them, but ball joints are cheaper, so most all pickup trucks from the 80's and up use ball joints.

As for the physical differences, a king pin has a pin with a set of bearings. These hold MUCH heavier loads than a ball joint. A ball joint is basically a ball and socket joint. Every time these move, they cause a little wear, as there is no bearings to allow for the assembly to roll like a king pin.

If you have a choice, go with king pins. They should last much longer.

[Alexandre Luis Westphal]

What is the weight of the RJ60 FRONT ??? / REAR ???

[sport-atv]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=358026720&albumID=1141196&imageID=15954312


:ya:

[Ryanclimbs]

Can anyone give me an All-In cost of these 4 options for a complete replacement solution for both Front & Rear? (the complete axle assembly kit to replace the entire stock D44 Rubicon axle; brakes and all). I want to run ARBs front and rear with 5.38 gears.

I'm having a hard time following all the add-ons for each option and simply want to know the total for each option. :thinking: I've read that the ProRock is the most expensive, but even Google can't find a price for both front & rear. I see the trail series, but not ProRock...


Currie RJ 60 Front Complete Axle Assembly =4,999.95 + 1,600.00 = 6,599.95
Currie RJ 60 Rear Complete Axle Assembly = 1,899.95 + 1,600.00 = 3,499.95

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/images/product//currie/JK-RJIIIF_new.jpg

TF Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
TF Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $2,995

http://www.teraflex.biz/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/teraflex-jk-crd60r-rear-axle1.jpg

Dynatrac Front ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $
Dynatrac Rear ProRock 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $

http://www.dynatrac.com/images/image_products_jkfrontfullaa_s.jpg

I did find pricing for the Dynatrac Rear Trail Series 60 = $3,695.99. But it obviously doesn't have the ground clearance of the ProRock...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/images.ashx?i=QE60-4001-W.jpg&partNo=DPC&jeep-parts=true&w=380

SOLID Front 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,695
SOLID Rear 60 Complete Axle Assembly = $6,445

http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/catalog/SACOM-FR60KP-ARB1_200.jpg

Thanks.


Anyone hava a price on a front dynatrac 60 w/ARB Locker?!

[Lo2aY]

Anyone hava a price on a front dynatrac 60 w/ARB Locker?!

I payed just under 10K for the front of mine

[x No Compromise Offroad x]

yea for bottom of the line (which is still DAMN nice) your lookin at 7-8,000....+ shipping

[Lo2aY]

:puke:


That was my reaction when I got quoted :D

[Ryanclimbs]

I am with you guys. The front end wheeling 37+ tires hard is really a dilemma; I am tired of breaking stuff and paying to have it fixed.

I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!

I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)

In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.

Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.

Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.

I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.

Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)

The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.

Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!


Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS

These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot

A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!

A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily

A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!

The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!

Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)

Hope that helps, after all that...

The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:

$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing

$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation

$4500 TOTAL

Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.

OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!

TOUGH CHOICE!

[Marine]

I am with you guys. The front end wheeling 37+ tires hard is really a dilemma; I am tired of breaking stuff and paying to have it fixed.

I have spent $2K building up my D30 and have broken it 4 times in the last year to an additional bill of $2500. I could MAYBE sell the internals for $1200 to recoup some of it. I am not sure if my insurance company would be too crazy about insuring breakage of a built axle while wheeling... interesting though!

I have done a ton of research and am about ready to place an order so I thought I would share my finds. Ideally I would order a front and rear axle at the same time but as most of us would agree... we have already spent way to much on our projects, the economy SUCKS, and we want a good solution for a reasonable amount of $$$. So it makes sense in my case to just order the front for now and add spacer adapters to the rear if needed. (the 60's are not the same bolt pattern and you will need to get new wheels) If you go 44's you can get them with the same bolt pattern. FYI Warn locking hubs for a true 1 ton 60 measure 4.25" which doesn't work on the current JK bolt pattern)

In 6 months I will probably buy a matching rear. You can get into a rear D60 for much cheaper if you are looking to save $$$. (Like a Dynatrac Trail series 60 ~ they don't make trail series up front though) But for now I am going to just get a front axle upgrade.

Front axles are expensive. In general a front D60 is $7500 and a rear built D60 is $4500. (can of course be cheaper and more) Alot of people opt for a 60 in the rear and 44 up front. I would tend to go the other way. 60 front 44 rear because it seems like the front gets alot more of a beating in my case and I have a suspension that can handle the 60 up front.

Most of these companies would be happy to work out a bit of a discount (maybe $500) if you buy them both at the same time.

I wheel super hard, but slow and in control... I am a tecnical crawler.

Those who drive on the road alot worry about the weight of a D60 for freeway driving. I don't lose any sleep about it and drive on the freeway every day. I had Dynatrac 60's under my TJ and it drove GREAT on road with no oiling issues and these were 8 year old axles, Dynatrac technology has only improved if anything!)

The Currie design is arguably better for heavy highway use because of the oiling system... but I think all of them are fine. The Currie assembly is lighter by maybe 20lbs, whether that is good or bad is up to you to decide.

Lastly... ENGINE. It may have occurred to you that our minivan motor 3.8 V6 may not drive those D60's too well! A supercharger is $5000 and a Hemi replacement is ALOT more. So before you jump think!


Hear is a breakdown of FRONT JK AXLES OPTIONS

These are just ballpark prices. You should call manufactuerers for your specific setups. Currie, Dynatrac, and Teraflex are all INCREDIBLE companies and I firmly believe these are all great options. Any would work for me and I think I would be very happy with them regardless. Prices vary alot

A RUBI 44 totally built up (AXLES, BRACKETS, TRUSS, GUSSETS, AND GEARS) will run $4000 (maybe less used or if you have one to start with) If you bought the lifetime warranty you can probably add gears and gussets and still claim warranty. I would reinforce the mounting brackets as well! And good luck with claiming warranty work!

A complete Dynatrac PRO ROCK 44 w/ARB is in the $6K range
An empty pro rock 44 to fill with your current RUBI stuff is only $2K
A complete Dynatrac PRO 60 w/ARB is $7K
A complete built Dynatrac with options could run 10K easily

A Currie D60 w/44 outers and knuckles w/ARB is about 6K
A Currie basic D60 w/ARB is $7500
A premium Currie D60 is $9500
Currie 609 w/arb $8000 (not sure why you would want this other than it is rare and different!) ~ some people say sexy!

The Teraflex front CRD 60 is not out yet and they are being pretty secretive about the price etc.. but I am expecting it to be similar to the Currie 60/44 and at a similar price. BUT THAT IS JUST MY THEORY!!!!

Diamond Axles, Mad 4x4, Spidertrax, Solid, and Sunray Engineering all make custom axles and in my experience are relatively similar to the Currie and Dynatrac stuff. Mopar makes a J8 rear dana 60 but this discussion is about front axles. They make front 44's for rubicons obviously but are often ridiculed for being weak and using parts that are only D30 strength. (this isn't the place to discuss the problems with the stock D44 though, there are plenty of other posts here that discuss that!)

Hope that helps, after all that...

The most economical way to go would be to buy the Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (I bet Currie has a similar option) and put used rubi parts in it. If you don't have them they can be found dirt cheap on the used forum. I priced one today (these costs change by availability every day) but today this would be the cost:

$950 totally stock used front rubi axle
$2000 Dynatrac housing

$3000 Total cost of parts
$1500 Shipping, gears and installation

$4500 TOTAL

Sell my parts for $1000 and I have $3500 into a very usable front axle for 37's and careful driving. As I break the parts, I will upgrade them.

OR JUST POP FOR THE D60 axle and be relatively done with it for the next 8 years as withh my previous TJ!!!

TOUGH CHOICE!


Very good and thorough writup. I can't tell you what to do, but I can tell you what I have done on my TJ and what I wish I had done on the TJ. I can also tell you what I will do to my rubicon JK!

I have TJ rubicon axles and after putting in chromo shafts front and rear, re-gearing, and ARB lockers front and rear I was set back ~$4500 including install labor of gears and lockers. If I had spent just a little more I could have had built D60's and never worried about a thing!!

Now, as for the JK I have D44's now and plan to lift and install 35's or maybe 37's and at the same time put in a rear D60 (likely teraflex) with 5.13 gears. I will re-gear the front D44 and and drive it until it breaks (hopefully some time) and at that point I will drop in a D60 up front and step up to 40" tires:thumbsup:.

This is my plan and may not fit your ideas, but i can tell you that I will NEVER skimp on parts as its better to spend a little extra in the garage than spend hours on the trail and then have to upgrade or replace anyway....

I realize that the D60's are pricey but I will go this route even though I have the Rubicon and 44's. These are fine for 35's but for 37's I really think you are on borrowed time that way.

[Ryanclimbs]

My thoughts exactly marine... as I said I had Dynatracs on my Tj and changed one u joint in 8 years... I have had a Jk with built stock axles for a year and you don't want to know what I have already spent on these!!!

[therza]

My thoughts exactly marine... as I said I had Dynatracs on my Tj and changed one u joint in 8 years... I have had a Jk with built stock axles for a year and you don't want to know what I have already spent on these!!!

Question for you. I lived in WI for many years and then moved to CO and started wheeling. Where are you wheeling that you are breaking stuff? I just can't picture any trails around Lake Geneva, or anywhere in WI would be that hard - but like I said, I only started wheeling after I was in CO. Just curious where you do most of your wheeling. Mabye in the western part of the state where this is more rock??

[Ryanclimbs]

Question for you. I lived in WI for many years and then moved to CO and started wheeling. Where are you wheeling that you are breaking stuff? I just can't picture any trails around Lake Geneva, or anywhere in WI would be that hard - but like I said, I only started wheeling after I was in CO. Just curious where you do most of your wheeling. Mabye in the western part of the state where this is more rock??

I go all over. The badlands, Redbird, Land Between the lakes, Flat NAsty, Pipeline, Dresser, the Cliffs... I always push the limits and if you want tough you can definitely find it here! (Most people just don't)

[ironworkerlu21]

Now just to throw this out their....and by no means am i taking away from Currie and their craftsmanship. But i have been told as of recently by an industry insider and leader in the driveline business that Currie uses sub par gears in their rearends?

The only reason I found this out is because my recent questions about the KOREAN.....made gears i just bought and installed. Yes i did install them and so far they have been good, but being a hardcore Union man and EXTREMELY hardcore about made in america products, quite frankly bothered me.

So i made call after call after call to different driveline guys questioning these gears and apparently in my gear ratio it is the only manufacturer making them.

But as soon as I can afford the 37's and the Dynatrac's it's on.

........So Currie can we have a rebuttal?.........:dontknow2:

[Suffolk JK]

How do you know that the other companies aren't using components being made in different countries?

[Piginajeep]

How do you know that the other companies aren't using components being made in different countries?
my understanding is that all gears are made in other countries except for Richmond gear

[dyolfknip]

How do you know that the other companies aren't using components being made in different countries?

Pretty sure Solid has come on here and stated they only use US made components. Might have been Dynatrac though. One of the D 60 threads has all the manufacturers stating what they use.


EDIT turns out it was this thread. lol

[dyolfknip]

Now just to throw this out their....and by no means am i taking away from Currie and their craftsmanship. But i have been told as of recently by an industry insider and leader in the driveline business that Currie uses sub par gears in their rearends?

The only reason I found this out is because my recent questions about the KOREAN.....made gears i just bought and installed. Yes i did install them and so far they have been good, but being a hardcore Union man and EXTREMELY hardcore about made in america products, quite frankly bothered me.

So i made call after call after call to different driveline guys questioning these gears and apparently in my gear ratio it is the only manufacturer making them.

But as soon as I can afford the 37's and the Dynatrac's it's on.

........So Currie can we have a rebuttal?.........:dontknow2:



The Rock Jocks that we have packaged for the JK do use our import center section, the balance of the components are made in the USA.

If you are interested in a 100% MADE IN THE USA axle package we can accommodate your needs by using Currie's Rock Jock II.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Products4x4.aspx?id=2757

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/images/product//currie/60ijctr.jpg

Mfg: 60-IJCTR
Our Price: $999.95

Description: RockJock® III Ductile Iron Currie high pinion 60 housing center features cover that is relocated to a 60 degree angle to the pinion gear, and equal size large front pinion bearings. Includes bolt on replaceable lower AR400 abrasion resistant steel skid plate, carrier caps, bearing spacer to adapt the larger front pinion bearing to the pinion gear, and pinion seal. Made in the U.S.A.!!! Sold each.

The Rock Jock III (import housing) was developed to satisfy our customers needs for a more economical housing. Both the Domestic and Import are made out of the same material and receive the same quality control procedures.


LOL foot, meet mouth.:naw: At least for the RJ II.

[David @ Currie Ent.]

Now just to throw this out their....and by no means am i taking away from Currie and their craftsmanship. But i have been told as of recently by an industry insider and leader in the driveline business that Currie uses sub par gears in their rearends?

The only reason I found this out is because my recent questions about the KOREAN.....made gears i just bought and installed. Yes i did install them and so far they have been good, but being a hardcore Union man and EXTREMELY hardcore about made in america products, quite frankly bothered me.

So i made call after call after call to different driveline guys questioning these gears and apparently in my gear ratio it is the only manufacturer making them.

But as soon as I can afford the 37's and the Dynatrac's it's on.

........So Currie can we have a rebuttal?.........:dontknow2:

I can tell you that we use 2 different gear manufactures, Motive Mid West Gear and Dana Corporation. Both of these manufactures make gears all over the world not just the USA. So to say that "Currie uses sub par gears in their rearends" could not be further from the truth, unless you consider Motive and Dana to be inferior quality parts.

On our JK RJ60 axle assemblies the only part Currie imports is the casting, and if you want a made in the USA casting is also available. The RJII is made in the USA and RJIII is an import version of the RJII.

[ironworkerlu21]

Foot in mouth.....:what?:.....No not really.

All I asked for was David to rebuttal on the aformentioned "quotes" by driveline insiders.....insiDERS, plural, as in more then one. And he did, admirably also i might add.

I did not specify exact part numbers but asked for a general sensous, from David, in which I got. Some say the gears from the chinese vendors are, how can i say this.....poopy, :dontknow2:. And was told Currie uses these, not in all axles, but some. And that is what I wanted clarification on....from Currie.

And suffice it to say......I got it.....wouldn't you say dyolfknip? :dontknow2:

[sport-atv]

I can tell you that we use 2 different gear manufactures, Motive Mid West Gear and Dana Corporation. Both of these manufactures make gears all over the world not just the USA. So to say that "Currie uses sub par gears in their rearends" could not be further from the truth, unless you consider Motive and Dana to be inferior quality parts.

On our JK RJ60 axle assemblies the only part Currie imports is the casting, and if you want a made in the USA casting is also available. The RJII is made in the USA and RJIII is an import version of the RJII.



the internet is such a wonderful place, alot of opinionated people who have no clue, I OWN Currie Rock Jock 60's and can tell everyone that the quality of the 60's is amazing, INSIDE and out. Currie isn't in business to sell junk.

[Ryanclimbs]

from personal experience... most readers here are reading and writing from their experience breaking D30 and D44 parts... usually underbuilt. I have owned Dynatrac 60's (and am sure Currie and Teraflex are just as good) and never had any issues. Broke one ujoint in 8 years of hard wheeling.

Bought a JK with BUILT stock axles (superior axles and gears all the way around, trusses, gussets, you name it my stock housings had it....) They still break regularly.

My point is a custom D60 from any of these companies is just designed and built way better than a stock axle. Bigger everything, thicker tubes, better engineering.

Yea, I like USA parts and always go that route when I can. I have owned gears by every american company (Richmond, Yukon, Superior, Dana) and they are all about the same! Keep this is mind though... some of these american forgeries are 40+ years old and old tecnology. Some of the forgeries in Italy and dare I say other (cringe) foreign countries have built forgeries within the last few years. Ya they are off shore but perhaps built better.

I still only buy American but would have to say if they are good enough parts for Currie, Teraflex, or Dynatrac there is a reason why they went with them and have decided they probably know alot more about this than I do. In my experience none of these companies would go with cheaper parts to simply save a dime if they aren't built as well.

[spooky jeep]

Anyone running any of sunray engineering axles on a JK. I remember reading articles on a TJ build about 5 or years ago and their hybrid 1550 axle looked pretty impressive. Like to here if anyone has them on a JK and how they might compare with the 'big 3' discussed here

[Slippery]

I am very close to ordering my Dana 60's. There are many choices, and it's difficult to know what is the best value, and will hold up the best for my wheeling style and 40's.

Has anyone here broken a Dana 60 from any of these manufacturers?

[Marc]

I call dynatrac for a prorock 60 , the minimun width they make them is 68.5" I thought it was available in stock width.
I'm affraid that the full width prorock makes the Jk to wide.

[HolyMolyRacing]

3. Quality – Dynatrac makes housings, castings, shafts and forgings in the USA. Not China and India as others do. Aside from my patriotic beliefs, American metallurgy and process control are the very best in the world. Almost anyone can make some good parts, but making many good ones, all the time, over and over, with consistent quality is much harder. Third world nations may be cheap, but they are years behind in experience, manufacturing control and technology implementation. Quality requires effort and experience, not just a shipping container.
4. Warranty – Dynatrac provides the best one-year, unlimited mileage, no-fault warranty on our axles. That means if you have a problem - your fault, our fault, or nobody’s fault, you will get the benefit of the doubt and we will fix it for free. We won’t argue over how big your tires are, or whether you should or shouldn’t have been doing the obstacle. Short of wrapping your Jeep around a tree, dropping it out of an airplane, or forgetting to put oil in it, you’re covered.
5. Service – Dynatrac has been a new product manufacturer from Day 1. We have never owned a junkyard, or rebuilt junkyard axles. We document what we build and every axle has a serial number that lets us track quality right down to the names of the guys who worked on it, and what parts are in it. From the order stage of building your axle until it’s delivered, we will spend whatever time is necessary to make sure you get the best axle for your rig.

Axles are the most important part of any 4x4, and you will spend a lot of money, no matter what you buy. Everybody’s job at Dynatrac, is to make sure you get the best axle with the best features.

Jim

I will tell you that Jim / Dynatrac stand behiend their product!!!! :ya::thumbsup:
and ORE the install!

[Evolution]

I call dynatrac for a prorock 60 , the minimun width they make them is 68.5" I thought it was available in stock width.
I'm affraid that the full width prorock makes the Jk to wide.

If your Only consern is over all axle width That is an EASY Fixs You just purchase a rim with the correct back spacing for Your desired over all Width .

No you will not make it back to the width of a stock rim and axle conbo but you can make it the width of a stock axle with aftermarket rims.

The reason A true Dana 60 style axle has to be wider is because of the BIG steering knucles and the big axle and U joints.

A lot of set ups out there use dana 30/44 Knuckles and axles That is nice if you are just looking for a biger ring and pinion but does nothing for the week Dana 30/44 Cs , axle shafts and axle U joints .
On those set ups thay all stay dana 30/44 componets.

[Slippery]

Bumping a great thread. Rock Jocks on the way!

[Hot Duck]

.....I OWN Currie Rock Jock 60's and can tell everyone that the quality of the 60's is amazing, INSIDE and out. Currie isn't in business to sell junk.

I agree 100%. I have Currie Rock Jock 60's front and rear as well and they are stout and well built to say the least. I am running 37's with 5.13s and stock power for now, but a Hemi is on the winter project list. I want to be able to beat on the rig (even with the power of a Hemi) while out on the trail and not have to worry about breaking parts. These axles will hold up to the abuse without a doubt.

[RokinRubi]

I'm getting my crd60 very soon and I can't wait. I

[hotnready]

Currie.......

[Texas Trailmaker]

i have a question---i am browsing the latest 4WD catalog and they list a

G2 High Pinion 60 featuring Currie iron Rockjock III
AR400 heat treated skidplate
3" dom steel tubes
1350 pinion yoke
G2 35 spline 4340 axleshafts and G2 Premium gears
Timken Bearings and locker of your choice
Spicer 1480 U Joints
with ARB lockers and 5.38 gears for 2520.99 for the front and same for rear
so a total of 5041.98:clap:


this rig looks mean but i want american made and i want a good company to stand beside it when i get stupid offroad and possibly break it.:yup:

so my question is--is this G2 a company or a model made by Currie?

who backs up the warranty because i really like the price but dont want to deal with a shady company. :dontknow2:

OHH and also what kind of complications will i run into with a teraflex 6" lift kit with Currie Rockjock
i cant weld but i can grind like nobody's business!

[dyolfknip]

i have a question---i am browsing the latest 4WD catalog and they list a

G2 High Pinion 60 featuring Currie iron Rockjock III
AR400 heat treated skidplate
3" dom steel tubes
1350 pinion yoke
G2 35 spline 4340 axleshafts and G2 Premium gears
Timken Bearings and locker of your choice
Spicer 1480 U Joints
with ARB lockers and 5.38 gears for 2520.99 for the front and same for rear
so a total of 5041.98:clap:


this rig looks mean but i want american made and i want a good company to stand beside it when i get stupid offroad and possibly break it.:yup:

so my question is--is this G2 a company or a model made by Currie?

who backs up the warranty because i really like the price but dont want to deal with a shady company. :dontknow2:

OHH and also what kind of complications will i run into with a teraflex 6" lift kit with Currie Rockjock
i cant weld but i can grind like nobody's business!


Google. Not like your daddy used to use ;)

hxxp://www.g2axle.com/

[Stuka]

i have a question---i am browsing the latest 4WD catalog and they list a

G2 High Pinion 60 featuring Currie iron Rockjock III
AR400 heat treated skidplate
3" dom steel tubes
1350 pinion yoke
G2 35 spline 4340 axleshafts and G2 Premium gears
Timken Bearings and locker of your choice
Spicer 1480 U Joints
with ARB lockers and 5.38 gears for 2520.99 for the front and same for rear
so a total of 5041.98:clap:


this rig looks mean but i want american made and i want a good company to stand beside it when i get stupid offroad and possibly break it.:yup:

so my question is--is this G2 a company or a model made by Currie?

who backs up the warranty because i really like the price but dont want to deal with a shady company. :dontknow2:

OHH and also what kind of complications will i run into with a teraflex 6" lift kit with Currie Rockjock
i cant weld but i can grind like nobody's business!


If you wan't american made, do NOT go with Genuine. Now granted a lot of axle parts are made outside the USA, Genuine has a particularly bad reputation. Thats the whole reason that they came up with the new G2 name, was to try and get away the stigma that Genuine has now.

If you want American, go with Richmond, Superior, or Dana Corp.

[TexsDream77]

G2 crappy or not.. I tried to order those axles yesterday. As I thought... it was a misprint. The front is 7K and 4K for the rear. At those prices I will just stick to buying a Dynatrac.

[Bustabizz]

i have a question---i am browsing the latest 4WD catalog and they list a

G2 High Pinion 60 featuring Currie iron Rockjock III
AR400 heat treated skidplate
3" dom steel tubes
1350 pinion yoke
G2 35 spline 4340 axleshafts and G2 Premium gears
Timken Bearings and locker of your choice
Spicer 1480 U Joints
with ARB lockers and 5.38 gears for 2520.99 for the front and same for rear
so a total of 5041.98:clap:


this rig looks mean but i want american made and i want a good company to stand beside it when i get stupid offroad and possibly break it.:yup:

so my question is--is this G2 a company or a model made by Currie?

who backs up the warranty because i really like the price but dont want to deal with a shady company. :dontknow2:

OHH and also what kind of complications will i run into with a teraflex 6" lift kit with Currie Rockjock
i cant weld but i can grind like nobody's business!

This pricing is wrong in our catalog. For obvious reasons, I was looking out for this to get posted eventually. However I have the correct pricing for these axles listed in our catalog.

The Custom Currie/G2 Front axles that we are selling include 4340 35 spline alloy shafts, D60 locker of your choice, gear ratio of your choice, JK tone rings and ABS and ESP, One-ton steering knuckles and one ton chromoly steering tie rod, they come standard with Drive Flanges, Warn Lockouts optional, heavy duty suspension brackets, and a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Comes with 1350 Yoke, choice of 1310 or 1330.
JK Forum Price w/ ARB/OX: $6359.49
JK Forum Price w/ Detroit: $6117.29


The Custom Currie/G2 Rear Axles that we are selling include 4340 35 spline alloy shafts dual drilled, D60 locker of your choice, gear ratio of your choice, heavy duty suspension brackets, choice of stock JK size bearings or Set 80 one ton bearings. Comes with 1350 Yoke, choice of 1310 or 1330.

JK Forum Pricing
Set 10 Bearings w/ Detroit: $ 3286.09
w/ ARB :$ 3652.19

Set 80 Big bearing w. Detroit: $3504.99
w/ ARB : $3798.89

G2 is a reputable drivetrain part manufacture, that carries parts for all Axles. Most drivetrain parts including G2 is made in the same foundries and shops just rebadged, and in most parts come from overseas. Also any of the components can be covered by our No questions Lifetime Warranty, for 10% of the axle price.

Give me a call or PM me if you have any further questions.

[hotnready]

i have a question---i am browsing the latest 4WD catalog and they list a

G2 High Pinion 60 featuring Currie iron Rockjock III
AR400 heat treated skidplate
3" dom steel tubes
1350 pinion yoke
G2 35 spline 4340 axleshafts and G2 Premium gears
Timken Bearings and locker of your choice
Spicer 1480 U Joints
with ARB lockers and 5.38 gears for 2520.99 for the front and same for rear
so a total of 5041.98:clap:


this rig looks mean but i want american made and i want a good company to stand beside it when i get stupid offroad and possibly break it.:yup:

so my question is--is this G2 a company or a model made by Currie?

who backs up the warranty because i really like the price but dont want to deal with a shady company. :dontknow2:

OHH and also what kind of complications will i run into with a teraflex 6" lift kit with Currie Rockjock
i cant weld but i can grind like nobody's business!



Do these axles have the jk compatable ABS tone rings???

[Bustabizz]

Do these axles have the jk compatable ABS tone rings???

Yes, read the above post.

[westchester]

This pricing is wrong in our catalog. For obvious reasons, I was looking out for this to get posted eventually. However I have the correct pricing for these axles listed in our catalog. ......

Yeowch...it took me a few days to get to the axles in your catalog but it sure got me excited last night :) ....$2500 for G2 60s....Dreams of 40s then i checked this morning on this forum to see if pricing was true. Darn !!

Pleasant dreams....

[hotnready]

This pricing is wrong in our catalog. For obvious reasons, I was looking out for this to get posted eventually. However I have the correct pricing for these axles listed in our catalog.

The Custom Currie/G2 Front axles that we are selling include 4340 35 spline alloy shafts, D60 locker of your choice, gear ratio of your choice, JK tone rings and ABS and ESP, One-ton steering knuckles and one ton chromoly steering tie rod, they come standard with Drive Flanges, Warn Lockouts optional, heavy duty suspension brackets, and a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Comes with 1350 Yoke, choice of 1310 or 1330.
JK Forum Price w/ ARB/OX: $6359.49
JK Forum Price w/ Detroit: $6117.29


The Custom Currie/G2 Rear Axles that we are selling include 4340 35 spline alloy shafts dual drilled, D60 locker of your choice, gear ratio of your choice, heavy duty suspension brackets, choice of stock JK size bearings or Set 80 one ton bearings. Comes with 1350 Yoke, choice of 1310 or 1330.

JK Forum Pricing
Set 10 Bearings w/ Detroit: $ 3286.09
w/ ARB :$ 3652.19

Set 80 Big bearing w. Detroit: $3504.99
w/ ARB : $3798.89

G2 is a reputable drivetrain part manufacture, that carries parts for all Axles. Most drivetrain parts including G2 is made in the same foundries and shops just rebadged, and in most parts come from overseas. Also any of the components can be covered by our No questions Lifetime Warranty, for 10% of the axle price.

Give me a call or PM me if you have any further questions.

Holy cow...see, who really needs a speedo. $$$!!!

[Marine]

I just thought I would post up and give my two cents. I have now been running Dynatrac ProRock 60's front and rear on my JK with the Tereflex 4" LCG long arm kit.

Here are my pros and cons list:

PROS:
1.) Absolutely the most beefy and solid built axle I have seen
2.) Very high quality on the welds and shipment
3.) Did I mention BEEFY (I had to buy an engine hoist to move the front around)
4.) Complete support for the ABS system on the JK with no issues
5.) Custom Iron center section that has 0.5" think 3.5" diameter tube pressed into it and then roset welded in place (no tiny set screwes holding the tubes in place)


CONS:
1.) I ordered and told them I was installing PSC hydro ram assist, but the front bracket doesn't support that without modification

Now, the true sign of if I think they are woth the $$ (They are more expensive than curries and Tereflexs setup). Yes, I would definetly buy again but would MAKE SURE that they bracketry on the front axle is what I am expecting and works with my mods.

I thought long and hard about the Currie setup (tereflex wasn't ready when I did my build) and to be honest, i would have saved about 900 - $1000 on the axles had I gone with Currie. But, I wasn't willing to get the thinner tubes that are bolted into an aluminum center section.

Here are a few photos of my Dynatrac ProRocks:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5734.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5739.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5764.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5768.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/Dynatrac005.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/Dynatrac007.jpg

[maverick]

I hope to make this mod one of these days. Great info on this thread. I am rather envious! Have fun!

I just thought I would post up and give my two cents. I have now been running Dynatrac ProRock 60's front and rear on my JK with the Tereflex 4" LCG long arm kit.

Here are my pros and cons list:

PROS:
1.) Absolutely the most beefy and solid built axle I have seen
2.) Very high quality on the welds and shipment
3.) Did I mention BEEFY (I had to buy an engine hoist to move the front around)
4.) Complete support for the ABS system on the JK with no issues
5.) Custom Iron center section that has 0.5" think 3.5" diameter tube pressed into it and then roset welded in place (no tiny set screwes holding the tubes in place)


CONS:
1.) I ordered and told them I was installing PSC hydro ram assist, but the front bracket doesn't support that without modification

Now, the true sign of if I think they are woth the $$ (They are more expensive than curries and Tereflexs setup). Yes, I would definetly buy again but would MAKE SURE that they bracketry on the front axle is what I am expecting and works with my mods.

I thought long and hard about the Currie setup (tereflex wasn't ready when I did my build) and to be honest, i would have saved about 900 - $1000 on the axles had I gone with Currie. But, I wasn't willing to get the thinner tubes that are bolted into an aluminum center section.

Here are a few photos of my Dynatrac ProRocks:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5734.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5739.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5764.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/DSC_5768.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/Dynatrac005.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l27/Marine660/JK%20Build/Dynatrac007.jpg

[bcrouse]

Will any of the D60s fit a 16" wheel? I know the fronts get a bigger disc for the brakes......just wondering what the minimum wheel size is?

[seer1]

Come on, admit it. You wanted to buy an engine hoist anyway. Isn't getting a new tool to install a new mod half the fun?

[Marine]

Will any of the D60s fit a 16" wheel? I know the fronts get a bigger disc for the brakes......just wondering what the minimum wheel size is?

I got the "big brake kit" and the minimum was 17" not sure if you get the stock size brakes?

[bcrouse]

I got the "big brake kit" and the minimum was 17" not sure if you get the stock size brakes?

So far I've found....

Currie - "13" vented rotors (over 1" greater diameter than stock for increased braking)"

Dynatrac - "Upgraded disc brake assembly"

TeraFlex - can only find the rear that that says reuses stock brakes like the rest of the rears.

[Stuka]

I got the "big brake kit" and the minimum was 17" not sure if you get the stock size brakes?

Yes you can. You can either order the locker hubs with bigger brakes, or you can use the stock outers so you can keep the 5x5 lug pattern, along with stock brakes.

But thats kind of a waste IMHO. Use the stock outer shafts and smaller brakes. You have to change lug patterns anyway, might as well get new wheels.

[Marine]

Come on, admit it. You wanted to buy an engine hoist anyway. Isn't getting a new tool to install a new mod half the fun?

Yeah...it really is kind of nice to have that anyway. It supports my next mod (HEMI POWER).

[bcrouse]

Yes you can. You can either order the locker hubs with bigger brakes, or you can use the stock outers so you can keep the 5x5 lug pattern, along with stock brakes.

But thats kind of a waste IMHO. Use the stock outer shafts and smaller brakes. You have to change lug patterns anyway, might as well get new wheels.

Changing out the wheels are cheap (relatively speaking).....changing out the wheels and tires, not so much. I dont really care about having to buy new 5x5.5 wheels, what I really care about is whether it will fit with a 16" wheel....not about the bolt pattern.

[Piginajeep]

its kinda a waste install a 60 an not have lockouts, if your going to keep the stock outters you might as well keep the 44 IMO..

[bcrouse]

its kinda a waste install a 60 an not have lockouts, if your going to keep the stock outters you might as well keep the 44 IMO..

/sigh

I dont want to keep the stock outters. Do any of the D60s fit with a 16" wheel......YES or NO (back to kindergarden...please circle one)

[Dynatrac]

/sigh

I dont want to keep the stock outters. Do any of the D60s fit with a 16" wheel......YES or NO (back to kindergarden...please circle one)

Yes, you can use a 16" wheel on some D60 ProRock configurations. If you go with 5 on 5.5" BP or 6 on 5.5" BP you can use 16" wheels. This system will use a 11.25" rotor and single piston caliper. If you go to the 'Big brake option, you can use virtually any BP but you'll need 17" wheels. The 'Big Brake' option provides a 13.25" rotor and a dual piston caliper.

As for Marine's coments about the Ram bracket requiring modification: The bracktry on JKs (and TJs) is very elaborate. Different suspensions require different placement and even tuning of the suspension can require movement of brackets. With all the different brackets and their required alignment with tie rods, drag links, track bars, steering stops and steering rams it's amazing that you can get it all to fit without lots of trial and error fitment.

We really try to get all the proper brackets in their proper locations but it seems like no 2 rigs are close in layout, much less exactly alike. Getting it right the first time is our goal. We know our customer can buy Dana 60's for less money but we take pride in building a premium product, built with the best possible parts. We really appreciate your support. :beer:

Scott

[bcrouse]

Yes, you can use a 16" wheel on some D60 ProRock configurations. If you go with 5 on 5.5" BP or 6 on 5.5" BP you can use 16" wheels. This system will use a 11.25" rotor and single piston caliper.


Scott

Thanks Scott. Thats what I wanted to know. One can always upgrade to the big brake kit at a later date as well, correct?

[Dynatrac]

Thanks Scott. Thats what I wanted to know. One can always upgrade to the big brake kit at a later date as well, correct?

Not usually because we don't want to sell it for some other mfgrs front end (we can't be sure it would fit). To add to one of our existing axles??? the question hasn't come up but I think we could work it out. Honestly it would be better to do it when you order first to get the proper brake bias and stopping power. The big brake kit was designed BECAUSE of the JK. It NEEDS bigger brakes (especially with large tires).

Scott

[Marine]

Not usually because we don't want to sell it for some other mfgrs front end (we can't be sure it would fit). To add to one of our existing axles??? the question hasn't come up but I think we could work it out. Honestly it would be better to do it when you order first to get the proper brake bias and stopping power. The big brake kit was designed BECAUSE of the JK. It NEEDS bigger brakes (especially with large tires).

Scott



I couldn't agree more! I have been VERY impressed with thier big brake kit and can say that my JK unlimited with 37" tires stops better than it did stock with this brake kit.

Again, I want to tell everyone that I am VERY pleased with the axles and I agree with Dynatrac that getting the brackets perfect is difficult...Very nice product guys and I hope to never have to buy a axle shaft or have to worry about bent tubes or ground gears. :thumbsup:

I may not have the largest rig (42"+ tires) but I feel that with these axles I can ride with no fear of having to be towed out of the trail because of axle problems.