2011/2012 "OFFROAD" Cluster of Switches - Add to Sahara
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2011/2012 "OFFROAD" Cluster of Switches - Add to Sahara
Does anyone have a good picture of the back of this switch group? Also any idea of how it is mounted to the dash panel? It is only included on the Rubicon.
I have a Sahara and am considering buying this switch group to use for a factory look for switching on my LEDs.
Any thoughts?
I have a Sahara and am considering buying this switch group to use for a factory look for switching on my LEDs.
Any thoughts?
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A Little Odd - But Yes
I know the idea sounds a little odd - but Yes. I am really a stickler about a stock look, so I was thinking of ordering the stock disco switch group, and using those switches for controling my lights.
But I am not sure (and the Mopar site dosnt give any detail) what the back of the switches look like. How do they mount, could they even be used to control lights, or relays for lights.
My other more simple option is just to hide some of the 'typical' switches under the dash. I know this is the easy way, but Im not all about easy.
But I am not sure (and the Mopar site dosnt give any detail) what the back of the switches look like. How do they mount, could they even be used to control lights, or relays for lights.
My other more simple option is just to hide some of the 'typical' switches under the dash. I know this is the easy way, but Im not all about easy.
#5
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What you are attempting to do won't work. Here is a nice way of hiding the switch and making it look good. I've also attached a picture of the switch panel where the hazards are taken apart. I think the Rubi switch panel is similar.
#6
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's going to be near impossible to have those "off-road" switches do anything other than what they're supposed to do — they are proprietary switches, one being a momentary STSP, the other being a center-off momentary DTDP ... and on top of that they're CANBUS controlled with a small printed circuit board on the backside. You'd literally have to gut the board off, figure out how the switches are wired, run a switched power to them (after figuring out the interconnect situation) and use them to trigger relays since they're low amperage switches. It's really not worth the effort.
Honestly, and I'm pretty keen on keeping everything stock looking except for my switch choices (quality toggle switches from McMaster.com), I would get the new Rugged Ridge A-pillar switch pod from Q-tec whenever it's released. Then throw your choice of stock looking switches in there, whether they be standard toggles or otherwise. That way, there's no drilling into factory plastics, and can be converted back to stock simply.
Note: at the moment, Q-tec has the switch pod (linky here) listed as the '11-12 model ... I think this is incorrect. The older pods will fit the newer interior, but the texture/color doesn't match and there's a small gap at the bottom of the panel since it was made for the '07-10 interior. RR has said they are working on a new pod to match the new interior that should come out this spring (haven't heard yet). The RR p/n for the pod is 17235.56 (found on their site here) ... the one listed on Q-tec is 17235.58. WHen I spoke to a CSR at Q-tec, he said that p/n has been in their system since Nov. '11, which shouldn't be right. I have to get to the bottom of this because I want to order this myself ...
Honestly, and I'm pretty keen on keeping everything stock looking except for my switch choices (quality toggle switches from McMaster.com), I would get the new Rugged Ridge A-pillar switch pod from Q-tec whenever it's released. Then throw your choice of stock looking switches in there, whether they be standard toggles or otherwise. That way, there's no drilling into factory plastics, and can be converted back to stock simply.
Note: at the moment, Q-tec has the switch pod (linky here) listed as the '11-12 model ... I think this is incorrect. The older pods will fit the newer interior, but the texture/color doesn't match and there's a small gap at the bottom of the panel since it was made for the '07-10 interior. RR has said they are working on a new pod to match the new interior that should come out this spring (haven't heard yet). The RR p/n for the pod is 17235.56 (found on their site here) ... the one listed on Q-tec is 17235.58. WHen I spoke to a CSR at Q-tec, he said that p/n has been in their system since Nov. '11, which shouldn't be right. I have to get to the bottom of this because I want to order this myself ...
#7
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Many Thanks -
Many Thanks for the info so far.
A little additional background -
My lights are all LED they are actually a light bar and hide away strobe LEDs for the volunteer FD. So I need two switches, one to turn them on/off and one to cycle through the flash patterns. They should be VERY low power/current draw.
I knew the switches were momentary, and I thougth I could use that to activate a relay that would then actually turn my lights on. And the momentary action is perfect for the cycle portion.
I also thoght the switches were pretty simple and there would be tabs on the circuit board I could solder leads to the relays.
But - I can always hide siwtches under the dash instead.
A little additional background -
My lights are all LED they are actually a light bar and hide away strobe LEDs for the volunteer FD. So I need two switches, one to turn them on/off and one to cycle through the flash patterns. They should be VERY low power/current draw.
I knew the switches were momentary, and I thougth I could use that to activate a relay that would then actually turn my lights on. And the momentary action is perfect for the cycle portion.
I also thoght the switches were pretty simple and there would be tabs on the circuit board I could solder leads to the relays.
But - I can always hide siwtches under the dash instead.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Junkie
It is possible to use a switch in any configuration and make it do what you want it to do. But only if the hardware is available in a 12 volt rateing. And if the owner is willing to live with the labels being incorrect.
#9
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Many Thanks for the info so far.
A little additional background -
My lights are all LED they are actually a light bar and hide away strobe LEDs for the volunteer FD. So I need two switches, one to turn them on/off and one to cycle through the flash patterns. They should be VERY low power/current draw.
I knew the switches were momentary, and I thougth I could use that to activate a relay that would then actually turn my lights on. And the momentary action is perfect for the cycle portion.
I also thoght the switches were pretty simple and there would be tabs on the circuit board I could solder leads to the relays.
But - I can always hide siwtches under the dash instead.
A little additional background -
My lights are all LED they are actually a light bar and hide away strobe LEDs for the volunteer FD. So I need two switches, one to turn them on/off and one to cycle through the flash patterns. They should be VERY low power/current draw.
I knew the switches were momentary, and I thougth I could use that to activate a relay that would then actually turn my lights on. And the momentary action is perfect for the cycle portion.
I also thoght the switches were pretty simple and there would be tabs on the circuit board I could solder leads to the relays.
But - I can always hide siwtches under the dash instead.
BTW, that Rugged Ridge A-pillar pod p/n 17235.58 IS indeed for the '11-12 JK ... got an email back from them last night.
#10
JK Junkie
It wouldn't be impossible, it's just that no one's done it yet so there's very little information on how to go about it. The swaybar switch is simple enough, and appears to just be a SPST momentary switch. Push once the swaybar disconnects — press again and it reconnects (on/off). The locker switch on the other hand is a bit more complex in that center does nothing, down cycles between rear locked and both front & rear locked, and up disconnects all lockers. You'd have to take a multimeter to each, as there's definitely going to be more than two poles. It'd be nice if we could get a pinout of the switch panel's connectors ... but Chrysler refuses to provide proper documentation to their customers anymore. It's not even available, unless you talk your dealer into letting you take a peak.
BTW, that Rugged Ridge A-pillar pod p/n 17235.58 IS indeed for the '11-12 JK ... got an email back from them last night.
BTW, that Rugged Ridge A-pillar pod p/n 17235.58 IS indeed for the '11-12 JK ... got an email back from them last night.