Collyn

Sorry. Just noticed the Pioneer part. The speaker leads that are not used behind the radio (built in HU power) could be shorting to each other or ground. On this deck it will totally MUTE the full range....even the RCA full range until the short is released. It can be loose and only touch under acceleration. Check the white, grey, purple, and green wires and their corresponding negatives to make sure they are completely insulated from each other and anything. One other thing....check the yellow w/black stripe wire for contact to ground. That is the mute wire. It only needs a ground signal to totally mute the full range. It's a carry over and only used with add on navs and some other older options.

But still sounds like a RCA or ground issue.

bfrench7

Collyn has good points for troubleshooting.

Here's how I would tackle this.

First I'd verify ground for both amps are good clean chassis grounds. Make sure theres no paint or plastic between the terminals and metal.
Second, I'd verify ALL Connections are solid, RCAs, and Remote Turn on included.

One Issue I've seen with Jeep Audio is that people often tap a Low Current Accy or Ignition wire for Amp turn on. You now have 3 amps on that line, thats a minimal 450 mA draw which can cause a HUGE difference in potential on a low current wire.
So once you've verified all connections are solid, run the system at mid to 3/4 volume, have someone watch your amps as you accelerate (Also try just a rev in neutral/park and see if the issue replicates) If the amps turn off or go into protect, We've got another issue somewhere else, possibly in the amp.

Just curious, what kind of amps? Sorry if I missed this Info..

EDIT: And does it cut out regardless of Volume levels?

RHD-Manx2

Thanks for replying Collyn. I've read your posts in other threads and I hoped my post would draw some feedback from you and others who are very versed in MECP.

I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to mobile audio as you have identified from the lack of detailed description in my initial post; I know I know - I gotta help you - help me.

So cutting out to me: All sound to my front and rear mid/high channels stop emitting audio.

When you say intermittent open circuit, do you mean open circuit with the 12v DC power or the audio circuit to the channels? !2VDC is maintained at the amps when I lose the mids/highs.

Running the initial JVC KW-AVX830 head unit, the front/rear mids and highs were on a 2 channel CE M1 amp h t t p :// cedarslink.com/mini.html (this is because the JVC head unit only had 1 RCA preout for subs, not a red/white pair) This setup was horrid as I had no front/rear fade adjustment. The front RCA pre-outs from the deck were ran to the mids/high amp and the rear RCA preouts were used for the subwoofer. With this setup, my mids and highs would distort to a fuzzing sound for 10-20 seconds then stop emitting audio for 10-20 seconds and come back. I thought this was because of the way the mids and highs were on the front RCA preout, and had 4 speakers wired to a 2 channel amp.

I hated knowing the above config and bought a Pioneer AVH-4000NEX head unit and added an additional 2 channel CE M1 amp to seperate the fron and rear speakers on individual channels. ( I know this could all have been consolidated to a 4-channel amp - 6 ways one way, half a dozen another. My goal was to hide all of the equipment and the size of the amps worked for what we were trying to accomplish.) With the new head unit and additional amp, I do not have distortion but the mids/highs still stop emitting audio.

As for loose wiring, I've done the tightness check at the amps for power/ground/remote/RCA's- But I have not checked under the hood or at the speaker connections individually.

I may not be keen on RMS/OHM's/Crossover audio jargon but I am very well versed with a voltmeter and wiring diagrams so I am certain I can trouble-shoot and assist in resolving the issue but I did spend good money to have a "professional" install this system for me so i know I have to give him a chance to fix it. My installer seems to be stumped and I have suggested to swap the RCA cables as you posted above but he is adamant about it possibly being a hardware issue on Cedarlink's part. He is wanting to take my Jeep to the manufacturer on Tuesday but I am having a hard time allowing so many untrusted hands touch my Jeep at this point. Something I always have had trouble with because I am an OCD type of person when it comes to quality and craftsmanship...

I hope some of the information I provided can help with brain storming some more trouble-shooting tips.

Thank you!

RHD-Manx2

I did notice when he pulled the head unit out that the unused speaker leads and other wires were not capped off. i will be sure to isolate those from shorting to each other or ground.

Thanks again!

RHD-Manx2

Thank you for making the time to type some replies. You and Collyn have some really good tips for me, seems I am talking to the right professionals.

I am not certain what wire is tapped into to provide remote power for the amps. From my unprofessional experience, most solid after-market head units will have a designated "Remote" wire for this purpose right? Which is what I am certain the installer used to provide remote for the 3 amps. If 450mA is the normal draw for any one amp on the remote circuit, is the only way to provide adequate amperage for "remote" is to run a custom circuit with a manual switch to turn the amps on and off?

Because it is drive by wire and only loses audio when I am feeding the accelerator with a sudden change, I was thinking the amp draw from the gas pedal signal was causing the mids/highs to cut out until the amp draw from the gas pedal settled out. Am I far off base with this theory?

The audio cuts out at any volume, sorry if I did not mention this earlier. While this is occurring the amps do not turn off, I had the installer with a volt meter at the amps while this was occurring, the 12vdc was maintained and the amps stayed on.

The brand of amps is Cedarslink, a local company I've never heard of in the Bay Area.

RHD-Manx2

Just some background on the equipment installed. I did not want to spend top $ on a high end system as I do not have a garage to park my Jeep in, it is in a community garage and I'd really be out of it if I spent a ton of $ on something that somebody else may want more than me.

So I turned to my buddy who runs a custom audio shop to put together a low-end system to fit my needs: be stealth, and provide clear/loud kids/highs and adequate bass with or without the hard top.

He vouched for the company Cedarslink w w w. cedarslink .com, who was excited to work with his company and use my Jeep as a mobile marketing project. Initially I wanted to run Alpine components and whatever subwoofers would provide the most thump under the front seats. With amps, I always liked PPI but did not want to spend PPI $ on this system so I was not picky about what we would use. The JVC head unit I had sitting around for the last 2-3 years and had never installed it. It was acquired by a trade from a friend long ago...

So when he chose to use their components and amps, I was ok with the choice entrusting his professional opinion. Now with the issues we are facing I am not so impressed.

Parts list:

1 - Pioneer AVH-4000NEX head unit
4 - MK-602 2-way coax (Front/Rear)
2 - MK-2T Tweeters
2 - CE M1 480w 2 channel amps (Front/Rear)
1 - LK-1200C 2 CHANNEL MOSFET POWER AMPLIFIER (Subwoofers)
2 - Kicker CVT102 10' Subwoofers

I have blown 2 of the MK-602 coax's in the last 2 weeks - not even at full volume or pushing the gain on the amps.

I am on the fence about returning all of their gear and going another route if I can't get this right. I don't think the coax's should blow the way they are. I do believe in the old adage of "You get what you pay for" and I am debating on going all high end with the amps and components if Cedarslink cannot get their act straight.

Being professional MECP's, what are your impressions of the specs of the equipment?

Thanks!

bfrench7

Love the NEX and the CVT.

Everything else is kinda.... meh for me.

The issues you're having are a little concerning because you had a similar issue with a different radio and different amp config.

I'm very interested to see how this turns out for you and I hope you find a resolution quickly!

RHD-Manx2

So I was finally able to make time for the Jeep and did some troubleshooting with my buddy at his shop today.

Checked all grounds - all ok.

Checked and capped off all unused wires from the deck - no change.

Swapped RCA cables - no change.

Swapped in a new kicker amp for rears - only fronts cut out.

Swapped in the same kicker amp for the fronts - no cutting out.

Cedarslink says they have never had issues like this and will swap out my amps under warranty. If I still have this issue after replacing the amps I'll return all of their equipment and go with another brand.

Thanks for all the trouble-shooting tips, I really appreciate it!

What is high quality as far as components and amps nowadays?

Last solid system I had consisted of a JL Audio 13.5w7 in the wedge box, 1 1000w Arc Series PPI amp, kenwood separates front and kenwood 3-ways rear with a kenwood excellon deck in my 93 integra hatchback... It had soo much bass...

I hear a lot about focal being the good stuff nowadays but have not heard any of their stuff...

What do you guys have in your Jeeps?

Mountain Man Tim

I can totally agree with you that the stock factory radio, is a piece of crap, easily un-heable with the top off, doors off, or windows rolled down. I opted to take mine with the alpine upgrade, its not audiophile or high end, but for what it cost, its a damn good upgrade over the other factory option. and you can hear it with doors/top off doing 70+ at 60-75% volume, though the base being all the way in the back loses alot of power like that, with the top on, non issue.

nukeneck

I'm certainly not an expert but have dabbled with car audio most of my adult life. I'm curious why you needed 2 480 watt amps to power 4 -6 1/2" speakers, seems like a ton of overkill. I have 1 400 watt amp for all 4 - 6 1/2's and I can't even turn it up all the way without killing the ears. Maybe I'm just old