Mattk11

Have you tried testing the voltage of the amp turn on wire while driving? Total guess here but I bet the amp turn on voltage is boarder-line too low to keep the amp on. Maybe these off brand amps are more sensitive than mainstream companies. It's possible when you step on the gas, the voltage drops slightly causing the amp to turn off. Also, sometimes people will mix up the antenna wire and the amp turn on wire when installing. I would guess yours are fine based in the amount of troubleshooting you have had to do.

Collyn

Because the amps, more than likely, really don't make anywhere close to that kind of power. The audio industry isn't regulated by anyone that forces manufacturers to publish actual power ratings. So some companies just put about anything on the box and amp and can legally claim just about any power spec they'd like. Car audio is one of those items where you REALLY GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. Even some of the better brands are climbing about the overrated band wagon. But at least somewhere on the box it will have a CEA rating with real ratings. (Kenwood is bad about this. "1200watts...CEA 220 watts rms".

A few companies, Arc Audio, Mosconi, Focal, etc...still UNDER rate amps. Or more appropriately "real world rate" their amps with .005% distortion at 12v. So a Mosconi amp that is 120 watts x 2channels will gobble up around 105 amps peak and max power would peak around 500x2channels. But, it retails for $650ish. My JL amp is rated at 1000 watts at 12-14.4volts and 1.5-4 ohms. Real world power is close to 2kwatts. It is around $1100.

Real amps? Real power? About a dollar a watt. Or more, depending on amp quality and features.

bombout800

This is all true. You really get what you pay for. To the guy that says 2 480 watt amps for 4 6.5a is too much.. Headroom is never a bad thing. Most people assume because it's loud and nothing is cracking, popping or breaking, it's alright. A dirty recording of a song, low voltage, or too much gain on an amplifier can turn into a dirty signal. This can clip the amp causing a dirty signal to the speakers. Doesn't matter what amp, what speakers, or what electrical you have, speakers can only take so much of a dirty signal. I have heard of people running 200-250 watts to a single side of a component set. Is that much power needed? Not for most people. Does it shorten the life of that speaker?? It depends on what equipment is being used and how clean the signal is. You'd be amazing at how much a speaker or subwoofer can handle on clean power. My mids/highs amp does roughly 110-115 watts per channel. My components are rated at 80 watts per side. My coax are rated at 60 per side. I think it draws roughly 50-75amps. It's not sq by any means. I don't have the equipment to make it sound the way I would ultimately like for it to. Collyn has these items! Hahah

RHD-Manx2

I tested the 12vdc remote source voltage on every amp - nothing dropped below 13vdc while the engine was running or when revving the engine- Same goes for the 12vdc source for power to each amp itself. Amp pull on remote and power did not vary- all hovered at 5.56 amps while at idle and fluctuated up a tenth while giving the engine gas.

There is something going on within the internal circuitry of the 2 480w 2 channel amps that is not liking whatever the skinny pedal is doing. They replaced the amps and I will be installing them tomorrow evening to see if anything changes. If the new amps behave the same I'll be taking all of their stuff out and spending some money on the good stuff.

I think I may have been kidding myself with good to ok expectations with a low cost brand.

RHD-Manx2

Originally I wanted 4 channels for front and rear mids and highs and I thought the 1 480w amp was 4-channels. I figured 100w to each 6 1/2 would suffice and having just a little bit more of overrated power would keep things audible going 70mph on the freeway without a top/doors. Then I saw that there was only 2 channels on the amp and the fronts and rears were sharing the 2 channels. I did not like not having control of fade... So in order to make the space I had work and keep everything hidden, I opted to install another mini amp behind the glove for the fronts. (The 1200w amp and other 480w amp are in the rear cubby.) I do have the gain turned quite down to ensure I am not over-powering the speakers. If the new amps do not clear up my issue, I will be looking for a 5 or 6 channel amp to take care of the entire system and putting some money into the best components.

It is really loud though and it does hurt my ears. I guess I'm getting old too!

RHD-Manx2

So good to have this input

RHD-Manx2

Solid info... I would like to tune my system to really get an idea of it;s potential once all is sorted through. Any idea on what that service would cost?

Collyn

buy a test cd with test tones. Measure the voltage out of the deck with a volt meter to to ac volts. Then go to the amp. Try to get a 4 to 1 voltage gain overlap. You will.... Never mind. I see where I will be going with this. I will have to do a write up for this one. It's very in depth. Most every system is different, yet the practices for getting maximum signal to noise ratio and the most useable, clean power is the same. Regardless. It helps to have a real time RTA as well.

Hell. I've seen some very high end systems that were tuned with O-scopes to "see" signal clipping. Crazy stuff.

Usually setting it by ear is pretty close to good enough. Since, in the end, you are gonna listen to it. Not measure it.

bombout800

Oscopes are not for very high end systems these days. A ton of people use them. Whether it be for sq or all out spl. They are very common now to the common folk in audio. Setting by ear is okay of course, but your ear is different than someone else's. Some people want the headunit to max out at 17/40 (really stupid) and then turn the gain up on the amp full blast, use the bass boost but set the frequency to 50??? Retarded.

Anyways take a look at this. It has to have a certain update to properly work, but it has been used by multiple people with success.
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=280801649780

CoreyZ

You said this was tied into the Canbus... right?

For what purpose? Steering wheel controls?
Have you tried taking those connections off and just using the power on/ground?