Connecting Air Compressor to sPod
#1
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Connecting Air Compressor to sPod
Quick question:
Can I run an ARB CKMA12 straight through the sPod? I've seen a few posts on forums running it direct, but the 40A fuse on the battery wire caused me to pause.
Any suggestions?
Can I run an ARB CKMA12 straight through the sPod? I've seen a few posts on forums running it direct, but the 40A fuse on the battery wire caused me to pause.
Any suggestions?
#2
No you can't. You need to wire the two 40amp fuses directly to the battery and the purple wire to the spod. The purple wire will be the switch to turn the compressor on and off.
#4
In order to run the ARB on your SPOD you need to have the ARB powered by the battery because of the amp draw, its too high for the SPOD, just use the SPOD as the on/off. You use the wiring that came with the ARB, I bought the wiring harness from SPOD for an extra $18 to make my life a whole lot easier, and then wire it up to the SPOD.
Red= ARB Pos
Blue= ARB Neg/Ground
Blue= SPOD Pos
Yellow= SPOD Neg
From the ARB you will plug in the harness that came with it, to the additional SPOD harness i bought, and then connect to SPOD ( the yellow and green are for front and rear lockers, just tape back if not needed at the moment or ever ). There is a way to connect the ARB harness to the SPOD but i am not an expert on electrical and decided to go this route so i don't have to worry about anything other than a plug an play.
Red= ARB Pos
Blue= ARB Neg/Ground
Blue= SPOD Pos
Yellow= SPOD Neg
From the ARB you will plug in the harness that came with it, to the additional SPOD harness i bought, and then connect to SPOD ( the yellow and green are for front and rear lockers, just tape back if not needed at the moment or ever ). There is a way to connect the ARB harness to the SPOD but i am not an expert on electrical and decided to go this route so i don't have to worry about anything other than a plug an play.
Last edited by mhockey9090; 03-07-2015 at 11:04 PM.
#6
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Thanks for the suggestions, unfortunately I already butchered the included harness from ARB.
I should be able to loop the ground wire through the pressure switch, and then off to the battery, and then loop the positive through the included 40A relay switched by the sPod right?
Seems like it would make for a cleaner setup - if/when I get air lockers I'll upgrade to the dual compressor model and have a new harness to not screw up.
I should be able to loop the ground wire through the pressure switch, and then off to the battery, and then loop the positive through the included 40A relay switched by the sPod right?
Seems like it would make for a cleaner setup - if/when I get air lockers I'll upgrade to the dual compressor model and have a new harness to not screw up.
#7
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If you are only running the air compressor, and not running air lockers then you do not need the sPOD wiring harness. Just take the ARB connector that has black and purple wire coming out of it and shorten it and remove the mid connection - Its been a while so I don't remember exactly what was hooked up to this, but all I did was run the purple and black wire in the photo below and run it to my sPOD. I know I had to cut some line off the black or purple wire and rewrap the wires (purple and black), but it is easy to anyone that has basic wiring knowledge. I'm not good with wiring and I was able to figure it out. On sPOD, black if GND and purple is SW#
I ran my wire down and through the plastic thing the MORE mount mounts too; against the body where there Jeep has other wires running. I don't want to pull it out to take a photo and it is virtually unseen so it is hard for me to show you pictures.
My ARB twin w/sPOD
Also I really liked the quality and ease of use of the quick disconnect that came with the ARB air up kit and made a custom bracket to hold. Works great and is solid. I made it out of some scrap 14G-15G stainless steel sheet metal my work had and then just primed/painted it textured black. Works great and easy to access for airing up. The air line tubing I am using is 5/16" OD, 1/4" ID that has a 500-700 degree plus temperature rating - it won't melt. It goes back and then down and up into the connector, it isn't the most flexible so I had to find a route that wouldn't kink it.
I ran my wire down and through the plastic thing the MORE mount mounts too; against the body where there Jeep has other wires running. I don't want to pull it out to take a photo and it is virtually unseen so it is hard for me to show you pictures.
My ARB twin w/sPOD
Also I really liked the quality and ease of use of the quick disconnect that came with the ARB air up kit and made a custom bracket to hold. Works great and is solid. I made it out of some scrap 14G-15G stainless steel sheet metal my work had and then just primed/painted it textured black. Works great and easy to access for airing up. The air line tubing I am using is 5/16" OD, 1/4" ID that has a 500-700 degree plus temperature rating - it won't melt. It goes back and then down and up into the connector, it isn't the most flexible so I had to find a route that wouldn't kink it.
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Solution
In case anyone was wondering, here's how I ended up wiring the compressor:
Main power cable w/ fuse goes to battery, then into relay (switched by the sPod), then into compressor.
Main ground cable loops through the pressure switch, then to the compressor.
I'm no electrician, but it seems to function exactly as I want it to.
Main power cable w/ fuse goes to battery, then into relay (switched by the sPod), then into compressor.
Main ground cable loops through the pressure switch, then to the compressor.
I'm no electrician, but it seems to function exactly as I want it to.
#9
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^^^ that doesn't look right if you're using a sPOD). You shouldn't need to use the relay.
All I did was run the power cables (large, should be obvious) to battery; two reds to + black to - on the battery. ARB doesn't supply ring terminals so you need to get some, two 10gauge wires, I believe, for positive (red) (for sure is yellow ring terminal) and one 8gauge wire for the ground (black) (car audio places should have the 8gauge). I also solder the wire to the ring terminal after crimping for extra measure. I ran the power wires neatly against firewall.
On/off switch was the connector I trimmed and removed unnecessaries from above.
All I did was run the power cables (large, should be obvious) to battery; two reds to + black to - on the battery. ARB doesn't supply ring terminals so you need to get some, two 10gauge wires, I believe, for positive (red) (for sure is yellow ring terminal) and one 8gauge wire for the ground (black) (car audio places should have the 8gauge). I also solder the wire to the ring terminal after crimping for extra measure. I ran the power wires neatly against firewall.
On/off switch was the connector I trimmed and removed unnecessaries from above.
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^^^ that doesn't look right if you're using a sPOD). You shouldn't need to use the relay.
All I did was run the power cables (large, should be obvious) to battery; two reds to + black to - on the battery. ARB doesn't supply ring terminals so you need to get some, two 10gauge wires, I believe, for positive (red) (for sure is yellow ring terminal) and one 8gauge wire for the ground (black) (car audio places should have the 8gauge). I also solder the wire to the ring terminal after crimping for extra measure. I ran the power wires neatly against firewall.
On/off switch was the connector I trimmed and removed unnecessaries from above.
All I did was run the power cables (large, should be obvious) to battery; two reds to + black to - on the battery. ARB doesn't supply ring terminals so you need to get some, two 10gauge wires, I believe, for positive (red) (for sure is yellow ring terminal) and one 8gauge wire for the ground (black) (car audio places should have the 8gauge). I also solder the wire to the ring terminal after crimping for extra measure. I ran the power wires neatly against firewall.
On/off switch was the connector I trimmed and removed unnecessaries from above.