Easy Switched Power Source
10-23-2011, 08:39 PM
#21
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
Yep, my M36 was blown. Thanks ronjenx! 
Strange thing is that according to the diagram in my box, M7 is #2 outlet and M36 is the #3 outlet (which doesn't exist in an '09). There is crap on my diagram that doesn't make any sense, like a spot for the power fold seat. If Chrysler is going to run generic boxes, the least they could do is pull wire into the cab off the empty spots. It would cost next to nothing on the front end and would make aftermarket installation of switches and such that much easier.
Strange thing is that according to the diagram in my box, M7 is #2 outlet and M36 is the #3 outlet (which doesn't exist in an '09). There is crap on my diagram that doesn't make any sense, like a spot for the power fold seat. If Chrysler is going to run generic boxes, the least they could do is pull wire into the cab off the empty spots. It would cost next to nothing on the front end and would make aftermarket installation of switches and such that much easier.
Edit:
Glad you got it worked out, regardless of Fuseion Confusion.
Last edited by Sharkey; 10-23-2011 at 08:51 PM.
10-23-2011, 08:51 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
You just confused me! You said you successfully changed Fuse M36, to the right outlet #3, then you say it doesn't exist on an '09.
Edit:
Glad you got it worked out, regardless of Fuseion Confusion.
Sorry, let me clarify. I have two power outlets, both on the center stack. My M36 controls the power to the right outlet on the stack, but my fuse diagram says M36 is for outlet #3. When I see #3, I think there has to be a #1 AND a #2. Apparently, #1 is the left outlet, #2 doesn't exist, and #3 is the right outlet. That just seems bass ackwards to me.
Edit: in other words, why do they call something #3 when there is no #2?
Last edited by Sharkey; 10-23-2011 at 08:54 PM.
10-23-2011, 08:54 PM
#23
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
Sorry, let me clarify. I have two power outlets, both on the center stack. My M36 controls the power to the right outlet on the stack, but my fuse diagram says M36 is for outlet #3. When I see #3, I think there has to be a #1 AND a #2. Apparently, #1 is the left outlet, #2 doesn't exist, and #3 is the right outlet. That just seems bass ackwards to me.
#2 in the back is an option.
10-23-2011, 08:59 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
That is correct; who knows why they did it that way.
#2 in the back is an option.
In any event, thanks again. I probably never would have checked the #3 fuse.
10-28-2011, 06:32 AM
#25
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Thanks for the info. Really helped me on my stereo system upgrade.
As a tip for anyone looking to do this in a 2011 JK. You can pick any 10amp fuse spot in the box. Just remember what you want the power to do. If you want it "hot" all the time, choose a fuse spot that is on all the time. If you only want power when the key is switched on, then choose a fuse that allows this. The TIPM legend for the fuses is pretty self-explanatory on the fuse functions. Also, for a clean install may need to drill a hole in the side of the TIPM for the fuse tap wire. This is only a suggestion though...
As a tip for anyone looking to do this in a 2011 JK. You can pick any 10amp fuse spot in the box. Just remember what you want the power to do. If you want it "hot" all the time, choose a fuse spot that is on all the time. If you only want power when the key is switched on, then choose a fuse that allows this. The TIPM legend for the fuses is pretty self-explanatory on the fuse functions. Also, for a clean install may need to drill a hole in the side of the TIPM for the fuse tap wire. This is only a suggestion though...
10-28-2011, 07:09 AM
#26
JK Jedi Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Really helped me on my stereo system upgrade.
As a tip for anyone looking to do this in a 2011 JK. You can pick any 10amp fuse spot in the box. Just remember what you want the power to do. If you want it "hot" all the time, choose a fuse spot that is on all the time. If you only want power when the key is switched on, then choose a fuse that allows this. The TIPM legend for the fuses is pretty self-explanatory on the fuse functions.
Also, for a clean install may need to drill a hole in the side of the TIPM for the fuse tap wire. This is only a suggestion though...
As a tip for anyone looking to do this in a 2011 JK. You can pick any 10amp fuse spot in the box. Just remember what you want the power to do. If you want it "hot" all the time, choose a fuse spot that is on all the time. If you only want power when the key is switched on, then choose a fuse that allows this. The TIPM legend for the fuses is pretty self-explanatory on the fuse functions.
Also, for a clean install may need to drill a hole in the side of the TIPM for the fuse tap wire. This is only a suggestion though...
10-28-2011, 11:42 AM
#27
JK Super Freak
Been meaning to get back here with an update.. I ended up using M7 as pictured early in this thread even though my JK didn't have the rear accessory power.. I checked the functionality and it was fine for what I needed..
Did the small hole in the side of the fuse box and wired up the CB to switched power. Perfect.
Thanks!!
Did the small hole in the side of the fuse box and wired up the CB to switched power. Perfect.
Thanks!!
01-11-2012, 08:47 AM
#29
JK Super Freak
