Help: Not all of the interior lighting works (dome, window switches, consule).
10-27-2014, 04:57 PM
#12
JK Jedi Master
My suspicion is that there is a connector that is not fully connected. It may be partially working and partially not. It may change over time as the connector moves about. Had a 1996 Saturn with a very similar issue that turned out to be exactly that. You're doing the right things to track it down, but you need the right diagrams (wish my old laptop with IE 7 hadn't died because I also used that old FSM). You can access your service manuals online. They charge a fee, but there are short duration contracts. Friend of mine actually paid for a couple weeks and printed off most of their pages--to paper! I told him he should have printed it to PDF. LOL. Anyway, go here for the manual ...
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
10-27-2014, 05:01 PM
#13
JK Jedi Master
My suspicion is that there is a connector that is not fully connected. It may be partially working and partially not. It may change over time as the connector moves about. Had a 1996 Saturn with a very similar issue that turned out to be exactly that. You're doing the right things to track it down, but you need the right diagrams (wish my old laptop with IE 7 hadn't died because I also used that old FSM). You can access your service manuals online. They charge a fee, but there are short duration contracts. Friend of mine actually paid for a couple weeks and printed off most of their pages--to paper! I told him he should have printed it to PDF. LOL. Anyway, go here for the manual ...
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/manuals/
10-27-2014, 05:03 PM
#14
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Slidell Louisiana & Osan, South Korea
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Let me do a little research on this. If you can, email me the info you have currently, like electrical schematics.... My email is john@tacticalinf.com It almost sounds like a clipped or shorted wire... But I need to do some research on this. Chasing electrical gremlins can be tricky.. Which will only be accentuated if it was wrong from the factory. It's also much harder to figure out not being about to test it myself. But I'll have a look... I like a good challenge. Hopefully Mark will have a look at this too.
I have been working under the assumption that the dome circuit is a power-seeking circuit, but I am starting to wonder if its actually a ground-seeking circuit with the way it acts after my rewire.
10-27-2014, 05:14 PM
#15
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Slidell Louisiana & Osan, South Korea
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My suspicion is that there is a connector that is not fully connected. It may be partially working and partially not. It may change over time as the connector moves about. Had a 1996 Saturn with a very similar issue that turned out to be exactly that. You're doing the right things to track it down, but you need the right diagrams (wish my old laptop with IE 7 hadn't died because I also used that old FSM). You can access your service manuals online. They charge a fee, but there are short duration contracts. Friend of mine actually paid for a couple weeks and printed off most of their pages--to paper! I told him he should have printed it to PDF. LOL. Anyway, go here for the manual ...
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx
EDIT: Ok, don't waste money on the so called service manuals from ALLDATAdiy. It had some good reads, but it has ZERO schematics/diagrams on anything other than Engine or Charging systems.
Last edited by aaron97; 10-27-2014 at 07:57 PM.
10-28-2014, 12:08 AM
#16
JK Jedi Master
I did stumble on to that site in my searching, but I am very hesitant to spend $135 for CD without knowing if its really for 2011 or just the typical manuals that group 2011 in with 2007+. I also found a site called AllDataDIY or something close to that and they claim to have service manuals for $16/yr. But cant find any info on whether or not they are legit.
EDIT: Ok, don't waste money on the so called service manuals from ALLDATAdiy. It had some good reads, but it has ZERO schematics/diagrams on anything other than Engine or Charging systems.
EDIT: Ok, don't waste money on the so called service manuals from ALLDATAdiy. It had some good reads, but it has ZERO schematics/diagrams on anything other than Engine or Charging systems.
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/...chematics.aspx
Good luck!
Last edited by Mark Doiron; 10-28-2014 at 12:11 AM.
10-28-2014, 01:29 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Slidell Louisiana & Osan, South Korea
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That site seems to be the same info as the ALLDATAdiy site. I am hesitant because what I noticed earlier on TechAuthority is for '07-09 is says "includes wiring diagrams and schematics" but for '10 and up they all have big bold "IT DOES NOT CONTAIN THE TRADITIONAL WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION" and only has diagrams relevant to troubleshooting DTC's.
10-28-2014, 02:10 AM
#18
JK Junkie
Since the door lock switches and dome light both relate to the doors, I would check all the door electrical connections to make sure nothing is unplugged or not seated. Maybe even when they were working on the amp they unhooked a door strap to open it more and stretched out the door wires. The gear indicator lights may be tied to the same feed. Just a thought and easy to check.
10-28-2014, 02:50 AM
#19
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Slidell Louisiana & Osan, South Korea
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting dark at 5pm sucks. Get off work at 3pm and you only get 2 hours of light. Makes me really miss my extremely well lit garage back home.
I was able to get some more time in with a multimeter.. and came across some interesting things. I disconnected the Cargo light and the Dome light at the soundbar, to remove them form the possibilities for now.
1. Checking the YL/WT coming out the back of the Instrument Cluster. Doors Closed, Ignition Off, Dimmer Switch to Full bright. At this point I see 4.6v. Turn dimmer to Dome and it goes to 12+. Turn dimmer back to full bright, voltage goes back to 4.6v. Open driver side door and it goes back to 12+v. Close the door and it stays 12v for about 30 seconds and then goes to 4.6v. (also I was using the ground stud in left footwell for tests)
2. Checking the YL/BL coming out the back of the Instrument Cluster... 12v+ constant. (also I was using the ground stud in left footwell for tests)
At this point I had the engine running so I wouldn't drain the battery too much. And I started using the black ground wire from C308 connector.
3. Checking YL/WT at connector C308 before sound bar (chassis side). Door closed and Dome off, it had 11.1v, open the right rear passenger door and it would go to 12.3v. Close door and goes back to 11.1v. (I need to try this with engine off because I am curious if this would actually drop down to the 4.6v like it does at the cluster).
4. Checking YL/BL at connector C308 before sound bar (chassis side). Door closed and Dome off, it had 14.1v and does not change regardless of door or dimmer switch placement.
So I can conclude that the Cluster does acknowledge that doors are opening and closing and that it responds to the Dome On detent on the blinker lever, so it wants to do what its supposed to do.... however, what's the deal with this mysterious voltage staying on the circuit after everything should be powered off?
5. Checked the OR/GY wire coming out the back of the cluster, HVAC, console, and everywhere else I could find it... it was completely dead. Even tried using different grounding locations and wires, to include the ground wires coming out the back of the cluster.
6. I then decided what the hell, lets see what happens when I do this... and I jumped a hot 12v wire onto the OR/GY wire coming out the back of the Power window switches and to my amazement.... I have light! Every light that didn't light up before was lit (window switches, shifter indication, drivers side power door lock button).
One thing I noticed is the rear seat window switches, they're switch lights only come on with ignition On/Acc, and the only when the front window switch are plugged in and that they rear window lockout button cuts power to rear seat switch set, to include cutting off the green LED lights.
I've pretty much got the whole chassis harness down the passenger side uncovered. I checked all the wiring, grounds, pins, factory splicing. Everything look good. Was surprised to see the Dome light wires run all the way to rear, then splice together with the Cargo light and then run all the way back up the front. I got as much of the center console taken apart as I plan to. There is a large connecter under the cup hold area that I can not see well. So I guess if worse comes to worse, I will have to dissect the console even further.
I was able to get some more time in with a multimeter.. and came across some interesting things. I disconnected the Cargo light and the Dome light at the soundbar, to remove them form the possibilities for now.
1. Checking the YL/WT coming out the back of the Instrument Cluster. Doors Closed, Ignition Off, Dimmer Switch to Full bright. At this point I see 4.6v. Turn dimmer to Dome and it goes to 12+. Turn dimmer back to full bright, voltage goes back to 4.6v. Open driver side door and it goes back to 12+v. Close the door and it stays 12v for about 30 seconds and then goes to 4.6v. (also I was using the ground stud in left footwell for tests)
2. Checking the YL/BL coming out the back of the Instrument Cluster... 12v+ constant. (also I was using the ground stud in left footwell for tests)
At this point I had the engine running so I wouldn't drain the battery too much. And I started using the black ground wire from C308 connector.
3. Checking YL/WT at connector C308 before sound bar (chassis side). Door closed and Dome off, it had 11.1v, open the right rear passenger door and it would go to 12.3v. Close door and goes back to 11.1v. (I need to try this with engine off because I am curious if this would actually drop down to the 4.6v like it does at the cluster).
4. Checking YL/BL at connector C308 before sound bar (chassis side). Door closed and Dome off, it had 14.1v and does not change regardless of door or dimmer switch placement.
So I can conclude that the Cluster does acknowledge that doors are opening and closing and that it responds to the Dome On detent on the blinker lever, so it wants to do what its supposed to do.... however, what's the deal with this mysterious voltage staying on the circuit after everything should be powered off?
5. Checked the OR/GY wire coming out the back of the cluster, HVAC, console, and everywhere else I could find it... it was completely dead. Even tried using different grounding locations and wires, to include the ground wires coming out the back of the cluster.
6. I then decided what the hell, lets see what happens when I do this... and I jumped a hot 12v wire onto the OR/GY wire coming out the back of the Power window switches and to my amazement.... I have light! Every light that didn't light up before was lit (window switches, shifter indication, drivers side power door lock button).
One thing I noticed is the rear seat window switches, they're switch lights only come on with ignition On/Acc, and the only when the front window switch are plugged in and that they rear window lockout button cuts power to rear seat switch set, to include cutting off the green LED lights.
I've pretty much got the whole chassis harness down the passenger side uncovered. I checked all the wiring, grounds, pins, factory splicing. Everything look good. Was surprised to see the Dome light wires run all the way to rear, then splice together with the Cargo light and then run all the way back up the front. I got as much of the center console taken apart as I plan to. There is a large connecter under the cup hold area that I can not see well. So I guess if worse comes to worse, I will have to dissect the console even further.
10-28-2014, 03:07 AM
#20
JK Jedi Master
That site seems to be the same info as the ALLDATAdiy site. I am hesitant because what I noticed earlier on TechAuthority is for '07-09 is says "includes wiring diagrams and schematics" but for '10 and up they all have big bold "IT DOES NOT CONTAIN THE TRADITIONAL WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION" and only has diagrams relevant to troubleshooting DTC's.