aaron97

Did that a couple days ago. Disconnected all harnesses, inspected pins. I even educated myself on how our newer Jeeps work with the door switch.

When the door is closed, it creates an open circuit, and when the door is open, it closes the circuit to send a signal to the TIPM and the TIPM in turn sends out a message over the CAN bus and that's how the instrument cluster finds out a door is ajar. The door switches are all wired in a series, so regardless which door you open, the TIPM only gets one signal. So by disconnecting all doors at the connector, you are creating an open circuit and as far as TIPM can tell, it thinks all the door are installed and closed. This is why on newer JK's you don't get a door ajar light when you take off all the doors. The instrument cluster gets another signal from somewhere in the driver
side door switch to let it know the Driver door is open and its only purpose to illuminate the odometer when the ignition is OFF, the service manual calls this "Rental Car Mode" for some reason.

aaron97

Ya, I need to contact my home town buddies and see if anyone has a local dealer connection. I'm set with connections in my GM/Pontiac world, but not so much in the Jeep/Dodge/Chrysler area.

It blows to own a car that's covered under warranty and actually need work to be done, but have no where to take it. Jeep dealers here in Korea, WILL NOT provide warranty service to Jeeps not sold in Korea as Export Jeeps. Even though I bought my Jeep here, its a US Spec Jeep sold on the US market. So I am supposed to use some little trashy shop mandated by Exchange New Car Sales (aka Military Car Sales). That's the equivalent of taking this problem to the high school kids at Jiffy Lube and letting them try to fix it. Even IF they could find the problem, if it required a replacement part, it takes months to get the part here. It took 2 months just to get a replacement amplifier.

14Sport

What I would do next is trace the OR/GY wire from the window switches back to it's prior connector and check for voltage there. If no voltage I would trace back from there to its previous connector and so on. Once you find voltage then run a continuity test from that connector back forward to the last connector you checked. A stretched wire can break internally while leaving the insulation intact. Without a schematic, that is the only way I can think of to find it. Sounds like you really know what you're doing so good luck...you'll find it I'm sure.

aaron97

I did check each component that has an OR/GY wire and it was dead at all locations, and I check all connectors. From the schematics that I do have, the OR/GY power source originates from the Instrument Cluster. I checked the wire at the cluster and its always dead. What I haven't been able to locator or verify is where does the cluster get its power source from that it uses to power the OR/GY wire. The cluster does have multiple 12v in sources and it could be that the power source going into the cluster is dead and that's why it has no power coming out.


But, I think there is a more prevalent issue to address... why is there 4.6 volts sitting on my courtesy light wire, when it should be in an open (0v) status?

14Sport

That is a good question. I have read when checking for a short you have to wait at least 10 minutes before checking because the Jeep does continue to use power after shutdown for about that amount of time. Did you check the voltage at the dome after the door had been closed for at least 10 minutes?

aaron97

I took my dome light to work with me today and put it on a bench tester at 10v to figure out its circuit paths. I see now that it was wired correctly however the wire color locations do not match up with the diagrams.

Unfortunately I'm not going to get another chance to dig in more until this weekend.

aaron97

Had a couple minutes before I went to work today, so grabbed the multimeter again and played some more.

The YL/BL wire out the back of the cluster is a mystery to me... When the ignition is off, I get 4.6v and if you use the dome switch on the dimmer, it will go to 12v. If you open the door it will go to 12v. Close the door and 30 seconds later is will go back down to 4.6v. Turn the ignition to ACC or ON and it instantly goes to 12-14v. All the while, the YL/WT wire is dead under all conditions.

I think I am going to try ordering a new instrument cluster and see what happens, since the cluster is the brain of the whole system. EDIT: Was going to shotgun a part, but instrument clusters are $370~

aaron97

Starting to believe 2011 is just a screwball year. I have now come across multiple posts by different 2011 owners over several different thread concerning wiring related to dome lights. Mostly threads about wiring in LED footwell lighting to the dome switch. Several 2011 owners stated that they could not get power off the YL/WT wire going to the Dome light.

s42000

Did OP ever get a resolution to this?

rikart

I would like to know as well. I have the two door 2011 black ops and have the same problem. Dash lights work with dimmer but the dome, window, and gear shift are out and no power to the orange/grey wire?