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Ignition Switch Problem.... I think

Old 08-18-2015, 03:27 PM
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Unhappy Ignition Switch Problem.... I think

I did a voltage test on the starter solenoid from the ignition switch wire and got no volts when I had someone turn the key to start.
So I decided to use a screw driver and bypass it by placing the screw driver on the hot red wire and the ignition bolt to fire up the "faulty ignition switch". And it started to crank! but wouldn't fully start up it just cranks and cranks when I use the screw driver but doesn't fully turn on. Any ideas?

I am at this problem because I previously tried wiring some halo rings on my headlights and taped into the empty seat warmer fuse so the lights come on when I turn the Jeep on. Problem is the lights and everything work fine but now my car won't even turn on or crank.


(I already took the battery to get load tested and it was fine and I cleaned all ground connections as well)
Old 08-18-2015, 03:43 PM
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The reason it it is not starting when you jump the start is due to the security system.

I did a quick search and here is a wiring diagram. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dj...4052_start.png

You may have blow a fuse. Check from power coming in to the switch.
Old 08-18-2015, 03:55 PM
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First, remove the fuse tap and see if the JK starts.

If it still doesn't start...

The seat warmer circuit gets power from the main bus DC through the RUN relay. It should have no effect on starter operation.

The power the starter solenoid should be getting comes from the main DC bus, through fuse J17, through the starter relay contacts, down to the solenoid, where you did the screwdriver test.

Have someone try to start the engine while you listen to the starter relay in the TIPM. If you hear/feel it click, it is getting the signal to close from the TIPM circuit board. The problem would have to be from fuse J17 on down to the starter.

If you don't hear/feel it click, the problem could be anywhere from the key to the TIPM.

Here is a picture showing the starter relay and fuse J17:


Last edited by ronjenx; 08-18-2015 at 04:00 PM.
Old 08-18-2015, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
First, remove the fuse tap and see if the JK starts.

If it still doesn't start...

The seat warmer circuit gets power from the main bus DC through the RUN relay. It should have no effect on starter operation.

The power the starter solenoid should be getting comes from the main DC bus, through fuse J17, through the starter relay contacts, down to the solenoid, where you did the screwdriver test.

Have someone try to start the engine while you listen to the starter relay in the TIPM. If you hear/feel it click, it is getting the signal to close from the TIPM circuit board. The problem would have to be from fuse J17 on down to the starter.

If you don't hear/feel it click, the problem could be anywhere from the key to the TIPM.

Here is a picture showing the starter relay and fuse J17:

Ok so I just went outside and had someone turn the key for me while i listened and felt the relays. They all made a click and I could feel them BESIDES the Starter Motor Relay, Engine Transmission Control Relay, and Auto Shutdown Relay. How does that sound? I'm not to confident with my electoral diagnostics skills so I just want to ask before I go around changing parts.

Do you recommend I buy a new starter motor relay first?
Old 08-18-2015, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeJKUR
The reason it it is not starting when you jump the start is due to the security system.

I did a quick search and here is a wiring diagram. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dj...4052_start.png

You may have blow a fuse. Check from power coming in to the switch.
That's true I should have realized it was security or everyone would be under a car starting them up to steal
I checked all the fuses besides the relays. I didn't have extra wires to hook them up to a power source to test them.
Old 08-18-2015, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by carloscastaaa

Do you recommend I buy a new starter motor relay first?
If you could hear/feel the starter relay click, no need to buy a new one. Just to make sure, switch it with the rear defogger relay. They have the same part number.

Good point about the security system causing it to not start even though you can force the starter to crank.
In order for the starter-screwdriver-jump to crank and start the engine, the key has to be held in the start position.

So, have someone hold the key in the start position. When you establish the engine is not cranking, and while the key is held in start, do the screw driver thing. See if it cranks and starts.
Old 08-18-2015, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
If you could hear/feel the starter relay click, no need to buy a new one. Just to make sure, switch it with the rear defogger relay. They have the same part number.

Good point about the security system causing it to not start even though you can force the starter to crank.
In order for the starter-screwdriver-jump to crank and start the engine, the key has to be held in the start position.

So, have someone hold the key in the start position. When you establish the engine is not cranking, and while the key is held in start, do the screw driver thing. See if it cranks and starts.
I couldn't hear/feel the starter motor relay. I haven't checked fuse J17 though maybe thats the problem....

I also had someone hold it in start while I did the screwdriver method on the starter but still no luck, it only would just crank and crank
Old 08-18-2015, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by carloscastaaa
I couldn't hear/feel the starter motor relay. I haven't checked fuse J17 though maybe thats the problem....

I also had someone hold it in start while I did the screwdriver method on the starter but still no luck, it only would just crank and crank
A blown J17 won't keep the relay from closing. A blown J17 will keep power from the contact points, so the relay will have no power to route down to the starter solenoid.

It's beginning to look like the computer doesn't know the key is in the start position.

Have you removed your halo fuse tap to see whether or not your mod is a factor?

Last edited by ronjenx; 08-18-2015 at 05:35 PM.
Old 08-18-2015, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by carloscastaaa
That's true I should have realized it was security or everyone would be under a car starting them up to steal
I checked all the fuses besides the relays. I didn't have extra wires to hook them up to a power source to test them.
Go to any part store or even Walmart and get a $10 voltmeter. If you are messing with any electronic system you need one. Don't placing power or ground to a circuit you don't don't know how it work. You are more than likely to damage the electronic component you are trying to check.
Old 08-18-2015, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
A blown J17 won't keep the relay from closing. A blown J17 will keep power from the contact points, so the relay will have no power to route down to the starter solenoid.

It's beginning to look like the computer doesn't know the key is in the start position.

Have you removed your halo fuse tap to see whether or not your mod is a factor?
I tried swapping out the rear defogger relay for the starter relay and still it would not start or even crank.

I did remove the tap as soon as I realized it wouldn't start and even without it at that point I had no luck turning it on. All lights on dash work only.

Last edited by carloscastaaa; 08-18-2015 at 07:10 PM.

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