aaron97

Pretty straight forward. Just remove the crappy Infinity woofer, make a spacer out of 3/4"-1" MDF (or the material of your choice) and it will work perfectly. I made my adaptor/spacer to exact tolerances, that way it’s a clean and snug fit. I believe it was 7.6" I.D. and 8.8" O.D. The hookup is simple (Greens are +, Grays are -), you can either buy harness adaptors which would be nice because then you will get a few extra inches of wire to work with or you can just cut the stock connectors off, the wires will reach but it's not as easy. I also stuffed a bunch of Poly-Fil in the enclosure as well to help with any future rattle.

Kicker CVR8 2ohm 8" subwoofer.


What the Infinity subwoofer looks like...


Kicker CVR8 next to the adaptor/spacer i made...


Comparison of the two subwoofers...



The adaptor/spacer in place...


The Kicker installed with optional grille for protection...


"And the question on everyone's mind.... Was it worth it? Not really. There is a much larger field of low-end tons, but it's not louder/harder than the stock speaker by any means. This is with the Kicker 77Kick46 Amp." Ok, so when I wrote this thread and installed this sub, at that time no one knew that the Kicker 77Kick46 amp only sends a pre-amp output to the subwoofer. Its makes since now, I guess Kicker just assumes that if someone is buying the amp, they are upgrading to the self-power subwoofer as well and it only needs a pre-amp signal, not fully powered sound. I had already installed a Rockford Fosegate PBR300x1 to power the sub, and it sounds great that way. Unfortunately, i was never able to test the new sub on the factory infinity amp, so i really tell you if doing this sub upgrade on a stock infinity system is worth it.

JKX

How the heck did you get the sub out without taking the whole enclosure apart? I took my grate off and wasn't sure how to pull the sub... (grrr)

Any insight is appreciated! Thx!

JKX

BTW ... I have an 12 Rubi and there is no hardware surrounding the metal sub frame. Looks like yours does?

Twistedfreak

looks good hook and amp with some power and it will sound better

TJM12

Great job Aaron97. Looks great! I bet if you put a small class d sub amp to that it would improve it a bit more. Unfortunatley a small sub in a small box can only push just so much air. Check out rockford fosgate boosted rail amp. It's tiny but can kick up 300 watts rms and it connects to the factory wires for signal.

1FoxyJK

I did the same thing, but with a Polk MM dvc sub a month ago. At the bottom of the stock sub (with the grille off) there is an opening and I just kept tugging at it hard till the sub came loose.

JOSH27

Nice write up! I used a 8" Kicker cvr powered by a 300w amp hooked off of a line out converter. Also made a spacer like you did out of 1/2'' oak and painted it black. With some dynamat on the inside of the box and some foam between the box and tub to hold it tight and stop rattles, this thing moves the mirrors prety good!

TJM12

Where did you place the amp?

JOSH27

kinda hard to see in the pic, but it is screwed to the right side of the tool box. I did have it in the hidden storage but it overheated too easily.

aaron97

After the stock cover is off, nothing holds the sub in. Its just stuck. I wasnt really sure either, but it just took some careful prying and it popped off.

I haven't installed an amp just yet. I ordered the JL Audio 700/5 amp and i am going to place it under the drivers seat. (oops, just realized that question was at Josh).