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Replacing the Factory Subwoofer wiring question

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Old 04-15-2014, 11:15 AM
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Default Replacing the Factory Subwoofer wiring question

i bought a Kicker Compvt 8 to replace the infinity subwoofer as it sounded blown to me my question is the factory sub had two plugs, each with 2 wires going to them. which are positive and negative? the Kicker has just a Red and Black input so thats easy enuff, but what wires do connect? thx in advance for the help guys and gals
Old 04-18-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bamoman
i bought a Kicker Compvt 8 to replace the infinity subwoofer as it sounded blown to me my question is the factory sub had two plugs, each with 2 wires going to them. which are positive and negative? the Kicker has just a Red and Black input so thats easy enuff, but what wires do connect? thx in advance for the help guys and gals
Was hoping someone would reply to this with some recommendations. I am doing the same thing. I've purchased the Kicker 6" for the sound bar and dash speakers, the CFE tweeter upgrade and am planning on swapping the sub with the 8" kicker that you are looking at. Noticed that the Kicker Subs have different connectors so not sure how it will have to be wired either. Also, the hole count for the screw holes are different. Was hoping for a plug and play but got the feeling thats not gonna happen. Also worried about the Ohms. Do you know what the factory sub is?
Old 04-18-2014, 05:21 PM
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Factory sub is a dual 2 ohm sub, you will need to replace it with a dual 2 ohm sub. You should know that if you are using the factory "Alpine" amp, it will be severely under powered. I have read elsewhere that each channel of the sub output is approx 25 watts RMS, 50w peak.
Old 04-24-2014, 07:43 PM
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well after seeing the 2ohm answer, i looked at the box of the speaker and see its a 4ohm speaker. do i need to take the speaker back or is there another idea?
Old 04-25-2014, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Bamoman
well after seeing the 2ohm answer, i looked at the box of the speaker and see its a 4ohm speaker. do i need to take the speaker back or is there another idea?
If it is a dual 4 ohm speaker it will basically cut you amp power in half. Since the factory amp is already pitifully underpowered at 2 ohms, it would be worse with a 4 ohm sub. If it is a single 4 ohm, I don't recommend combining the two channels into one since the amp may be damaged by bridging those two channels.

Trade it in for a dual 2 ohm (meaning it will have two sets of speaker terminals each measured 2 ohms). Even then, I'd suggest running an aftermarket amp. Minimum I'd give a sub is 300 watts RMS, even with that you won't hear it from the back with the top off while driving.



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