Rigid 50" vs China LED Lightbar
02-24-2015, 08:51 AM
#11
Your not going to get long distance from ANY led light. They can't physically do it. My friend has a crap load of real rigid lights on his JK, a 50" a 20" SR, 2 6" and a pair of duallys .
My two hella 500s with 55w HID installed destroy them in long distance lighting. I would drop the LED route and go HID if you need long distance lighting. I get over 1000m of light plus plenty up close and wide enough to light up ditches on the highways. A much better, cheaper solution than the LED lighting that is out there. I have yet to personally witness the ARB intensity lights or Vision X light canon 7" BOTH of which are at the pinnicale of LED technology. But both are close to 1000 a set. Where as I paid 79 bucks for my Hella lights plus another 50 bucks or so for the 55w HID kit, and have a set of lights that out perform them. I have used and personally seen most everything else and nothing is as cost effective and produces the results that I get from this inexpensive setup.
My two hella 500s with 55w HID installed destroy them in long distance lighting. I would drop the LED route and go HID if you need long distance lighting. I get over 1000m of light plus plenty up close and wide enough to light up ditches on the highways. A much better, cheaper solution than the LED lighting that is out there. I have yet to personally witness the ARB intensity lights or Vision X light canon 7" BOTH of which are at the pinnicale of LED technology. But both are close to 1000 a set. Where as I paid 79 bucks for my Hella lights plus another 50 bucks or so for the 55w HID kit, and have a set of lights that out perform them. I have used and personally seen most everything else and nothing is as cost effective and produces the results that I get from this inexpensive setup.
02-24-2015, 10:23 AM
#12
JK Junkie
Not always. The KC Gravity spots I have are 20w and light up a long way ahead. Most LED bars don't throw light very far because they have tiny reflectors. They cost me $200 for the Daylighter inserts. I just ordered a pair of the new DOT approved fogs that rigid makes so I'm patiently waiting for those now. Back to the point of the thread, I'm not too keen on the 50 inch bars. They just look ugly to me and put out way too much light in just one area.
I was already talking to KC regarding their gravity lights. They said they are not getting the distance I am getting. and also said they would not get the distance of an HID light. I am very curious to see your gravity lights. can you try to get a good photo of the beam?
02-24-2015, 10:24 AM
#13
JK Junkie
02-24-2015, 11:22 AM
#14
02-24-2015, 11:34 AM
#15
JK Junkie
It probably isn't quite as far as your HIDs but it is fairly far. There isn't a whole lot of places here in Beaufort to get a lot of distance. I'll try to get night pics tonight if the weather clears up and I can get to a computer. This is what they look like installed.
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02-24-2015, 12:01 PM
#16
Yeah those are just plug and play floods I got from Inspired Engineering on black Friday for $100. They work with the factory fog circuit without flickering and they were cheap. I'm going to wire the DOT Rigids separately and move the 6cubes to the stinger.
02-24-2015, 04:16 PM
#17
02-24-2015, 05:49 PM
#18
JK Newbie
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Not always. The KC Gravity spots I have are 20w and light up a long way ahead. Most LED bars don't throw light very far because they have tiny reflectors. They cost me $200 for the Daylighter inserts. I just ordered a pair of the new DOT approved fogs that rigid makes so I'm patiently waiting for those now. Back to the point of the thread, I'm not too keen on the 50 inch bars. They just look ugly to me and put out way too much light in just one area.
Before I did any off-road lighting I wanted to make sure everything stock got an upgrade, and that it was all DOT-approved for highway use. I have to be honest with myself and spend the first $1000 in lighting on lights I'll be able to put to good use on my daily driver.
After seeing the insane improvement (from stock headlights to the JW Speakers), I'm laughing a little because you can barely notice when I turn the factory fogs on/off, they're totally eclipsed by the JWs. I'm pretty excited to throw the new Rigid DOT Fogs on there (replacing stock fogs) and supplement the JWs - I should have what is almost the maximum possible lumen output (not to mention build quality) without adding lightbars/a-pillar spots/etc.
Later I'd like to put a big Rigid on there, but there are better places for me to spend my money in the meantime
02-24-2015, 06:10 PM
#19
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I had the same question as OP, and spent countless hours comparing specs and reading reviews for the Eyourlife VS. Rigid debate. There are several videos comparing Rigid to "cheap chinese lightbars" on youtube, some are better than others, but I'll save you the hours - the bottom line is you get what you pay for.
There are several people out there that are fat and happy with their chinese 50" light bars, and some of them even claim they "can't tell a difference" between their knockoff and their buddy's Rigid. There are also Rigid reps out there like those Snake guys from Australia (see youtube: snake, rigid) that are biased the other way. But the destruction testing and build-quality are hands down FAR superior on the Rigid (or Baja) lights, along with warranty and overall build-care. The cheap Chinese lights will not be fully waterproof, they're going to have shitty connectors and wiring, the LEDs might or might not have a balanced color across the bar, and some might even go out on you. The Rigids/Bajas will be perfect, and you can use either one as a baseball bat for an afternoon without damaging the light - they're pretty insane. Watch the Rigid destruction testing vids on youtube, they're not messing around.
I have absolutely nothing against Chinese manufactured products in general. Not even anything against knockoffs in principle. You can get EXCELLENT build quality overseas whether it's China or Japan or Taiwan or Korea. Anyone claiming one country's quality over another's quality doesn't understand how manufacturing works, or how things are contracted. Corners get cut both internationally and domestically just the same, and it's always up to the company (not necessarily the manufacturer) to ensure quality is up to par.
Summary points:
1. You're not paying $100 dollars for a $1000 dollar light. You're paying $100 dollars for a $100 dollar light. (I've considered getting one just to hold me over until I can save up for a Rigid. That way, I don't have unreasonable expectations for it's quality.)
2. You can get cheap knockoffs that are made in America, and guess what, those will be just as cheaply made as the $100 dollar Chinese lights. (In fact, the $100 Chinese light will likely be superior to a $100 American-made light because Chinese cost of labor is far lower, you'll likely get more for your money.)
3. Rigid/Baja debate is a little nitpicky if you ask me. (I like Rigids based on my research, but the Bajas look awesome too! They're both insanely well-built lights. Watch some comparison videos about the two brands, though! There ARE differences. They're mostly preference, if you ask me.)
4. My personal thoughts (as if the stuff above weren't mostly opinion anyway): There is a huge quality difference, including LED type, reflector angle, reflector material, heat-sink design, connector/wiring design, between a respectable light and a knockoff light. The light output and light quality WILL be very different between a Rigid and a knockoff. Most vids/research confirms this, except in cases where ppl are defending their cheap buy. You get what you pay for when it comes to LED lighting.
There are several people out there that are fat and happy with their chinese 50" light bars, and some of them even claim they "can't tell a difference" between their knockoff and their buddy's Rigid. There are also Rigid reps out there like those Snake guys from Australia (see youtube: snake, rigid) that are biased the other way. But the destruction testing and build-quality are hands down FAR superior on the Rigid (or Baja) lights, along with warranty and overall build-care. The cheap Chinese lights will not be fully waterproof, they're going to have shitty connectors and wiring, the LEDs might or might not have a balanced color across the bar, and some might even go out on you. The Rigids/Bajas will be perfect, and you can use either one as a baseball bat for an afternoon without damaging the light - they're pretty insane. Watch the Rigid destruction testing vids on youtube, they're not messing around.
I have absolutely nothing against Chinese manufactured products in general. Not even anything against knockoffs in principle. You can get EXCELLENT build quality overseas whether it's China or Japan or Taiwan or Korea. Anyone claiming one country's quality over another's quality doesn't understand how manufacturing works, or how things are contracted. Corners get cut both internationally and domestically just the same, and it's always up to the company (not necessarily the manufacturer) to ensure quality is up to par.
Summary points:
1. You're not paying $100 dollars for a $1000 dollar light. You're paying $100 dollars for a $100 dollar light. (I've considered getting one just to hold me over until I can save up for a Rigid. That way, I don't have unreasonable expectations for it's quality.)
2. You can get cheap knockoffs that are made in America, and guess what, those will be just as cheaply made as the $100 dollar Chinese lights. (In fact, the $100 Chinese light will likely be superior to a $100 American-made light because Chinese cost of labor is far lower, you'll likely get more for your money.)
3. Rigid/Baja debate is a little nitpicky if you ask me. (I like Rigids based on my research, but the Bajas look awesome too! They're both insanely well-built lights. Watch some comparison videos about the two brands, though! There ARE differences. They're mostly preference, if you ask me.)
4. My personal thoughts (as if the stuff above weren't mostly opinion anyway): There is a huge quality difference, including LED type, reflector angle, reflector material, heat-sink design, connector/wiring design, between a respectable light and a knockoff light. The light output and light quality WILL be very different between a Rigid and a knockoff. Most vids/research confirms this, except in cases where ppl are defending their cheap buy. You get what you pay for when it comes to LED lighting.
Last edited by dog; 02-24-2015 at 06:14 PM.
02-25-2015, 01:37 AM
#20
JK Junkie
I respectfully disagree with your statements. As I have personally witnessed Chinese and rigid side by side and there is NOT a massive difference in 1. build quality. 2. light output but there is a huge difference in the weight of the peoples wallets. Most videos I have seen were put out by rigid themselves. Hardly unbias. You can throttle back any LED with a simple dimming system. I saw a few rigid videos where they "compared" other bars to theirs and it was laughable. since I know that the light they used was just as bright as the rigid light. However in their video, the non-rigid light was like a blue lighter compared to the comet like light emmiting from the rigid.
Even the display in the local store, where they have hellas on their board and rigids on their board. take them to the back in the dark warehouse, fire up the rigid, then turn on the stock 55w hella 500 halogen and the hella drowns out the beam from the rigids. They are not the be all end all of lighting, LED or otherwise. Good luck acutally seeing in fog with the "DOT" rigid fogs too. They are just their flood light, and not a fog light design. there will be a huge circle of light in the fog up in your face with them on. The only way to get a true fog light using LED is to use a reflector to direct the light properly, like JW's or PIAA fog systems. Anything that has the LED pointing out at the road like every rigid light, will just creat a circle of bright light about 100 -200 ft out and then nothing. LED lights like the light canon, gravity or the PIAA reflective LED will out perform all bars and lego lights.
Even the display in the local store, where they have hellas on their board and rigids on their board. take them to the back in the dark warehouse, fire up the rigid, then turn on the stock 55w hella 500 halogen and the hella drowns out the beam from the rigids. They are not the be all end all of lighting, LED or otherwise. Good luck acutally seeing in fog with the "DOT" rigid fogs too. They are just their flood light, and not a fog light design. there will be a huge circle of light in the fog up in your face with them on. The only way to get a true fog light using LED is to use a reflector to direct the light properly, like JW's or PIAA fog systems. Anything that has the LED pointing out at the road like every rigid light, will just creat a circle of bright light about 100 -200 ft out and then nothing. LED lights like the light canon, gravity or the PIAA reflective LED will out perform all bars and lego lights.
Last edited by Kojack; 02-25-2015 at 01:42 AM.