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Under Door Courtesy/Rock Lights

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Old 06-28-2015, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
So you have it set up like this except instead of going directly to the LEDs you are feeding the control circuit on a relay which then turns on the LEDs. I didn't know the dome was a pwm wire but I can see how that would cause the chatter.

More or less. It's not just the PWM from the circuit, but when the light goes out, it does so gradually, which causes more relay chatter and will likely burn out the coil faster. I'm going to try a capacitor across the relay coil and see if that helps at all.
Old 06-28-2015, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
More or less. It's not just the PWM from the circuit, but when the light goes out, it does so gradually, which causes more relay chatter and will likely burn out the coil faster. I'm going to try a capacitor across the relay coil and see if that helps at all.
It should help. Just not sure it will completely eliminate it. This is the same problem people have with the factory fog circuit. PWM is great for controlling LEDs, and since the domes aren't LEDs, I'm surprised it is a pwm wire. Let us know how you make out with the cap and the size and all. Could help some others.
Old 06-28-2015, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
It should help. Just not sure it will completely eliminate it. This is the same problem people have with the factory fog circuit. PWM is great for controlling LEDs, and since the domes aren't LEDs, I'm surprised it is a pwm wire. Let us know how you make out with the cap and the size and all. Could help some others.
Well, actually, PWM is more for incandescent bulbs than LEDs. The PWM is basically a square wave the goes from max voltage to 0 at a high rate. The bulb begins to dim when the pulse goes to 0, but not so much that it is noticeable before the next pulse. This gains about 1/2 MPG.
Old 06-29-2015, 02:11 AM
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Interesting. I know it is the preferred (most accurate as opposed to using resistance) method of controlling brightness in LEDs. I didn't know that was also true for incandescents. You would think applying and eliminating power across a filament would reduce its life cycle.

Last edited by 14Sport; 06-29-2015 at 02:56 AM.
Old 12-22-2016, 02:07 PM
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Just finished the install of two different kinds of light. I will say the strips of LED look better because they cover a bigger area but the LED bolt lights under the doors definitely put out more light. This will last me until I can afford to put in a good set of rock lights when I buy new fenders.

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Old 11-18-2017, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ShutterBug
Reviving an old thread.

Has anyone dealt with the PWM problem with the dome light? I am powering my rock lights from a relay. I have a SPDT switch, that when in one position, powers 12V to the relay, which turns on the rock lights. The other position, ties the dome light power (yellow w/white stripe) to the relay. The problem is, as the dome light dims, the relay begins to chatter. This is going to wear out the coil pretty fast.

I've read a few things here about diodes or capacitors, but I'm not sure this works for PWM power sources.
Did you ever figure out how to stop the chatter?
Old 12-30-2018, 01:28 AM
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Hi, did anyone work out how to stop the chatter, which size capacitor and between which terminals on the relay? Cheers, W



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