Wiring the sPod to the dash lights
#21
JK Jedi Master
Alright, got it sorted out for my 2007. Orange and silver wire in bundle behind HVAC controls provides variable dash light power. Black wire off power outlet provides negative.
Pull bottom center console panel and top center dash panel. Remove 7 mm hex head screws from center dash console--two at top and two at bottom. Pull console back to allow access behind it.
Attach positive wire to orange/silver striped wire in bundle. Attach negative wire to black wire off Power Outlet.
Voltage high light intensity.
Low intensity.
Pull bottom center console panel and top center dash panel. Remove 7 mm hex head screws from center dash console--two at top and two at bottom. Pull console back to allow access behind it.
Attach positive wire to orange/silver striped wire in bundle. Attach negative wire to black wire off Power Outlet.
Voltage high light intensity.
Low intensity.
#22
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Slidell Louisiana & Osan, South Korea
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Attach positive wire to orange/silver striped wire in bundle. Attach negative wire to black wire off Power Outlet.
Attachment 578802
Attachment 578802
#23
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Anyone know if 2013 has a footwell light?
Last edited by 14Sport; 06-16-2015 at 04:22 AM.
#24
JK Super Freak
#26
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
#27
JK Jedi Master
No. It would seem it should work if you just ran ground from the oil pressure gauge light bulb to the vehicle sheetmetal. It would seem, but I have not tried it. I say "it would seem" because it's possible they have a floating ground, in which case you could experience weird problems if you ran to common ground.
#28
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
No. It would seem it should work if you just ran ground from the oil pressure gauge light bulb to the vehicle sheetmetal. It would seem, but I have not tried it. I say "it would seem" because it's possible they have a floating ground, in which case you could experience weird problems if you ran to common ground.
#29
I have one of the sPods that has a pushbutton to turn on the bottom array of LEDs, thus allowing easy visibility at night. And you can tell from the rockers that it is the older style of switches. I have not tested this on any other configuration. What I wanted to do was wire this bottom array to a dimmable dash light circuit so when I turn on the dash lights, the array comes on and can be dimmed along with the dash lights. Also, since my sPod is mounted over the windshield, I wanted to be able to shut the array off at night if it becomes annoying when driving around town so I left the push button in the circuit.
For dimmable feeds so far we have:
2007 - 2014 with power windows...orange/gray from power window switches (thanks Vlad)
2014 (maybe 2013?)...orange/gray from footwell light
2007 - 2014...orange/gray from HVAC controls* (thanks Mark)
*May require two wire install. See posts #25-27.
The sPod removed from its bracket.
Attachment 577582
The wire that feeds the switch in the sPod. It is black and is fed from the middle pin of the last switch. This is where you need to cut.
Attachment 577583
In order to remove the sPod in the future, a connector should be attached to the new feed wire. I used Weather Pack connectors since the sPod is not water-tight and I go topless sometimes.
Attachment 577584
I added heat shrink tubing to the end of the unused wire. You can also see the completed weather pack connector. The other side of the connector feeds about 6 feet of 18 gauge wire which I will snake down to the drivers foot well.
Attachment 577586
I snaked the new wire (blue) along the same path as the interceptor wire, which is behind the header trim and down the a pillar trim and then out at the foot well. I managed to tuck the wire behind the sun visor trim by just loosening it.
Attachment 577587
For dimmable feeds so far we have:
2007 - 2014 with power windows...orange/gray from power window switches (thanks Vlad)
2014 (maybe 2013?)...orange/gray from footwell light
2007 - 2014...orange/gray from HVAC controls* (thanks Mark)
*May require two wire install. See posts #25-27.
The sPod removed from its bracket.
Attachment 577582
The wire that feeds the switch in the sPod. It is black and is fed from the middle pin of the last switch. This is where you need to cut.
Attachment 577583
In order to remove the sPod in the future, a connector should be attached to the new feed wire. I used Weather Pack connectors since the sPod is not water-tight and I go topless sometimes.
Attachment 577584
I added heat shrink tubing to the end of the unused wire. You can also see the completed weather pack connector. The other side of the connector feeds about 6 feet of 18 gauge wire which I will snake down to the drivers foot well.
Attachment 577586
I snaked the new wire (blue) along the same path as the interceptor wire, which is behind the header trim and down the a pillar trim and then out at the foot well. I managed to tuck the wire behind the sun visor trim by just loosening it.
Attachment 577587
FYI - On my 2010 Rubicon, I picked up the dimmable power at the window switches. There are (4) orange wires behind the switch panel. Three are approximately the same size (2) Orange with blue stripes and (1) Orange with gray stripe (I tapped this first and it blew the 5 amp fuse on the Source). The other wire is orange with a gray stripe and is smaller than the other three. This is the one that ended up working for me. Here's a picture of the wire that I used.
#30
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Thanks for the write up - works great!
FYI - On my 2010 Rubicon, I picked up the dimmable power at the window switches. There are (4) orange wires behind the switch panel. Three are approximately the same size (2) Orange with blue stripes and (1) Orange with gray stripe (I tapped this first and it blew the 5 amp fuse on the Source). The other wire is orange with a gray stripe and is smaller than the other three. This is the one that ended up working for me. Here's a picture of the wire that I used. Attachment 580740
FYI - On my 2010 Rubicon, I picked up the dimmable power at the window switches. There are (4) orange wires behind the switch panel. Three are approximately the same size (2) Orange with blue stripes and (1) Orange with gray stripe (I tapped this first and it blew the 5 amp fuse on the Source). The other wire is orange with a gray stripe and is smaller than the other three. This is the one that ended up working for me. Here's a picture of the wire that I used. Attachment 580740
Last edited by 14Sport; 10-21-2014 at 07:21 AM.