Invest2m4's broke the budget build; tons, 40s and triangles...
03-31-2015, 11:53 AM
#132
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Yeah, I could get away with one on the front. However, if I have an issue, it will be the rear and the offset u-joint is not for the street. I'd lose the t-case out the side before I hit 40 mph, haha.
04-13-2015, 06:17 AM
#133
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Cranked away over the last week. Control arms are done. 2" x .250" wall DOM and MetalCloak Duroflex joints.
I've been concerned that the lower control arms may be too weak, so I picked up some 5.5" schedule 40 tube to test fit as lower control arms.
Installed (the front upper is out in the picture as I still have to weld it up).
Finished welding all the brackets. Also welded the tube to the cast. Used a special MIG wire made by Crown Alloy. The stuff works really well, but man was it an erratic arc.
Got the front suspension done and towers welded in. Thankfully, I don't need to cut open the hood. I mounted them high to keep the lift height low and uptravel high. At full bump, my lower arms nearly touch the frame, my upper arm is nearly hitting a motor mount, and the third link tower is more than half way up the height of the engine. Still need to add a strut tower brace over the engine.
The rear is not quite done, but a lot further than it looks. I would have it all welded in, but working on a solution for the rear seat belts. Due to the location of the tower and having to cut so far into the frame, I had to cut the seat belt bolts out. I have the fix, but didn't have time for the fab work. Full bump for the rear is when the upper link on the truss are about 1/4" from going through the floor.
And yes, for those with a good eye, you can see my greatest mod regret. Dynamat... Don't ask. Just know that it will ruin your life when you need to remove it. Thankfully, I am bed lining the interior so I won't have to touch up the paint (if anyone has a great tip to get that crap out, let me know as I have a lot left to go).
I've been concerned that the lower control arms may be too weak, so I picked up some 5.5" schedule 40 tube to test fit as lower control arms.
Installed (the front upper is out in the picture as I still have to weld it up).
Finished welding all the brackets. Also welded the tube to the cast. Used a special MIG wire made by Crown Alloy. The stuff works really well, but man was it an erratic arc.
Got the front suspension done and towers welded in. Thankfully, I don't need to cut open the hood. I mounted them high to keep the lift height low and uptravel high. At full bump, my lower arms nearly touch the frame, my upper arm is nearly hitting a motor mount, and the third link tower is more than half way up the height of the engine. Still need to add a strut tower brace over the engine.
The rear is not quite done, but a lot further than it looks. I would have it all welded in, but working on a solution for the rear seat belts. Due to the location of the tower and having to cut so far into the frame, I had to cut the seat belt bolts out. I have the fix, but didn't have time for the fab work. Full bump for the rear is when the upper link on the truss are about 1/4" from going through the floor.
And yes, for those with a good eye, you can see my greatest mod regret. Dynamat... Don't ask. Just know that it will ruin your life when you need to remove it. Thankfully, I am bed lining the interior so I won't have to touch up the paint (if anyone has a great tip to get that crap out, let me know as I have a lot left to go).
04-13-2015, 06:22 AM
#134
Former Member
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04-13-2015, 07:17 AM
#137
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
04-13-2015, 07:18 AM
#138
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
04-13-2015, 07:25 AM
#139
JK Junkie
