Invest2m4

Well, after much frustration and numerous redesigns, I finally have a transmission crossmember/front lower CA crossmember. I owe a thanks to a member on another forum for some design insight.

Everything is still above frame level. I mounted the trans on 1/4" plate and then modified and welded two 3/8" link tabs to it. The crossmember is 3" x 1.5" x .250. Same as the rear, it is bolt-in/removable. I have large 1/4" plates welded to the ends and the frame is sleeved with DOM. To connect the trans to the CM I used a 2" bushed DOM sleeve to keep things flexy. I welded that to the crossmember via some fabrication wizardry that I would like to never have to do again. I am still going to add some additional gussets to the trans mount and the crossmember, but happy to have this out of the way.

Also dropped my rear axle off this morning to finally get the gears and locker installed (after the first shop failed and told me to go somewhere else...).

awinski

i like it! and i may even copy it in the future

Invest2m4

Go for it. Make sure to set a day aside to do it and a plasma cutter is your friend

Invest2m4

Made some progress this weekend. Got the steering box moved forward, cleared the engine compartment to make room for the strut towers (due to using 16" ORIs and keeping the Jeep low with a lot of uptravel, the towers get darn close to the hood).

Good news is that the ABS module is not in the way. I'll have to find a smaller washer reservoir. I'll be making a custom battery tray next weekend and I'll include mounting points for the fuse box and everything else that was hooked to the stock plastic one. Air filter setup will have to wait until the towers are in and I can find a place to stick it.

Also got the front lower control arms figured out and will be cutting and welding those this week. That leaves one left to do (front upper).

If I have any major regrets at this point it was the decision to not re-tube the front axle. The diff is so far driver that it gets in the way of uptravel. Biggest issue was it wanting to hit the steering box. Ultimately, I ended up with less front stretch than I wanted. However, it is somewhat a blessing as it saves me a ton of work. It looks like I am at about 3" of front stretch. So, that is a total of 11" front and rear for a wheelbase of 107". I tossed a wheel/tire on to see how it looked and I definitely won't have issues with approach angle.

Maertz

Looks good man. I think i ended up about the same. I got by with my resovoir for windshield but if i recall i cut the crap out of it...Those ori are longer than my 16s and mine bind my front u joint at full droop barely on a 1310. If you keep it around the same height as me and have a 1350 you may need a dif strap.

Invest2m4

I'll have the strut mounted higher to compensate for the extra length. Here's how to think about it: I'll be running the equivalent of about 2.5" of bump stop up front and will have 15.375" of down travel from that point (the ORI has internal bumps and stops compression with 5/8" of shaft showing, so they are technically less travel than advertised).

I've also been thinking about sticking with 1310 shafts. I think those will work fine. I don't use the skinny enough to blow those up.

I'll also have a front pinion angle of +3* and my arms will be nearly the same length, so the pinion will roll down very little at droop. I'm going to measure the angles next week. If I need to, I'll get shafts from someone like High Angle Driveline.

Maertz

You may squeak by also then i forgot about the internal bumps. And you'll be an inch or two taller on your shock hoops so it may be ok. A little grinding on my yoke fixed mine so it was close

Invest2m4

Alright, just talked to Carolina Driveline and their 1350 is good to 32*. Based on what I told him, he didn't think I would have an issue.

Maertz

Thats good to hear. Not trying to criticize just trying to throw ideas. Lol i know i overlooked a few things on mine and down the road was like ****.. Ive been working alot on my neighbors build and its crazy how 3 minds seem to cover alot more than one lol

Ringer

If you need crazy driveline angles, look at the offset u joints from Tom Woods. I have run them on a YJ that we had binding issues with and it solved them.