Originally Posted by sea bass

I feel like we're saying the same thing - only you're saying it with more detail and facts :-) As you increase tire height, you have to decrease backspace to maintain proper scrub radius also resulting in a wider track adding more stability. It has to be the proper ratio (or balance) in order not to have too much of a positive or negative scrub correct? Yes - this adds stress to an already week stock bj as well as other components but that goes without saying. Nobody should expect to be able to add bigger tires without trade-off of worn parts that will likely need to be upgraded sooner than if left stock. We do it to increase offroad performance right? Short of replacing the entire axle as you stated, this is what we have to do.

Originally Posted by sea bass

Also to the OP - here's a pretty slick set up of a local wheeler. Not sure if he's a member here or not. Stock on 37’s and MC fenders.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

Flat fenders is a great way to get clearance for bigger tires and not add lift and should be the first thing considered when you are looking into bigger tires. The less lift you have the better off you will be in almost all aspects of performance sans breaker angle. For about 95% of the "I wheel my daily driver crowd" would be best served by running 35"-36" tires with flat fenders, a front 3/4" spacer, proper gearing, lockers, and trimmed front and rear stubby bumpers. I would maybe throw in a cromoly drag link and tie rod just for extra strength.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

looks like a solid plan to me. A little extra height will help keep you from bottoming out the suspension in those Chicago potholes.

Originally Posted by auceny

I (part of the 95%) have a decent amount of weight over stock with LOD mid front and shorty rear with carrier, warn m8000 (steel cable), engine/tranny skid, and evap skid. Was considering trimming my fenders or buying flats, getting 315/70/17 Duratracs, and then 1.5" RK stock mod (springs, front adjust track bar, front disco sways, and rear track bar relocation bracket), extended brake lines, and OME shocks. I figured this is still a small enough lift to not have issues and get springs better suited for the added weight. Am I overlooking or missing something that would be a flaw in my thinking?

Originally Posted by auceny

lol I think I need 40s for a few of them. Thanks for replying to me and all the others on here. It has helped so many figure out a little more of what we're doing. Hoping to make it to Badlands and Silver Lake a bit this year and maybe a Jamboree. Maybe some other places if/once I make some wheeling friends.

Would adjustable lower control arms provide enough or any benefit over stock to spend the money on them? On this small of a lift, I understand the reasons when over 2".

Originally Posted by mikeJKUR

I have the RK 1.5 lift. What I can you is that my caster was out of spec at 3.0 positive. With the front lower arms I at know in spec at a 5.0 positive.