08Rubicon

So my question is why, I understand how a clutch works but is it all open under there or is there a short breather tube; how does water make it in there? Also, is there anything that can be modified so that you can clutch it while submerged? - KY

Gokracer1

Well I'm sure more people will back me up with some better reasoning or explanation here but... Water gets in everything! There is the boot where the slave or clutch cylinder goes in the trans to engage and disengage the clutch. I know for the most part its pretty tight but water can get in there. And also where your trans bolts to your engine, at the bottom of the two there is about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap there. I know if your rear main oil seal ever starts leaking, thats how you know its leaking. Also too for that same reason so oil doesn't puddle up and really saturate your clutch. Thats probably the biggest hole I can think of at the moment without crawling under there and looking.

yetibear

That all sounds reasonable, cost has to factor in also, since the housing doesn't need to keep fluids in there is less reason to make it so it will keep fluids out. And the clutch is a part that is meant to be replaced at a reasonable cost(meant/is are not the same), and can require other services, would making it water tight add considerable cost over the life of the vehicle?
I believe they could make it completely watertight, but they have looked at the increase in lifetime costs, and decided that what has worked in the past is good enough. I also believe they could make it better then it is and have just decided that there isn't enough profit potential in it for them to bother.

08Rubicon

With that being said is there anyway that a large water tight v-clamp or something similar could be fit around the gap to close it off? - KY

Gokracer1

Well going back on what vetibear said, and also too there is probably more places water can enter. I think the point is stay away from mass amounts water. It can handle some but its not a submarine either ya know. Because if you get your jeep in deep enough water and it goes in the intake ( Thought the air box) you will hydrolock you motor and thats BIG problems there. Just be smart about what you go through is all i can say

08Rubicon

I understand that and it seems that a snorkel would fix that. From what I have gathered the clutch on a 6-speed seems to be the weak point when it comes to water... you can add a snorkel and extended breather tubes but there is nothing out there right now to allow you to shift under water unless you know how to properly shift with out using the clutch. I have no intention of trying to be the first one to drive from the States straight to Europe but it would be nice to mod it to allow me to shift under water. Would it be feasible to machine a spacer (with some gaskets of course) and add it in between the engine and the tranny to close that gap? - KY

JKJeremy

i'm far from an expert but it seems like it would be cheaper and easier to just learn how to shift without clutching....i'm not sure however if that still creates the same problem that clutching does and the real issue here is you should just not shift at all while in water....i'd be interested to know from those who know more than i do, but learning to shift without clutching is actually pretty easy once you learn your shift points (for me that seems to be around 1800-2000 rpms depending on the gear)...if that solves the problem without mods then that would be the way to go i would think....

yetibear

Ok, before I even start, 'floating' the gears is not really good for your transmission, it chips, and rounds off the teeth on the gears. But, I have driven OTR tractor trailers for 30 years, over 3 million miles, 10's if not 100's of million shifts, and I have never lost a transmission. Yet I never really float them in a 'car' type vehicle(kitten protection there).

A synchronized trannie doesn't release the gears as easily, you have to be extremely precise (matching rps's and road speed)to get it to slip into the next gear. If you blow the shift it is more likely then not, that you will have to use the clutch to finish the shift.
I am not saying you can't do, there are a goodly amount of people that get away with it all the time. I'm just saying it could damage your trans, it is not the easiest thing to do right every time, and even with a lot of practice, off roading, it could leave you just as stuck as not.
If you go into a deep water crossing, and try to drop a gear, the drag on your Jeep, from the water(not to mention a sandy or muddy bottom) would make it almost impossible for you to match road speed and rpm's. The sweet spot would be so small, and be gone so quickly, unless you were real lucky, you would never be able to catch that shift.
Go into the crossing in the gear that will take you all the way through, that is a bad time to count on your floating skills, or maybe if you do try a clutchless shift, you may need to count on your floating skills. You WILL miss the shift, and you will come to a stop, in the water. Best to do it the right way, then try using the easy way that will leave you worse off in the end.


there #1000, earned my big S back!

sn4cktime

I agree, just stick it in 1st a crawl through. If you can't make it in 4H or 4L, you're not gunna make it.

TEEJ

For a deeper water crossing, you don't want to go too fast, it creates too much turbulence under the hood...increasing the odds of splashing water up higher than the water line itself, etc.

A speed that maintains a consistent bow wave, so that the under hood water level is a few inches lower than the overall level, w/o splashing, is best.....and throwing a blanket or tarp over the grill/hood area has been know to help in this regard, etc.

Generally, for a manual, try picking a gear that will allow you to stay at that constant speed the whole way through, second gear is often a good choice in 4lo for example....and just do the entire crossing in 2nd in 4 lo...

Power shifting, while doable, is hardly worth it, as if you blow it....you have created the very condition you strove to avoid BY doing it, etc.

Momentum is your friend on a water crossing....so don't shift anyway...slow and steady wins the trans-pond race.

If its deep enough, and or the bottom is suspect....hook a front and or rear recovery line up to someone on the opposite shore before starting across....that way, you do not lose the typical 2-3 minutes to have a hook up and start pulling you back out, etc....and 2-3 minutes is often the difference between just your carpet getting wet, and your ass, etc.