13 JKUR BB install done, ready for 35's
01-20-2013, 05:00 PM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Orlando
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
13 JKUR BB install done, ready for 35's
I have a 2013 JKUR and just installed this kit.
I wanted to add a few notes to people to clear up some confusion to some who may be looking to install. I found every thread before hand and reviewed before I pulled the trigger. But there are still some things that I learned during install.
Sway bar links, non greasable:
My Kit did not have greasable sway bar links, and I don't think they come this way anymore. The ones I received had extended sway bar links that were very similar to stock. The weird thing is that I received a bag with grease nozzles for the sway bar links, so it was very confusing making me think something was missing or sent to me in error. I am still waiting on Teraflex response to make sure I received right parts.
Rear sway bar link installation:
I installed my links on the outside of the sway bar and axle mount. I just did not see how it had enough room if I installed them on the inside sway bar and axle mount. not sure if there was any difference between 2013 and older models.
Front Brake Lines:
Front brake lines had to be adjusted and slack pulled from caliper side to leave more room for the axle droop. Even still, there does not seem to be enough brake line for full axle droop. I have put a call into Teraflex, as I am afraid I will run into a damaged brake line if I go offroading and allow the axle to droop all the way. I was playing around with it on the jacks while the jeeps was on stands, and seemed the shocks and extensions allow the axle to drop farther than the brake line allows.
Spring installation:
Fronts were worse than rear. I recommend a spring compressor if you are running Rubicon springs or anything longer than stock sport spring. They were a pain in the a** to reinstall without getting creative. A trip to the auto store for a free rented spring compressor would have been nice if I had prepared for it. Instead I used a vice to compress a few coils and wire tie them until I installed, then snipped the wires. The problem on the front is that the front axle has limited travel down due to driveshaft hitting exhaust. You cannot push axle down any further unless you detach the driveshaft. A fully extended spring will not fit back on top of axle with the spacers unless you compress it.
Other than that, the ride is great, steering was not even affected, and everything is as it was before, just 2.5" higher, and the front rake seems to be gone. Installing my 35" tires this week.
PS: I have 2013 Rubicon rims (takeoffs) for sale, wheels and tires, 850 miles on tires. PM me or email my work jkuzman@englending.com
I wanted to add a few notes to people to clear up some confusion to some who may be looking to install. I found every thread before hand and reviewed before I pulled the trigger. But there are still some things that I learned during install.
Sway bar links, non greasable:
My Kit did not have greasable sway bar links, and I don't think they come this way anymore. The ones I received had extended sway bar links that were very similar to stock. The weird thing is that I received a bag with grease nozzles for the sway bar links, so it was very confusing making me think something was missing or sent to me in error. I am still waiting on Teraflex response to make sure I received right parts.
Rear sway bar link installation:
I installed my links on the outside of the sway bar and axle mount. I just did not see how it had enough room if I installed them on the inside sway bar and axle mount. not sure if there was any difference between 2013 and older models.
Front Brake Lines:
Front brake lines had to be adjusted and slack pulled from caliper side to leave more room for the axle droop. Even still, there does not seem to be enough brake line for full axle droop. I have put a call into Teraflex, as I am afraid I will run into a damaged brake line if I go offroading and allow the axle to droop all the way. I was playing around with it on the jacks while the jeeps was on stands, and seemed the shocks and extensions allow the axle to drop farther than the brake line allows.
Spring installation:
Fronts were worse than rear. I recommend a spring compressor if you are running Rubicon springs or anything longer than stock sport spring. They were a pain in the a** to reinstall without getting creative. A trip to the auto store for a free rented spring compressor would have been nice if I had prepared for it. Instead I used a vice to compress a few coils and wire tie them until I installed, then snipped the wires. The problem on the front is that the front axle has limited travel down due to driveshaft hitting exhaust. You cannot push axle down any further unless you detach the driveshaft. A fully extended spring will not fit back on top of axle with the spacers unless you compress it.
Other than that, the ride is great, steering was not even affected, and everything is as it was before, just 2.5" higher, and the front rake seems to be gone. Installing my 35" tires this week.
PS: I have 2013 Rubicon rims (takeoffs) for sale, wheels and tires, 850 miles on tires. PM me or email my work jkuzman@englending.com
01-21-2013, 03:42 AM
#3
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Helltown, VA
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice write up,
I feel your pain on the brake lines, i just installed a 2.5 RK kit and the front brake lines were a pain, i ended up moving the top bracket (Frame) down about 1.5" and moving the lower bracket (Spring perch) up about 1.5", doing this i have enough slack for full droop and i made sure the lower flex hose did not have problems when turning the wheel from lock to lock.
Im going to replace the brake lines on my JKU in the future
I feel your pain on the brake lines, i just installed a 2.5 RK kit and the front brake lines were a pain, i ended up moving the top bracket (Frame) down about 1.5" and moving the lower bracket (Spring perch) up about 1.5", doing this i have enough slack for full droop and i made sure the lower flex hose did not have problems when turning the wheel from lock to lock.
Im going to replace the brake lines on my JKU in the future
01-21-2013, 03:00 PM
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Orlando
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice write up,
I feel your pain on the brake lines, i just installed a 2.5 RK kit and the front brake lines were a pain, i ended up moving the top bracket (Frame) down about 1.5" and moving the lower bracket (Spring perch) up about 1.5", doing this i have enough slack for full droop and i made sure the lower flex hose did not have problems when turning the wheel from lock to lock.
Im going to replace the brake lines on my JKU in the future
I feel your pain on the brake lines, i just installed a 2.5 RK kit and the front brake lines were a pain, i ended up moving the top bracket (Frame) down about 1.5" and moving the lower bracket (Spring perch) up about 1.5", doing this i have enough slack for full droop and i made sure the lower flex hose did not have problems when turning the wheel from lock to lock.
Im going to replace the brake lines on my JKU in the future
It seems like a no brainer for anything above 1" it seems. It seems I may be going the same route of a brake line change.
