Whitch gears?
07-03-2015, 10:09 AM
#51
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07-03-2015, 01:29 PM
#52
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Oups, my mistake... When I said 4.56, it was if I would stay with 33". But if I go with 35" then it would be 4.88 or 5.13 I guess (same price as 4.56)
07-03-2015, 09:11 PM
#53
I went with Planman's advice and went with 5.38s on my 2010, auto, 4 door, 3.8L, Rubicon, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. IIRC there was a company making 5.38s for the D30, don't know if they still are, but the pinion gets pretty small. 70MPH has me at 2600 RPM.
4:10 was bearable around town with OD off, forget using OD on the freeway unless you have tailwind, you're going downhill or going like 10MPH below the speed limit. Only thing I felt like I gained with 5.38s was to be able to use overdrive on the freeway, I still turn it off around town since it's still a dog and shifts too much. Off road in 4L the 5.38s are spot on, basically crawls without having to touch the gas.
Gonna step up to 37s soon and most likely going to GY MTRs for their weight, about 5lbs lighter per tire than my 35" TGs. 35" MTRs are about 15lbs lighter than 35" TGs.
4:10 was bearable around town with OD off, forget using OD on the freeway unless you have tailwind, you're going downhill or going like 10MPH below the speed limit. Only thing I felt like I gained with 5.38s was to be able to use overdrive on the freeway, I still turn it off around town since it's still a dog and shifts too much. Off road in 4L the 5.38s are spot on, basically crawls without having to touch the gas.
Gonna step up to 37s soon and most likely going to GY MTRs for their weight, about 5lbs lighter per tire than my 35" TGs. 35" MTRs are about 15lbs lighter than 35" TGs.
Last edited by TRAUMAhead; 07-03-2015 at 09:13 PM.
07-03-2015, 11:05 PM
#54
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I went with Planman's advice and went with 5.38s on my 2010, auto, 4 door, 3.8L, Rubicon, 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. IIRC there was a company making 5.38s for the D30, don't know if they still are, but the pinion gets pretty small. 70MPH has me at 2600 RPM. 4:10 was bearable around town with OD off, forget using OD on the freeway unless you have tailwind, you're going downhill or going like 10MPH below the speed limit. Only thing I felt like I gained with 5.38s was to be able to use overdrive on the freeway, I still turn it off around town since it's still a dog and shifts too much. Off road in 4L the 5.38s are spot on, basically crawls without having to touch the gas. Gonna step up to 37s soon and most likely going to GY MTRs for their weight, about 5lbs lighter per tire than my 35" TGs. 35" MTRs are about 15lbs lighter than 35" TGs.
07-05-2015, 01:16 PM
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08 auto and 3:73 gears have been running 33s for 70,000 KM...90% of the time running down the QEW and 401 ect.
The old 42RLE does hunt at times, I need to kick it down on some hills...ok. my RPMs line up pretty darn close to the chart.
Am I saving for gears with these 33s?
Am I frustrated with the way my Jeep drives?
Do I feel I need more power?
Nope, no to all the above.
Am I saving for gears and 35s?
Yup.
But, I would mount the 35s first before I gear see how things are. But, have the cash ready for gears right away if needed.
From what I read, and the OP has some good advice here (Joe_B and RobsJeep...thanks Gents)
I'd do 4:88 based on what size (actual) tire I have planned, my drive, and mild off road I'm able to do.
Good luck to the OP
The old 42RLE does hunt at times, I need to kick it down on some hills...ok. my RPMs line up pretty darn close to the chart.
Am I saving for gears with these 33s?
Am I frustrated with the way my Jeep drives?
Do I feel I need more power?
Nope, no to all the above.
Am I saving for gears and 35s?
Yup.
But, I would mount the 35s first before I gear see how things are. But, have the cash ready for gears right away if needed.
From what I read, and the OP has some good advice here (Joe_B and RobsJeep...thanks Gents)
I'd do 4:88 based on what size (actual) tire I have planned, my drive, and mild off road I'm able to do.
Good luck to the OP
07-07-2015, 06:16 PM
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Thanks to all of you who took time to help me with my question about "witch" gear to go for with 33" or 35" tires.
I still have another question indirectly connect to gearing:
They say that when you put 35" tires (more weight and bigger size), you put a lot more stress on different parts (ball joints...) of the jeep and can cause some premature beak down. Now I understand this applies when you do offroad but is it the same when you do only country roads and no rocks? I'm still not sure if I will go to 35" (from 33") because of that premature wear... If this concern only jeeps doing a lot of offroad and rocks then I would feel better about choosing 35".
Ok, I lied, I have another question:
By putting on 35" (from 33") I will loose MPG (now I'm at about 12.5mpg with my stock and 33") but by also adding a flashpaq, would I get back to lost MPG? If yes or no, by switching my 3.73 gears to 4.88 or 5.13, would I get the MPG back to stock?
Thanks again for you answers
I still have another question indirectly connect to gearing:
They say that when you put 35" tires (more weight and bigger size), you put a lot more stress on different parts (ball joints...) of the jeep and can cause some premature beak down. Now I understand this applies when you do offroad but is it the same when you do only country roads and no rocks? I'm still not sure if I will go to 35" (from 33") because of that premature wear... If this concern only jeeps doing a lot of offroad and rocks then I would feel better about choosing 35".
Ok, I lied, I have another question:
By putting on 35" (from 33") I will loose MPG (now I'm at about 12.5mpg with my stock and 33") but by also adding a flashpaq, would I get back to lost MPG? If yes or no, by switching my 3.73 gears to 4.88 or 5.13, would I get the MPG back to stock?
Thanks again for you answers