jnabird333

So I ordered a Teraflex leveling kit last week with some optional parts and had everything ready for a week-end install. I gotta’ say I was a little disappointed in the quality and install.

For the front, the spacers went okay and went as planned; although my front axle didn't drop far enough to remove the springs with-out some motivation. So I went ahead any used some spring compressors for the re-installation. I didn't use the second 1” spacer but rather used a ½” spacer that I ordered separately. (My Jeep had only ¾” of rake to begin with and I would prefer to error on some rake over reverse rake.)

It was the sway bar where things got crappy. First, the washers that were supplied were different both in over-all diameter and thickness, while the ID was okay. I realize this is trivial but it annoys me. My OCD wouldn't allow this so I used two matching washers I had. Second, the directions have you drill out the sway-bar to holes to ½” on rubi models (which I have) for the new stud on the replacement link. The trouble with this is that the existing hole is JUST under ½”. I ruined two drill bits (on one side) trying to get this done. Drilling such a little amount of material is almost impossible. The bit kept getting stuck and in the end it cause one to break. The second bit got dull. (My only recourse to the binding was to run the drill fast and with little pressure.) The sway-bar is like drilling through ball bearing material. It ruined the second bit in less than a 1/8” of cutting. In the end I used a diamond debur cutter on a die-grinder. (Not what I would consider a normal home garage tool.)

The rear went just about as poorly. The spacers are made to snap into place but “outy” on the spacer was too large to fit in the “Inny” on the Jeep. I tried greasing it and pushing until I thought I was going to blow my innards out. In the end I had to sand the spacer down about a 1/32” inch all the way around to get it to snap it. (It was still tough). I had to use a spring compressor to re-install the springs here too. Also… you need to check EVERYTHING while you drop the back. I had to unbolt the brake lines, disconnect the differential vent, and drop the e-brake cables, as they all were very tight before the axle was low enough to release the springs.

All-in-all I love the new look of my Jeep but I was disappointed on the quality of the parts that came in my kit. This is an interim step for me as I build my Jeep. I plan to run this until my stock Rubi tires are worn. Then go with a larger, and more complete system when I go to 35s. This install will influence my decision of lift brand when the time comes. There really is no reason such an easy kit should require this much modification and trouble to install.

Anyway, just sharing me experience. Happy Jeepin’

Tripletsi

Did you watch videos or read any write ups before installation? Part of any successful job is proper planning. TeraFlex has great videos and Eddie has done a wonderful job over at Project-JK. If you would have studied this forum I think you would have had a seamless install.

If you had loosened the control arms and track bars you would have had no problem dropping the axles, if fact, they would have dropped too far!

Also, the rear puck install shouldn't need any sanding. Just patience and common sense. You could have used a bit of grease and a floor jack with a 2x4 to "pop" the spacer into place. Dennis Wood suggests this in the BB video!

I've heard that TF is providing proper fitting sway bar links for Rubicons too. It wouldn't have hurt to give them a call. I think a burr but should be part of everybody's tool kit and I bet isn't as uncommon as you think.

Please don't take offense to my post, I'm simply just trying to help out the next guy. I know what it's like needing to vent, but I also am learning that I too need to slow down when I install things on the JKU. It's just so hard to do because its so exciting!

jnabird333

No worries, I don't take offense. But you shouldn't make assumptions either. The front wasn't actually help up by the control arms (that were loose) it was held up by the drive-shaft that was hitting the exhaust cross-over. I didn't feel like removing the drive-shaft so I just compressed the springs. I didn't bother with loosening the rear control arms as it was being restricted in drop my other things (brake-lines, and e-brake cable, and this was after loosening, which isn't part of the instructions). I again choose to use the compressors over more dis-assembly. The rear spacers just didn't fit period. I did try greasing. I also had my wife hold them in place while I hit them with a dead blow. They wouldn't go in. A jack with a 2x4 would've been unsafe in my opinion. My Jeep was jacked far to high. The potential for it getting kicked out and hurting my wife and/or myself would be to great. Especially since the axle was in the way for a straight on push.

You also assumed that I didn't do research when in-fact I did. This is why I loosened the control arms in the front and removed/loosened additional parts in the rear. It wasn't part of the directions the kit came with. In Fact; the directions in general were pretty weak. It forced me to look for other sources when questions arose.

In-the-end I am happy with the result. The intention of my post wasn't to vent or really even complain, but rather to prepare others for the future. (Which is your purpose for responding and why I didn't take offense). The bottom line is my kit didn't fit out of the box, and I had to use hardware and tools not listed in the directions. Some are prepared for this, other may not be. (but to be honest you shouldn't have to be)

In the future I will try to add more detail so people don't have to make assumptions...

jwilson2598

The trick on the rears is to put grease on the spacer where it snaps into the body. Then use your floor jack to raise the axle up enough to put a block of wood between the spacer and the lower spring pad. Keep jacking the axle and the spacer will pop into place without raising your Jeep off the jack stands. I've done about 6 or 7 now like this, takes about 2 minutes to put them in.

Rubi_Chill

I installed the coil leveling kit and had the same problem with the swaybar. I'm sure they make good stuff, but the sway bar links are complete garbage. The fact that they continue to ignore the problem and keep selling the crappy swaybar links is why I will never buy another one of thier products. Maybe after they loose enough customers they will provide better instructions and make parts that fit.

Dbmoorejr

Installed mine on 13 Rubi in less than two hours. Had none of the problems you had. Hint: put spring compressor finger tight on spring before you jack up vehicle. Jack it up and they will fall out. The inny outy thing on rear was difficult but I didn't sand them. I use dish washing liquid.

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Evo35

Its good to hear that you have done 6 or 7 of these. When I get the money and huevos to buy a lift, I will be giving you a shout

Also, I definetly agree with reading every thread on here about installing lifts - before doing one yourself. However, there is nothing like having someone with you that has the experience.




Oh and to the OP - Its good to hear that in the end, your happy with how it turned out. I really want to do a 2" lift in the future. So I'm a little jealous that you are moving in that direction.