HELP! Too many choices
06-26-2012, 07:04 AM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP! Too many choices
I have a 2dr 2012 sport and want 35s with a 2-3" lift. i need it to be coil so i can have full articulation but there are so many choices out there. skyjacker has a kit with lower control arms and a beefy track bar bracket. teraflex says i need an exhaust spacer. ive read to put in a new front drieshaft. ive heard i need new rear upper control arms. and that i need to regear.
so overall what am i looking at here? its mostly a daily driver over very roughly paved country farm roads, i live in connecticut so theres not much trail riding but id like to have the potential to.
will i need all 8 control arms? exhaust spacer? driveshaft? i just need to know everything i need so i dont hit a wall half way through install
thank you so much
so overall what am i looking at here? its mostly a daily driver over very roughly paved country farm roads, i live in connecticut so theres not much trail riding but id like to have the potential to.
will i need all 8 control arms? exhaust spacer? driveshaft? i just need to know everything i need so i dont hit a wall half way through install
thank you so much
06-26-2012, 06:14 PM
#3
JK Freak
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm very pleased with my Rock Krawler 2.5" max travel lift with Bilstein 5100's (I did add 1" spacers to front and rear, but didn't really need them). I got it because it's upgradable to any other lift in their line, and it was the best bang for my buck at the time. Your preferences will determine what you *really* need. I wanted adjustable front track bar to center the axle, but a bracket for the rear was enough for me (they do recommend you weld in on, but I haven't yet). I liked the adjustable lower control arms to help with camber up front, and punch the rear axle back a little to help with clearance.
I haven't done a front shaft yet, but will most likely have to ultimately (you should be able to get by without at least for a while, and as you don't do much trail riding, you may never have to replace it). I'm not sure about the rear shaft, but you may have to replace it. It's not an issue on the 4 doors with such small lift. I would probably do the exhaust spacers if I was you. A guy in my local club hasn't done it, and his exhaust is really close (like less than half an inch). They aren't expensive, and would be cheap insurance in my opinion.
I wouldn't worry about doing a regear until you have a chance to drive it. The new motor seems much happier running bigger tires, though I don't remember what the sport comes with from the factory.
I haven't done a front shaft yet, but will most likely have to ultimately (you should be able to get by without at least for a while, and as you don't do much trail riding, you may never have to replace it). I'm not sure about the rear shaft, but you may have to replace it. It's not an issue on the 4 doors with such small lift. I would probably do the exhaust spacers if I was you. A guy in my local club hasn't done it, and his exhaust is really close (like less than half an inch). They aren't expensive, and would be cheap insurance in my opinion.
I wouldn't worry about doing a regear until you have a chance to drive it. The new motor seems much happier running bigger tires, though I don't remember what the sport comes with from the factory.
06-26-2012, 06:34 PM
#4
JK Super Freak
To run 35 on a sport and on a 2012
-first you need a lift about 2.5 inches plus
-if you go with 35x12.50 you will need after market wheels or wheel spacers
-you also should think about sleeves and gussets the front Dana 30
- front drive shaft or exhuast spacers is needed also
- I would take out pitch seam out also
-first you need a lift about 2.5 inches plus
-if you go with 35x12.50 you will need after market wheels or wheel spacers
-you also should think about sleeves and gussets the front Dana 30
- front drive shaft or exhuast spacers is needed also
- I would take out pitch seam out also
Last edited by Tonka_yellow; 06-26-2012 at 07:03 PM.
06-28-2012, 12:58 PM
#5
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gears too! Most automatic 2012's are coming with 3.21 gears, although its a new stronger engine, you'll need to upgrade. 3.73 are the lowest recommended, but 4.10 or higher would be ideal. You never know when the 37" bug will come crawling. It will also restore your performance back to stock, help mpg, and prevent premature failure.
Trending Topics
07-05-2012, 06:00 PM
#8
JK Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: MontCO
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use to do this as a job at a jeep dealership. (designing 2-3 brand new jeeps a week). It was awesome. But, here are some tips:
Anything over 33's you need a lift (anything other then a rubi 33's might even rub the plastic air dam). You'll see how close your 35's get to your rear rock sliders even with a lift.
We used a rugged ridge 3.25" lifts ( highest you can go w/o drive shaft alterations) seemed fine although I never ran it off road.
When looking at your 35's remember on the road you are going to get a little rumble when starting from stop and slowing down depending on tred. Being more of an everyday driver may want to look at BFg a/t I run them in 33's on my 12 rubi and they are awesome (street mud dirt sand snow). I know I am going to get arguments from strict trail riders but all in all you get the best all around tire for the money.
Wheels get at least a 9" wide wheel w/ 4.5 back space. Your tires will wear better on the street w a wider wheel. Don't get wheel spacers, they are a bad idea.
Sell your old stuff on craigslist you'll get more money then you think for wheels tires and stock suspension parts, people are ALWAYS looking for them.
Post pics when your done!!
Here are some of my creations - enjoy!!!
Anything over 33's you need a lift (anything other then a rubi 33's might even rub the plastic air dam). You'll see how close your 35's get to your rear rock sliders even with a lift.
We used a rugged ridge 3.25" lifts ( highest you can go w/o drive shaft alterations) seemed fine although I never ran it off road.
When looking at your 35's remember on the road you are going to get a little rumble when starting from stop and slowing down depending on tred. Being more of an everyday driver may want to look at BFg a/t I run them in 33's on my 12 rubi and they are awesome (street mud dirt sand snow). I know I am going to get arguments from strict trail riders but all in all you get the best all around tire for the money.
Wheels get at least a 9" wide wheel w/ 4.5 back space. Your tires will wear better on the street w a wider wheel. Don't get wheel spacers, they are a bad idea.
Sell your old stuff on craigslist you'll get more money then you think for wheels tires and stock suspension parts, people are ALWAYS looking for them.
Post pics when your done!!
Here are some of my creations - enjoy!!!
