The Importance of changing out stock track bar and lower control arm bolts
#663
Not sure if this question has been asked yet, got to page 20 on this thread before I gave up looking.
I drive an '08 jk, stock suspension. Just got dw for first time last week. Would the actual track var need to be replaced? Are the holes wallowed out to where 9/16" bolts won't make a tight fit either? I know you cannot see my track bar from there, but just wondering in general if once you've had dw if the components are ruined.
I drive an '08 jk, stock suspension. Just got dw for first time last week. Would the actual track var need to be replaced? Are the holes wallowed out to where 9/16" bolts won't make a tight fit either? I know you cannot see my track bar from there, but just wondering in general if once you've had dw if the components are ruined.
#664
Forum Tech Advisor
Not sure if this question has been asked yet, got to page 20 on this thread before I gave up looking. I drive an '08 jk, stock suspension. Just got dw for first time last week. Would the actual track var need to be replaced? Are the holes wallowed out to where 9/16" bolts won't make a tight fit either? I know you cannot see my track bar from there, but just wondering in general if once you've had dw if the components are ruined.
#665
JK Enthusiast
Little Clarification Needed Before Ordering
Hey guys - I was just getting ready to order the hardware from my local Fastenal (got a connection) and need a little clarification. The list below is what I got a quote on based on the first thread.
(8) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12) 9/16-18 UNF lock nuts
(24) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers
I pulled up the NR4X4 kit and noticed it also comes with (2) 14mm and lock nuts. It says the 14mm bolt and lock nut are for replacing the Sidebolt on the Front Track Bar Frame. I am not really sure that the "side bolt" is.
Also, they quoted Grade C Top Lock Nuts (Stover). Is grade C OK?
Can anybody provide some insight?
(8) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12) 9/16-18 UNF lock nuts
(24) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers
I pulled up the NR4X4 kit and noticed it also comes with (2) 14mm and lock nuts. It says the 14mm bolt and lock nut are for replacing the Sidebolt on the Front Track Bar Frame. I am not really sure that the "side bolt" is.
Also, they quoted Grade C Top Lock Nuts (Stover). Is grade C OK?
Can anybody provide some insight?
Last edited by Cride; 12-02-2016 at 10:17 AM.
#666
JK Super Freak
Just a word of advice, make sure you use anti-seize on both the threads and the shouldered portions of the bolts. After about 60,000 miles I had to replace some components and the shouldered bolts seized to the stock sleeves.
Second word of caution is to save your stock bolts, as some aftermarket components require the stock bolts such as my Rock Krawler lift.
Second word of caution is to save your stock bolts, as some aftermarket components require the stock bolts such as my Rock Krawler lift.
#667
The
Dont nut forget about bi-metallic corrosion.
I'm still researching this. The chassis I side I haven't got to test but if they are anything like the axle side it is 9/16 NOT 15/16mm.
Grade 8 will do, I would get washer for each side as the stock bolt has a FLANGE HEAD, which is like having a "built in washer" I would also get locking nut/washer as well. The ones I use are called deformed locking nuts.
The following is for the front and rear LOWER control arms axle side and frame side and both sides of the track bar (axle and frame). I haven't gotten to the uppers just yet. If anyone had time to look at those well that be awesome if not, I'll get to them after Christmas. The shock and sway bars ( sway bar only applies to some aftermarket kits. Example I the sway bar links that my teraflex 3 inch lift came with use the wrong bolts. All shocks need changing as well as they are not shoulder bolts.
MAKE SURE THE BOLTS ARE FINE THREAD (UNF) !!!
Grade 8 will do, I would get washer for each side as the stock bolt has a FLANGE HEAD, which is like having a "built in washer" I would also get locking nut/washer as well. The ones I use are called deformed locking nuts.
The following is for the front and rear LOWER control arms axle side and frame side and both sides of the track bar (axle and frame). I haven't gotten to the uppers just yet. If anyone had time to look at those well that be awesome if not, I'll get to them after Christmas. The shock and sway bars ( sway bar only applies to some aftermarket kits. Example I the sway bar links that my teraflex 3 inch lift came with use the wrong bolts. All shocks need changing as well as they are not shoulder bolts.
MAKE SURE THE BOLTS ARE FINE THREAD (UNF) !!!
- 8) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long (LCAs)
- (4) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long (TBs)
- (12) 9/16-18 UNF lock nuts
- (24) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers
Dont nut forget about bi-metallic corrosion.
#669
JK Junkie
Personally I think way too much is made out of this bolt clearance. The sleeve is captured by compression and the resulting friction against the faces of the sleeve. Unless this friction is overcome and the sleeve moves, it simply doesn't matter how much clearance there is between the bolt and sleeve.