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Motor Electrical Problems 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport

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Old 04-18-2015, 05:26 PM
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Default Motor Electrical Problems 2013 Jeep Wrangler Sport

Hoping I can get some direction or help with a problem I am having on my 2013 Jeep Wrangler. I recently had taken my Jeep in to have my Upper and Lower Control Arms upgraded to some JKS adjustable arms. Unfortunately on of the brackets for the lover control arm on the passenger side was bent and needed to be replaced and a new one welded on. Since picking up my Jeep and driving it home several dash warning lights began flashing including Check TPM, Hot Oil, squares appeared round P R N D, tire pressure lines all flash, the electric fan on the motor goes into high. After stopping the vehicle you then can not start it for sometime.

I have tried unplugging the battery and hope that things might reset without success. When starting it cold it will run fine and then will go back to all the dash lights flashing and the motor fan begins revving. When I talked to the 4x4 shop that did the install I wondered if welding the bracket may have shorted something out. They indicated that they always disconnect the battery when welding on the frame.

Would appreciate any help or incite. Will probably end up having it towed to a dealer unless someone may be able to give me another direction. Have only been on this site for a little bit, but you can tell have a lot of good people willing to help others.
Old 04-19-2015, 02:49 AM
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Make sure both battery terminal connections are TIGHT!
Old 04-19-2015, 11:52 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I have disconnected re-tighten twice. Still having the same problem. After doing some other research I even checked the grounds on the drivers side to make sure they were tight. Is it possible to be a problem with PCM?? Or does that affect something else?
Old 04-19-2015, 12:14 PM
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Well you can't eliminate the PCM. Since it is still under warranty I would bring it to the dealer. If they find something melted because of the welding that was done, I would then go back to the shop that did the welding and make them pay for the repair. Just because you disconnect the negative battery terminal doesn't mean you didn't melt something.
Old 04-19-2015, 12:29 PM
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I'd get them to show you the marks where they grounded the welding machine for the work they did. They should know they should ground to the same part they're welding on if they know what they're doing. If they didn't then the weld ground path could have fried a multitude of things. Bearings, bushings, computers etc whether the battery was disconnected or not.
Might not be your problem but everyone should make sure the people welding and being paid for it are competent and hopefully qualified through certified training
Old 04-19-2015, 12:43 PM
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...or just through overheating and not making sure everything was clear. That's why I suggested the dealer, it would give you the proof you need with or without the welding shop being honest.
Old 04-19-2015, 12:59 PM
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Greatly appreciate the help and advice. Just put it on a tow truck and sent to the dealer. I bought it used so hope that doesn't create any problems with dealer. It only has 19700 for miles, so will keep my fingers crossed. Will drop a note when it gets diagnosed, maybe can help somebody out in the future. Again thanks for the help, def some good knowledgable peeps on this site. Really nice for a green horn like myself that is has only basic wrench skills.
Old 04-22-2015, 07:29 PM
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Do you have any auxiliary equipment connected directly to the battery? I had a similar problem and then realized that it was caused by the way I connected my winch to the battery. When looking to connect to the battery there appears to be an obvious solution, there is a stud with a nut nearest to the terminal. The problem is, when you use this, it throws off the mechanical clamping mechanism of the clamp which results in a loose battery terminal. This results in symptoms such as you described.

If you have this, move to the other stud using a M6x1(I believe) nut.

Just a thought.....
Old 05-05-2015, 03:47 PM
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Wanted to give an update on my Jeep problems in hopes of helping out some one else in the future. After having my Jeep for almost 2 1/2 weeks I got it back!! Turns out had many electrical problems. Reading the repair sheet sounds like one problem led to another. Looks like they replaced the TPM and TIPM along with the wiring harness for all of them and the PCM. Looks like they had to remove both upper and lower intake manifolds and fuel tank to do the wiring. While changing the wiring harness to the starter seized and they ended up replacing the starter. I know the dealership mechanic worked on it for for 1 1/2 weeks straight, 8 hours a day.

When I asked what would cause this service couldn't provide me with an exact cause. Still think it could of been from when the 4x4 shop welded the bracket on frame. They swear they disconnected the negative cable from the battery. I still have my doubts. Thank God for all being covered under warranty or I would of been screwed!! Very tempted to get extended warranty if available. Everything runs great, glad to have her back!!

Lesson.... take whatever precautions you can to your Jeep's electronics if doing any welding. With these new motors relying on more and more electronic technology, save yourself a lot of money and frustration and disconnect what you can.
Old 05-05-2015, 03:52 PM
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Glad it worked out for you.



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