ksroqclimber

This is a combination of a couple write-ups I have seen across the net, and this site.

References:
4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/fuse_block/ - Fuse Block Write Up
Quick & Easy Power Distribution Project...


I wanted a separate fuse block for accessories that I will be adding, but was a little hesitant to have unused wires hanging around not attached to anything.

PLEASE DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL ANYTHING ELECTRONIC!!

So I purchased (below left) Painless Part# 70207 - Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block / 7 Circuits (4Ign/3Const) for about $62.95. Secondly I purchased a (below right) 12-Position European-Style Mini Terminal Strip for about $2.59 from Radio Shack.



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Remove the glove box to reveal a large open area behind. I first found a grounded bolt under the dash (below right) and ran the wire into the glove box area, where I then daisy chained the negative terminals on the terminal block (below left). I also placed the fuse block in this area and ran a ground wire from the fuse block ground to the same grounded bolt.



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Next I ran the Red 12v wire, and the pink Ignition wire under the dash, behind the thermostat controls under the steering wheel and finally out a rubber grommet that I found in the upper corner of the drivers side (below left). I ran the wires along the top of the firewall and attached the wires to the cable sheath (below right – I will probably put the wiring in its own cable sheath when I go to install my off road lights)






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I attached the Circuit breaker to the lip to the side of the battery (the directions for the fuse block says to have it fairly close to the battery) and connected the 12v red cable to one post, and a cable run from the + terminal on my battery to the other post labeled “BAT”. From the pic below right you can see how I ran the 12v cable on the inside of the battery. I had to extend the pink ignition cable so I used a yellow wire so I would not get it confused with the red 12v cable. The Ignition wire was to the outside of the battery to gain access to the main fuse box



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*EDIT* This portion used to show the fuse box and where i piggy-backed the power lead to a fuse. Through some trial and error found that this was not the best place to put the power lead.

So I have since moved it to Fuse M9 which is one of the slots for seat heaters. There is no fuse in it as 07 JK's do not' come with these.

As stated in a later post to this thread it is pretty easy to file down a paddle conenctor to fit in the fuse slot. This is what i will use till i can think of something better.

So in the next few pictures, the wire is show going to the wrong fuse, but the rest is the same.

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I cut a small notch in the side of the fuse box to allow the ignition wire in. The Painless Fuse Block package comes with the appropriate connectors to piggy back off of the small size fuses. Refer to the instructions to accomplish this connection.



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Finally, I connected the fuse block wires to the terminal. Since this was a 12 position terminal (6+ & 6-) and there are 7 fuses, I had one + and one - wire left off the terminal strip. This will be used to power the acc on my switch panel, so I do not really need to put it in its own position.




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This is a sketch of how the Terminal strip is laid out. Notice the strip has only 12 positions……This means that one of the circuits is left as two free wires that I have capped.







So now I will be able to make quick work of wiring up any new powered accessories. All I have to do is run a + wire, and a – wire to the terminal strip tighten the screws and voila I have power.

Good Luck.

Billy

John L

Nice writeup, thanks.

BLKRUBI

Just curious, is your P.W. block going under hood? If so, you might have been better of getting the weather resistant version....part # 70207. Just my .02.

ksroqclimber

Heh......

that was a mis type on my part. I did get ther weather proof one. Thanks for pointing that out to me. i will edit it.

Actually though i put the Fuse Block on the back side of the panel just below the glove box. so it is out of the weather anyway.

Billy

BLKRUBI

Oh ok, I had been planning to do the exact same thing, that's why I was wondering. Thanks.

mdlott

First of all - great mod!!! Without these instructions I'd still be scratching my head trying to figure everything out. However, I would be careful with using this particular fuse. I followed these instructions and, while it worked fine at first, the fuse tap eventually stretched out the connections inside the fuseblock for this fuse. Then, if you ever have to remove it the connections inside the fuseblock are too far apart to keep a good connection.

Unfortunately, I found this out the hard way - I had to remove the fuse tap so that I could make all of my connections constant hot and since this fuse controls the Auto Shut Down (ASD) feature, my Jeep kept stalling whenever I hit a bump hard enough to knock the fuse out of position. Luckily, I have a good dealership and they fixed it for me under warranty. I would recommend finding an unused fuse in the block that's ignition hot (I think there's one labeled for seat heaters) and possibly use that one.

ksroqclimber

Ooo.....thanks for pointing that out. I had considered using an empty fuse slot, but was unsure as to if those were even hot/wired in. in my testing, i didn't see that they were flowing juice, but then again, i have a pretty sh!tty tester.

If you find a better location for the fuse tap please let me know.

thanks
Billy

Egmont

All the way on the left, 3rd row next to the red 10amp fuse that is a ignition controlled connection. I used a spade type connector that I filed to fit in the hole.

ksroqclimber

Could you post the fuse ID numer and description that is listed on the underside of the lid so that folks will be able to find it that way?

thanks
Billy

Egmont

It is M8, it is normally used for the seat heater. I guess M9 will also work.