tribulation138

This is my first time ever changing one. My way worked quite well and pretty easy. Some others out there may do it different, but here is a write up of how i did it with some pictures included.

I've had a slight oil leak for months now seeping from the front of lower engine and dripping on the oil pan and surrounding upper and lower fasteners. At first it looked like my oil pan gasket. But after cleaning the whole area with engine degreaser and water I further realized it was coming behind the crank shaft pulley and dripping down slowly on oil pan. Especially when jeep has warmed up and has been running for a while...So I did a little research and decided to do the job myself. Here we go.


Here is the fun part. The bolt on the center of pulley has to removed. WARNING: This step is considered dangerous the way i did it but very effective. So if your not comfortable doing it this way don't do it.
You need a 18-24 inch long breaker bar with half inch size end. The socket you can use on the pulley bolt is 5/8, or 15mm, or even 19/32. You will not be able to turn bolt by by breaker bar alone, you end up turning whole engine over. Meaning moving crankshaft that moves pistons. The breaker bar has to be tied to frame of vehicle with a piece of rope or bungee cord as I did.
NOTE: The object at task here is to turn the starter over to rotate pulley. The Breaker bar on bolt will stop against frame loosening the bolt. When engine is started the pulley rotates clockwise! Before attempting to do this step practice with out breaker bar on bolt. Get a feel of the ignition and starter. You don't want to start the jeep just blip it enough to rotate. Now go back and secure your breaker bar to bottom left frame rail and bolt and finish the task. It may take 2-3 tries but it will work. I sprayed some PB blaster on the bolt and then applied a little map gas heat to make the job easier.






Once the bolt is loose you then can finish loosening the bolt with regular 5/8 socket wrench.

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You can go ahead and loosen the belt now and drape it over oil filter out of the way. I don't have a picture of that but most of you guys already know how to take a belt off. The tensioner is spring loaded and I used a 3/8 socket wrench extension and pressed downward to remove belt.





This part is the hardest i think of the job. You have to remove the crankshaft pulley. You have to buy a gear puller like the one I have in the picture or similar. I already have one and this is the only 2nd time i used it. They are great tools to have so buy one and keep in the back of your tool box.



Now secure puller to pulley grasping from the inside of the pulley.



Now tighten gear puller with wrench or long socket wrench like i did.



As you tighten the puller. The crankshaft pulley will begin to slide off slowly. And believe me its on there tight. NOTE: The shaft of the crank end and pulley are not keyed or key wayed. The pulley has a taper hole that is pressed on.

Believe it or not you will get to a point where the pulley will start turning again thus turning engine with it. So you have to wedge a big screw driver like i did or something similar to stop the rotation of pulley when using gear puller.



After about a 100 turns of the ratchet & forearms burning the crank shaft pulley finally pops off.



At this time its a good idea to inspect pulley. I cleaned mine up a little with a rag and alcohol. Scraped any oil or gunk off. NOTE: the pulleys back side actually has notches to where a puller can go.

Here is a picture of the dirty oiley shaft.



Clean area with rag and use a small flat head screw driver and or small pic to pry out seal. Don't worry about damaging it since your not going to reuse it anyways. Plus it wasn't sealing the oil anyways soo... well you get the point.



Next clean area again and inside where oil seal was living.



Go grab your new seal. I purchased mine for
like 9 bucks at autozone.
New one is on left. Old one on right



Grease up new oil seal and crank shaft end with fresh grease or motor oil. This makes the seal go in easier and pulley go back on smoother.






Take new seal and slightly press seal in to get started. Finish pressing seal in with large deep socket. Then lightly tap socket on to oil seal with rubber mallet. This will press in the oil seal. Make sure seal is flush to side of engine and don't hit to hard. You don't want to damage the metal part of the seal.



Now that the new oil seal is installed can start e installing pulley. You will never be able to press pulley on by hand so just get it snug on the shaft for now.



The way you have to press the pulley back on is by using bolt that came out of it.
Put the large washer aside and just thread the bolt in until snug.
Then take your long socket wrench and tighten the bolt with out the washer. Only get the pulley half way pressed on there so there is enough room to put thick washer back on. Then continue pressing pulley on with bolt. One again the force of tightening the bolt with turn pulley and engine with it. You have to wedge a large screw driver again to stop rotation of pulley.



Use antiseize on pulley bolt before installing


Once Pulley is all the way on your done. Reattach serpentine belt and start jeep. Listen for any abnormal sounds and check for any leaks.. If all is good.. thats it.

Please fill free to leave comments or anything I left out.

mbanik

If I may add a few notes to this...

- The damper bolt is only torqued to 40 ft-lbs. If you have 18V impact driver you could probably zip it off with a socket drive adapter. With a little maneuvering you can fit a decent size 1/2" impact gun if you have air tools. For installation you should be able to torque to 40 ft-lbs without rotation unless your compression is shot.

- There are five special (Miller) tools involved in the factory procedure:

• 8450 Crankshaft insert - basically a threadless bolt for the puller to push against to protect end of crankshaft, probably a good idea not to damage the crank threads
• 1026 Puller - must be made of gold at $70 ... just go to harbor freight and buy the 4 size 3 jaw puller set for $25
• 6341A Crankshaft seal remover - I find this thing just mangles seals, careful use of simple seal extractor or small screwdriver is a better choice here
• C-4992 Crankshaft Seal Installer / Protector - has a flared inner piece that that seal slides over to get into position with a large outer "socket" to seat it. Careful use of a large socket works just as well
• 8452 Crankshaft sprocket installer - A typical damper installer this has a screw, forcing nut and bearing which allows you to easily install the damper without rotation. They list for about $150 but I got one off ebay for $25

If I could only have one special tool it would 8452.

This should only be about $100 job at any decent independent shop so if you are thinking DIY and need tools it may not be worth it.

-Matt

tribulation138

Yes may be able to get a small air gun in there. Still a very easy job. And glad I did it.

familytime

Nice write up except for using the engine loosen the bolt,thanks for added the fine print.Our's is just about due

goaterguy

Congratulations on tackling this job yourself and sharing your experience here. Enjoy the gratification, you deserve it.

murdoc319

I know I’m resurrecting a zombie thread but I’m in the middle of this procedure on my 2010. I just wanted to note that if you have a manual, you can just leave it in gear and the serpentine belt on when you remove the bolt. That provided enough resistance to get the bolt out. Also, I think the crankshaft insert is a must- that thing is worth its weight in gold. Thanks for the great write up!