zstairlessone

Thanks for the great info!!!

Runewolf1973

I have had the P1404 (P1404 - Egr Position Sensor Rationality Closed) code on my jeep for about a year and a half now and I recently spoke with a mechanic about it. Based on the description of the code and my lack of symptoms (no rough idling, no power loss, gas mileage the same as before), he recommended that I just leave it alone and not to bother replacing the valve. He said as long as the valve is stuck in the closed position (which that code indicates) and stays there, not to worry about it and it's not going to harm the jeep or engine whatsoever. He said it is just an expensive fix to get done at a shop I won't likely see any great benefit out of it. If the valve is stuck in the open position is a whole different story, he said then it will most likely need to be replaced. I would know it if that ever happened because I would start getting those aforementioned symptoms and a different code would pop up.


Just thought I should share this here so if anyone ever gets this code they can stop panicking like I did when it first popped up on my dash. LOL

Mr.T

The EGR valve not only reduces NOx emissions, it increases engine efficiency and MPG. BTW, this is common knowledge among professional tuners. I was skeptical myself about whether the increased efficiency was measurable, but my JK was over 1 MPG better at part throttle cruise with EGR enabled. Rather than write a long dissertation on why, this Wikipedia article is fairly good -- search for the word "efficiency" in the article.

ffejeroni

Just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the info. I was able to knock this out on an auto trans in around an hour. I took the fenders (inner and outer) off, as well as the tire last night, got up around 7 this morning and was wrapped up in an hour or so. I also sprayed PB Blaster last night, so that soaked overnight as well.

Jeep starts better than ever, regained acceleration and the CEL shut off. Thanks so much for all the helpful info!

bigbellyfoo

Completed this job over the weekend. Took a little over two hours, taking my time, hauling tools from shed to driveway, removing/replacing tire. My key points:

1. I pulled the out fender off, slightly cracked two plastic retaining clips, but they went back on fine, as wells as the fender and liner to the body
2. The video on removing the fender was also a huge help. Without it, I probably would have snapped more of the clips.
3. Kept the tire on until removing the electrical plug, allowed for good balance
4. Have a 2.5 inch lift that made accessibility to valve and bolts easy with tire on.
5. No way to remove plug with a single hand with the tire on. Tried for 30 mins with no luck, through side and top of engine
6. With the tire off, plug came off on first try getting both hands in there
7. Flex ratcheting 10mm wrench made life easier but not critical to remove visible 10mm bolt
8. Used a breaker bar over top of flex ratcheting 10mm wrench to get visible bolt off
9. Hidden 10mm bolt came out with just 3/8 socket wrench and small socket. Not much room to move wrench, but enough to loosen.
   

Thanks again for all the help! Haven't had a chance to drive much, but with this and a clean throttle body, hoping to notice a change. At least the CEL is gone.

TSLtrek

You guys are jerks for making think I should try this! Ha. just kidding.

I got as far as taking the fender off, losing the red clip from the connector down the backside of the engine, and splitting a 10mm socket on the easy to access bolt. Stopped there and called a guy my friends use who does work on the side. He charged me $80 labor to do the EGR, plugs and wires !!! $80 !!

I should have called him first.

Get this...he did it from the top with a tool he made from 2 wrenches and he didn't take the intake off. Apparently he is also a magician, because I could barely get my hand in there.

Aragorn

Thanks for this thread; helped me decide what to do. Due for emissions and have the EGR code as well. With the recent luck I've had, I think I'll let someone else replace my EGR valve.

tribulation138

I had the EGR code come up. I'm lucky though. I ran a bottle of seafoam through gas tank and cleared code with flashcal. That was 6 months ago and I even passed emissions.

Aragorn

Seafoam is easy enough, but now I have to buy a flashcal Though flashcal would be the less expensive way to go for the moment.

johnjutsu

Did this job today on my 2010 JK with Auto transmission.

There is lots of good info in the thread in addition to a good write up in the original post.

I was able to get to the trouble-bolt in less than 10 minutes and without manipulating the transmission dip stick tube. Here is how I did it.

Ordered this Combo Ratchet Wrench from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o06_s04

The short length gives you more freedom of movement in getting to the bolt. However, it is still on very tight. I hit it with WD40 a few times to loosen anything up. I also saw a tip about moving the EGR valve back and forth to loosen it up. I didn't try that.

I placed the ratchet end of the combo wrench on the bolt. Then placed another box-end wrench over the back prong of the other end of the combo wrench. Then I slid a ratchet extension into the other end of the box-end wrench and pulled on it.



I was surprised it didn't break the ratchet mechanism of the combo wrench, but I was willing to take that chance. Here is a picture of the whole contraption outside the vehicle.





Using this, I had the bolt out in a few minutes. I switched from using the ratchet end to using the open end when it looked like I would have trouble getting the ratchet off of the bolt due to the dip stick tube.

I also took the whole fender off rather than just the liner. Not sure how much this helped, but there was definitely lots of space.

Hope this helps someone out there.