RobtTxRubi

How much is that wrench? Is it part of a set?

Ryno1

It's part of a set on the Sears website that sells for $59.00. On the Craftsman website, you can get it separately for $13.99 --> Craftsman UNIVERSAL FLEX RATCHETING WRENCH 10MM - Tools - Wrenches - Combination Wrenches & Sets

I actually gave this job a try this past Saturday. Couldn't find this wrench in store, so I got a stubby 10m ratcheting wrench. Couldn't get enough leverage on the wrench to do anything. I'm thinking the flexible end plus added length of this wrench would make a big difference, but now debating about whether I want to go through all the hassle again. Maybe when I change out brake pads soon I'll take another run at it. I'll admit, I was not very patient. The block was still a little warm. Do y'all think a cold engine makes a significant difference on how much the hidden bold is torqued down? It would have to make a pretty big difference for it to matter to me. Like I said, I didn't feel like that hidden bolt had any chance of coming out before I either spent all day or stripped it trying.

MattAlpha

I just got this code on the way to work this morning. Thanks for the write-up, now I have a starting point aside from the Haynes manual.

I'm very happy that I have a 6 speed.

-Matt

Ryno1

My earlier post details my failed first attempt at replacing the EGR valve on my jeep with an automatic transmission. I was able to get it done on my second attempt. Here's what I think made the difference for me:

• Start with a cold engine - did mine first thing in the morning
• Remove 2 8mm and 1 non-hidden 10mm bolts first
• Push and pull on the top of the valve a few times (rock it) to loosen it up a bit
• Put a stubby ratcheting wrench on the hidden bolt and use a longer wrench to slip over the end to pull on
• Once the hidden bolt is loose, only use the wrench as long as you have to b/c if you keep it on too long while loosening the bolt, it will get stuck on there as the bolt head hits the dipstick tube
• When installing new valve, secure the electrical plug before placing all the bolts if you can. I didn't and it was a pain to get the plug seated (although not impossible) after everything was torqued down.

All total, it was a 6 hour job that included a trip to Autozone (b/c I didn't want to buy the new EGR valve until I was sure I could get the old one off) and changed out all spark plugs.

vendeth

Just got the P0404 code on my 2007 JK (80K miles). I figure it was about getting time to replace this valve as my low rpm acceleration was a little sluggish.

I'm going to order the EGR valve through Rockauto (seems like they have the best price for it around). Question, what other gasket will I need to order for this?

Rockauto lists several different kinds: RockAuto Parts Catalog

Judging by the photos from the write up, its looking like I'll need FEL-PRO Part # 70721 Tube flange but wanted to check with everyone else!

Thanks!

-V

Ryno1

I got my EGR valve from Autozone ($147) and it came with both gaskets - metal one for the valve to engine surface and the composite one for the EGR tube to valve surface. Separately on the AZ website these are the parts:

Felpro/EGR Valve Gasket (71185) | 2008 Jeep Wrangler 4WD 6 Cylinders 1 3.8L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com

Felpro/EGR Valve Gasket (70721) | 2008 Jeep Wrangler 4WD 6 Cylinders 1 3.8L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com

vendeth

Update. Took me about 4 hours to complete (still need to reattach fender). Good luck if you have large hands or short arms. Not enough room to ratchet the hidden 10mm bolt. Was able to break loose all the bolts with a breaker bar. Just a lot of patience and pb blaster needed to remove bolts. My check engine light did not come on after starting up with new egy valve.

Here's a nice video on fender removal/installation (I wish I had watched this before removing mine!):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mzyvqmv0S8

redrum914

I threw a p0404 code so I bought a new egr valve. Brand new mopar from eBay $85 shipped. But in my course of driving my code went away. Not quite sure if I should still change it. This happened like 2 weeks ago and still no light

kev_alaska

did my wife's 07 3.8 last night...had the same trouble with the auto dipstick and overtorqued bolts that everyone else had....removed the inner fender and mud flap. buddy with long arms got to it. Took longer to get the back bolt out than everything put together. One thing that i haven't seen mentioned yet......we shortened the long 10mm bolt about a 1/4". That really helped with re-installation. Although now the new EGR valve is noisy as hell. It sounds like it is leaking out the valve body itself.....?

Bukslayer

I have recently done this with an automatic and to get to the back bolt, I bent a 10mm wrench. It worked well. Still a pain but manageable. If you bend a ratcheting wrench , it would work much better