ouroborus2012

This write up definitely summed it up and helped quite a bit... I honestly can't believe the difference changing that valve made with my performance. I noticed my idle was a little rough and shifting through gears at lower rpm's made it seriously bog down. I chocked it up to the crappy 3.8 engine and my tires, but MAN what a difference changing the EGR made. It feels like a dropped a whole new engine in. Crazy..... Definitely breathed new life in to my rig

TASCAPARTS

So are you guys replacing them with oem parts or aftermarket?

Chris

redrum914

Oem in my case

ouroborus2012

This is exactly what I ordered: Dorman 911-242 Egr Valve

It looks 100% identical to my factory EGR. That was the best price I found by a long shot and it arrived in only 2 days. It actually didn't ship with the gaskets like it was supposed to, so i went and spent $4 on some at the local auto store. I contacted their customer service and they are crediting my account the $4. Not bad!

Like i said, this thing totally changed how my rig is driving.... i'm still in shock. My old one must have been super crapped out

Total pain in the ass to change though. Specifically the bolt farthest away. I found that my 10mm ratchet wrench actually fit back there and gave me the best torque and angle on the bolt

Tiponinn

To reach the dipstick bolt and the hidden bolt on the valve I used a 30" 3/8 extension, 3/8 to 1/4 in reducer with a 1/4 swivel and 1/4 10mm socket. From underneath you can tread it up to both bolts. You need to have someone put it on the bolts and hold it. Mine spun right out. You can tighten them up after getting them started the same way. I did not remove the fender, just the inner liner. Also it is good to practice on the plug with one you can see first. This was done on a 2011 with 83000 miles on it.

crumb1988

Just finished the EGR valve replacement on 2010 Wrangler automatic, 45k miles. Thanks to Mark Doiron and all who have contributed to this thread and Jeep engineers, thanks for nothing. My notes:
1) Did not remove tire or outer fender- probably would remove outer fender next time
2) Removed the 2 bolts from the dipstick fill tube and winched it over as recommended in this thread. Frankly, don't know how it could be done otherwise.
3) Removed the entire tube from the intake manifold to the EGR valve, not required but not much more work and it did need some cleaning.
4) I used a flex head 3/8 ratchet from craftsman and it worked both to break loose the 10mm bolts and remove/install them. Photo below. I did not use any sprays or solvents.
The recommendation to use a 6point socket I followed, as I was scared to strip the bolts. Be very careful on the initial breaking loose of the bolts, it's very easy for the socket to slip off/strip the bolt head. The people on here who had a helper- smart move and really the only smart way to go about this. Trying to hold the socket on and turn it proved extremely difficult with the tight space. You really could only get one arm back there at a time. I did not have a helper :( I also did not have the ratcheting box wrenches, so I can't speak to those- however based on the posts, I wish I had bought at least a 10mm as others are posting very positive about them.
5) The electric plug- I practiced on the similar one next to the battery and then I unplugged the real one after all bolt removal and plugged back in before any bolts were re-installed. That worked fine.

The jeep ran better immediately and the engine light gone and just passed TX state inspection 60 miles later. The shop quote I had was $725 and so I figure I saved $600, however this was not fun and if I had a price sub-$400 I'd probably not do it myself.

Also, make sure you have some Ibuprofen on hand. You will be sore either from the crawling and contorting or just banging of knuckles.

07RedRubi

Did this yesterday and owe a HUGE thanks for the tips & info in this thread. It was still a pain, but certainly better after reading this thread.

ChadHubbard

Hi All:
Did this today on my 2008 Wrangler X with manual transmission. Royal pain, but got it changed out. The hidden bolt and the wiring harness clip gave me the most trouble. I would like to give a heads up on the wheel wheel liner rivets and rivet gun. The wheel wheel liner is held on by six (6) plastic pop rivets that must be destroyed to remove them. I went to the dealer and purchased 6 of the rivets and 6 of the 'push pins' that hold the liner in place. Cost was $21.00. When I tried to use my pop rivet gun I discovered it was too small. I subsequently learned that a 'normal' pop rivet gun will not work and a 'plastic pop rivet gun' is required.

I have since located the plastic pop rivets on Amazon, 25 in a bag for ~`$6.00. I need to buy a plastic pop rivet gun, will have to order it.


So, in case you do this job and are not already aware, you will need plastic pop rivets and a plastic pop rivet gun.

Good luck!

Mark Doiron

If you remove the entire fender, then you don't need those plastic rivets. But you do need the clips I mentioned in the first post. Six of one, half dozen of another.

J Banner

Good stuff! Had to rope the front page crowd in...
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Replacement Made Easy - JK Forum