EGR Valve Replacement (DTC P0406)
06-20-2011, 04:39 AM
#21
Eternal ***erator
This was a joyous adventure.
I didnt remove the whole fender, just the liner. It gave me about the same amount of acess as removing the whole fender, and I didnt break any clips.
I tried to get pics but it was sunny out and the work area was dark, so they didnt turn out at all.
The dipstick tube for the auto tranny is SERIOUSLY in the way when trying to replace this damned valve. It blocks access to the rearmost bolt leaving only about 1/4" to get a wrench on the bolt (just about the thickness of the wrench i used) I couldnt get the tube out of the transmission so I wound up using a prybar in various locations to temporarily tweak it out of the way while working. I have a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench which was an absolute necessity IMO to get this done. I never would have gotten the rear bolt out without it. The room is so tight to work i could only get about 1/8th of a turn on the bolt for every swing of the wrench. You cant see the bolt, its all done by touch, luck, and PFM. needless to say it was VERY time consuming to remove and replace that rear bolt.
4 bolts and one electrical connector took 4 hours. 3 bolts and connector took about 2 minutes total. 1/2 hour to get out the tools, jack it up, pull the tire and fender liner....the rest of the time was spent ever so slowly spinning that one bolt.
There is no possible way i could have done it from the top as the FSM indicates. I do have dual batteries, but even if i didnt there simply is NOT room up there to work on it. I looked at a friends jeep that has one battery, and I would have removed the battery and tray to get to it if I couldnt go through the fenderwell.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 i give it a 10. No room to work at all, cramped access at best, major PITA to your patience.
I didnt remove the whole fender, just the liner. It gave me about the same amount of acess as removing the whole fender, and I didnt break any clips.
I tried to get pics but it was sunny out and the work area was dark, so they didnt turn out at all.
The dipstick tube for the auto tranny is SERIOUSLY in the way when trying to replace this damned valve. It blocks access to the rearmost bolt leaving only about 1/4" to get a wrench on the bolt (just about the thickness of the wrench i used) I couldnt get the tube out of the transmission so I wound up using a prybar in various locations to temporarily tweak it out of the way while working. I have a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench which was an absolute necessity IMO to get this done. I never would have gotten the rear bolt out without it. The room is so tight to work i could only get about 1/8th of a turn on the bolt for every swing of the wrench. You cant see the bolt, its all done by touch, luck, and PFM. needless to say it was VERY time consuming to remove and replace that rear bolt.
4 bolts and one electrical connector took 4 hours. 3 bolts and connector took about 2 minutes total. 1/2 hour to get out the tools, jack it up, pull the tire and fender liner....the rest of the time was spent ever so slowly spinning that one bolt.
There is no possible way i could have done it from the top as the FSM indicates. I do have dual batteries, but even if i didnt there simply is NOT room up there to work on it. I looked at a friends jeep that has one battery, and I would have removed the battery and tray to get to it if I couldnt go through the fenderwell.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 i give it a 10. No room to work at all, cramped access at best, major PITA to your patience.
06-20-2011, 06:31 AM
#22
JK Jedi Master
This was a joyous adventure.
I didnt remove the whole fender, just the liner. It gave me about the same amount of acess as removing the whole fender, and I didnt break any clips.
I tried to get pics but it was sunny out and the work area was dark, so they didnt turn out at all.
The dipstick tube for the auto tranny is SERIOUSLY in the way when trying to replace this damned valve. It blocks access to the rearmost bolt leaving only about 1/4" to get a wrench on the bolt (just about the thickness of the wrench i used) I couldnt get the tube out of the transmission so I wound up using a prybar in various locations to temporarily tweak it out of the way while working. I have a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench which was an absolute necessity IMO to get this done. I never would have gotten the rear bolt out without it. The room is so tight to work i could only get about 1/8th of a turn on the bolt for every swing of the wrench. You cant see the bolt, its all done by touch, luck, and PFM. needless to say it was VERY time consuming to remove and replace that rear bolt.
4 bolts and one electrical connector took 4 hours. 3 bolts and connector took about 2 minutes total. 1/2 hour to get out the tools, jack it up, pull the tire and fender liner....the rest of the time was spent ever so slowly spinning that one bolt.
There is no possible way i could have done it from the top as the FSM indicates. I do have dual batteries, but even if i didnt there simply is NOT room up there to work on it. I looked at a friends jeep that has one battery, and I would have removed the battery and tray to get to it if I couldnt go through the fenderwell.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 i give it a 10. No room to work at all, cramped access at best, major PITA to your patience.
I didnt remove the whole fender, just the liner. It gave me about the same amount of acess as removing the whole fender, and I didnt break any clips.
I tried to get pics but it was sunny out and the work area was dark, so they didnt turn out at all.
The dipstick tube for the auto tranny is SERIOUSLY in the way when trying to replace this damned valve. It blocks access to the rearmost bolt leaving only about 1/4" to get a wrench on the bolt (just about the thickness of the wrench i used) I couldnt get the tube out of the transmission so I wound up using a prybar in various locations to temporarily tweak it out of the way while working. I have a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench which was an absolute necessity IMO to get this done. I never would have gotten the rear bolt out without it. The room is so tight to work i could only get about 1/8th of a turn on the bolt for every swing of the wrench. You cant see the bolt, its all done by touch, luck, and PFM. needless to say it was VERY time consuming to remove and replace that rear bolt.
4 bolts and one electrical connector took 4 hours. 3 bolts and connector took about 2 minutes total. 1/2 hour to get out the tools, jack it up, pull the tire and fender liner....the rest of the time was spent ever so slowly spinning that one bolt.
There is no possible way i could have done it from the top as the FSM indicates. I do have dual batteries, but even if i didnt there simply is NOT room up there to work on it. I looked at a friends jeep that has one battery, and I would have removed the battery and tray to get to it if I couldnt go through the fenderwell.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 10 i give it a 10. No room to work at all, cramped access at best, major PITA to your patience.
How did you handle the fender liner plastic pop rivets?
I had the rear liners out a couple weeks ago. Found removing the rivets was easy, using the tang of a rat-tail file to push the center pin.
I bought a rivet tool and 40 plastic rivets for $24, from Amazon.
My local Fastenal store has a very good assortment of the plastic rivets; about 40¢ each.
06-20-2011, 06:54 AM
#23
Eternal ***erator
Thanks for the info. I imagine I will be facing this sooner than later.
How did you handle the fender liner plastic pop rivets?
I had the rear liners out a couple weeks ago. Found removing the rivets was easy, using the tang of a rat-tail file to push the center pin.
I bought a rivet tool and 40 plastic rivets for $24, from Amazon.
My local Fastenal store has a very good assortment of the plastic rivets; about 40¢ each.
How did you handle the fender liner plastic pop rivets?
I had the rear liners out a couple weeks ago. Found removing the rivets was easy, using the tang of a rat-tail file to push the center pin.
I bought a rivet tool and 40 plastic rivets for $24, from Amazon.
My local Fastenal store has a very good assortment of the plastic rivets; about 40¢ each.
they are semi-usable still but not perfect. I will end up replacing them. I couldnt get that center piece to pop through, and when it finally did it broke the little tube it slides through on the back side of the rivet. I was going to stop at Napa or Autozone and see if I could find something usable.
07-05-2011, 06:31 PM
#24
JK Newbie
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Great explanation. I like the feedback about the 10mm ratchet-wrench.
EGR valve - eBay motors - 140$ shipped
OBDII scanner - eBay - 40$ shipped
Fender clips - www.clipsandfasteners.com - 15 for 10$
Total = 190$ CAD
Service tech at Chrysler guessed 400$+ for valve replacement. I was too late to save the 85$ "diagnostic fee" for them to tell me the EGR valve was bad. So I'll put my savings at about 100$. (plus I have the scanner and justified buying more tools)
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'll take pictures when I do mine. I have auto tranny.
A mechanic friend also advised me to use high temp anti-seize. This may be a given to most people, but should be thrown out there. I think you can get away with regular anti-seize personally.
EGR valve - eBay motors - 140$ shipped
OBDII scanner - eBay - 40$ shipped
Fender clips - www.clipsandfasteners.com - 15 for 10$
Total = 190$ CAD
Service tech at Chrysler guessed 400$+ for valve replacement. I was too late to save the 85$ "diagnostic fee" for them to tell me the EGR valve was bad. So I'll put my savings at about 100$. (plus I have the scanner and justified buying more tools)
Thanks for taking the time to post this. I'll take pictures when I do mine. I have auto tranny.
A mechanic friend also advised me to use high temp anti-seize. This may be a given to most people, but should be thrown out there. I think you can get away with regular anti-seize personally.
07-13-2011, 12:04 PM
#26
JK Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Roberts Creek, BC
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Anyone know the part number for the EGR? Does anyone else carry it besides the dealer? ($160+ in Canada)
What about cleaning/fixing your existing EGR or does everyone just replace them?
Just threw code P0404! Thanks for the write-up!
Thanks
What about cleaning/fixing your existing EGR or does everyone just replace them?
Just threw code P0404! Thanks for the write-up!
Thanks
07-14-2011, 11:08 AM
#27
JK Newbie
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Had the DTC code P0404 for a couple of days. Ran really low on gas yesterday before filling up. After driving for about 20 minutes the check engine light went off and have not had it come back yet.
Bad gas affecting the EGR?
Bad gas affecting the EGR?
08-05-2011, 06:57 AM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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I have a P0404 code too a few days ago, dealership cant get me in til Aug 17th, the engine is running smooth (no pinging so far), I have the extended bumper to bumper warranty, so we'll see how it goes
thanks for the write up and pics/ tips
oh and I just passed 83,000 kms on my engine, funny thing is, is that this all happened a few kms after filling the tank... maybe shitty reg gas is the problem
thanks for the write up and pics/ tips
oh and I just passed 83,000 kms on my engine, funny thing is, is that this all happened a few kms after filling the tank... maybe shitty reg gas is the problem
08-05-2011, 08:13 AM
#30
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Let me know how it goes Badd Andy.
After the engine light being on for the past 2 weeks and running rough, I drove to work this morning and noticed it was off again. It definitely sounded like it was running better. I'm going to check for a loose wire or something this weekend.
After the engine light being on for the past 2 weeks and running rough, I drove to work this morning and noticed it was off again. It definitely sounded like it was running better. I'm going to check for a loose wire or something this weekend.
