trobblee

I purchased this kit to upgrade my 2015 JKU to have power windows. Seems easy except when it comes to wiring to the ignition power source. The kit reads "connect the green wire from the relay assembly to an ignition power source. This wire must only have power when the ignition key is "on"."

So, I've read a bunch of other forum posts on similar installs and they all say to tie into the pink/white wire from the ignition. Every time I do this, the fuse blows. I tried tying it into my power outlet #1 but same result.

BTW, I am running my power for the relay directly from the battery (fused).

Can anyone give me a straight answer as to where I am supposed to tie this wire in? Would it make sense to use a fuse tap and go directly to my power outlet #2 fuse location? (M7 i believe). A link to the full wiring diagram would be helpful as well if anyone has access to one.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

14Sport

If it's a 4 or 5 pin relay it should be wired as follows...

Pin 85 - 12V switched
Pin 86 - ground
Pin 30 - 12V fused from battery
Pin 87 - to accessory positive.

On a 5 pin relay, pin 87A will be empty.

If you're blowing fuses you have something wired wrong. Sounds like you may have pin 85 and pin 30 reversed.

trobblee

Thanks for the input. I went over the wiring again and it was right. I ripped apart the relay and rewired it.
Come to find out, the relay that came with the package was bad. Plugged in a new relay and bam! 3 days of blown fuses and researching the internet, 1 rain storm then reinstalling my manual crank window and it was a bad relay.
So, now that everything is installed and wired correctly I have to say that this kit is great! Super easy to mechanically install. Fast, quiet, and smooth motors.
I would highly recommend for those who have a JKU and kids. My kids are always leaving the back windows open a crack and the floors get soaked.

trobblee

And for anyone looking to install this in the future, the pink/white wire from the ignition is where to tie in for the switched 12v power.

14Sport

Glad to hear. And glad you got it sorted. It's not often, at least in my experience, that you get a bad relay out of the box. Sounds like pin 30 was shorted to pin 85 internally.

antny

I installed my kit a couple weeks ago and love it also. I got some wires mixed up on the rear that I need to track down when I have some time. My right rear switch rolls down both rear and the rear left rolls them up. Just sure I swapped some wires and need to fix it.

trobblee

How'd you make out with the problem?

antny

I got it fixed. Just mixed up some wires

Gyro_head

I know this thread is pretty old but I started this Electric life power window conversion this weekend and wanted to give some tips and info on the relay that will hopefully prevent some of the frustration with the wiring.

I was having blown fuse issues too and discovered the relay that comes with the kit has a built in flyback diode, this type of relay MUST be wired + to pin #86 and ground to #85...the relay connector is basically the only pre-wired part of the kit and those terminals were REVERSED in the kit. Any other normal relay with or without an internal resistor would work fine if those are reversed but with an internal diode those reversed wires destroyed the relay without even knowing it.

I corrected the + and - on the relay connector but couldn't find a relay with a diode so I ended up getting one with the internal resister which basically does the same thing as an internal diode but without the risk of miswiring, it's also much more common at the parts store.

Also, I have a 2011 JK Sport but had to pull the instrument (speedo) panel off to tap into the orange and grey illumination / dimmer wire from up there. That was also frustrating but luckily someone on this forum pointed that out when all others were saying it was behind the AC controls, not on mine.

The wiring was a PITA and the switches will require some custom fabrication to fit in that little compartment between the vent since there is no way to just cut holes.

I found that it was pretty easy to remove the old mechanism and install the new without disconnecting any of the lock cables (mine has aftermarket electric locks which would have required a little extra work to disconnect.

The right rear motor wires are reversed on the diagram, had to swap those too.

For now the two back windows are done and work great. Front will be soon.

I'm going to call ELectric life to let them know...hopefully they will fix the relay issue but I'm sure others will find out the hard way. Hope this helps