Mossyoakman3006

So what does this thing do anyways?

sixt7gt350

It gets the evap canister out of a very vulnerable location.
The DC boys weren't thinking of offroading when they positioned it.
(Or maybe they were and also thinking of "cha-ching!" for replacement costs.)

07crawler

ok..for those who have done this...is it pretty self explanatory as to where which hoses and clamps go? I am planning on doing this this weekend...great job Stang

tkob1060

The system is used to remove excess fuel tank vapors. this is done while the vehicle is being refueled.

Fuel flowing into the fuel filler tube creates an aspiration effect drawing air into the fuel fill tube. During refueling, the fuel tank is vented to the EVAP canister to capture escaping vapors. With air clowing into the filler tube, there are no fuel vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Once the refueling vapors are captured by the EVAP canister, the vehicles computer controlled purge system draws vapor out of the canister for the engine to burn. The vapor flow is metered by the purge solenoid so that there is no, or minimal impact on driveability or tailpipe emissions.

As fuel starts to flow through the fuel filler tube, it opens the normally closed check valve and enters the fuel tank. Vapor or air is expelled from the tank through the control valve and on to the vapor canister. Vapor is absorbed in the EVAP canister until vapor flow in the line stops. this stoppage occurs following fuel shutoff, or by having the fuel level in the tank rise enough to close the control valve. This control valve contains a float that rises to seal the large diameter vent path to the EVAP canister. At this point in the refueling process, fuel tank pressure increases, the check valve closes,(preventing liquid fuel from spiting back at the operator) and fuel then rises up the fuel filler tube to shut off the dispensing nozzle.

thats about it, and Jeep put it in the best place for a rock to hit it and then made it out of plastic

07crawler

bump...need to know fast

sixt7gt350

Too late!
I never got around to this before yesterday's trip.
No problems yesterday and no light on the way home.
Today, I start it up to take recycling into town and the check engine light came on. The dreaded P0440 code.
I didn't see any damage yesterday, but time to crawl underneath and it's been raining all day.

stangjeeper

Bummer deal man, Hope you didn't puncture it. Ive been to the badlands a few times if your referring to the one in Attica, IN and there are lots places that would damage it.
Get that sucker moved asap.

stangjeeper

Sorry I just now saw your question. Yes its pretty easy to figure out which two hoses and where the clamps go. There are only two hoses coming from the canister, you will notice this when you look at it.

TheonlyREDhead 2008 JK

Stang jeeper, How about we meet up and I will help cut your fenders and you help me do this evap relocation. The directions look all chinese to me, rofl.

Red

sixt7gt350

No O'Reilly's near me, so I got the fasteners (in stainless) at Ace (no 5/8" hose), hose at Napa (no 5/8" elbows), and elbows at Carquest.
3 1/4-20 x 1" bolts
3 1/4-20 nuts
3 1/4-20 lockwashers
6 1/4-20 fender washers

I didn't remove the rear seat, just the carpet. (all carpet aft of the front seats since I had mud to clean up under the rear seat carpet anyway)

I didn't flatten the bracket, but actually put more bend on the portion over the RR coil so everything would sit flat. (the rear edge of the bracket resting on the brace under the rear floor)

I marked and drilled 1/4" holes in the bracket, two in the center of the vehicle (one hole already in bracket) and one on the RH side. (two holes already in bracket)
With the evap canister on the bracket, I then marked and drilled the two holes in the center of the body through the holes in the bracket. I installed the center fasteners, then measured and drilled the other hole in the body from the top. (PERFECT!)
I used a wood spade bit to make pockets in the sound deadener up top.

I tightened all the fasteners and slid the evap canister into place. The hook end of fence pliers was perfect for bending the bracket lock tab back down with the bracket already installed.


The 5/8" hose must have been from the end of the reel, since it had a fairly tight radius. I was able to go directly from the tee at the tank to the evap canister without an elbow. Clamps on both ends. (I wasn't real keen on cutting the factory hose off the tee, but there really wasn't any other way without kinking the daylights out of it.)

I rotated the hose from the filler neck so it went up and over the filler pipe. An elbow from there, then a piece of 5/8" hose to the EVIM. (I didn't break my canister but snapped the retention ears off the EVIM. $8.50 from the local dealer, part will be here tomorrow) The EVIM is the white part with an electrical connection and a slip-fit hose connection. It is a separate piece that comes off. (or breaks off, in my case)
I may revisit this piece of hose to put the elbow like stangjeeper. His routing keeps the hose farther away from the exhaust pipe.

The only time I needed the jack under the vehicle was to fit the drill between the diff and the rear floor for the two holes in the center of the body. (A very LONG drill.)

I have a lift, so I had room for diff vertical movement. Stock setup may require you to get the evap bracket as close the rear floor as possible.

The toughest part of the whole job was getting the e-brake cable "bracket" rebent for proper routing. In addition to bringing the loops down and in, I also put spacers behind the "bracket" to drop the cables down.

I'm probably going to put some pipe insulation around the evap hoses to protect them from contact/rubbing.