10frank9

This write up shows the installation of the OR-Fab Tire/Can Carrier for the JK or JKU. This is my first official write up and I did this install by myself so please be kind. I don’t have photos of every step but I took photos of some of the things I know I had questions on before I started the install. Hope you all find this usefull.

This is a list of the tools and hardware I needed to complete this install.

Angle drill
Corded or cordless drill
Torx T50
Die grinder or Dremel with a grinding stone
Phillips head screwdriver
13mm wrench
19mm wrench
13mm socket
19mm socket
½” inch drill bit
3/8” inch drill bit
1/8” inch drill bit
1” inch hole saw
Rubber hammer
Lithium Grease
RTV Silicone sealant

To attach the Hi-Lift jack:
2 - 3/8” x 1 ½” bolts and washers

Before:
Attachment 374652

First, off you have to remove your spare tire and any accessories you may have attached to your rear tailgate. I had a CB antenna with a bracket mounted to the stock spare tire carrier. I also had the Smittybilt G.E.A.R. tailgate cover installed. All of this came off before I started the install.

I removed the stock spare tire carrier and 3rd brake light. I also removed both taillights. (I didn’t remove my rear bumper for this install, I run this way 365).

Remove the plastic hinge covers. Just use two hands and pull firmly to the left and towards you and they should pop off. Be sure to take note or mark, which one is upper and lower. The upper is shallower than the lower.


Next remove the four screws that attach the tailgate hinges to the tailgate using a 13mm socket. Be sure to support the bottom of the tailgate on the side you just removed the hinges from as it sags a bit. Also as a precautionary measure, lock the tailgate with the key so as to prevent any dumb mistakes.

Also remove the hinges from the body using the Torx T50. (not pictured)



Once the hinges have been removed, again be sure to take note or mark which is the upper and lower as this does make a difference when re-installing (found out the hard way). Use a die grinder (preffered) or in my case a Dremel with a grinding stone to grind down the center section of the hinge where it pivots around the third bolt (pictured). This allows clearance when opening the tailgate when the new hardware is installed.

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Use gloves when grinding these down and make sure to take a break to let the hinge and tool cool down. This is a long tedious process with a Dremel. Guessing it would’ve been faster and less of a pain with a Die Grinder.



Once you’ve ground down the hinge use a bolt and dry fit it to make sure it clears when opened. If so, install the upper and lower hinges with the hinge plate spacers and the hinge plate bracket along with the hardware provided. Snug up the bolts but do not tighten.

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Attach the hinges to the tailgate with the tailgate hinge spacers and hardware provided. Be sure to take note that one spacer is deeper than the other and will only install on the lower portion of the tailgate. (not pictured)


Next remove the carpet from the left side of the Jeep near the tailgate striker pad. Pull the weather stripping away. Measure 4” and 11” up from the bottom left corner of the body and mark then center punch. A stencil would’ve been nice here my instructions did not come with one. Drill a small hole and be sure they align with the landing block bracket you place inside of the left tail light housing. This can be a pain as mine was actually 4.5” and 11.5” up respectively. Once this is dialed in you can drill out ½” holes and install the hardware provided.



Once these are installed. Use the angle drill with a1/8” drill bit to make some pilot holes for the top of the bracket from the inside of the tail light housing. This will end up near the rear roll bar.

Drill a pilot hole for the center hole of the landing block, which will end up on the outside of your Jeep. This one is the most difficult as your angle has to be perfect, otherwise you have to widen your hole once you drill out the 1” hole through the outer layer of sheet metal. You can see in the photo that the internal hole is oblong.


Install the landing block being sure to coat the outside of the spacer with some RTV silicone sealant…. And install a sticker of your choice above the landing block to cover up any scratches that may have happened during the course of the install (eeek).


Next, I installed the tire carrier rack using the provided hardware. Another set of hands will surely keep you from blurting out curse words in rapid succession and sweating excessively. The most difficult portion of this step of the install is using some lithium grease to lube up the washers and bolt and keeping them in your hands. Sliding the bolt through all the spacers and washers required some rubber mallet blows. (Note the rubber dust, reminiscent of your grade school desk covered with eraser dust during a math test)

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Okay you’re nearly there! Now install the bracket inside of the right tail light housing. One end ties into the long third bolt on the upper hinge mount and the other needs a 3/8” hole drilled using an angle drill.

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Now the rest I think is pretty self-explanatory. Installing the spare tire, Jerry cans and high-lift jack. Finish it up by tightening down all of the hardware and making sure the spare tire carrier gate swings open and closes well. I noticed that I have to lift up the tire carrier about ¼” in order for it to fit inside of the landing block. From what I understand some sagging is common especially when loaded up. I’m okay with some minimal sag.

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Hope this was helpful. Here are some after pics.

Attachment 374694


Attachment 374732



Attachment 374733



Attachment 374734

Mackey

Awesome thread and great job. I'm gonna hire you for my next build

10frank9

Wow thanks bro!

Robar

Good info. Just did this a couple of weeks ago. Would have been nice to have had this around.

JE8154

I'm gonna be doing this next weekend. definitely makes the install seem less scary.