lari88

Ya the angles are terrible especially when you are leaning over the front fenders. I am 6 foot and i had to get a box to stand on so I could reach my arm down there.

Ario56

From the picture, all your plugs look normal. The one in the upper right looks a little wet. That might just be the picture, or if you used some sort of penetrating lube. As long as it's not gas you're in good shape.

Here's a quick breakdown of spark plug analysis:
h++p://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html

Tuto

The Upper Right one(right row) and the Second one(middle) on the Left row look in better shape than the other plugs.

yo_marc

FWIW - Silver plugs already come with an anti-seize coating.

Black plugs are ones that could/would benefit from anti-seize. (Per NGK documentation).

Personally, I'm against anti-seize on plugs. I've done it in the past, and it coked up on the threads making removal harder. BMW warns against using anti-seize stating that it can cause poor grounding between the plug and head.

ronjenx

The subject of using anti-seize on spark plugs has good and bad points on both sides.
I use stuff designed for spark plus, applied sparingly on the threads.
I use it because I've never had a problem with it, and have had problems without it.

This is from the 2008 Factory Service Manual regarding spark plug installation:

1. Coat threads of spark plug with anti-seize. Be sure not to get anti-seize ANYWHERE BUT ON THE THREADS OF THE SPARK PLUG..
2. To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
3. Tighten spark plugs by referring to the Torque Specifications chart. [12 ft./lbs.]
4. Install spark plug cables over spark plugs. A click will be heard and felt when the cable properly attaches to the spark plug.


The instructions above state to "coat" the threads with anti-seize. I can't imagine that means to gob it on, so I apply it sparingly.
Since the manual expects anti-seize to be used, the torque specification takes that into consideration.

horrocks007

Thanks for the write up and all the comments, I changed my plugs this weekend. No problems and there was a noticeable difference in the jeeps sound and power.

Jeep is at 60,000 miles.

TreyJK

Thanks for the write up! Just did mine at a little over 85,000 miles, which was a little overdue.

Old Guard

Nice write-up and some good follow up points. Question - what about the wires, replacement, thoughts anyone?

TreyJK

I got a set of Crown wires from Quadratec at a reasonable price. I figured I might as well replace them while I have everything torn apart. The hardest part is routing 1,3, and 5 behind the engine but even that's not too difficult.

Tombstone17

Just a quick helper. One, use a piece of tubeing over the end of the plug to help start it before using the wrench on it. Like vacuum tubeing works well, and a tight fit, helps you start it in the threads.. Two, I use a board, 1/2 x 6" and lay it across the rad. and cowl to lay on and work over the engine, plugs are better from the side though.....