Jasontamu

So I installed a BOLT brand hood lock last night.....i opted for the bolt lock because it uses the factory key. Also, it turns out its a decent amount cheaper than the mopar lock as well.

So, I hate rivets and didn't plan to use the rivet install. I did see that other jeep jk hood lock setups/brands have you tap and thread the existing holes an use bolts that grab the thin threaded sheet metal core support.

My original plan was to use my tap and die set and tap the 4 holes and use metric bolts I had laying around. After taking the hood up and removing the grill you can see that a M8 tap would work, but the core support isn't that thick and I questioned the integrity of tapping that metal plus then time involved, possibly screwing up a tap, etc, etc.....

So as i looked at that bish, I realized that the holes are offset from each other a wee bit....

It took me a whole 20 sec to find some 2.5 inch long 1/4 inch self tapping sheet metal screws that had bonded washers I had in my bucket of "maybe one day" pile.

So, I noticed that the core support is thicker front to back than it is top to bottom.

Top to bottom is about 1.5 inch thick:
Front to back is about exactly 2 inch thick:



Installed you can see the self tapping screws. I angled more than i had too. but it works just fine and no one can see it.

The screw on the drivers side is obvious here, but when the jeep grill is back on its covered. yes you can also cut it if you want (dremel, etc).

Installed:


Further, the green circle in the picture is simply the wire loop clip i removed to aid in install. its about the exact same size as the holes I run the screws through. just for reference.

Further, the screws going front to back - they are "BARELY" long enough WITHOUT the bonded washers on them. they barely grabbed. see the screws are 2.5 inch long, but about 3/8 inch of the bolt is the self tapping drill bit feature, so the first thread barely engaged the sheet metal.

SO,
If i were doing this again i would use 3 inch self tapping screws and cut the exposed shank off the drivers side screw as it would be just that much longer. AGAIN, its unseen when the jeep grill is back on, so you dont NEED to cut it. I didnt and never will.

Then I would recommend installing the front to back screws first, so that you can angle the top to bottom screws only the wee bit you need and not anymore than needed. you can see the angle on the head of mine in the pics.

Maybe if you wanted to you could use thicker self tapping screws and grab some of the metal of the existing holes the screws pass through, but i really don't think that's needed at all.

further, the front to back screws don't get anywhere close to the radiator..if you look behind the core support there is a good 2 inches or more of clearance after you punch through the core support.

Also,
Thought i would share the instructions that come with the BOLT hood lock:


This install when I decided to go sheet metal screws took not even 2 minutes....

Its very secure and I cant imagine it ever being a problem.

I know some people don't like "drilling" on their brand new car, yada yada, whatever.... i get it. save the douche bag comments for your pillow talk....keyboard tough guys can pay someone to install this for them....

I'm just sharing another option........it also saves you from spending another $20 bucks on harbor freight rivet gun.

Thanks,
-J

fercho

I was thinking about doing the same thing, thanks for posting this

Huk

Excellent- thanks. Your pictures are a great help.