Line-X, or a bad way to spend a week (Warning for dial-up)
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JK Super Freak
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Line-X, or a bad way to spend a week (Warning for dial-up)
So, after much talking about how I was going to get my tub Line-X'd, the day finally came that I had my appointment to get it done. However, in efforts to save money, I had first taken apart almost everything I could and still drive it.
So, for this project, the tools needed include: 1/2" drive socket wrench, 18mm socket, 10mm socket, T30, T40, and T50 torx bits. An impact wrench and a plastic interior trim remover help, but aren't really needed. I wish I had them though.
So first, you have to take everything out, as mentioned.
Then you sand. First with a power sander, then by hand where it can't get in.
Then the taping. I learned that if you undo the right taillight, you can route that entire harness up the C pillar and down the B pillar. Without taking off the transmission plate itself, as well as the sound bar and the back roll bar, you can't get all the wiring out because there aren't quick connects. Also, the freaking satellite wire can't be completely removed either (that I could tell).
Into the bay
Completing the taping.
After getting it out, before finishing the interior trim. You can see some overspray into the gap, but I had a bag covering the lock mechanism, so no worries about damaging it.
Blowing out dust. The bolt holes are protected with golf tees wrapped with tape before spraying.
Finished product
Here you can see how good it looks in the footwell
And here is the Line-X logo. You can see that we didn't spray the bottom of the C pillar because one of the T50s stripped the head at the factory, so we couldn't get the seat belt harness off. Rather than risk it, we just taped it off. I did trim the Darth Vader helmets some.
The tuffy cubby cover. It works great with Line-X on it, doesn't rattle anymore (especially with the rubber trim I put on).
Belt line trim. I really like the way this looks with the rest of the black on the outside of the Jeep.
So, for this project, the tools needed include: 1/2" drive socket wrench, 18mm socket, 10mm socket, T30, T40, and T50 torx bits. An impact wrench and a plastic interior trim remover help, but aren't really needed. I wish I had them though.
So first, you have to take everything out, as mentioned.
Then you sand. First with a power sander, then by hand where it can't get in.
Then the taping. I learned that if you undo the right taillight, you can route that entire harness up the C pillar and down the B pillar. Without taking off the transmission plate itself, as well as the sound bar and the back roll bar, you can't get all the wiring out because there aren't quick connects. Also, the freaking satellite wire can't be completely removed either (that I could tell).
Into the bay
Completing the taping.
After getting it out, before finishing the interior trim. You can see some overspray into the gap, but I had a bag covering the lock mechanism, so no worries about damaging it.
Blowing out dust. The bolt holes are protected with golf tees wrapped with tape before spraying.
Finished product
Here you can see how good it looks in the footwell
And here is the Line-X logo. You can see that we didn't spray the bottom of the C pillar because one of the T50s stripped the head at the factory, so we couldn't get the seat belt harness off. Rather than risk it, we just taped it off. I did trim the Darth Vader helmets some.
The tuffy cubby cover. It works great with Line-X on it, doesn't rattle anymore (especially with the rubber trim I put on).
Belt line trim. I really like the way this looks with the rest of the black on the outside of the Jeep.
#2
JK Super Freak
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I would like to say that even with all that I had taken out before driving to the place, it still took us 5 hours to mask the rest of it off. In all, I was there 8 hours on Friday, and probably spent another 4-5 hours periodically during the week taking off random parts. I didn't want any product on the doors, so I didn't take them with me.
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that looks great! I have been pacing the floor trying to decide on Rhino (i work at a rhino dealer) or Line-X. the line-x seems to be a more uniform texture and over all appears better. However i can get it done at work for around $600 so
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Oh, and for those that ask, with me doing all the work (including helping a ton at the shop), my price was $472.52 with tax. I paid him $515 because he did such a good job and because I wasn't expecting it to be that cheap. Plus, I'm not poor, and if anyone wants to ask, this was done in Greenville, NC.
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aint that a Beach My boss wants me to pay $600 and i take all the stuff out, and here you paid $515 and you are a regular customer Gonna have to have a chat with my boss
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#8
Looks amazing. The more I see this the more I want to do it too. Only problem is when I did this to my truck bed, it had a bad tendency to show dirt real bad. Seemed real hard to keep clean looking.
So i'm hesitant still..but damn that looks sharp
So i'm hesitant still..but damn that looks sharp
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On the plus side, I learned this week that the Seat Glovers/CoverKing seat covers work spectacularly, as I had the top off, and it rained into my Jeep, but my actual seat cushion remained dry under the neoprene.
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That looks great. How many hours of prep time did you put into it before you drove it in? Also, Can you get the color close to factory?
I entertain the idea of shooting the whole thing - inside and out. I don't really care too much about smooth shiney paint, I just want impregnable bodywork.
I entertain the idea of shooting the whole thing - inside and out. I don't really care too much about smooth shiney paint, I just want impregnable bodywork.