LOD Backup Light Installation With Three-Position Switch
05-12-2010, 09:10 PM
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
LOD Backup Light Installation With Three-Position Switch
Hello everyone. I recently purchased the LOD rear bumper, along with the backup light kit. I desired an installation that would let me control the lights via a dash-mount switch and have the following options:
1. Backup lights on, regardless of whether or not the key is in the ignition.
2. Backup lights completely off.
3. Backup lights on automatically when the Jeep is put into reverse.
After much research, I decided the best option would be a blue lense DPDT Carling Contura switch, a relay, and a 12AWG circuit straight to the battery. The wiring diagram, parts list, and write-up below are a summation of my installation. I hope that this helps any of you that wish to complete an installation similar to mine. Feel free to PM me with any questions--I am by no means an expert, but I might be able to lend a hand. There is a chance that I left a step or two out--I wrote this over a period of several days after the installation--so please let me know if there are any ommissions.
Lastly, I assume no liability for damage to your vehicle, property, person, or the vehicle/property of another. Proceed at your own risk, and, good luck!
-Dawn Marie (and her ever-patient installer, Chris)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shopping List:
Image: Shopping List
Please be aware that The DPDT switch is Carling part #VJDJD66B-AYC77-18B. This specific switch will illuminate the upper light in position 1. No lights will be illuminated in position 2 (off), and the lower light will be illuminated in position 3 only when the vehicle is actually placed in reverse. I plan to change out the switch once OTRATTW has one with the lower light wired separately (e.g. to turn on when the vehicle lights are turned on).
------------------------------------------------------------------
Write-up:
*** Note: this installation assumes a Jeep JK Unlimited, automatic transmission, LOD rear bumper with backup light kit, and Daystar lower dash panel. You will have to adjust accordingly if your vehicle differs from this configuration. ***
Image: Wiring Diagram
1. Cut up the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Image: LOD Wiring Harness (cut up)
2. Create the wiring for the DPDT switch.
Note: before running the wires, it is necessary to remove the center dash bezel, glove box, Daystar lower dash panel, and passenger’s dash side panel. There are several documents and threads with instructions on how to do this. It might easier to access the wiring behind the center bezel if the transmission is placed into 1st gear (with the e-brake engaged).
Note: Before proceeding, completely disconnect any terminals from their batteries. For this installation, the red/green striped wire which supplies +12V to the Power Outlet was tapped. This was done so that the backup lights could be switched on without the vehicle running. Other options are available, including connecting to the ignition-switched +12V wiring (which supplies the left-most power outlet), or running a hot or ignition-switched power lead to the fuse box. Pick whichever source is most appropriate; wiring length will need adjustment as necessary.
1. Backup lights on, regardless of whether or not the key is in the ignition.
2. Backup lights completely off.
3. Backup lights on automatically when the Jeep is put into reverse.
After much research, I decided the best option would be a blue lense DPDT Carling Contura switch, a relay, and a 12AWG circuit straight to the battery. The wiring diagram, parts list, and write-up below are a summation of my installation. I hope that this helps any of you that wish to complete an installation similar to mine. Feel free to PM me with any questions--I am by no means an expert, but I might be able to lend a hand. There is a chance that I left a step or two out--I wrote this over a period of several days after the installation--so please let me know if there are any ommissions.
Lastly, I assume no liability for damage to your vehicle, property, person, or the vehicle/property of another. Proceed at your own risk, and, good luck!
-Dawn Marie (and her ever-patient installer, Chris)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shopping List:
Image: Shopping List
Please be aware that The DPDT switch is Carling part #VJDJD66B-AYC77-18B. This specific switch will illuminate the upper light in position 1. No lights will be illuminated in position 2 (off), and the lower light will be illuminated in position 3 only when the vehicle is actually placed in reverse. I plan to change out the switch once OTRATTW has one with the lower light wired separately (e.g. to turn on when the vehicle lights are turned on).
------------------------------------------------------------------
Write-up:
*** Note: this installation assumes a Jeep JK Unlimited, automatic transmission, LOD rear bumper with backup light kit, and Daystar lower dash panel. You will have to adjust accordingly if your vehicle differs from this configuration. ***
Image: Wiring Diagram
1. Cut up the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Note: The LOD backup light wiring harness is not long enough to reach a dash-mount switch. For this installation, it is necessary to extract the white and black power/ground leads from the original harness. The two remaining connectors (black 16AWG stranded copper with female bullet connecter & snap spade connecter, and black 16AWG stranded copper with female bullet connecter & snap spade connecter) were not used for this installation, but it might be possible to re-use the black wire for the DPDT switch ground wire if so desired.
Image: LOD Wiring Harness (cut up)
2. Create the wiring for the DPDT switch.
a. Reverse Power Tap.
- Cut an 8” section of red 16AWG from the spool and strip both ends.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is oriented toward the female bullet connector – this is the direction in which the current will ultimately flow (to the switch); diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. If the diode is accidentally oriented in the wrong direction, no current will flow to the switch.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
Image: Reverse Power Tap
- Cut a 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper wire (this wire will ultimately be cut to length, but it is advisable to start with a longer section in the event that wiring /crimping/soldering issues are encountered).
- Solder the other end of the 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder to the 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
b. Dash power tap.- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is oriented toward the female bullet connector – this is the direction in which the current will ultimately flow (to the switch); diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. If the diode is accidentally oriented in the wrong direction, no current will flow to the switch.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
Image: Reverse Power Tap
- Cut a 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper wire (this wire will ultimately be cut to length, but it is advisable to start with a longer section in the event that wiring /crimping/soldering issues are encountered).
- Solder the other end of the 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder to the 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Cut an 8” section from the spool of red 16AWG stranded copper and strip both ends.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is pointing in the direction of the female bullet connector
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is pointing in the direction of the female bullet connector
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
c. DPDT switch to ground.
Note: There are several options to connect the DPDT switch to ground. For this installation, the grounding bolts in the passenger side foot well were chosen, but several of the metal pieces behind the dash can provide ground as well (this can be verified with a multi-meter and a positive lead from the battery). If a ground point that is closer to the switch than the passenger-side grounding bolts is desired, it *might* be possible to recycle the black wire that was cut out of the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Note: There are several options to connect the DPDT switch to ground. For this installation, the grounding bolts in the passenger side foot well were chosen, but several of the metal pieces behind the dash can provide ground as well (this can be verified with a multi-meter and a positive lead from the battery). If a ground point that is closer to the switch than the passenger-side grounding bolts is desired, it *might* be possible to recycle the black wire that was cut out of the LOD backup light wiring harness.
- Strip one end of the black 16AW stranded copper spool. This wire will eventually be cut to length; just leave it as a spool for now.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
d. Connection from the DPDT switch to the relay.
3. Run the wiring to the DPDT switch.- Strip one end the red 16AW stranded copper spool. This wire will eventually be cut to length; just leave it as a spool for now.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Note: before running the wires, it is necessary to remove the center dash bezel, glove box, Daystar lower dash panel, and passenger’s dash side panel. There are several documents and threads with instructions on how to do this. It might easier to access the wiring behind the center bezel if the transmission is placed into 1st gear (with the e-brake engaged).
a. Wrap the dash frame’s sharp metal edges with electrical tape.
Note: do not connect the “dash power” wire to the back of the DPDT switch at this time. This wire will be soldered to the dash wiring before connecting it to the DPDT switch.
4. Connect the switch ground and dash power tap to vehicle ground and power.- The DPDT switch wires will be routed through the dash frame, just above the glove box (see the picture further down for a visual). It is highly recommended to wrap electrical tape around the sharp edges of the metal frame so that the wires don’t suffer any damage. Looming can be used as an alternate, but there is not much room.
b. Route the wires to the DPDT switch.- Route the reverse power tap, switch ground, and relay switch wires up the right side of the dash, through the frame above the glove box, and then into the center console area.
- Zip tie the wires as appropriate.
Image: Routing The Wires
Image: Routing the Wires Through the Glove Box
Image: Routing the Wires Into the Dash
c. Connect the switch wires to the DPDT switch.- Zip tie the wires as appropriate.
Image: Routing The Wires
Image: Routing the Wires Through the Glove Box
Image: Routing the Wires Into the Dash
Note: do not connect the “dash power” wire to the back of the DPDT switch at this time. This wire will be soldered to the dash wiring before connecting it to the DPDT switch.
- Cut a hole for the DPDT switch in the Daystar lower dash panel.
- Route the switch wires through the hole that was just created.
- Connect the switch ground wire to port #7 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the reverse power tap wire to port #4 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the relay switch wire to port #5 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Route the switch wires through the hole that was just created.
- Connect the switch ground wire to port #7 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the reverse power tap wire to port #4 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the relay switch wire to port #5 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
Note: Before proceeding, completely disconnect any terminals from their batteries. For this installation, the red/green striped wire which supplies +12V to the Power Outlet was tapped. This was done so that the backup lights could be switched on without the vehicle running. Other options are available, including connecting to the ignition-switched +12V wiring (which supplies the left-most power outlet), or running a hot or ignition-switched power lead to the fuse box. Pick whichever source is most appropriate; wiring length will need adjustment as necessary.
a. Locate the red/green stripe wire that supplies +12V to the Power Outlet.
Image: Red Wire With Green Stripe
b. Connect the dash power tap to the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire.
Note: If recycling the ground wire from the original LOD wiring harness is desired, find an acceptable ground that is within reach of the wire.
Image: Red Wire With Green Stripe
b. Connect the dash power tap to the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire.
- Strip back about ¾” of the red/green stripe wire’s insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the dash power tap wire around the stripped section of the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Connect the dash power tap wire to port #6 on the rear of the DPDT switch. At this point, all four wires should be connected to the back of the DPDT switch as shown in the picture below.
Image: DPDT Switch With Wires Attached
c. Connect the reverse power tap wire to the white/gray stripe reverse power wire.- Wrap the stripped end of the dash power tap wire around the stripped section of the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Connect the dash power tap wire to port #6 on the rear of the DPDT switch. At this point, all four wires should be connected to the back of the DPDT switch as shown in the picture below.
Image: DPDT Switch With Wires Attached
- Remove the plastic paneling that is located between the passenger’s seat and the door, and that extends all the way through the passenger’s side right foot well.
- Locate the wiring bundle.
- Locate the white wire with the thin gray stripe within the wiring bundle.
- Pick an easily accessible section of the white/gray stripe wire, and strip back about ¾” of the wire’s insulation.
Image: White Wire With Gray Stripe
- Route the reverse power tap wire to the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the reverse power tap wire around the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
d. Connect the switch ground wire to vehicle ground.- Locate the wiring bundle.
- Locate the white wire with the thin gray stripe within the wiring bundle.
- Pick an easily accessible section of the white/gray stripe wire, and strip back about ¾” of the wire’s insulation.
Image: White Wire With Gray Stripe
- Route the reverse power tap wire to the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the reverse power tap wire around the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Note: If recycling the ground wire from the original LOD wiring harness is desired, find an acceptable ground that is within reach of the wire.
- Locate the two grounding bolts in the right side of the passenger’s foot well.
Image: Ground Bolts
Image: Ground Bolts
- Route the switch ground wire to this location, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Crimp a 16AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Remove the nut from one of the ground bolts, slide the ring terminal over the bolt, and re-install the nut.
Image: Switch Ground Connected to Ground Bolt
- Crimp a 16AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Remove the nut from one of the ground bolts, slide the ring terminal over the bolt, and re-install the nut.
Image: Switch Ground Connected to Ground Bolt
... CONTINUED IN NEXT POST ...
Last edited by OnBelay; 06-19-2013 at 09:42 PM.
05-12-2010, 09:35 PM
#2
JK Jedi
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Great write-up! I will definitely be using this once I get the LoD bumper.
Edit: Damn...looks like I jumped the gun. I was just excited about having the wiring diagram. The rest of this write up is even better. Thanks again for taking the time to put this together!!
Edit: Damn...looks like I jumped the gun. I was just excited about having the wiring diagram. The rest of this write up is even better. Thanks again for taking the time to put this together!!
Last edited by Sharkey; 05-13-2010 at 09:00 AM.
05-12-2010, 09:44 PM
#3
JK Freak
Thread Starter
... Continued ...
5. Create and run the relay wiring.
6. Connect the backup light wiring harness to the lights.
a. Create the relay power input wire.
- Cut 17’ of wire from the white 12AWG stranded copper spool.
- Strip off about 1” of insulation from one end.
- Strip off about 1” of insulation from one end of the fuse holder.
- Interlock the ends of the stripped wires. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable but difficult with this thickness of wire.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Insert the 20A fuse into the fuse holder.
Image: Relay Power Input Wire With Fuse Attached
- Strip off about 1” of insulation from remaining end of the fuse holder.
- Crimp a 12AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Fuse With Ring Connector Attached
b. Create the relay ground wire- Strip off about 1” of insulation from one end.
- Strip off about 1” of insulation from one end of the fuse holder.
- Interlock the ends of the stripped wires. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable but difficult with this thickness of wire.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Insert the 20A fuse into the fuse holder.
Image: Relay Power Input Wire With Fuse Attached
- Strip off about 1” of insulation from remaining end of the fuse holder.
- Crimp a 12AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Fuse With Ring Connector Attached
- Cut a 4’ section of black 12AWG stranded copper and strip 1” of insulation off of both ends.
- Crimp a 12AWG 3/8” ring terminal to one of the wire's stripped ends. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 12AWG snap spade connector to the remaining stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. If necessary, bend out the ends of the spade connector so that they can somewhat fit around at least a 3/8” bolt.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Ground Wire
- Crimp a 12AWG 3/8” ring terminal to one of the wire's stripped ends. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 12AWG snap spade connector to the remaining stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. If necessary, bend out the ends of the spade connector so that they can somewhat fit around at least a 3/8” bolt.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Ground Wire
c. Route the relay power input wire.
- Using the tried and true “coat hanger trick”, pull the free end of the white power wire through the passenger’s side firewall.
- Route the wire along the same path as the reverse power tap wire.
- Pull up the carpet immediately behind the passenger seat.
Image: Rear Seat With Carpet Pulled Up
- From behind the passenger’s seat, slide the coat hanger under the plastic trim to the right of the passenger’s seat until it pokes through to the other side. It should reach approximately to the same location as the reverse wire tap that was created earlier.
- Attach the free end of the white wire to the end of the coat hanger, and pull until the end of the white wire is visible.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input to the Back Seat
- Lower the rear seat.
- Pull up the carpet along the passenger’s side of the rear seat and fender, and route the white wire alongside the existing wiring loom.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input Over the Rear Fender
- Pull up the carpet along the passenger’s side of the cargo area, and route the wire alongside the existing wiring loom.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input Along the Rear
- Locate and pull up the rubber grommet; remove the electrical tape at the bottom.
Image: Grommet Above Tail Light Enclosure
- Route the wire along the same path as the reverse power tap wire.
- Pull up the carpet immediately behind the passenger seat.
Image: Rear Seat With Carpet Pulled Up
- From behind the passenger’s seat, slide the coat hanger under the plastic trim to the right of the passenger’s seat until it pokes through to the other side. It should reach approximately to the same location as the reverse wire tap that was created earlier.
- Attach the free end of the white wire to the end of the coat hanger, and pull until the end of the white wire is visible.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input to the Back Seat
- Lower the rear seat.
- Pull up the carpet along the passenger’s side of the rear seat and fender, and route the white wire alongside the existing wiring loom.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input Over the Rear Fender
- Pull up the carpet along the passenger’s side of the cargo area, and route the wire alongside the existing wiring loom.
Image: Routing the Relay Power Input Along the Rear
- Locate and pull up the rubber grommet; remove the electrical tape at the bottom.
Image: Grommet Above Tail Light Enclosure
- Feed the white wire through the grommet. It is a tight fit, but it is possible without cutting the grommet itself.
Image: Relay Power Input Through the Grommet
- Remove the passenger’s side tail light housing.
- Feed the white wire through grommet’s chassis hole and out through the back of the Jeep.
Image: Relay Power Input in Tail Light Enclosure
- Strip the end of the relay power input wire.
- Crimp a 12AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
d. Route the relay switch wire.Image: Relay Power Input Through the Grommet
- Remove the passenger’s side tail light housing.
- Feed the white wire through grommet’s chassis hole and out through the back of the Jeep.
Image: Relay Power Input in Tail Light Enclosure
- Strip the end of the relay power input wire.
- Crimp a 12AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Route the relay switch wire alongside the relay power input wire and through the grommet using the same methods as above.
- After both wires have been routed, replace the grommet and re-apply electrical tape to the area from which it was previously removed.
Image: Routing the Relay Switch Wire Through the Grommet
Image: Routing the Relay Switch Wire Through the Grommet
- Cut the end of the relay switch wire so that approximately 2 feet protrude from the bottom of the grommet.
- Strip the end of the relay switch wire.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Switch Wire With Connector Attached
e. Route the relay ground wire.- After both wires have been routed, replace the grommet and re-apply electrical tape to the area from which it was previously removed.
Image: Routing the Relay Switch Wire Through the Grommet
Image: Routing the Relay Switch Wire Through the Grommet
- Cut the end of the relay switch wire so that approximately 2 feet protrude from the bottom of the grommet.
- Strip the end of the relay switch wire.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Image: Relay Switch Wire With Connector Attached
- Choose a bolt that will provide an effective ground (one of the LOD bumper’s bolts should be sufficient) and that has a low likelihood of damage due to rocks, road debris, etc. To test for ground, connect the relay input wire to the positive lead on the battery, plug the multi-meter’s positive lead into the relay power input wire’s female bullet connector, and touch the multi-meter’s negative lead to the bolt. If the multi-meter reads a steady 12V or more, then the bolt will serve as a good ground. If the multi-meter reads less than 12V (or if the voltage fluctuates) then seek a different grounding bolt. Disconnect the relay power input wire from the battery once testing has been completed.
- Loosen the designated ground bolt’s nut, slip the relay ground wire’s snap spade connector beneath it, and then re-tighten the bolt.
Image: Relay Ground Wire Connected to Ground Bolt
- Push up the foam liner on the bottom of the tail light enclosure; route the relay ground wire up through the light enclosure and out through the back of the Jeep.
Image: Routing the Relay Ground Wire
- Loosen the designated ground bolt’s nut, slip the relay ground wire’s snap spade connector beneath it, and then re-tighten the bolt.
Image: Relay Ground Wire Connected to Ground Bolt
- Push up the foam liner on the bottom of the tail light enclosure; route the relay ground wire up through the light enclosure and out through the back of the Jeep.
Image: Routing the Relay Ground Wire
a. Follow the instructions that are provided with the LOD backup light kit.
7. Connect wires to the relay, and mount the relay.- Plug the connectors into both lights
- Connect the wiring harness ground wire (black wire) to the same bolt to which the relay ground was connected.
- Route the power lead (white wire) along the same path that the relay ground was routed (up through the foam floor of the tail light enclosure and out the rear of the Jeep).
- Coil and zip tie any excess wire so that it does not come into contact with the muffler or ground.
- Connect the wiring harness ground wire (black wire) to the same bolt to which the relay ground was connected.
- Route the power lead (white wire) along the same path that the relay ground was routed (up through the foam floor of the tail light enclosure and out the rear of the Jeep).
- Coil and zip tie any excess wire so that it does not come into contact with the muffler or ground.
a. Connect the relay ground, relay power input, relay switch wire, and backup wiring harness positive lead to the relay.
8. Clean up and verify- Refer to the wiring diagram for the proper pin-outs
b. Mount the relay by zip tying to one of the holes in the tail light enclosure.a. At this point, it is safe to connect the relay power input wire to the positive terminal on the Jeep’s battery. After the relay power input wire has been connected, verify operation of the backup lights. If the lights do not operate as planned, immediately disconnect the relay power input from the battery’s positive terminal, and verify the switch and relay wiring against the wiring diagram. If the wires are connected to the correct pins, then troubleshoot the wiring with a multi-meter.
b. Once the backup lights have been verified as operational, re-connect the right rear tail light housing to the wiring harness and then re-mount the light housing.
c. Zip tie all wires, re-install all carpet and plastic coverings, push the DPDT switch into its location in the Daystar lower dash panel, and re-install the Daystar lower dash panel.
Image: Switches
Image: Success!
b. Once the backup lights have been verified as operational, re-connect the right rear tail light housing to the wiring harness and then re-mount the light housing.
c. Zip tie all wires, re-install all carpet and plastic coverings, push the DPDT switch into its location in the Daystar lower dash panel, and re-install the Daystar lower dash panel.
Image: Switches
Image: Success!
Last edited by OnBelay; 06-19-2013 at 09:56 PM.
05-13-2010, 08:57 AM
#4
JK Freak
Thread Starter
05-13-2010, 09:06 AM
#5
JK Jedi
Join Date: Feb 2009
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05-13-2010, 10:57 AM
#7
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
05-13-2010, 11:02 AM
#8
JK Freak
Thread Starter
***Update: I consolidated it into 2 posts (got around the image limit via cut and paste), but still hit the character limitation.***
Last edited by OnBelay; 05-15-2010 at 10:11 AM.
