LOD Backup Light Installation With Three-Position Switch
05-19-2010, 04:05 AM
#11
JK Enthusiast
There's an easier way...
I did this same thing last summer but I used a 2 way switch. So I can turn the aux lights on manually regardless of key position (and the factory backup lights come on also) AND the lights come on automatically when the JK's reverse lights come on.
What I did different was run a larger power wire from my fused panel I added under the hood (pop riveted to the passengers firewall) to the rear of the jeep drivers side back corner where I installed another positive fuse panel (so I can add other accessories without running more power wires). Then I added another switch to the dash and ran a wire from that switch to the relay 86 Pin AND I tapped into the Jeep factory backup light wire on the drivers side and hooked it into pin 86 also (so that either the switch OR the factory backup light activation would turn on the aux backup lights). The 85 pin went to ground. The 30 pin was the 12V + and the 87 pin ran to the Aux lights. There really isn't a need for all of the other stuff IMHO but to each his own.
So the way I wired it the only things needed are a switch (2 way) power wire to the switch (tapped from a 12V constant under the dash) a wire from the switch to the pin 86 of a relay (mounted inside the body panel behind the drivers side tail light), a power wire from the battery (or fused panel) to the 30 pin of the relay, a short ground wire from pin 85 to the jeep body (metal for ground), a wire from pin 87 to the 12V Aux lights (wired in a series) and properly grounded (per instructions that are usually included with the lights) and lastly tap into (do not cut) the positive wire going to the factory backup light and run the tap to the 86 (2 wires connect to this pin) of the relay. That's it. Have questions please ask.
VERY detailed write up, makes me tired reading it lol. Thank you for taking the time to give us all that detail!
What I did different was run a larger power wire from my fused panel I added under the hood (pop riveted to the passengers firewall) to the rear of the jeep drivers side back corner where I installed another positive fuse panel (so I can add other accessories without running more power wires). Then I added another switch to the dash and ran a wire from that switch to the relay 86 Pin AND I tapped into the Jeep factory backup light wire on the drivers side and hooked it into pin 86 also (so that either the switch OR the factory backup light activation would turn on the aux backup lights). The 85 pin went to ground. The 30 pin was the 12V + and the 87 pin ran to the Aux lights. There really isn't a need for all of the other stuff IMHO but to each his own.
So the way I wired it the only things needed are a switch (2 way) power wire to the switch (tapped from a 12V constant under the dash) a wire from the switch to the pin 86 of a relay (mounted inside the body panel behind the drivers side tail light), a power wire from the battery (or fused panel) to the 30 pin of the relay, a short ground wire from pin 85 to the jeep body (metal for ground), a wire from pin 87 to the 12V Aux lights (wired in a series) and properly grounded (per instructions that are usually included with the lights) and lastly tap into (do not cut) the positive wire going to the factory backup light and run the tap to the 86 (2 wires connect to this pin) of the relay. That's it. Have questions please ask.
VERY detailed write up, makes me tired reading it lol. Thank you for taking the time to give us all that detail!
05-19-2010, 09:40 AM
#12
JK Freak
Thread Starter
@RTwill78:
Yes, there are definitely easier ways to do this, and it can be done as you described. As a matter of fact, your installation is better than the majority since you actually used a relay. The major difference between our setups is that I have the ability to completely shut down the reverse lights. If a cop ever gave me grief about the reverse lights, I could simply state that I turned them on accidentally. I could put the switch to the middle position and pretend that they are manually operated. Cops aside, sometimes it's just a matter of courtesy (or even stealth).
As for the fuses and diodes, yes the solution would have worked without them, but I was not willing to take the risk. "Field collapse" comes to mind. The fuses and diodes were recommended to me by an electrician and several members on this forum. Of note is the fact that the ARB wiring harness also uses diodes and fuses - same setup as mine. I know this because my ARB wiring harness was defective from the factory and I had to rip it apart to troubleshoot.
I wrote my write-up in response to several newbies that did not really even have the skills to solder; this made it longer. Else I would have just said "make a connector" instead of "strip 3/4 inch of wire, twist, solder, cover with tape", etc. LOL. I can see it being a bit cumbersome for someone of your knowledge and skill.
Good job on your install. Aren't these lights great? I'll be upgrading to 85W (the max the housing will allow) or HID sometime this year.
-Dawn
Yes, there are definitely easier ways to do this, and it can be done as you described. As a matter of fact, your installation is better than the majority since you actually used a relay. The major difference between our setups is that I have the ability to completely shut down the reverse lights. If a cop ever gave me grief about the reverse lights, I could simply state that I turned them on accidentally. I could put the switch to the middle position and pretend that they are manually operated. Cops aside, sometimes it's just a matter of courtesy (or even stealth).
As for the fuses and diodes, yes the solution would have worked without them, but I was not willing to take the risk. "Field collapse" comes to mind. The fuses and diodes were recommended to me by an electrician and several members on this forum. Of note is the fact that the ARB wiring harness also uses diodes and fuses - same setup as mine. I know this because my ARB wiring harness was defective from the factory and I had to rip it apart to troubleshoot.
I wrote my write-up in response to several newbies that did not really even have the skills to solder; this made it longer. Else I would have just said "make a connector" instead of "strip 3/4 inch of wire, twist, solder, cover with tape", etc. LOL. I can see it being a bit cumbersome for someone of your knowledge and skill.
Good job on your install. Aren't these lights great? I'll be upgrading to 85W (the max the housing will allow) or HID sometime this year.
-Dawn
05-19-2010, 09:57 AM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wylie, TX
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Great write-up, thanks. I've saved it for when I get a rear bumper with lights, and LoD is #1 on my list.
Also, forwarded this to a buddy that just installed his a week or so ago.
Also, forwarded this to a buddy that just installed his a week or so ago.
05-20-2010, 10:55 AM
#14
JK Freak
Thread Starter
@e-Jeep: perhaps there is a setting for your forum preferences re: font color and/or background color. The font is white.
If you PM me your email address, I can email you the original Word document - much nicer than what's on the forum.
If you PM me your email address, I can email you the original Word document - much nicer than what's on the forum.
10-09-2010, 07:00 PM
#15
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Amazing write up! I only wish I had joined the forum sooner. I could have read this and saved myself a huge headache! I've got the same bumper and wanted the same setup for the switch. I ended up building a test bench of sorts for trying different things out with wires, relays and switches. Either one relay or two, DPDT vs SPDT or whatever. Plus if I screwed up and set something on fire, it would be on the floor of the garage instead of in my beloved Jeep!
Again, great write up.
Again, great write up.
01-30-2011, 03:52 PM
#19
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This looks awesome, but a number of the photos aren't showing up...
Hello everyone. I recently purchased the LOD rear bumper, along with the backup light kit. I desired an installation that would let me control the lights via a dash-mount switch and have the following options:
1. Backup lights on, regardless of whether or not the key is in the ignition.
2. Backup lights completely off.
3. Backup lights on automatically when the Jeep is put into reverse.
After much research, I decided the best option would be a blue lense DPDT Carling Contura switch, a relay, and a 12AWG circuit straight to the battery. The wiring diagram, parts list, and write-up below are a summation of my installation. I hope that this helps any of you that wish to complete an installation similar to mine. Feel free to PM me with any questions--I am by no means an expert, but I might be able to lend a hand. There is a chance that I left a step or two out--I wrote this over a period of several days after the installation--so please let me know if there are any ommissions.
Lastly, I assume no liability for damage to your vehicle, property, person, or the vehicle/property of another. Proceed at your own risk, and, good luck!
-Dawn Marie (and her ever-patient installer, Chris)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shopping List:
Attachment 66771
Image: Shopping List
Please be aware that The DPDT switch is Carling part #VJDJD66B-AYC77-18B. This specific switch will illuminate the upper light in position 1. No lights will be illuminated in position 2 (off), and the lower light will be illuminated in position 3 only when the vehicle is actually placed in reverse. I plan to change out the switch once OTRATTW has one with the lower light wired separately (e.g. to turn on when the vehicle lights are turned on).
------------------------------------------------------------------
Write-up:
*** Note: this installation assumes a Jeep JK Unlimited, automatic transmission, LOD rear bumper with backup light kit, and Daystar lower dash panel. You will have to adjust accordingly if your vehicle differs from this configuration. ***
Attachment 66772
Image: Wiring Diagram
1. Cut up the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Image: LOD Wiring Harness (cut up)
2. Create the wiring for the DPDT switch.
Note: before running the wires, it is necessary to remove the center dash bezel, glove box, Daystar lower dash panel, and passenger’s dash side panel. There are several documents and threads with instructions on how to do this. It might easier to access the wiring behind the center bezel if the transmission is placed into 1st gear (with the e-brake engaged).
Note: Before proceeding, completely disconnect any terminals from their batteries. For this installation, the red/green striped wire which supplies +12V to the Power Outlet was tapped. This was done so that the backup lights could be switched on without the vehicle running. Other options are available, including connecting to the ignition-switched +12V wiring (which supplies the left-most power outlet), or running a hot or ignition-switched power lead to the fuse box. Pick whichever source is most appropriate; wiring length will need adjustment as necessary.
1. Backup lights on, regardless of whether or not the key is in the ignition.
2. Backup lights completely off.
3. Backup lights on automatically when the Jeep is put into reverse.
After much research, I decided the best option would be a blue lense DPDT Carling Contura switch, a relay, and a 12AWG circuit straight to the battery. The wiring diagram, parts list, and write-up below are a summation of my installation. I hope that this helps any of you that wish to complete an installation similar to mine. Feel free to PM me with any questions--I am by no means an expert, but I might be able to lend a hand. There is a chance that I left a step or two out--I wrote this over a period of several days after the installation--so please let me know if there are any ommissions.
Lastly, I assume no liability for damage to your vehicle, property, person, or the vehicle/property of another. Proceed at your own risk, and, good luck!
-Dawn Marie (and her ever-patient installer, Chris)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shopping List:
Attachment 66771
Image: Shopping List
Please be aware that The DPDT switch is Carling part #VJDJD66B-AYC77-18B. This specific switch will illuminate the upper light in position 1. No lights will be illuminated in position 2 (off), and the lower light will be illuminated in position 3 only when the vehicle is actually placed in reverse. I plan to change out the switch once OTRATTW has one with the lower light wired separately (e.g. to turn on when the vehicle lights are turned on).
------------------------------------------------------------------
Write-up:
*** Note: this installation assumes a Jeep JK Unlimited, automatic transmission, LOD rear bumper with backup light kit, and Daystar lower dash panel. You will have to adjust accordingly if your vehicle differs from this configuration. ***
Attachment 66772
Image: Wiring Diagram
1. Cut up the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Note: The LOD backup light wiring harness is not long enough to reach a dash-mount switch. For this installation, it is necessary to extract the white and black power/ground leads from the original harness. The two remaining connectors (black 16AWG stranded copper with female bullet connecter & snap spade connecter, and black 16AWG stranded copper with female bullet connecter & snap spade connecter) were not used for this installation, but it might be possible to re-use the black wire for the DPDT switch ground wire if so desired.
Attachment 66773Image: LOD Wiring Harness (cut up)
2. Create the wiring for the DPDT switch.
a. Reverse Power Tap.
- Cut an 8” section of red 16AWG from the spool and strip both ends.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is oriented toward the female bullet connector – this is the direction in which the current will ultimately flow (to the switch); diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. If the diode is accidentally oriented in the wrong direction, no current will flow to the switch.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
Attachment 66770
Image: Reverse Power Tap
- Cut a 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper wire (this wire will ultimately be cut to length, but it is advisable to start with a longer section in the event that wiring /crimping/soldering issues are encountered).
- Solder the other end of the 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder to the 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
b. Dash power tap.- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is oriented toward the female bullet connector – this is the direction in which the current will ultimately flow (to the switch); diodes only allow electricity to flow in one direction. If the diode is accidentally oriented in the wrong direction, no current will flow to the switch.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
Attachment 66770
Image: Reverse Power Tap
- Cut a 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper wire (this wire will ultimately be cut to length, but it is advisable to start with a longer section in the event that wiring /crimping/soldering issues are encountered).
- Solder the other end of the 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder to the 10’ section of red 16AWG stranded copper.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Cut an 8” section from the spool of red 16AWG stranded copper and strip both ends.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is pointing in the direction of the female bullet connector
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To one end, crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder. Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end, solder a 1Amp diode. Ensure that the stripe on the diode is pointing in the direction of the female bullet connector
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- To the other end of the diode, solder a 5Amp 5x20mm inline fuse holder. Insert the fuse into the holder and twist it shut.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
c. DPDT switch to ground.
Note: There are several options to connect the DPDT switch to ground. For this installation, the grounding bolts in the passenger side foot well were chosen, but several of the metal pieces behind the dash can provide ground as well (this can be verified with a multi-meter and a positive lead from the battery). If a ground point that is closer to the switch than the passenger-side grounding bolts is desired, it *might* be possible to recycle the black wire that was cut out of the LOD backup light wiring harness.
Note: There are several options to connect the DPDT switch to ground. For this installation, the grounding bolts in the passenger side foot well were chosen, but several of the metal pieces behind the dash can provide ground as well (this can be verified with a multi-meter and a positive lead from the battery). If a ground point that is closer to the switch than the passenger-side grounding bolts is desired, it *might* be possible to recycle the black wire that was cut out of the LOD backup light wiring harness.
- Strip one end of the black 16AW stranded copper spool. This wire will eventually be cut to length; just leave it as a spool for now.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
d. Connection from the DPDT switch to the relay.
3. Run the wiring to the DPDT switch.- Strip one end the red 16AW stranded copper spool. This wire will eventually be cut to length; just leave it as a spool for now.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Crimp a 16AWG female bullet connector to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Note: before running the wires, it is necessary to remove the center dash bezel, glove box, Daystar lower dash panel, and passenger’s dash side panel. There are several documents and threads with instructions on how to do this. It might easier to access the wiring behind the center bezel if the transmission is placed into 1st gear (with the e-brake engaged).
a. Wrap the dash frame’s sharp metal edges with electrical tape.
Note: do not connect the “dash power” wire to the back of the DPDT switch at this time. This wire will be soldered to the dash wiring before connecting it to the DPDT switch.
4. Connect the switch ground and dash power tap to vehicle ground and power.- The DPDT switch wires will be routed through the dash frame, just above the glove box (see the picture further down for a visual). It is highly recommended to wrap electrical tape around the sharp edges of the metal frame so that the wires don’t suffer any damage. Looming can be used as an alternate, but there is not much room.
b. Route the wires to the DPDT switch.- Route the reverse power tap, switch ground, and relay switch wires up the right side of the dash, through the frame above the glove box, and then into the center console area.
- Zip tie the wires as appropriate.
Image: Routing The Wires
Image: Routing the Wires Through the Glove Box
Image: Routing the Wires Into the Dash
c. Connect the switch wires to the DPDT switch.- Zip tie the wires as appropriate.
Image: Routing The Wires
Image: Routing the Wires Through the Glove Box
Image: Routing the Wires Into the Dash
Note: do not connect the “dash power” wire to the back of the DPDT switch at this time. This wire will be soldered to the dash wiring before connecting it to the DPDT switch.
- Cut a hole for the DPDT switch in the Daystar lower dash panel.
- Route the switch wires through the hole that was just created.
- Connect the switch ground wire to port #7 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the reverse power tap wire to port #4 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the relay switch wire to port #5 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Route the switch wires through the hole that was just created.
- Connect the switch ground wire to port #7 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the reverse power tap wire to port #4 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
- Connect the relay switch wire to port #5 on the rear of the DPDT switch.
Note: Before proceeding, completely disconnect any terminals from their batteries. For this installation, the red/green striped wire which supplies +12V to the Power Outlet was tapped. This was done so that the backup lights could be switched on without the vehicle running. Other options are available, including connecting to the ignition-switched +12V wiring (which supplies the left-most power outlet), or running a hot or ignition-switched power lead to the fuse box. Pick whichever source is most appropriate; wiring length will need adjustment as necessary.
a. Locate the red/green stripe wire that supplies +12V to the Power Outlet.
Image: Red Wire With Green Stripe
b. Connect the dash power tap to the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire.
Note: If recycling the ground wire from the original LOD wiring harness is desired, find an acceptable ground that is within reach of the wire.
Image: Red Wire With Green Stripe
b. Connect the dash power tap to the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire.
- Strip back about ¾” of the red/green stripe wire’s insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the dash power tap wire around the stripped section of the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Connect the dash power tap wire to port #6 on the rear of the DPDT switch. At this point, all four wires should be connected to the back of the DPDT switch as shown in the picture below.
Image: DPDT Switch With Wires Attached
c. Connect the reverse power tap wire to the white/gray stripe reverse power wire.- Wrap the stripped end of the dash power tap wire around the stripped section of the +12V dash power red/green stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Connect the dash power tap wire to port #6 on the rear of the DPDT switch. At this point, all four wires should be connected to the back of the DPDT switch as shown in the picture below.
Image: DPDT Switch With Wires Attached
- Remove the plastic paneling that is located between the passenger’s seat and the door, and that extends all the way through the passenger’s side right foot well.
- Locate the wiring bundle.
- Locate the white wire with the thin gray stripe within the wiring bundle.
- Pick an easily accessible section of the white/gray stripe wire, and strip back about ¾” of the wire’s insulation.
Image: White Wire With Gray Stripe
- Route the reverse power tap wire to the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the reverse power tap wire around the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
d. Connect the switch ground wire to vehicle ground.- Locate the wiring bundle.
- Locate the white wire with the thin gray stripe within the wiring bundle.
- Pick an easily accessible section of the white/gray stripe wire, and strip back about ¾” of the wire’s insulation.
Image: White Wire With Gray Stripe
- Route the reverse power tap wire to the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Wrap the stripped end of the reverse power tap wire around the stripped section of the white/gray stripe wire. Use a minimum of 2 turns; 3 turns is preferable.
- Solder the two wires together and allow the joint to cool.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
Note: If recycling the ground wire from the original LOD wiring harness is desired, find an acceptable ground that is within reach of the wire.
- Locate the two grounding bolts in the right side of the passenger’s foot well.
Image: Ground Bolts
Image: Ground Bolts
- Route the switch ground wire to this location, cut to the desired length, and strip off about ¾” of the insulation.
- Crimp a 16AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Remove the nut from one of the ground bolts, slide the ring terminal over the bolt, and re-install the nut.
Image: Switch Ground Connected to Ground Bolt
- Crimp a 16AWG 3/8” ring terminal to the stripped end of the wire. If desired, reinforce the crimp with solder.
- Wrap the joint with electrical tape or shrink tube.
- Remove the nut from one of the ground bolts, slide the ring terminal over the bolt, and re-install the nut.
Image: Switch Ground Connected to Ground Bolt
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