Oil Pan Removal / Installation
#1
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
Oil Pan Removal / Installation
Part 1 - Drain Your Oil
Part 2 - Oil Pan Removal
6. Once the oil has completely drained from your Jeep JK, begin the oil pan removal by first removing the transmission dust cover. Using a 15mm socket, remove all 7 bolts from the dust cover.
7. Once the bolts are removed, carefully lower the structural dust cover and set aside.
8. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 front nuts from the upper oil pan.
9. Continue by removing all the 16 remaining bolts. You can see the bolt locations in this overhead shot of the oil pan.
8. Using a gasket scraper, clean the entire bottom of your crankshaft housing. There are 4 locations of RTV sealant that help keep the oil pan gasket in place.
9. Be sure to clean all loose dirt, debris, and RTV sealant from the entire area.
Part 3 - Oil Pan Installation
9. Begin the installation of your new oil pan by placing a 1/8 bead of RTV sealant in the 4 places indicated in the photo. These beads help keep the oil pan gasket in place.
10. Place the oil pan gasket on top of the oil pan and raise the oil pan into place.
11. Secure the oil pan with the bolts you removed earlier by hand tightening them. Also place the 2 front nuts back on the front also tightening by hand. Once hand tightened, using an in lb torque wrench, tighten all bolts and nuts to 105 in lbs.
CAUTION: The structural dust cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the cover or the oil pan.
12. Position the structural dust cover in its place.
13. Install the bolts retaining the cover-to-oil pan. Do NOT tighten!
14. Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten!
15. Holding the structural dust cover in place tightly against the engine and transmission bell housing, tighten the two cover-to-transmission bolts to less than 25 in lbs. The cover must be flush to the transmission bellhousing machined surface.
16. Starting with the cover-to-oil pan bolts, tighten bolts to 40 ft lbs.
16. Now finish with re-tightening the cover-to-transmission bolts to 40 ft lbs.
Part 4- Finishing Up
17. Replace the oil level indicator and fill with 6 qts of oil.
18. Lower your vehicle and start to ensure that there are no oil leaks.
Enjoy your new dent-free oil pan! Maybe next it's time to install an oil pan skid!?
Part 2 - Oil Pan Removal
6. Once the oil has completely drained from your Jeep JK, begin the oil pan removal by first removing the transmission dust cover. Using a 15mm socket, remove all 7 bolts from the dust cover.
7. Once the bolts are removed, carefully lower the structural dust cover and set aside.
8. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 front nuts from the upper oil pan.
9. Continue by removing all the 16 remaining bolts. You can see the bolt locations in this overhead shot of the oil pan.
8. Using a gasket scraper, clean the entire bottom of your crankshaft housing. There are 4 locations of RTV sealant that help keep the oil pan gasket in place.
9. Be sure to clean all loose dirt, debris, and RTV sealant from the entire area.
Part 3 - Oil Pan Installation
9. Begin the installation of your new oil pan by placing a 1/8 bead of RTV sealant in the 4 places indicated in the photo. These beads help keep the oil pan gasket in place.
10. Place the oil pan gasket on top of the oil pan and raise the oil pan into place.
11. Secure the oil pan with the bolts you removed earlier by hand tightening them. Also place the 2 front nuts back on the front also tightening by hand. Once hand tightened, using an in lb torque wrench, tighten all bolts and nuts to 105 in lbs.
CAUTION: The structural dust cover must be installed as described in the following steps. Failure to do so will cause severe damage to the cover or the oil pan.
12. Position the structural dust cover in its place.
13. Install the bolts retaining the cover-to-oil pan. Do NOT tighten!
14. Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten!
15. Holding the structural dust cover in place tightly against the engine and transmission bell housing, tighten the two cover-to-transmission bolts to less than 25 in lbs. The cover must be flush to the transmission bellhousing machined surface.
16. Starting with the cover-to-oil pan bolts, tighten bolts to 40 ft lbs.
16. Now finish with re-tightening the cover-to-transmission bolts to 40 ft lbs.
Part 4- Finishing Up
17. Replace the oil level indicator and fill with 6 qts of oil.
18. Lower your vehicle and start to ensure that there are no oil leaks.
Enjoy your new dent-free oil pan! Maybe next it's time to install an oil pan skid!?
#3
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
#4
JK Jedi Master
#6
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
Thanks ronjenx, I tried to make them as clear as possible.
No problem Mark. Honestly I thought about that too, but this was super easy and half the cost. After inspection my oil pan wasn't nearly as bad as I thought and honestly I could have ran it longer. Despite them being somewhat skimpy, they hold up pretty good.
No problem Mark. Honestly I thought about that too, but this was super easy and half the cost. After inspection my oil pan wasn't nearly as bad as I thought and honestly I could have ran it longer. Despite them being somewhat skimpy, they hold up pretty good.
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Laval, Quebec
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when changing your oil pan do you have to change the upper and lower part like in the pictures ... or can you just change the lower (black) part?
Mine is dented and leaking...i ordered one and going to change my oil pan soon.
Do i buy the gasket or use RTV?
any other suggestions?
Mine is dented and leaking...i ordered one and going to change my oil pan soon.
Do i buy the gasket or use RTV?
any other suggestions?
#9
great write up! I just replaced mine and added the evo skid to it to avoid the same problem I had this time...a leak from denting the pan. I noticed that when I took off my dust cover it wasnt lined up to the machined surface of the bellhousing. Not sure why...I installed it back the same way I took it off and had a leak, does it have to be even to the machined surface of the bellhousing?
#10
Thanks for the write up ! The only thing lacking was to remember to replace the oil filter as well!
I replaced both the upper and lower gaskets, the lower is only RTV but was way easier to pry off by removing the upper section first.
The Write Up was spot on and no leaks yet!
I replaced both the upper and lower gaskets, the lower is only RTV but was way easier to pry off by removing the upper section first.
The Write Up was spot on and no leaks yet!
Last edited by Timecloud; 02-24-2014 at 05:33 AM.