Wrangeler X

You want to be in the blue! Go 4:56. No brained!!!

Northridge 4x4

landis76

Same diff. If you could buy 4.32 or 4.02 gear or anything in between, then I could see your argument.

Happy TXSGVG!

casamtb

I've seen them referred to 4.10 & 4.11. Yukon gear refers to them as 4.11. Maybe it's a rounding error or a Spinal Tap thing... These gears go to 11!! To the original question I say go for it. If you have a good amount of mechanical prowess and the tools you need then why not? Particularly in this age of forums and YouTube. There is so much info out there. And any of the tools you don't have and need ( case spreader, bearing puller, backlash gauge ) can be rented for free from any local auto part retailer. I am in a similar situation as you. I have a 13 jku with 3.21 and currently running 33s ( 275/70/18 ) and it is on the border of okay. I don't like the power @70 in hills. My jeep is fairly built already and 35s has always been the final destination. Gears will be the last thing I do before putting 35s on it next year. I waffled with wether or not I should do it myself. At first I was like no way. But the more forum posts I read and the more diff rebuilds on the YouTube I watched, the more I became convinced it is totally doable. I will be doing my own. I do have the luxury of a third car (kids) so it taking more than a weekend for the random broken or missing part is not a concern. I accept the fact that something will go wrong, there is a problem to solve with every major install. Problem solving and skill building is part of the fun and one of the reasons I bought a jeep. Also like you I waffled between 4.11 (ha) and 4.56. I agree that the 4.56 will be un-awesome with 33s and 4.10 would be fine. However, for 35s I have decided to go with 4.56 and here a couple reason why. One, I'm never doing 85 on the highway. 70-75 is fine and 4.56 will put me the high side of the power band for highway and be a better option for a weighed down rig for camping and wheeling trips. Two, having the 2.7/1 transfer case of a non-rubi the 4.56 will give a better crawl ratio off road and three) after asking myself the same question and reading these forums for years, I have never read of someone who went to 4.56 and wished they did 4.10 though I have read a ton of posts where they did the 4.10s and then wanted to go up. As far as price, I have seen northridge4x4 have 4.56 Yukon gears, master rebuild and new front carrier for @$575. ( Note: u didn't say what set up you have now but if you are a front D30 you will need a new carrier ) Another reason to stay away from 4.10 is the gears will be $300 more. Don't know why, but they are. As most people on here will say I am in no way telling you what to do, just sharing my experience. I would recommend you keep reading posts and watch diff rebuild videos at night in bed like I do. In 90 days, you'll know what to do. Peace and happy thanksgiving.

casamtb

Thanks for the link. I don't think I've read this one yet.

landis76

I don't think it is that simple. Stock tires and 3.21 gears has my RPMs right at about 2K @ 70mph and if you follow this chart, it was in the yellow right out of the factory. However, if I want to be in the blue with stock setup, you are approaching 3K. If you want an idea what that is like, just start accelerating in 1st gear up to 2.5K RPMs and I am guessing that is similar to what it'd be like with 32" tires and 4.1-4.56 gearing @ 70mph. I'd think it'd be uncomfortably high. Hopefully, someone smarter than I can fact check me on this.

I don't mind a little higher than stock RPMs to account for heavier tires and my propensity to tow but I also don't want to tax the 3.6.

ronjenx

Maybe Yukon gears don't have 10 teeth on the pinion and 41 teeth on the ring, as the OEM gears do?

casamtb

37/9 = 4.11111111. Maybe?

resharp001

Was just re-reading this thread. Must not have been paying full attention the first time through it as I just caught the joke....LOL. Nice one. Great movie!