Tailgate shock project Done!!
#1
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Tailgate shock project Done!!
OK Guys
As you know I complained that I didn't like the tailgate slamming into my leg unexpected and I don't like the manual lock out option.
So with that in mind, I took left over parts I had in my garage and went to work.
Once again Im not responsible for you copying what I did. Do so at your own risk!!
Tools and parts:
T20 torx
Socket set
Nuts/bolts/washers
Hood shock or trunk shock = 19.5” long- 12” compressed- 7.5” extension
Shock brackets
Plates
Shear Cutter
SKILL
Ok the shock was from my 1990 BMW Convertible Trunk shock. I bought the brackets from Mcmaster- www.mcmaster.com part # 9416K26 and # 9416K29
I took steel plates and welded the brackets on them
Next I painted them with hammer paint
Then I removed the speaker with the T20 Torx
Then I had to cut the grill section to mount one of the brackets. This cut my hand a bit when wrenching on the back nut. I used large fender washers in the back.
Then did trial and error- Error #1
This was mounted here to because the tailgate had an indentation for the bracket, but it was to close and couldn’t close the tailgate completely. The shock couldn’t compress anymore.
Next I moved it all the way to the end of the speaker and it WORKED!!
BUT I didn’t like how it moved the speaker back and forth and I knew one day it would break
So I made a new bracket.
I had to remove the rear tail light and reach around to fasten the nuts- again used large fender washers.
This worked 100 times better!! I had a leftover right angle bracket from a sears table saw guide and cut it and painted it.
Then I used a Velcro-the soft side- to wrap around the edge of the grill hole and used leftover front grill material to fill the gap.
Now I have to make extension brackets to make the sub fit again because it had to be moved back an inch to 1.5". But thats a piece of cake
As you know I complained that I didn't like the tailgate slamming into my leg unexpected and I don't like the manual lock out option.
So with that in mind, I took left over parts I had in my garage and went to work.
Once again Im not responsible for you copying what I did. Do so at your own risk!!
Tools and parts:
T20 torx
Socket set
Nuts/bolts/washers
Hood shock or trunk shock = 19.5” long- 12” compressed- 7.5” extension
Shock brackets
Plates
Shear Cutter
SKILL
Ok the shock was from my 1990 BMW Convertible Trunk shock. I bought the brackets from Mcmaster- www.mcmaster.com part # 9416K26 and # 9416K29
I took steel plates and welded the brackets on them
Next I painted them with hammer paint
Then I removed the speaker with the T20 Torx
Then I had to cut the grill section to mount one of the brackets. This cut my hand a bit when wrenching on the back nut. I used large fender washers in the back.
Then did trial and error- Error #1
This was mounted here to because the tailgate had an indentation for the bracket, but it was to close and couldn’t close the tailgate completely. The shock couldn’t compress anymore.
Next I moved it all the way to the end of the speaker and it WORKED!!
BUT I didn’t like how it moved the speaker back and forth and I knew one day it would break
So I made a new bracket.
I had to remove the rear tail light and reach around to fasten the nuts- again used large fender washers.
This worked 100 times better!! I had a leftover right angle bracket from a sears table saw guide and cut it and painted it.
Then I used a Velcro-the soft side- to wrap around the edge of the grill hole and used leftover front grill material to fill the gap.
Now I have to make extension brackets to make the sub fit again because it had to be moved back an inch to 1.5". But thats a piece of cake
Last edited by DBB888; 12-16-2010 at 03:13 AM.
#3
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I agree that the shock is to strong. It was meant to open a trunk that weighs about 35-40 lbs. The swing action is probrably about 10-15lbs of force that would keep the door open.
Trial and error again.
Trial and error again.
#4
Yeah, but thats easily fixed. Still...sweet mod. Nice handy work on the brackets. Welding looks fun....WEEEE!!!
#5
This is a really great mod. I had a tripod sticking out of the back of the Jeep and when the gate closed on it, it dented the bottom inside of the gate
I've been using bungee cords to keep it open but this looks like a nice option... if I ever get around to it.
I've been using bungee cords to keep it open but this looks like a nice option... if I ever get around to it.
#6
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On the quadratec site theres a lock out I saw on the 06 cars. Its an aluminum bracket piece that mounts on the hinge and has a slider on the gate with a knob that holds it open.
I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm
Mike
I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm
Mike
#7
On the quadratec site theres a lock out I saw on the 06 cars. Its an aluminum bracket piece that mounts on the hinge and has a slider on the gate with a knob that holds it open.
I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm
Mike
I didn't want to have an extra step and Im not sure if they make it for the JK
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13008_09.htm
Mike
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#10
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I tried to use them- the sheet metal on the tailgate was so thin that they couldn't bite. They just spun when I tried it.
Plus with the force of the shock I felt safer using lock nuts and large fender washers from behind so I knew nothing would rip off
Plus with the force of the shock I felt safer using lock nuts and large fender washers from behind so I knew nothing would rip off