Canondale

Caliper bolts are 18mm. just did it 20 mins ago. LOL One more thing you should add is that you should NOT try to re-use the lug nut you pulled the new stud through with.

Vryce

One thing that should have been mentioned but wasn't.

NEVER EVER hang the brake caliper by the brake line. Use a piece of wire to tie it up out of the way. Hanging it by the brake line can cause the line to fail.

Other than that, great write up.

drunkenmugsy

x2 - Use and old wire coat hanger or a zip tie or something but you dont want to let it dangle like that. Good write up though.

Any thoughts on how to replace a lug out of a spidertrax spacer? My fine and dandy tire shop cross threaded one on my spacer. It was just spinning in the spacer so I couldnt get the lug nut off. I had to drill it out. Not such a big deal now as I just got some 35s and new wheels with less backspacing. But I scuffed my rubi takeoffs on the inside of the rim and my new tie rod too. dammmmiiiiit. If I want to use those again I will have to put the spacers back on.

enanoruiz

Just what I needed. Thanks

pazitive44

Rotated my tires.....broke a Stud....Great Write up...Thanks for Sharing...

sclan

I've had 6 of mine broken: different shops, different times. 2 of them at the dealer. Anyway, I claimed to the service manager that there is something wrong with the strength/durability of the studs..they are too week. He didn't buy it, said I would still have to pay for the replacement PLUS labor. Said that it was the previous person that put the wheels back on that overtorqued. He also added "besides, I could claim your oversized /aftermarket tires put additional stress on the lugs.

Point is thanks for the writeup so now I can replace myself if I ever break them after working under the jeep for some reason. Will probably still pay for rotation as I like to have them balanced each time. And since I had the tires rotated and lug done at the dealership, I'll take back to them, in the event a lug breaks and they claim overtorque, I have record that it was their techs that did it last

JKChandler

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread.

Stealership wanted $50 for parts and labor. I did it for a about $15 and half hour of time.

Was interesting to find that the stud was not available at any local auto parts store for a 2010 (every one (napa, advance, pep boys, etc. said you could special order or go to dealer only). Bought the stud for $13 from the dealer and $2 for some washers at Lowes.

Interestingly enough, the only people that have ever touched my tires/studs has been the dealership since I have lifetime tire rotations/oil changes with them and I am still stock. So they couldn't use that bullshit excuse listed in the post above on me. Pisses me off to think one of shop guys got super happy with a torque wrench and Fd it up in the first place.

Oh well, just love this forum...

Skoorbbs

Awesome write-up. Many thanks. Saved a lot of time and hassle.

chuck_tempe

Noob here. Thanks for the great information. I just replaced all five studs on my JKU. I don't know if the dealer left the lug nuts loose and got damaged by driving with loose lugs or if someone tried to jack my rims. The studs are $2 each at O'Reilly. The hardest part was that I had to stand on the lug wrench to crank the studs in place. I put so much pressure on the factory lug wrench that the paint was chipping off near the bent part by the "socket".

r3cluse

A good breaker bar makes short work of the stud install. I used a 1/2 bar to destroy the old stud after my impact gun couldn't get the nut off and a 3/8 bar to install the new stud.

x2 on not re-using the nut.

Be careful at O'Riely's some of them are easily confused, the part number is 610-448. I got 610-449 the first time and it just spun in the hub. Both say "Jeep OEM" on the box.