Write- Up Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles
#241
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
Ok so I haven't experienced a full on death wobble yet but I've got a problem and looking for some advice.. 25k miles on my jku 3.5 coil lift factory shocks and steering stabilizer 35" tires and everything else stock except springs and longer sway bar linkages... At low speeds hitting big bumps causes a few seconds of a slight/moderate wobble in the steering I don't think with this low of mileage anything should be worn enough to cause the wobble but the steering stabalizer.. Any advice? I don't want to prematurely replace the stabilizer and mask a more serious issue..
You need brakelines long enough for a 3.5" lift, and adjustable front trackbar, front lower adjustable control arms or front control arm drop brackets, and a rear adjustable trackbar or rear relocation bracket.
Also, it would be wise to loosen all your trackbar and control arm bolts, vigorously rock the vehicle to unbind any twisted bushings, and torque the bolts back to spec, all with the jeep on the ground.
#242
I'm probably more of an exception on here because I'm hoping to keep this car relatively stock. I used to have a lifted 1988 K5 in the past, lots of fun, but now have moved on. I just want/need something that I can use to get A-to-B no matter the weather, tow a motorcycle, and take 4 people skiing or to the beach. Eventually, my plan was always to keep this car as a backup family truck even if the doors rust and fall off.
So... this rig will stay mostly stock underneath. After all, there's not a lot of trails in NYC.
ANYWAY, wobble with stock suspension geometry is not acceptable. I got my JKU back from the dealer and I asked that they fully inspect the front suspension and document what was done. They only really wrote that they retorqued the steering linkage (track bar, etc.). No mention of what was out of spec, AND no mention of whether wear items were even inspected (as per the TSB). It's not just for folks like us who can understand suspension and know to seek answers in a group like this. Chrysler is seriously dropping the ball for the thousands of people who own a wrangler but dont know mechanicals for themselves.
So... this rig will stay mostly stock underneath. After all, there's not a lot of trails in NYC.
ANYWAY, wobble with stock suspension geometry is not acceptable. I got my JKU back from the dealer and I asked that they fully inspect the front suspension and document what was done. They only really wrote that they retorqued the steering linkage (track bar, etc.). No mention of what was out of spec, AND no mention of whether wear items were even inspected (as per the TSB). It's not just for folks like us who can understand suspension and know to seek answers in a group like this. Chrysler is seriously dropping the ball for the thousands of people who own a wrangler but dont know mechanicals for themselves.
I did talk to a 4x4 shop in NJ (Tony's 4wheelDrive in Wallington, NJ). They seemed to know right away about this, but also mentioned that the steering box would be damaged. Their recommendation was to replace the steering box along with front end diagnosis. Reading a bit more around here, seems like they may be onto something, but I wanted to scope this out before plunking down $600 on a part swap.
#243
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
Here's an update for everyone, even if a short one. I have not experienced DW since having my dealer re-torque the front end. However, I can detect a slight buzz in the steering while at highway speed and a little bit of bump-steer. Is it fixed? Maybe, but most likely only for now. I did talk to a 4x4 shop in NJ (Tony's 4wheelDrive in Wallington, NJ). They seemed to know right away about this, but also mentioned that the steering box would be damaged. Their recommendation was to replace the steering box along with front end diagnosis. Reading a bit more around here, seems like they may be onto something, but I wanted to scope this out before plunking down $600 on a part swap.
Why not just do an inspection yourself and find out what's wrong?
#244
JK Super Freak
I solved my DW, it was awful... would start shaking between 60-80kph within a second or two and wouldn't stop violently shaking until I would completely stop. I stuck my head out the window at one point thinking it can't be as bad as the video but NOPE! It was shaking just as much.
After going through your checklist numerous times and replacing a drag link and ball joint (ends were shot)... it ended up being the beads in my Duratracs! Rebalanced with weights and its all gone and rides smooth.
Still though, thank you for the well put together videos. Learned a lot on even just how to check ball joints and all the components to see if they are worn. Valuable information to know!
After going through your checklist numerous times and replacing a drag link and ball joint (ends were shot)... it ended up being the beads in my Duratracs! Rebalanced with weights and its all gone and rides smooth.
Still though, thank you for the well put together videos. Learned a lot on even just how to check ball joints and all the components to see if they are worn. Valuable information to know!
#245
JK Freak
I solved my DW, it was awful... would start shaking between 60-80kph within a second or two and wouldn't stop violently shaking until I would completely stop. I stuck my head out the window at one point thinking it can't be as bad as the video but NOPE! It was shaking just as much. After going through your checklist numerous times and replacing a drag link and ball joint (ends were shot)... it ended up being the beads in my Duratracs! Rebalanced with weights and its all gone and rides smooth. Still though, thank you for the well put together videos. Learned a lot on even just how to check ball joints and all the components to see if they are worn. Valuable information to know!
I recently upgraded to 37" MTRs and I went with beads for balancing. I'm not sure if that is the cause of my vibration yet as I haven't worked though the checklist from this thread. I have a very noticeable vibration that turns into a violent shaking as you go from 60 to 80 mph. Gets worse as you increase speed. As soon as you decelerate below 60 it goes away.
So I have some things I need to check. Also I regeared and wonder if it is a driveshaft imbalance.
Anyway... Let the fun begin I guess.
#246
JK Super Freak
Out of curiosity what size were your tires and how many ounces of beads were you running in each?
I recently upgraded to 37" MTRs and I went with beads for balancing. I'm not sure if that is the cause of my vibration yet as I haven't worked though the checklist from this thread. I have a very noticeable vibration that turns into a violent shaking as you go from 60 to 80 mph. Gets worse as you increase speed. As soon as you decelerate below 60 it goes away.
So I have some things I need to check. Also I regeared and wonder if it is a driveshaft imbalance.
Anyway... Let the fun begin I guess.
I recently upgraded to 37" MTRs and I went with beads for balancing. I'm not sure if that is the cause of my vibration yet as I haven't worked though the checklist from this thread. I have a very noticeable vibration that turns into a violent shaking as you go from 60 to 80 mph. Gets worse as you increase speed. As soon as you decelerate below 60 it goes away.
So I have some things I need to check. Also I regeared and wonder if it is a driveshaft imbalance.
Anyway... Let the fun begin I guess.
I didn't think it would of been the tires as I figured it would not be so fixed into the 60-80 speed and would get worse as I went 80-100+. I also tried varying pressure from 30 psi to 45psi to see if it made any change and it didn't really do anything.
The one thing to note, if you have the TPMS sensors on your wheels, the ones I have on my '12 are not the pass through design, meaning you can't add more beads through the valve stem. You have to break the bead each time to add more beads. Quite the pain in the rear.
#248
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
Still, some companies have adjustable front trackbars that use lower quality joints and bushings.
Regarding tire rods, there aren't that many companies out there that make upgraded replacements.
What brands were you considering?