planman

Yes. The wobbles from the combination of worn ball joints, and drag link and tie rod ends could be nearly as violent as from loose or worn trackbar bolts/bushings/bracket holes.

thomaspe

Bought a 2007 JK for my son with 54k on it and went through it extensively prior to purchase. After about 3k, began telling me of the DW / shimmys he experienced. Went through Planman videos and troubleshot most of the issues.

1) Replaced track bar bolts with the Gr. 8 9/16" dia hardware
2) Did the same for the Teraflex lower control arms (4 bolts)
3) I had a bent & rewelded LCA mount on passenger side in which the Teraflex knuckle body was actually grinding into at ride height. Appears that they installed knuckle 180 out of phase. Adjusted knuckle & bracket then re-installed.
4) Loosened & re-torqued LCAs as well as checked torque other.
5) Could not fix the dreaded gear box clunk. I do not think it is the drag rod tierod ends as these show no play as per Planman. The gearbox is leaking from the bottom at the Pitman arm.

No issues as of yet, but concerned about steering gearbox leakage.

I was being proactive & have ordered Dynatrac LowProfile ball joints & Timken wheel hubs to do soon. May even order new Teraflex drag tie rod ends to have on hand.

I do not want to replace the box yet -- have not found any viable replacements.

Has anyone tried this Rock Solid Performance V5.1 sector shaft brace?? Tried to go to website, but says down for Xmas??

Thanks,

Thomas

planman

I would double check to see if the RSP brace will work with your trackbar.

Synergy makes a brace also.

Many people upgrading to PSC hydro assist steering don't send their stock steering box into PSC as a core or to rebuild. You might find a good deal on a used stock take off box from someone who has upgraded.

West Texas Offroad's Redneck Ram steering systems can include a rebuild of your stock steering box.

TXBeachJK

Thank you!

jam session

Another big thank you to planman for this checklist and frequent help in this thread. I had my first DW at freeway speed on a corner exiting/ entering a ramp. OMG thought I was going into the guard rail! Inspection revealed bad drag link at passenger side and bad LCA bushings at axle. Also upgraded to Synergy track bar and sector brace. Wow this had obviously been degrading for a while. Steering is immensely improved and all wobbles are gone. Thanks again.

zstairlessone

Welcome to the Forum and hats off for being a great dad!

Derek1976

I have to give a big to planman for this.
For a month or so I have noticed some minor shimmys on the highway nothing really bad. Enough to make me think it was time to give it a good go over. Then yesterday full out D.W. had to come to a complete stop on the side of the hwy. It seemd to get more violent as I slowed. Got out gave it all a look over no noticeable damage. Got in and carefully got going again. Got home and watched the videos.

Found both ends of the drag link and both ends of the tie rod have some play. Using the channel locks to check revealed more play on the driver's side tie rod that I didn't see with the steering wheel test. How much play is ok? I have 2-3 mm on most but drivers side tie rod get 3-4 mm.
I took it he track bar out, the holes in the brackets look ok. But the metal sleave on the frame side bushing did not let the bolt slide through. It was picking up on the threads. I had to turn the bolt to put it in the bushing, one end of the sleave looked a bit deformed and that is where the threads were picking up. I filed it to let the bolt slide through smothly. It is just the end of the sleave the rest of the I.d looks good. Put all the bolts back in hand tight put the frame side track bar bolt in from the other side so the nut faces the front bounced the jeep around good and torqued it all down to spec.
Everything feels about the same. I have ordered both ends for the track bar and drag link, lifetime warranty from napa. The have a track bar bushing he said they only list one do these just press in? I have also ordered a set of synergy H.D ball joints and the jk grade 8 bolt kit from northridge. I haven't checked the ball joints yet but figure might as well have them here and ready.
The jeep is a 2011 91,000 km
So once again thanks so much for taking the time to do this write up great job!

planman

Here is a video that shows how much is too much play in an end, and how hard to squeeze with channel locks to test the ends:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTw-4ddx72Q&feature=youtu.be

MeaNGreeNSaharA

First off I have to thank those on the thread that have helped me with my previous death wobble issues. I would have driven it off of a cliff and given up if it wasn't for your aid and expertise!

I also have to admit many of my issues probably stem from the way I drive. I live on the world's shittiest paved road and refuse to drive slow down it, and have a tendency to hit speed bumps way too fast and not avoid potholes - which I am learning the hard way takes a toll. The jeep is designed to do all of this, but on unpaved roads that give. Urban off-roading as I like to refer to it (OKC has ridiculously terrible streets), on rigid pavement seems to take a much heavier toll than the natural roads jeeps are meant to roam.

That being said:

After fixing this last round of death wobble I thought I would share a few things I have learned in the process that might help some of you and save some time...

First off movement in the track bar, track bar bolt, and or off torque are not a cause of death wobble, it is just another symptom - don't think this will fix your problem, it needs to be addressed, but is not the end of the road.

If even one drag link end, tie rod end, or ball joint are bad you will get death wobble. After my experience I really just think about 60-80,000 miles you should just replace the whole suspension and save yourself some aggravation, time, and even money (hard to believe I know). As many have suggested one worn part causing death wobble left un-treated will destroy other parts. I also agree with many that at the first sign of death wobble don't drive it until you fix it, you may be able to get by with just replacing one thing, if you keep driving it you will replace many things, possibly many times (thank god for part warranties!) Death wobble only gets worse, it will not improve without replacing the problem, driving it more will make it worse.

Death wobble will kill your steering stabilizer which exacerbates death wobble - replacing just it won't cure the problem, but replace it with the other parts (almost all have a lifetime warranty)


I got a bad aftermarket part that failed early this time, so hopefully after catching it early and replacing it death wobble will be gone for good this time (50,000 miles would be good enough).

May you all stay death wobble free!!!

WyattO1759

It IS Chrysler though...