Write- Up Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles
#281
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: 2nd star to the right, and straight on 'til morning
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Thanks Planman, and all who have contributed.
Just experienced my first deathwobble today.
45mph driving straight over a pretty substantial bump/dip across our road.
Not exactly a fun experience.
My neighbor was walking on the side of the road right where it went into the uncontrolled oscillation.
Wonder what he thought?
Sheesh, it was pretty violent.
47,600 miles
The front has had a minor shimmy at around 50mph that I have ignored for awhile assuming it was the well worn 37" tires with 47,600 miles on them. (put them on the then new '12 rig)
I installed the Northridge bolt kit about 20,000 miles ago.
I'll follow the instructions and report back.
I have a AEV 4.5 DS lift.
Any other issues I should check specific to that system?
Just experienced my first deathwobble today.
45mph driving straight over a pretty substantial bump/dip across our road.
Not exactly a fun experience.
My neighbor was walking on the side of the road right where it went into the uncontrolled oscillation.
Wonder what he thought?
Sheesh, it was pretty violent.
47,600 miles
The front has had a minor shimmy at around 50mph that I have ignored for awhile assuming it was the well worn 37" tires with 47,600 miles on them. (put them on the then new '12 rig)
I installed the Northridge bolt kit about 20,000 miles ago.
I'll follow the instructions and report back.
I have a AEV 4.5 DS lift.
Any other issues I should check specific to that system?
#282
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
Just the normal things. Try the things I show in the videos. It the problems aren't immediately obvious, perform the written inspection checklist.
Likely ball joints, drag link end, and maybe loosened up trackbar bolts.
Likely ball joints, drag link end, and maybe loosened up trackbar bolts.
#283
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I have only experienced the uncontrolled oscillation once. (yesterday)
I'll inspect the components later this week in accordance with your write up.
The jeep is parked until I get chance to look into it.
Great resource and time saver!!!!
One more question;
If money/price point is not an issue.
I have read the entire thread and you mention Synergy and Dynatrac ball several times.
Do you have a preference?
If it turns out I need to replace parts.
Would you please recommend replacement components;
ball joints
drag link
trackbar
Thanks again,
A
#284
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the prompt response,
I have only experienced the uncontrolled oscillation once. (yesterday)
I'll inspect the components later this week in accordance with your write up.
The jeep is parked until I get chance to look into it.
Great resource and time saver!!!!
One more question;
If money/price point is not an issue.
I have read the entire thread and you mention Synergy and Dynatrac ball several times.
Do you have a preference?
If it turns out I need to replace parts.
Would you please recommend replacement components;
ball joints
drag link
trackbar
Thanks again,
A
I have only experienced the uncontrolled oscillation once. (yesterday)
I'll inspect the components later this week in accordance with your write up.
The jeep is parked until I get chance to look into it.
Great resource and time saver!!!!
One more question;
If money/price point is not an issue.
I have read the entire thread and you mention Synergy and Dynatrac ball several times.
Do you have a preference?
If it turns out I need to replace parts.
Would you please recommend replacement components;
ball joints
drag link
trackbar
Thanks again,
A
My understanding is that the Synergy, Teraflex, and Crown HD ball joints are pretty much all the same.
I've used Dynatrac on one jeep and Synergy on my other jeeps.
I like the Synergy drag link, and it can be run with a drag link flip design or in the stock position. I haven't looked very hard yet at the newer Teraflex, Metal Cloak, and Rock Krawler designs, but they are interesting.
I've liked the Teraflex HD trackbar, but the JKS is more affordable. I'm sure you would be happy with a Synergy, Metal Cloak, or Rock Krawler adjustable trackbar as well.
Just avoid the cheaper stuff, like Rough Country, Zone, Skyjacker, etc.
#285
JK Enthusiast
Help...again...
Wobble is back, but I have narrowed down the culprit. What I need help with is if the whole tie rod needs to be replaced again or if I can replace the end and the adjustment sleeve?
I bought the cheap Crown knuckle to knuckle tie rod assembly and now the end on the driver's side is moving up and down in the adjustment sleeve. I have tightened the bolt holding the sleeve in place as tight as I can. The sleeve itself seems to not be moving at all.
Do I need to replace the whole assembly or can I just get the adjustment sleeve, and possibly the end?
Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
I bought the cheap Crown knuckle to knuckle tie rod assembly and now the end on the driver's side is moving up and down in the adjustment sleeve. I have tightened the bolt holding the sleeve in place as tight as I can. The sleeve itself seems to not be moving at all.
Do I need to replace the whole assembly or can I just get the adjustment sleeve, and possibly the end?
Any thoughts? Thanks!!!
#286
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
You may be able to get away with replacing just the end and the sleeve.
Was the sleeve damaged from an impact while off roading, or was the clamp just not tight enough to prevent damage to the threads?
Was the sleeve damaged from an impact while off roading, or was the clamp just not tight enough to prevent damage to the threads?
#287
I never had full on DW, just a minor wobble/shimmy around 50mph. Having over 130k on the clock, I went ahead and replaced the BJs with Synergy units, Moog DL, TREs and hubs. After having a virtually new front end, the wobble still existed. The odd thing was that the wobble was the same with the steering damper on and off.
The track bar bolt holes weren't ovaled, OEM bolts weren't digging into the bushing sleeves and everything was still properly torqued (made that a habit with oil changes).
My fix was new TB bushings. I had it previously to inspect it, however, I did a poor job apparently. It looked fine and wouldn't move when I'd jerk and pry on it, but, the OEM bushings were definitely bad. When I had it off a second time, I pried around with a large screwdriver and found one of the bushings almost looked dry-rotted a bit.
I swapped them out (along with the rear while I was at it) with Energy Suspension units and BINGO! She now feels like it did when she first rolled off the lot. No wobble and the steering feels tight and responsive again. I was surprised how a small bushing (that visually didn't look bad) could foul the steering so badly.
The long and short, double check your bushings.
The track bar bolt holes weren't ovaled, OEM bolts weren't digging into the bushing sleeves and everything was still properly torqued (made that a habit with oil changes).
My fix was new TB bushings. I had it previously to inspect it, however, I did a poor job apparently. It looked fine and wouldn't move when I'd jerk and pry on it, but, the OEM bushings were definitely bad. When I had it off a second time, I pried around with a large screwdriver and found one of the bushings almost looked dry-rotted a bit.
I swapped them out (along with the rear while I was at it) with Energy Suspension units and BINGO! She now feels like it did when she first rolled off the lot. No wobble and the steering feels tight and responsive again. I was surprised how a small bushing (that visually didn't look bad) could foul the steering so badly.
The long and short, double check your bushings.
#288
JK Enthusiast
No impact, I really just think it was a) cheap, or b) did not get tightened down enough when they aligned it - I got it close after initial replacement but had to take it in. It has also rusted horribly unlike the OEM one in just a few months - also leaning me toward poorly made
#289
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Death Wobble: Wish I found this thread years ago
Now, it all makes sense.
I've lived for years by squeezing by butt cheeks together every time I hit bridge expansion joints at 40-50 mph. Every trip back to the dealer who installed my lift resulted in a few weeks of relative stability then progressively became worse. I just paid off the Jeep and decided it was time for me to play with it. After a few research misdirections, I have my answer, thanks to Planman.
Notice how bright and shiny my track bar end is! No, not because it's new; because it has been sliding around in the axle-side bracket for 5 years!
My axle bracket is obviously now egged-out and there is evidence of cyclic metal wear caused from adhesion between the track bar end and the bracket, but here is my big ah ha moment. The job of the bolt is to clamp the end in place not pin it in place. That said, if it is not properly torqued, things move and DW occurs. I believe that my incredibly persistent DW issue is a result of the wear (rings and bumps) caused early on by massive DW events. Eventually (meaning FE alignment after FE alignment), the dealer said they torqued everything down again, but once the track bar end and bracket were damaged, there never was enough clamping force to hold it still.
I have a new Synergy track bar, but probably could have fixed the original (Appalachian by blood and attitude). I intend to drill-out and bushing the egged-out bracket hole, use 9/16 grade 8 bolts and I am going to pin and clamp the daylights out of this thing. Overkill? Not if I can finally enjoy my Jeep.
Thanks again for all of the info!
-jeff
I've lived for years by squeezing by butt cheeks together every time I hit bridge expansion joints at 40-50 mph. Every trip back to the dealer who installed my lift resulted in a few weeks of relative stability then progressively became worse. I just paid off the Jeep and decided it was time for me to play with it. After a few research misdirections, I have my answer, thanks to Planman.
Notice how bright and shiny my track bar end is! No, not because it's new; because it has been sliding around in the axle-side bracket for 5 years!
My axle bracket is obviously now egged-out and there is evidence of cyclic metal wear caused from adhesion between the track bar end and the bracket, but here is my big ah ha moment. The job of the bolt is to clamp the end in place not pin it in place. That said, if it is not properly torqued, things move and DW occurs. I believe that my incredibly persistent DW issue is a result of the wear (rings and bumps) caused early on by massive DW events. Eventually (meaning FE alignment after FE alignment), the dealer said they torqued everything down again, but once the track bar end and bracket were damaged, there never was enough clamping force to hold it still.
I have a new Synergy track bar, but probably could have fixed the original (Appalachian by blood and attitude). I intend to drill-out and bushing the egged-out bracket hole, use 9/16 grade 8 bolts and I am going to pin and clamp the daylights out of this thing. Overkill? Not if I can finally enjoy my Jeep.
Thanks again for all of the info!
-jeff
#290
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Please excuse if this was mentioned in the previous 200 or so posts....20 posts are my limit before I get restless...I have a 2015 with just over 3000 miles on it and I'm very rarely off-road and I don't plan on a lift...is this thread relevant to me,meaning is it just a matter of time for every jeep owner before DW sets in or do steps need to be taken now? I'm not mechanically savvy under the jeep,but reasonably so in most other things...the videos were educational but I would have to watch them a 100 times before It would stick...I'm up for replacing a couple bolts here and there if that'll do the trick...long question-short...can your average Joe do just enough to prevent DW