Write- Up Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles
#331
JK Newbie
When there is sufficient torque to those bolts and the trackbar bushings are in good shape, and in a neutral position (the bolts were only torqued after the full weight of the vehicle was on the ground at actual ride height), then there should not have been play sufficient to cause the bracket bolt holes to oval.
The bolts only provide a clamping force, and are not meant to float in the bracket holes. The hardness of the metal of Grade 8 bolts vs. stock bolts are essentially the same. The primary reason to do the Grade 8 bolts is to make sure the bolts and bushings are centered when clamped/torqued.
If the bolts were sufficiently torqued at 125 ft lbs, and periodically re-torqued, they would have not caused that kind of ovalilng unless the trackbar bushings were failing, or the bushings didn't do their job because they were run in a twisted/binding/pre-loaded position instead of a neutral position.
You need a shop to either weld washers over those bolt holes in order to snug things up, or you can run different brackets that accomplish the same thing. I particular, the axle side bracket holes are ovaled enough that some sort of repair is needed. The trackbar bushing bolt sleeve is not likely able to fully sit on the surface of the bracket outside the bracket hole.
I am very curious of the condition of your trackbar bushings.
The bolts only provide a clamping force, and are not meant to float in the bracket holes. The hardness of the metal of Grade 8 bolts vs. stock bolts are essentially the same. The primary reason to do the Grade 8 bolts is to make sure the bolts and bushings are centered when clamped/torqued.
If the bolts were sufficiently torqued at 125 ft lbs, and periodically re-torqued, they would have not caused that kind of ovalilng unless the trackbar bushings were failing, or the bushings didn't do their job because they were run in a twisted/binding/pre-loaded position instead of a neutral position.
You need a shop to either weld washers over those bolt holes in order to snug things up, or you can run different brackets that accomplish the same thing. I particular, the axle side bracket holes are ovaled enough that some sort of repair is needed. The trackbar bushing bolt sleeve is not likely able to fully sit on the surface of the bracket outside the bracket hole.
I am very curious of the condition of your trackbar bushings.
I had sent Teraflex some photos and the video of the mount holes and their response was:
“The Axle side bracket does seem larger than normal but the bolt if torqued to spec should not let the sleeve in the trackbar bushing move. Grade 8 bolts 9/16” in diameter and 3” long can be torqued to 154 FT Lbs. I think the axle bracket will be fine if the bolt is torqued properly”
So you will have to take his advice and make your own educated decision. The track bar gusset would add some strength."
Attached are some photos of the trackbar bushings which to me, the un-educated novice mechanic, appear ok but please let me know what you think. The first two photos of the bushings are on the frame side and the last two are on the axle side, which is the side with the mount holes ovaled out the worst.
Tomorrow, I have scheduled to take the jeep into a reputable local off-road shop to see what they think and recommend. Thanks for any input you can provide.
#332
JK Newbie
Follow-up: The shop attributed the death wobble on bad ball joints which I had them replace. They stated that the bolts were torqued to 123 ft-lbs and also recommended over torquing them and even using the red loctite on the suspension bolts to ensure they stay tight.
#333
Replaced my drag link with synergy, and the shake has noticeably decreased. There is still some movement at 45 mph. I'll keep going through the steps but I believe the ball joints need replaced which from reading this is something I should do anyways...
I really appreciate all of your help
I really appreciate all of your help
#334
JK Newbie
Follow-up: The shop attributed the death wobble on bad ball joints which I had them replace. They stated that the bolts were torqued to 123 ft-lbs and also recommended over torquing them and even using the red loctite on the suspension bolts to ensure they stay tight.
SYNERGY MANUFACTURING :: Jeep JK :: Synergy Jeep JK Front Track Bar Brace
Has anyone else used this brace or have alternative suggestions. For $100 I'm thinking this is the route to go rather than to have to weld.
#335
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
I still notice vibrations when going over bumps and thinking that I should invest into a front track bar brace to correct the ovalled out holes in the frame? I know Synergy has one for $100 SYNERGY MANUFACTURING :: Jeep JK :: Synergy Jeep JK Front Track Bar Brace Has anyone else used this brace or have alternative suggestions. For $100 I'm thinking this is the route to go rather than to have to weld.
Are the vibrations random, or do they happen essentially every single time you drive over bumps?
#337
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
If the suspension bolts are all sufficiently torqued, the ball joints and unit bearings are good, then what you are describing would be from worn or twisted control arm or trackbar bushings.
#338
JK Newbie
I have a 2015 4 door Wrangler with a 4" rancho lift, rs9000 shocks and 1.5" wheel spacers on the stock wheels running 35's. I have chased my death wobble since I lifted the jeep. I have put it on the ground and loosened and re-tightened everything. I ONLY get it when I hit a bump or something like around 30mph. I've read bits and pieces of this thread but still am scratching my head. Should I try the track bar replacement, ball joints and the grade 8 bolts? Without going through everything has there been a new consensus since this thread was started? Thanks!
#339
Forum Tech Advisor
Thread Starter
I have a 2015 4 door Wrangler with a 4" rancho lift, rs9000 shocks and 1.5" wheel spacers on the stock wheels running 35's. I have chased my death wobble since I lifted the jeep. I have put it on the ground and loosened and re-tightened everything. I ONLY get it when I hit a bump or something like around 30mph. I've read bits and pieces of this thread but still am scratching my head. Should I try the track bar replacement, ball joints and the grade 8 bolts? Without going through everything has there been a new consensus since this thread was started? Thanks!
#340
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2011
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If I'm not mistaken, everything I've read here on this, I get if you raise your jeep more than 2", install adjustable lower control arms so you can push the front axle forward to its original location. Is this correct?